[aratj]

finished )

 

[Im1fan2nv]

My 1st set for a coworker sold cheap for practice.. Knowles GK - White and Gray dampers
Finished.

 

[Einencool]

Looks nice, and I have some questions
It looks like you have attached the tubes with a peace of steel pipe to the driver, or something like this.
And although it looks like another steel pipe at the end of the ear canal.

Why did you do this? Does it affect the sound, or was it just for testing?

In my opinion the Wood Faceplates look better, when they have the shape of the InEar. For me, it looks like it does not belong to the headphones, but it‘s only my opinion, the work looks very good. *respekt*

I have always a big Problem with clear shells, so I have to colour them, but now I‘m trying to make some „smoke black“ Shells... even with a GK driver
Greets Chris

 

[SVTong]

Hi all,

I'm getting ready to build a new pair to replace my current GK setup. I'm finding the GK's to be a little too flat for my liking - I'd like to build a pair with a bit more of a V curve with (hopefully) increased sub-bass. Has anyone tried a HODVTEC+TWFK combination? Would I need to build a crossover, or can I just wire them up? And should I go series or parallel? So far, all of the builds I've done have been with pre-built GK's or GV's, so the crossover side of things is still new to me.

I was also thinking about trying a dual CI+TWFK, but I've heard that just makes a mess of the low end.

Thanks!

Edit: Aaand I'm an idiot - the GV IS an HODVTEC+TWFK. So that leaves the question - how do I get more bass out of a GK or a GV setup?

 

[Andrumgt]

So that leaves the quiestion - how do I get more bass out of a GK or a GV setup?

Use the ports on the GV.

 

[SVTong]

Use the ports on the GV.

When you say use the ports - do you mean just pulling the tape off of both of them?

 

[Im1fan2nv]

Looks nice, and I have some questions
It looks like you have attached the tubes with a peace of steel pipe to the driver, or something like this.
And although it looks like another steel pipe at the end of the ear canal.

Why did you do this? Does it affect the sound, or was it just for testing?

In my opinion the Wood Faceplates look better, when they have the shape of the InEar. For me, it looks like it does not belong to the headphones, but it‘s only my opinion, the work looks very good. *respekt*

I have always a big Problem with clear shells, so I have to colour them, but now I‘m trying to make some „smoke black“ Shells... even with a GK driver
Greets Chris

--> These pipes are used, at the BA for better support and it makes the coupling better. At the end was used at first because of various recommendations(smaller at exit port for lo end and larger exit port for Hi.. The second reason was because I saw this somewhere and liked the look so I tried it and it gave me a somewhat better response curve so I've used it on my only 2 completed pair of units.

As far as the faceplate, I'm still new at this and as others have done, they cut a small portion of the back and use that shape for the faceplate. I suppose I could start looking at ways to make all of them with similar faceplate shapes. I just haven't got to that point yet.

I had many many clear scraps that ended up foggy looking and with continued help from this site, I'm able to finally get something that looks fairly clear. There are others on here that produce crystal clear and I just haven't got there yet. I get shells that need patching up once I pull them but the best trick I've learned, is to be sure the shell cures all the way. Longer time in the glycerin and clean with lightly soapy water when removed. If I used alcohol, I get foggy. I could polish the outside, but couldn't figure out a way to polish the inside. My colored shells are still learning curve items as well.

 

[Einencool]

Thank you for your response.
I know what you mean with the foggy inside off the shells.

These are my actual InEars





And these are the shells I‘m actually working on


The blue ones are my GV-driver IEM and the new ones are going to be some GK‘s with a white damper and only one Soundtube.
This time for the Faceplate I will make it like the shells with my initials... I hope it will work to drill it into the material...

 

[NoForMe]

Has anyone tried using the UVICUBE for curing? I just picked one up for $20 and I haven't tried it. Do you think it will work>? https://www.uvicube.com/pages/operating-instructions

 

[MuZo2]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2651604

 

[ForceMajeure]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2651604

Nice!

 

[Im1fan2nv]

Has anyone tried using the UVICUBE for curing? I just picked one up for $20 and I haven't tried it. Do you think it will work>? https://www.uvicube.com/pages/operating-instructions

I tried something similar, it was a sanitizer(got it cheap) but the wavelength of the bulbs were incorrect. I took my nail lamp apart and used the lights inside the sanitizer enclosure. It works great. I plan to make it nice and neat and rewire it with 8 nail lamps inside on 2 shelves when I get the sockets for them. My findings especially with this setup is that curing works best with UV light on sides and bottom, with the rotating clear table. Light on the top is not necessary, it gets enough reflected light to do what is needed to the top.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2651604

Nice, is this your design? Looks very promising.

 

[sanekn]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2651604

Ok this stuff is simply brilliant! Thanks for the link, will do this when time comes

 

[MuZo2]

Nice, is this your design? Looks very promising.

No its not my design, I found it, people using DLP and SLA printers use it for post curing of prints made from UV resin.

 

[NoForMe]

Ok guys I need some help. I’ve been around watching for years a tried and tried again. I have a 36watt nail UV setup and I’m just not getting consistent shells. I have weak spots and my curing time is upwards of 8 minutes. Im using krystaloid (its 2 years old and used probably 10 times). Help please!