Home-Made IEMs
Nov 24, 2015 at 8:49 AM Post #4,036 of 15,910
   
I will give it a try just with the BA's out of curiosity to see what kind of sound adjustments I can get with adding acoustic tubing and dampers, before adding the DD's for comparison.
 
Does anyone know the exact drivers the Westone W4R uses? I am having trouble finding it. As well as the crossover points they use?
 
Thanks,
 
Jody


Westone uses proprietary drivers you won't be able to do the exact design so even knowing crossover points you want be able to achieve the same sound with other drivers.
 
Nov 24, 2015 at 2:43 PM Post #4,037 of 15,910
 
Westone uses proprietary drivers you won't be able to do the exact design so even knowing crossover points you want be able to achieve the same sound with other drivers.

 
I have a pair of W4R's that I am going to re-shell. I am trying to figure what drivers they are so I can get a better idea of their properties, along with crossover points, so I can plan the transition better.
 
Jody
 
Nov 24, 2015 at 4:03 PM Post #4,038 of 15,910
   
I have a pair of W4R's that I am going to re-shell. I am trying to figure what drivers they are so I can get a better idea of their properties, along with crossover points, so I can plan the transition better.
 
Jody

Those are variations of DTEC and TWFK, but as per above it can mean almost anything in propriety drivers.
 
Nov 24, 2015 at 4:24 PM Post #4,039 of 15,910
Anyone else feel like those dampers bounce a hundred miles when you drop them? 
etysmile.gif

 
Nov 24, 2015 at 6:08 PM Post #4,040 of 15,910
  Those are variations of DTEC and TWFK, but as per above it can mean almost anything in propriety drivers.

 
Thank you. That gives me a place to start from at least. It will be interesting to hear where the result ends up.
 
Jody
 
Nov 26, 2015 at 1:40 AM Post #4,041 of 15,910
While I am making another set of masters (smaller cymbal of concha) I decided to practice with the fotoplast I received.
I one sentence - Its eons better then UV nail stuff. I am never going back.

I think I have to adjust the timing as the shell thickness came out to:
2~2.5mm in 40 second exposure
1.5~2mm in 20 second exposure

Dremeling through the closed up canal was a bit sketchy... but I got it done (for practice as well)

The little brochure I got with the fotoplast states 20 seconds for 0.7mm wall thickness.
Hmmmm I think I might have overdone it with the 'radiation chamber' a little bit.... Oh well more practice.
I am considering ordering the Blue fotoplast for left right differentiation, unless someone can suggest a good method for coloring (transparent & opaque) the clear fotoplast.

Maybe after all this effort I'll even attempt at a multi driver setup.

Anyhow here are the pictures from today:
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4
 
Nov 26, 2015 at 2:38 AM Post #4,042 of 15,910
While I am making another set of masters (smaller cymbal of concha) I decided to practice with the fotoplast I received.
I one sentence - Its eons better then UV nail stuff. I am never going back.

I think I have to adjust the timing as the shell thickness came out to:
2~2.5mm in 40 second exposure
1.5~2mm in 20 second exposure

Dremeling through the closed up canal was a bit sketchy... but I got it done (for practice as well)

The little brochure I got with the fotoplast states 20 seconds for 0.7mm wall thickness.
Hmmmm I think I might have overdone it with the 'radiation chamber' a little bit.... Oh well more practice.
I am considering ordering the Blue fotoplast for left right differentiation, unless someone can suggest a good method for coloring (transparent & opaque) the clear fotoplast.

Maybe after all this effort I'll even attempt at a multi driver setup.

Anyhow here are the pictures from today:
Pic 1
Pic 2
Pic 3
Pic 4
may i know what do you use to get those colors? I was thinking if powder pigments were possible to use for the shells?
 
Nov 26, 2015 at 2:53 AM Post #4,043 of 15,910
may i know what do you use to get those colors? I was thinking if powder pigments were possible to use for the shells?


Not counting the very top pink silicone impressions:
The top 2 (green & pink) are my positives so I used nail polish (with a clear over the top) to build up thickness and give it some color so it easy to differentiate.
The middle 2 are the UV nail polish (outer layer clear) raspberry wine. I didn't have enough to fill the mold @ $12 it kinda pricy so they came out really thin (I rolled it around the mold then zapped it with UV)
The bottom 2 are RED Fotoplast S/IO UV Shell Material. Those came out the best IMO. (I need to zap them a little bit less to make them thinner)

I am also currently contemplating with putting the acoustic tube into the the wet FotoPlast (plugging the ends first) in order to avoid having to Dremel the whole canal if my shells are too thick again.

