[kleymenov]

Single drive on ED 29689. Homemade Etymotic.
Try to make my first headphones. Bought the driver, the cable, shells and connectors. Have a few questions:

1. Need a tube from the driver to the ear or can be clipped to the driver in the shell?
2. Need a dampers?
3. The driver can be connected directly to the cable or need a resistor of 20 ohms?
4. Maybe I should think twice and replace the driver to RAB-32257

Sorry if questions are stupid

RAB-32257 is a full-range driver and I think it's better choise for cheap 1-way earphones. You can use white dampers as an earwax protection...Read the forum, there is a lot of information and manuals, for example from Shilohsjustice

 

[tomekk]

placed on a rotory stand. If I cure at a time for the crus helix doesn’t cure.

Side lamps should be at mould height. It seems to me that rotary platforms are something that doesn't work. If the UV zone is ill-lighted, rotary tool will not help. It seems that the bottom of the mould appears to be underexposed. You have to think about modifying the chamber to make the bottom of the mould more exposed. In your case, only the sides work.

Edit:

the end to be hollow doesn’t cure.

The UV tubes heat up the form, it deforms under the temperature. When air enters the fotoplast, it does not crystallize due to the air. You have to work in such a way as not to heat the mould. Therefore, beer or coffee is useful during breaks

 

[tomekk]

New setup.

 

[Im1fan2nv]

New setup.

Man, those look good. Also, thanks for the help on my lamp setup. I’ll work on it soon I hope, work has been stealing your time..

 

[Im1fan2nv]

For what it’s worth, cure, pour out excess, cure again double original cure time, pull out and place in glycerin bath cure for 8-12 min (I cure with the hollow end up so UV lights gets down into it.), spend a bit more time in the alcohol wash (I swish it around and take a soft toothbrush and scrub it a bit), make sure to get all the glycerin out, DO NOT WIPE OUT WITH Q-TIP, sometimes q-tips are lightly coated with powder so essentially you are smearing this all over the inside, take out of alchol and let it dry (I set my shells on a set of tweezers so air can get under it), I’ll hit the inside sometimes with a blow dryer insuring all the alcohol is dry, then you can wipe if needed with a q-tip.

I did find out that wiping with Q-Tip and Alcohol made the shell fog up. However, I see that even if I use a paper towel or something else, the alcohol fogs it up by itself. Could there be a reason for this? What % alcohol are you using?

Edit:

After further investigation, the alcohol appears to be too strong. I was using 90% and if I dilute it, no fogging. This will save me a lot of buffing time. ---

Update: 11-1-17
I don't knwo what's going on. Cured a new shell and tried diluted alcohol, worked fine, then tried 90% and no fogging. Errr. The only thing that was different was the cure in glycerin was for 8 minutes instead of 3(about the same as the original cure times).

 

[tomekk]

What kind of armature can you find in the Warbler Prelude?

IEM with 1 armature ... does it exist to voice of a full sound spectrum?

Hmm. I found such a thing. I am not convinced, but it can be BK...?

Warbler
https://imgur.com/HuPXPvE.

Westone Um1
http://i.imgur.com/QuR3U44.png

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Hello all, wanted to post another set I finished up. These are 6-driver clear with mother of pearl plates.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Who says perfectly clear shells can’t be accomplished homebrew style!!!!!

 

[tomekk]

@Shilohsjustice

 

[Im1fan2nv]

Where is light located? From the side and bottom or from the side and top? What is your duplicating material? It seems to me that the causes of the problem must be found in uneven light. Correctly balanced light + proper negative form should give you an empty channel practically until the second bend.


With no offense, but the Robert Kaufman video is full of bad habits.

So. This photo shows the area that doesn’t cure if I’m able to obtain a hollow tip.

Who says perfectly clear shells can’t be accomplished homebrew style!!!!!

Once again, looks awesome. I’m still trying to get there..

 

[tomekk]

the area that doesn’t cure if I’m able to obtain a hollow tip.

I forgot about one more important thing: the diameter and permeability of the mould. Light still does not reach evenly into the mould centre.

 

[Squirg]

Im finding that blue cures faster than red. Does anyone have a general breakdown of what colors cure faster/slower?

 

[tomekk]

I am not an expert, but probably it is about:

 

[Im1fan2nv]

I forgot about one more important thing: the diameter and permeability of the mould. Light still does not reach evenly into the mould centre.

Maybe I've found the problem now. It is thicker than it is in diameter. I used wire at the bottom to give a head start on the audio ports. See Photo.
However, the light is above and to the sides. So if it gets enough UV to cure the canal after the 2nd bend, shouldn't it get enough to cure the area shown above?

Im finding that blue cures faster than red. Does anyone have a general breakdown of what colors cure faster/slower?

I noticed the same thing. Looks like the wavelength chart above may explain it.

 

[jbr1971]

Maybe I've found the problem now. It is thicker than it is in diameter. I used wire at the bottom to give a head start on the audio ports. See Photo.
However, the light is above and to the sides. So if it gets enough UV to cure the canal after the 2nd bend, shouldn't it get enough to cure the area shown above?

The way I have found to get the best even cure is to place a mirror (one that is slightly bigger than my uv nail dryer) on the table, then the dryer and mold on the mirror.

Hopefully that will help in your situation.