Home-Made IEMs
Nov 21, 2015 at 1:23 PM Post #4,024 of 16,072
What did you use as investment material to make the negatives? I just got a bottle of Fotoplast as well.


I used Urethane RTV (TAP Plastics here in the US) for the first negative, then Knox Gelatin for the 2nd negative.
The intermediary positive (green) was made with TAP Clear-Lite Resin and then polished and built up using nail polish.

Very nice, pink one came clean and uniform.


Thank you! Got into this to make a quick (I hear pro labs take 2-3 weeks after receiving impressions) and cheap (umm yea...) IEM's to use on my motorcycle for communications. We'll see how that goes.


EDIT:
Here is my UV chamber, totally got the idea from these 2 posts (1, 2), Thanks guys!

Chamber Pic 1
Chamber Pic 2
 
Nov 21, 2015 at 3:32 PM Post #4,025 of 16,072
Hi,
What a beautiful chamber artwork
biggrin.gif

You've made a very clean work and your chamber is better than mine (a lot easier to build
rolleyes.gif
)
But IMHO you should reduce the CYMBA OF CONCHA size for a easier insertion.
 
Nov 22, 2015 at 12:30 AM Post #4,026 of 16,072
But IMHO you should reduce the CYMBA OF CONCHA size for a easier insertion.


Thank you for the suggestion, I am so new to this every single piece of information is sure to help so keep them coming! Especially if you see me doing something wrong. (I did notice I had to pull my ear in different directions just to get the positive master in)

I made a few more positives today out of hard acrylic. I wanted 1 with a longer canal impression to try and shape that a little more properly. Plus I poured in some more short ones for practice. (I used a transparent dye one these this time). Feel free to edit any of the pictures and draw a line for me where you think the CYMBA OF CONCHA part should stop.

Also can anyone suggest the size (gauge) of Litz wire to use to wire up the drivers?

Here are the pictures from todays efforts:
Pic 1
Pic 2
(sorry I don't have enough forum privileges to post pics directly, I hope to edit my posts when I get those :D )
 
Nov 22, 2015 at 3:39 AM Post #4,027 of 16,072
Thank you for the suggestion, I am so new to this every single piece of information is sure to help so keep them coming! Especially if you see me doing something wrong. (I did notice I had to pull my ear in different directions just to get the positive master in)

I made a few more positives today out of hard acrylic. I wanted 1 with a longer canal impression to try and shape that a little more properly. Plus I poured in some more short ones for practice. (I used a transparent dye one these this time). Feel free to edit any of the pictures and draw a line for me where you think the CYMBA OF CONCHA part should stop.

Also can anyone suggest the size (gauge) of Litz wire to use to wire up the drivers?

Here are the pictures from todays efforts:
Pic 1
Pic 2
(sorry I don't have enough forum privileges to post pics directly, I hope to edit my posts when I get those
biggrin.gif
)


Hum... it is not an exact science, you probably have to perform some tests
wink.gif

 

 
If you are an hardcore audiophile you can use the central wire (silver/teflon) of a RG316 cable
If you aren't you can find standard litz wire on cheap chinese earbuds cables
 
Nov 23, 2015 at 7:23 PM Post #4,031 of 16,072
After a few weeks of research (and complete re-reading of this whole thread) I have finally started to order what I need to tackle this project (UV nail dryer, rotary tool, ballistics gel).
 
I have decided to make my own shells and re-shell my Westone W4R's as my first project. The current plan is to re-tune them a bit, and add a dynamic driver to the setup to round out the low end more.
 
The goal is to figure out a build that will come as close to my modded T50RP's as possible. We'll see how that goes.
 
Thank you to everyone that has contributed to this thread over the years, the amount of information amassed is both overwhelming and inspiring.
 
Jody
 
Nov 24, 2015 at 3:07 AM Post #4,032 of 16,072
  I have decided to make my own shells and re-shell my Westone W4R's as my first project. The current plan is to re-tune them a bit, and add a dynamic driver to the setup to round out the low end more.
 
Jody

 
Hi,
 
Well designed BA CIEM are terrific on the lows when designed with a good passive filter... but i've never seen it on any commercial headphones because you must externalize the circuitry...
 
Nov 24, 2015 at 4:33 AM Post #4,033 of 16,072
Hey all
 
I'm not really new here but want to start creating CIEM :)
 
I've almost read this whole thread and i will probably read it many times. 
 
My idea is to start mastering creating shells. I will not continue with the electronics until i master creating shells.
 
I live in Sweden so i think my main issue will be getting goods. I know it's close to Germany so lets hope that will be easy.
 
Since i make (made) music, i have a lot of good recording gear and microphones. I have the Behringer ECM8000 measuring microphone for the days when i tried to setup good acoustics at home. That's not easy!
 
I use REW http://www.roomeqwizard.com/ for measurements which is also available for MAC for those who have been asking for MAC Software. It's free, really great and uses Sine Sweeps and noise.
It's even available for linux!
 
A tip to my North American friends! It seems you can buy industry hydrocolloid and silicone for the negatives from http://www.nobilium.com/duplicating-materials.html
Just register to view price. It's not DIY quantities but still wanted to alert people in this thread :)
 
Cheers!
 
Nov 24, 2015 at 7:31 AM Post #4,034 of 16,072
   
Hi,
 
Well designed BA CIEM are terrific on the lows when designed with a good passive filter... but i've never seen it on any commercial headphones because you must externalize the circuitry...

 
I will give it a try just with the BA's out of curiosity to see what kind of sound adjustments I can get with adding acoustic tubing and dampers, before adding the DD's for comparison.
 
Does anyone know the exact drivers the Westone W4R uses? I am having trouble finding it. As well as the crossover points they use?
 
Thanks,
 
Jody
 
Nov 24, 2015 at 7:48 AM Post #4,035 of 16,072
   
I will give it a try just with the BA's out of curiosity to see what kind of sound adjustments I can get with adding acoustic tubing and dampers, before adding the DD's for comparison.
 
 
Thanks,
 
Jody

 
Tubing and dampers will never get rid of the medium/treble produced by the big BA.
On all commercial designs the medium produced by the bass driver is bleeding on the whole spectrum.
In that case increase the bass level always destroy the balance.
Multi BA literally sounds like a multi driver loudspeaker without crossovers... make them sounding right is a mystery to me.
 

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