I would love to know if someone has tried pigments of any kind with Fotoplast and if it inhibits the cure. (the youtube video's linked a few posts back suggest you could even get a transparent)
 
Nov 27, 2015 at 5:01 AM Post #4,044 of 15,910


tried making shells today :) my impressions are super small compared to my friend's one though.... is my impression alright though?
Couldnt wax the impressions.... the wax came out too thick :frowning2: so i just went forward to make the shells without waxing them...

On a side note, the powdered pigment thingy came out really chunky :/ and i forgot to take a photo of it...
 
Nov 27, 2015 at 7:04 PM Post #4,045 of 15,910
Not counting the very top pink silicone impressions:
The top 2 (green & pink) are my positives so I used nail polish (with a clear over the top) to build up thickness and give it some color so it easy to differentiate.
The middle 2 are the UV nail polish (outer layer clear) raspberry wine. I didn't have enough to fill the mold @ $12 it kinda pricy so they came out really thin (I rolled it around the mold then zapped it with UV)
The bottom 2 are RED Fotoplast S/IO UV Shell Material. Those came out the best IMO. (I need to zap them a little bit less to make them thinner)

I am also currently contemplating with putting the acoustic tube into the the wet FotoPlast (plugging the ends first) in order to avoid having to Dremel the whole canal if my shells are too thick again.

I would love to know if someone has tried pigments of any kind with Fotoplast and if it inhibits the cure. (the youtube video's linked a few posts back suggest you could even get a transparent)

That's what I have ordered for transparent colors http://world.taobao.com/item/15643835673.htm?fromSite=main&spm=a312a.7700824.w4004-12644885652.4.FNC5ew 
Here you have some for solid colors http://world.taobao.com/item/40677505752.htm?fromSite=main&spm=a1z0k.7386009.1997989141.8.bK1wvq&_u=s2ekcdiaa479
 
You can use a very few drops of the solid color paint to get a transparent colored effect. It is recommended to use a few drops, mix it with uv resin and check the results and not use a big quantity.
Same goes for the transparent colors.
 
I think you can use regular acrylic paint/oil paint to get the same effect a few drops for transparent colored.
But I don't know which is more recommended maybe someone knows.
Regarding curing time, the darker the color the longer it will take. It will be trial and error for every color and different levels of transparency ...
 
Nov 28, 2015 at 12:29 AM Post #4,046 of 15,910
I'll have to get some clear Fotoplast (I think red is a bit dark to try coloring it more)

Today was great, I managed to complete a set of IEM's. I made new shells from new masters (deeper canal part) & you can see the Masters in the gelatin in the first few pictures then I ripped the gelatin apart after UV curing. The last few pictures show how I made a cap - I rolled out a long bead of wax (Mini Babybel cheese wrapping wax :rolleyes:) then places the IEM shell down on foil and pressed the wax bead all the way around the shell. Lifted up the shell and filled the form with Fotoplast and then zapped it. The cap came off the foil and perfectly and then you can just pull the wax off. Soon much easier then trying to cut a sliver off the shell IMO.


Pic 1

Pic 2














Final Product first try (I am no pro but the $12 RAB driver sounds as good as any sub $100 earbud I have tried - is that just me?)



 
Nov 29, 2015 at 1:20 AM Post #4,047 of 15,910
It took a couple of tries, but it looks like the impressions were a success.
 
I need to do the trimming and smoothing after they cure overnight, then on to figuring out the ballistics gel for moulds.
 
If anyone sees something amiss, I would appreciate the heads up/education.
 
Thanks,
 
Jody
 

 

 

 

 
Nov 29, 2015 at 1:34 PM Post #4,048 of 15,910
I stopped by Home Depot this morning and picked up a bunch of formica samples that I might use as faceplates thanks to the great suggestion posted here previously.
 
I also stopped by a hobby store and came across their dart/dart accessory case. I did not realize how big some dart flights are, and the large assortment of designs that are available (especially online). I have not done any measuring yet, but there is a chance some of the larger flights could be shaped down and used as faceplates with custom designs already printed.
 
Has anyone tried this previously? I could not find any mention of it in the thread.
 
Jody
 
Nov 29, 2015 at 11:56 PM Post #4,050 of 15,910
Is anyone interested in group ordering connectors and/or cables from Plastics1?
 
Apparently their MOQ is 10; I emailed one of their reps and they didn't get back to me but I think that's because I let on that I wasn't a company and wasn't going to be ordering a terribly large number of supplies. 
 
I would be happy to go in for 4 or 5 cables and sets of connectors if we got the overall price down low enough.
 

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