Home-Made IEMs
Oct 8, 2015 at 12:08 PM Post #3,916 of 16,107
  May be you added too much wax and now they dont go to proper depth. Or gelatin shrinks uneven.


It is something I have considered. I have more than enough uv gel left, that I figured my next step, in a week when I have some time to dedicate to the process, that I would do everything for one ear, make a face plate, and then just paint on additional material until I have something that 'feels' like the right fit. Then at least I have a master that I can fiddle around with. Though my circuit designs are no wear close to any of you, I do have that process down pretty well, I just need to get the shell process down.
 
Oct 8, 2015 at 8:44 PM Post #3,917 of 16,107
It is something I have considered. I have more than enough uv gel left, that I figured my next step, in a week when I have some time to dedicate to the process, that I would do everything for one ear, make a face plate, and then just paint on additional material until I have something that 'feels' like the right fit. Then at least I have a master that I can fiddle around with. Though my circuit designs are no wear close to any of you, I do have that process down pretty well, I just need to get the shell process down.


It sounds like your shell process is pretty solid.

1). How old are your ear molds from the audiologist?
2) Would you consider using your UM's as the positive mold instead of the ones from the audiologist?
 
Oct 9, 2015 at 12:53 AM Post #3,919 of 16,107
  Yes !
 
Big 13mm dynamic driver with ED29689.

 
Hi all, I am new to this thread as I just stumbled on it a few days ago.
 
Having heard some hybrid IEMs at RMAF I really like the overall sound, but could not find a pair with a sound signature that fit exactly for my taste.
 
After having great success with modding some T50rp over-ear planar headphones, I am looking to try my hand at putting some CIEMs together for a fun new project.
 
Silverprout, I was wondering where you got your dynamic drivers from. I do not think I will go as big as 13mm, probably 8-10mm.
 
Any information you can provide would be greatly appreciated.
 
Thanks,
 
Jody
 
Oct 9, 2015 at 1:27 AM Post #3,920 of 16,107
Welcome to this thread :)
You can find drivers on taobao.com (chinese ebay) this guy have dynamic drivers https://jodger.world.taobao.com/search.htm?spm=a312a.7700824.0.0.L32EZ6&search=y 
 
Also on aliexpress this store have a ton of choice.
inear drivers http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/In-ear-speaker-unit/323026_258234415.html
earbud drivers http://www.aliexpress.com/store/group/Earbud-speaker-unit/323026_258236396.html
 
Oct 9, 2015 at 1:39 AM Post #3,921 of 16,107
It sounds like your shell process is pretty solid.

1). How old are your ear molds from the audiologist?
2) Would you consider using your UM's as the positive mold instead of the ones from the audiologist?

More than 6 months now. I've just been waiting on a good time to get to a local audiologist (moved recently, one town over).
 
Funny story. So sometime just outside of warranty I managed to take a pretty good fall, in-ears in, and popped out. Both sides looked in good condition. Upon further inspection, the left had some cracks and a few chips. Now an intelligent man would have just sealed it up. I wanted to repair the chips. I fished some of the broken material, and either when the chips happened, or when I was fishing them out, I disconnected a line going to one of the low drivers, so then I slowly cracked the body from the deeper ear to see if I could solder the line... Not as funny as I thought, but the point is that I would have one good positive to start with on the right side at least.
 
Oct 9, 2015 at 2:37 AM Post #3,922 of 16,107
  More than 6 months now. I've just been waiting on a good time to get to a local audiologist (moved recently, one town over).
 
Funny story. So sometime just outside of warranty I managed to take a pretty good fall, in-ears in, and popped out. Both sides looked in good condition. Upon further inspection, the left had some cracks and a few chips. Now an intelligent man would have just sealed it up. I wanted to repair the chips. I fished some of the broken material, and either when the chips happened, or when I was fishing them out, I disconnected a line going to one of the low drivers, so then I slowly cracked the body from the deeper ear to see if I could solder the line... Not as funny as I thought, but the point is that I would have one good positive to start with on the right side at least.


