[Shilohsjustice]

Clear with Pearl Faceplates.

 

[ForceMajeure]

I've been mulling this idea for a while. Given most of us have seen 100's of UV curing setups, negative mold making materials, lots of different UV acrylic, I'm wondering if we could come up with a calibration method that could be used to accurately predict how long it would take to create shells of any thickness regardless of any of these variables in methods or materials? Here's an example of my idea in action:

a) Prepare a mold using the container and mold material I have access to (e.g. ballistics gel; Knox gelatin; whatever else I can get my hands on)
b) Make a negative mold of a pencil or pen 1/2 way through the mold.
c) When the mold hardens, remove the pen/pencil
d) Fill the mold half with acrylic
e) Expose the mold for 10 seconds in your UV station
f) Check the center of the acrylic with a toothpick or pin to see if solid, if not, goto e)

When the acrylic is solid, add up the time it took to complete the 100% curing cycle (e.g. 185 seconds).
Measure the diameter of the pen/pencil (e.g. 7.1mm)

Use the formula to calculate curing rate/mm:

diameter/time = Curing Rate
For Example: 7.1mm/185sec = 0.038mm/s

Now, if want a set of shells that are 2 mm thick, it should be easy enough to calculate the Exposure Time via the formula:

shell thickness / curing rate = Exposure Time
For Example: 2mm / 0.038mm/s = 52 seconds

In theory this sounds reasonable, but in reality, it seems fraught with problems.

Thoughts?

there are a few factors you need to know before attempting some measurments and formula.

1st you need to know the INTENSITY rating of your uv curing solution at a certain distance (the farther it is from the uv source the less intensity). there are ways of measuring it with a UV meter (results are in W/cm^2).
you have to remember that UV bulbs will get less efficient with use

2nd you need to measure what's called the UV DOSE which is the intensity along exposure time. there are solutions for that also. If I recall correctly there are strips you can buy that change colors with exposure and there is a certain device that can calculate the dose once you insert the strip inside.

those 2 parameters are related so if you are able to measure one you could theoretically know the other.
what you need in the end is a UV dose. it doesn't matter if your curing is less efficient all it needs is enough exposure time at the needed wavelength to receive enough uv energy.
Basically meaning that if your curing solution has twice as more intensity than another solution it should give you the same results with half the curing time


now thickness and transparency of your molds are part of the "game" also same goes with resin used. not all resins cures the same.

But first you need a way to measure the UV DOSE or UV intensity and calculate it over time.

Anyway what's the point... we should all get the same uv curing system as squirg and be done with it haha. give us the 15sec curing time

 

[Shilohsjustice]

I get 2mm shells clear shells at 1min 30sec. What do I know though, I’ve never tried calculating I just use the old fashioned paper method.

Clear shells = 1min 30sec
Burnt umber = 2min 20sec
Smoke shells = 2min 50sec

Don’t get me wrong, the science behind it is totally relevant but with practice and technique there comes a feel to it where you just know how long to “cook” it. @ForceMajeure is absolutely right that there are so many factors that go into play and everyone would have to have the same control group for it to work. I have a little black book convieniently labeled the “cook book” which have my times written in for optimal shell thinkness.

 

[Bassiklee]

Do you mix your colored resin per pair? I know Fotoplast only comes in a few colors, including clear.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Do you mix your colored resin per pair? I know Fotoplast only comes in a few colors, including clear.

I mix in small batches enough to make what I’m working on

 

[Arturo Sallas]

2. How you create marble and swirl colored paint effects in the rest of the shell

YouTube “swirl nail art”. Your swirl designs are almost limitless.

I want to try this effect. Do you guys do the swirl effect and then apply a thin layer of resin to seal it? Doesn't this affect the fit of the shell in the ear canal?

 

[aussietanker]

pour glitter resin

So you do an initial pour of clear resin, then give it a short uv light exposure to slightly "set" it - then you mix glitter into a fresh batch of uncured resin, then pour the resin & glitter mix into the mold to form a new shell layer on top of the existing clear layer. Is that how it works?

