Home-Made IEMs
Feb 2, 2016 at 8:25 AM Post #4,366 of 15,989
You mean...something like JH;s Freqphase?
 
Feb 2, 2016 at 10:24 AM Post #4,367 of 15,989
  My question is, how are people doing it? Surely there will be a delay with a 3 way crossover.
 
I work at Cyrus Audio, and we mainly design and build amplifiers. I have no knowledge of IEMs and customs. I tried the ACS and was blown away by their sound.

In DIY the dealy is almost negligible, (depends on drivers etc). but if you consider length of waves you'll see that up to 10kHz most of the frequencies shouldn't be a problem to handle easily.
If the length of bass frequencies is in meters you don't have to worry much about dealy since the wave will travel its distance before your ear/brain will notice delay.
I would have to show you some graphs of different set up of the same drivers. For DIY purposes if you use 1st order x-o inverse electrical phase of a speaker when needed and add correct damping on each driver then you really don't have to worry whether your woofer is 20 or 25mm away from the opening of a shell and tweeter is only 10mm or 16mm. Of course the length of the tubing has an effect on the sound itself (moves peaks) but that's a different story.
For prefessional designs you purchase quality measuring equipement, calculate your design and experiment with different set up looking for the best configuation. You can manage delay times and take advantege of it creating something like single electrical phase design or delay woofer to provide faster or slower response f.e. very low low pass filter will make noticable difference to your ear/brain that would restult in different bass perception.
 
Feb 3, 2016 at 11:01 PM Post #4,372 of 15,989
  Talking about phases and how to rectify them
 
Can you tell me If I understand correctly, this is how it works:
 
Lets say we only have 2 different drivers, 1 bass  and 1 mid/highs the crossoverpoint is at 1500hz, 1st order High Pass crossover shifts the phase of the mid/highs driver by 45 deg.
 
Now the mid/high drivers leads by 0.0833ms
 
Phase angle (deg) φ = time delay Δ t × frequency f × 360
 
 time delay Δ t = 45/(1500*360)
                         =0.0833 ms   
which means that sound at 1500hz arrive at the eardrum faster buy 0.0000833 sec. So in order to get both drivers in sync I need to make the mid/highs driver sound travelling a longer distance.
 
Assuming the speed of sound at 20 deg Celsius is 343.2 m/s  (though at body temperature it's closer to 353 m/s) the difference in tubing length should be 343.2*0.0000833= 2.85 cm (1.125 inches).
 
So the tube length for the mid/highs driver should be 2.85 cm longer than the tube for the bass driver.
 

This is a post I made about rectifying phases about 5 months ago I didn't know that's how this was done.
Also as piotrus-g said don't forget that tube length moves the high frequency peaks so it should be taken into consideration
Does anyone know what software he uses on it's MAC for checking the phase alignment? Is it Fuzzmeasure? Are there any Windows alternatives?

Anyway I still didn't made a complete CIEM of my own yet.
 
I have received those drivers so far
CI 22995 X4
TWFK 30017 X4
ED 29689 X2
WBFK 30095 X2
DTEC 30625 X2
Sonion 2389 X2
Sonion 33aj007i/9 x2
 
I have no clue where are the minus terminals on the Sonion, the wiring is not clear from their website maybe someone know?
Right now I'​
m experimenting with the drivers but it is very time consuming.​
If someone can suggest a design based on those drivers he is more than welcome.​
 

 
Feb 4, 2016 at 5:16 AM Post #4,373 of 15,989
I would start check the BA chart thread and try to use a typical layout as other headphones. Start with a single. Then a dual. I would guess we need measuring equipment so we know how the peaks move while cutting tubes. I just read Tyll s articles about understanding frequency response. I think that is important. But so try without measuring equipment first and see how far you can get with a single BA. I will be going to China in a few weeks, I will see if I can get a hold of measuring equipment. I doubt since I will travel to a boring city shenyang
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 3:02 PM Post #4,377 of 15,989

 
I finally got the drivers wired and measured to figure out which filter combinations I wanted to test, and loaded everything into the shells last night to find out if all the work was worth it.
 
I am using the TWFK/DTEC combo from my W4R's, and the dynamic driver from my Geek Verb. The DD is glued into a small hard silicone ear tip with the nozzle tube cut out to make a nice sealed enclosure (acoustic tubing fits into the outlet perfectly). I used blue tack as a temporary seal for the drivers and tubes to make it easier to swap pieces in and out during testing.
 
The winning combination ended up being:
 
TWFK - no filter
DTEC - red filter
DD - orange filter
 
The result sounds incredible. The low end from the DD is an amazing complement to the TWFK/DTEC. The whole package probably gets the result to 90-95% of what I consider optimal, which I am very happy with considering this is my first build.
 
Now to get everything pulled apart, the blue tack cleaned off, shell imperfections fixed, final seal of the drivers, faceplate fabricated, and final build completed.
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 8:26 PM Post #4,378 of 15,989
 
 
I finally got the drivers wired and measured to figure out which filter combinations I wanted to test, and loaded everything into the shells last night to find out if all the work was worth it.
 
I am using the TWFK/DTEC combo from my W4R's, and the dynamic driver from my Geek Verb. The DD is glued into a small hard silicone ear tip with the nozzle tube cut out to make a nice sealed enclosure (acoustic tubing fits into the outlet perfectly). I used blue tack as a temporary seal for the drivers and tubes to make it easier to swap pieces in and out during testing.
 
The winning combination ended up being:
 
TWFK - no filter
DTEC - red filter
DD - orange filter
 
The result sounds incredible. The low end from the DD is an amazing complement to the TWFK/DTEC. The whole package probably gets the result to 90-95% of what I consider optimal, which I am very happy with considering this is my first build.
 
Now to get everything pulled apart, the blue tack cleaned off, shell imperfections fixed, final seal of the drivers, faceplate fabricated, and final build completed.

Nice! 
Using an eartip to clue in the DD is clever.
Can you tell what are the resistor and capacitor value for the DTEC/TWFK combo and how is the crossover wired? 
From the picture it looks like the DTEC/TWFK combo is attached to one tube using the red filter am I right?
 
Feb 4, 2016 at 8:37 PM Post #4,379 of 15,989
  Nice! 
Using an eartip to clue in the DD is clever.
Can you tell what are the resistor and capacitor value for the DTEC/TWFK combo and how is the crossover wired? 
From the picture it looks like the DTEC/TWFK combo is attached to one tube using the red filter am I right?

 
Thanks. I used up my one good idea for the month on that one.
 
I honestly have no idea about the crossover, etc on the TWFK/DTEC. I used the stock Westone driver combo from the W4R, I did not change anything.
 
Yes, the TWFK/DTEC are attached to one tube (stretched the end over both nozzles). The filter in the picture was the first test I did, and it was subsequently removed from the tube. The red filter is now directly over the DTEC nozzle so the TWFK output is not affected.
 
Feb 6, 2016 at 9:09 AM Post #4,380 of 15,989
Subscribed, good luck 
wink.gif

 

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