Most likely the impressions are deformed.
 
Oct 9, 2015 at 12:51 PM Post #3,924 of 16,107
I believe I read somewhere that for the sound to be "coherent" it should arrive at the eardrum within 10 microseconds... in this youtube vid https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zZRy-UArXM you can hear that even in at 0.5 millisecond the click-sound sounds like it's echoing. For example when things are out of phase, kick drum doesn't sound tight and full it's kind of lacking body and vocals aren't exactly in  the "center " of the soundstage .

 
Agreed!  That youtube video was very helpful for me to illustrate the effects of a delay in signals.  As you have said, even at 0.5ms, the delay was obvious.   So can we come up with a rule-of-thumb that says something such as:  "Configurations that result in a delay (lag or lead) of 10µs (microseconds) or larger will cause coherence problems and should be remediated in multi-driver configurations."  How exactly to deal with the delays remains to be seen.  So if we go back to your example where there's an 83.3µs (0.0833ms) delay caused by a 1st order HP crossover in a multi-driver configuration, that's a problem based on our new rule-of-thumb.   So if 10µs is our theoretical lower limit, I wonder how the frequency response would look  between your example configuration and one where the phase was corrected .   Interesting.....interesting.....interesting.......  I'll have to think about how to test this.  
 
 
Sound that is not pure sinusoidal like instruments or voices or even electronic beats have their own harmonics, meaning not only do they exhibit sound in a fundamental frequency   but the same sound at the same time also have a second harmonic at a frequency 2 f , a third harmonic at frequency of 3 f , and so on... that's what's make instruments sounds like instruments and not  a simple sinusoidal tone.  Here is a great explanation about it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzeZbJceKZE
 
Phase shifts may causes some part of the frequencies to add or subtract one another to even completely cancelling out if there is a 180deg phase shift. 
That's why phase shift can make even low sounding instruments like bass guitar for example not as good sounding as without phase shift because bass guitar emits a sound frequency (fundamental) not only in a low region frequency but also at higher frequencies (harmonics). 


 
I love your description about harmonics.  "...that's what makes instruments sound like instruments and not a sample sinusoidal tone."   and that video was super cool because it shows how much is actually going on across the frequency spectrum when a sound is made.  It helps paint the picture in my head about how phase shifts that are happening in a driver can add/subtract/cancel out frequencies and make the overall sound good/bad/ugly. 
 
The problem here from what I understand so far about filters is that your description about what a filter does to a signal ( "more twists/turns/distance") is not accurate.
A capacitor is a frequency reactive component . Meaning it reacts differently at different frequencies in an AC circuit.
 
A High/Low pass filter is kind of a voltage divider circuit on a load.
 
In a 1st order LOW PASS filter the capacitor is in parallel to the load and the phase will LAG by 45 deg. "T
his is due to the time taken to charge the plates of the capacitor as the input voltage changes, resulting in the output voltage (the voltage across the capacitor) “lagging” behind that of the input signal. The higher the input frequency applied to the filter the more the capacitor lags and the circuit becomes more and more “out of phase”." ( the explanation quoted is from this link http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/filter/filter_2.html).
 
In a 1st order HIGH PASS filter the capacitor is in series to the load and the phase will LEAD by 45 deg, the voltage across the capacitor cannot instantly change if there's a fast change on the input voltage it will instantaneously appear on the output side of the capacitor so high frequency pass through  That's how a capacitor work in AC circuits. Now phase shift is a difficult concept to explain, if you want to dig in in taake a look http://www.tedpavlic.com/teaching/osu/ece209/lab3_opamp_FO/lab3_opamp_FO_phase_shift.pdf  but I would accept it as it is explained here http://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/filter/filter_3.html and go on with it :)
 
If i understand correctly every order shift the phase by 45 deg, 1st order is 45deg, 2nd order 90deg, 3rd order 135deg, 4th order 180deg.
The leading or lagging part is associated with the filter type, Low pass make it lags, High pass make it leads... If I recall in this thread somewhere Piotr advised someone to actually inverse the polarity of one of it's driver so it would be in mainly in phase instead of cancelling a part of the Frequency Response. before that the guy showed he had a big dip in his measure of the headphone's Frequency response... so that's also a way of dealing with it... 