 

[Bassiklee]

That's what I did, yes. Kind of a two layer shell. All this practice has been done with Solarez, which isn't the right stuff. I'm just getting the process down, at $57/gallon. Much cheaper than Fotoplast. Once I'm pretty confident I've got it down, I'll get Fotoplast and have to adjust times. The process should be nearly identical. That's for the shells I'm pouring anyway. The printed ones with integral bores are made from Detax Luxaprint. I'll only be pouring colors and configs I can't get from Detax.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

This could only mean one thing.......... I’ll definitely be up really really late.

 

[Bassiklee]

Krystalloid, or?? I've read thru lots of this, and read you staying you used Krystalloid, and then also gelatin. Just checking. Either way, they look great. My last Krystalloid pour got a few bubbles. I think I got it too hot, and poured it too hot and too fast. Still practicing.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Krystalloid, or?? I've read thru lots of this, and read you staying you used Krystalloid, and then also gelatin. Just checking. Either way, they look great. My last Krystalloid pour got a few bubbles. I think I got it too hot, and poured it too hot and too fast. Still practicing.

This is krystaloid, you have 3 options for perfect krystaloid.

1. Microwave at 10 second intervals until completely liquid, just before boiling but so it only has tiny tiny tiny bubbles, sit and slowly stir as it cools too 120 degrees Fahrenheit. The bubbles disappear as it cools but you literally have to sit and gently still as it goes through the cooling process.

2. Buy a double boiler which is a pot that fits on another pot with water in it, boil the water it heats the other bowl and slowly still, remove from heat and let cool to 120degrees Fahrenheit.

3. Buy an agitater that heats and stirs the colloid and and dispense.

Key is don’t rush, get a beer near you or coffee and sip while you slowly stir. It’s hard not to rush it as you want to get the making shells so quickly. Best technique I learned was to slow down and not rush the steps.

 

[Bassiklee]

I'll stick with the microwave for now. I like that you can cool it in the fridge and it sets fast. I've poured shells fifteen minutes after pouring the Krystalloid.

 

[aussietanker]

medical grade UV resin.

Can you please tell us more about this. what is it, cost and where you get it from?

 

[aussietanker]

This is krystaloid, you have 3 options for perfect krystaloid.

1. Microwave at 10 second intervals until completely liquid, just before boiling but so it only has tiny tiny tiny bubbles, sit and slowly stir as it cools too 120 degrees Fahrenheit. The bubbles disappear as it cools but you literally have to sit and gently still as it goes through the cooling process.

2. Buy a double boiler which is a pot that fits on another pot with water in it, boil the water it heats the other bowl and slowly still, remove from heat and let cool to 120degrees Fahrenheit.

3. Buy an agitater that heats and stirs the colloid and and dispense.

Key is don’t rush, get a beer near you or coffee and sip while you slowly stir. It’s hard not to rush it as you want to get the making shells so quickly. Best technique I learned was to slow down and not rush the steps.

1. Can you use the same little pots that are used in beauty salons (to melt the wax for hair removal) to melting the krystaloid? ie same pot as i am thinking of getting to melt the wax in

2. what quantity of krystaloid do you melt to do one pair of earpieces

3. do you coat the impressions with DAP 33 glazing compound and then dip it straight into the wax bath and then put them into the krystaloid

4. Would any of the sunlight cured UV resins be ok to practice with - see link below for example. I can't see solarex available here in large quantities. Only small quantities like 1 or 2 ounce tubes.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/25-60-10...hash=item1a333838fb:m:m7ZEBbZ6-IC9ACyoPdVC-0Q

 

[teddyblood]

UV nail - good times

Hi Tomekk. How did you do that art on the facepate? It's beautiful.

YouTube “swirl nail art”. Your swirl designs are almost limitless.

Hi Furco. So you made a clear shell and then cover it with the art layer later or you made the art with that method but using color resin and apply to the mold?