Home-Made IEMs
Apr 13, 2016 at 2:03 PM Post #4,591 of 16,074
Oh and the graphs:
 
3 driver:

 
 
7 driver...couldn't get rid of the treble peaks. I think I might stick a filter in.
 

 
Apr 14, 2016 at 1:25 AM Post #4,592 of 16,074
I want that universal shell please give to meh
triportsad.gif

 
Apr 14, 2016 at 9:40 PM Post #4,593 of 16,074
I got these silicon molds off taobao which you can reuse for curing the universals. Though I tried several shops before finally deciding on one as the fits for each seller are different...
 
Apr 16, 2016 at 6:13 AM Post #4,596 of 16,074
For the 3 driver I used 2xED29689 and a CI26890 (Mouser ran out of 22955 when I bought the drivers). The purplish things are small purple crystals i poured into the shell and then filled it up with acrylic. In fact both are filled in the center. This one used a 2.5mm diameter stainless steel tube with a 1mm diameter silicon tube for the bass driver. Sound is very laid back, but clear. Sound stage is large since I based it off the UERM. 
 
7 Drivers I used a CI26890, HODTEC31268, GR31587 and SWFK31736. The two high drivers' tubes merge into a 2.5mm diameter stainless steel tube. The DTEC mids driver uses a regular 2mm pvc tube, and the bass driver uses a 50mm long by 0.5mm diameter silicon tube. This one ended up really really clear. Vocals were intimate and clear. Highs were very sparkly, which I think needs to be tamed with a filter as this one is filterless. The bass hits very deep, but doesn't hit very hard (lack of mid bass?). Despite the curve looking like it has a lot of bass, you don't really feel it unless on quiet tracks, where you can really feel the sub bass. Not really sure why this happens...
 
Overall, I do like the two I made, but I have already came up with plans to improve the implementations. 
 
It's funny how I used similar drivers for my 7 driver v1, and the graphs can look so so so different.
 
Apr 17, 2016 at 7:15 AM Post #4,597 of 16,074
  For the 3 driver I used 2xED29689 and a CI26890 (Mouser ran out of 22955 when I bought the drivers). The purplish things are small purple crystals i poured into the shell and then filled it up with acrylic. In fact both are filled in the center. This one used a 2.5mm diameter stainless steel tube with a 1mm diameter silicon tube for the bass driver. Sound is very laid back, but clear. Sound stage is large since I based it off the UERM. 
 
7 Drivers I used a CI26890, HODTEC31268, GR31587 and SWFK31736. The two high drivers' tubes merge into a 2.5mm diameter stainless steel tube. The DTEC mids driver uses a regular 2mm pvc tube, and the bass driver uses a 50mm long by 0.5mm diameter silicon tube. This one ended up really really clear. Vocals were intimate and clear. Highs were very sparkly, which I think needs to be tamed with a filter as this one is filterless. The bass hits very deep, but doesn't hit very hard (lack of mid bass?). Despite the curve looking like it has a lot of bass, you don't really feel it unless on quiet tracks, where you can really feel the sub bass. Not really sure why this happens...
 
Overall, I do like the two I made, but I have already came up with plans to improve the implementations. 
 
It's funny how I used similar drivers for my 7 driver v1, and the graphs can look so so so different.

 
 
Awesome info.
 
I had a feeling looking at the graph of the 3 drivers one that it was based on the UERM. Have you try using a sonion 2389 half coiled instead of the knowles ED drivers?
I have both ED29689 and Sonion 2389 for the mid high, I am curious.
 
For the 7 drivers lacking bass punch maybe the bass tube is too long and thin not allowing enough pressured air to reach your eardrum...
 
What's the difference between  the CI26890 and the CI22955? They look the same to me on the knowles sheets.
 
 
Apr 17, 2016 at 10:29 PM Post #4,598 of 16,074
Hello I was wondering if the HODVTEC-30168 + TWFK-30017 was still considered a good combination? And if so does anyone have recommendations for where to start with the crossover design? As in some ballpark estimates for resistors/caps that would make sense? I was also looking at hodvtec-31618+dwfk-31785+swfk-31736 and I was wondering if that is a much better combination or would the increased complexity of the crossover make tuning result in it being difficult to achieve a good result?
 
Apr 18, 2016 at 11:30 AM Post #4,599 of 16,074
I haven't went to get the 2389. I should probably get it next time but I have to get it separately from different sellers which is a hassle for me. I'll try it next time when I some more spare time. Though aren't the two drivers nearly identical?
 
I think maybe the HODTEC I used had too high impedance which made the bass weak...hmm..
 
I used the 26890 as a substitute as I compared them on the specs sheet and they looked identical. I never tested them side by side so I didn't know if there were any actual differences. The 26980 doesn't have a center tap.
 
Apr 18, 2016 at 3:27 PM Post #4,603 of 16,074
 
  More than JH13pro FP and no guarantee it sound like one.

It wouldn't cost more to immitate it and get close, but for the most part it's probably better to just buy one outright.

 
 
 
Technically, I agree, but I will ask you this:
 
Would you give your custom to a company that (as far as I can tell) doesn't appear to give a hoot about its customers or its competitors?
 
 
Food for thought...
 
Apr 18, 2016 at 3:30 PM Post #4,604 of 16,074
   
 
 
Technically, I agree, but I will ask you this:
 
Would you give your custom to a company that (as far as I can tell) doesn't appear to give a hoot about its customers or its competitors?
 
 
Food for thought...

I would probably buy a UERR to be honest.
 
Apr 18, 2016 at 4:02 PM Post #4,605 of 16,074
Really? So I know the mold itself can be pretty cheap as can the connectors and cable so is it the drivers that are the most expensive part? I didn't think armature drivers were THAT expensive. 
 
How much would it cost to make something comparable?
 

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