 
So what you are describing sounds a lot like MAGIC!  Lol....
 
This is starting to get a little sticky.  Earlier, I was okay with the concepts about delay being measured in "time" and how that affects the coherence of sound.  Now, we're starting to introduce phase shifts measured in degrees and how that can affect the harmonics .  I'm okay with understanding both "delay" and "phase shifts" as separate and independent influences but now we have to merge the two into a single definition.  I initially thought that this might not be as hard as I think it is, but then I went back to your opening post about this and read this bombshell:
 
"What about the rest of the higher frequencies 1501hz-20khz? they have less time delay than the 1500 hz but now they will have to travel along the tubelength appropriate for the 1500hz delay...?"
 
So are you saying a 1st order HP crossover at 1500Hz will cause a 88.3µs delay in only that specific frequency and that frequencies higher than this experience less and less delay so by the time we get up to 10kHz, the delay is only something like 13µs?  Ohhh wait a second.......this is kind of cool and actually could explains a lot about the crossover testing I did a while ago.  I'll have to go back and review my testing based on this information.
 
If we look at some data, this might help:
 
 1st Order2nd Order3rd Order
(Hz)45-deg90-deg135-deg
1000125µs250µs375µs
150083µs167µs250µs
200063µs125µs188µs
300042µs83µs125µs
400031µs63µs94µs
500025µs50µs75µs
600021µs42µs63µs
700018µs36µs54µs
800016µs31µs47µs
900014µs28µs42µs
1000013µs25µs38µs
 Delay in microseconds
 
When I look at this and I think that 10µs, while it might be the theoretical limit of the average human ear, it's not practical to correct delays above this level.  Delays above 100µs might be something to actually pay attention to when doing this in the real-world; just guessing at this obviously .  Similar to many of us not paying too much attention to frequency response above 8khz on our builds since most of us don't have testing equipment that can reliably and accurately show us the FR for those frequencies.  And FR above 12kHz is getting into the realm that separates the hobbyists from the professionals.
 
I have definitely see situations in one of my prototypes where I had to reverse the polarity of a DTEC to correct a huge cancellation in my frequency response of a 6 driver setup I was experimenting with.  
 
 
 

--Cheers
 
Oct 9, 2015 at 2:28 PM Post #3,925 of 16,107
I just finished making my first CIEM - a quad-driver with a Knowles GK with an extra Knowles CI-22955 connected in parallel with the GK's CI driver. Both CIs are glued to each other and a single 20mm #12 tube was used for them, along with a red Knowles damper. The TWFK is positioned closer to the tip (about 9mm tube length) with a single #12 tube. There aren't any other electronic additions other than the crossover that came with the GK. The shell itself is made from Gelaze UV Nail Topcoat, cast in a gelatin mold, with a cover plate made from transparent polycarbonate. They look pretty sweet! I'll get some pictures up when I have time. Thanks everyone for all the hard work that has helped me make these!

 

The goal was to have some extra bass kick but the CIs still display impressive lower midrange and are also shouting down the TWFK drivers in the GK. The lower mids from the CIs get congested easily and the bass is on the boomier side rather than the tighter side. The TWFKs are unfiltered but are barely audible over the raw power of the CIs. I want to tighten the bass and somehow decongest the lower mids, but I'm unsure of how to start. Would wiring the CIs in series do any good?

 

I'm thinking of moving the red filter closer to the drivers to increase bass decay, but how can I reduce the SPL from the CIs so that the TWFK isn't so overpowered? 
 
Oct 9, 2015 at 3:27 PM Post #3,926 of 16,107
  I just finished making my first CIEM - a quad-driver with a Knowles GK with an extra Knowles CI-22955 connected in parallel with the GK's CI driver. Both CIs are glued to each other and a single 20mm #12 tube was used for them, along with a red Knowles damper. The TWFK is positioned closer to the tip (about 9mm tube length) with a single #12 tube. There aren't any other electronic additions other than the crossover that came with the GK. The shell itself is made from Gelaze UV Nail Topcoat, cast in a gelatin mold, with a cover plate made from transparent polycarbonate. They look pretty sweet! I'll get some pictures up when I have time. Thanks everyone for all the hard work that has helped me make these!

 

The goal was to have some extra bass kick but the CIs still display impressive lower midrange and are also shouting down the TWFK drivers in the GK. The lower mids from the CIs get congested easily and the bass is on the boomier side rather than the tighter side. The TWFKs are unfiltered but are barely audible over the raw power of the CIs. I want to tighten the bass and somehow decongest the lower mids, but I'm unsure of how to start. Would wiring the CIs in series do any good?

 

I'm thinking of moving the red filter closer to the drivers to increase bass decay, but how can I reduce the SPL from the CIs so that the TWFK isn't so overpowered? 

How good do you feel with soldering? Do you have easy access to untypical value of caps? (mouser/digikey is enough but to some countries shipping costs a lot unless you're buying in large quantities).
I will send you scheme just let me know what level of sophistication do you want, like: easy, normal, cool or super-cool :D
 
Oct 9, 2015 at 3:39 PM Post #3,927 of 16,107
How good do you feel with soldering? Do you have easy access to untypical value of caps? (mouser/digikey is enough but to some countries shipping costs a lot unless you're buying in large quantities).
I will send you scheme just let me know what level of sophistication do you want, like: easy, normal, cool or super-cool :D


Come on, let us know how you'd go about improving the issues, Peter. The double CI's are too powerful and need to be toned town with some resistors or maybe a resistor heavy LP xover.

You can't just use "super-cool" without sharing. It's a forum rule I think. :)
 
Oct 9, 2015 at 3:41 PM Post #3,928 of 16,107
 
How good do you feel with soldering? Do you have easy access to untypical value of caps? (mouser/digikey is enough but to some countries shipping costs a lot unless you're buying in large quantities).
I will send you scheme just let me know what level of sophistication do you want, like: easy, normal, cool or super-cool :D

I've had a ton of soldering experience so I'm pretty comfortable with it. My ears and ear canals are small, though, so a design with less components would be appreciated. :) Digikey/mouser are pretty accessible for me (USA) so anything available on there should be fair game. I'm aiming for a somewhat neutral response - some extra bass slam or treble sparkle isn't unwelcome though, as long as the mids do not become recessed. 

Thanks piotrus! Not just for I find it awesome that you're so invested in helping out people in this thread despite being someone who is dependent on people buying what you make. I've used a lot of your previous input in figuring this out!

EDIT: Here are the pictures of my build:


 
Oct 9, 2015 at 5:01 PM Post #3,930 of 16,107
EDIT: Here are the pictures of my build:

 
Nice!! I see you used MMCX connectors of which I'm a big fan.  I also some components in there other than the drivers.  Did you separate the TWFK and the CI from the GK's crosover so you could position the TWFK down into the canal?  That's pretty smart!  Some have complained about trying to put double tubes on the GK but because of the lack of clearance between the two nozzles, it's a pain.  
 
I'm thinking Peter's idea is going to do away with the existing crossover and suggest a 3-way, or maybe just add a 2nd order LP crossover to one of those CIs. Either way, a TWFK + 2 CI's has the making of one hell of a great sounding IEM.  Can't wait!
 

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