[Theodoric Paddlefoot]

Quick question, when connecting the tubing to the drivers do you glue a 2.0mm ID tube directly to a driver or can you use a 1mm ID tube the length of the BA nozzle to connect the two?

You could stretch the 2mm tube over the driver to avoid getting glue into the nozzle. That's the safest way I'd say. But I just did what you suggested. I've pushed the 1mm connector tube halfway over the nozzle, then applied a little bit of glue into the gap between the connector tube and the BA and pushed the connector tube all the way down. then do basically the same for the 2mm tube. You may need to hold it in place until your glue hardens, because it may slip off the 1mm tube.

 

[amemisome]

You could stretch the 2mm tube over the driver to avoid getting glue into the nozzle. That's the safest way I'd say. But I just did what you suggested. I've pushed the 1mm connector tube halfway over the nozzle, then applied a little bit of glue into the gap between the connector tube and the BA and pushed the connector tube all the way down. then do basically the same for the 2mm tube. You may need to hold it in place until your glue hardens, because it may slip off the 1mm tube.

Thanks, I'll try to see if I can stretch the tube over the BA. If not I'll first glue the 1mm then put the 2mm over it.

 

[Jonmakauu]

Does anybody know of a uv lacquer besides lack 3? Can't seem to find it anywhere. Aliexpress was my last option but somehow soundlink deleted it and now I am unable to get my hands on it at all

 

[Wgibson]

Does anybody know of a uv lacquer besides lack 3? Can't seem to find it anywhere. Aliexpress was my last option but somehow soundlink deleted it and now I am unable to get my hands on it at all

I just bought some today from fusionet.com (in the US). Will let you know when it gets here.

 

[MythicalEon]

Does anybody know of a uv lacquer besides lack 3? Can't seem to find it anywhere. Aliexpress was my last option but somehow soundlink deleted it and now I am unable to get my hands on it at all

As far as audiology specific lacquers go, there is Egger LP/H Lacquer, Pro3dure L-1, Nicefit Lacquer… I only have the Egger LP/H antibacterial though, so I can’t comment on anything.

Mcear does sell lacquers if you live in that region. As for how I got mine, it’s a bit unconventional so I won’t say. Hopefully the list helps you find something though.

Edit: SureHold lacquer cures with an inhibition layer and is unsuitable, thanks @mattmatt

 

[mattmatt]

As far as audiology specific lacquers go, there is Egger LP/H Lacquer, Pro3dure L-1, some SureHold one that I’m unsure about, Nicefit Lacquer… I only have the Egger LP/H antibacterial though, so I can’t comment on anything.

Mcear does sell lacquers if you live in that region. As for how I got mine, it’s a bit unconventional so I won’t say. Hopefully the list helps you find something though.

A friend told me that SureHold doesn't cure without removing oxygen. It cures with an inhibition layer.

 

[MythicalEon]

A friend told me that SureHold doesn't cure without removing oxygen. It cures with an inhibition layer.

Oof. Thanks for informing, am editing my post.

 

[amemisome]

After a lot of issues I've finally made my first DIY set. Thanks to everyone who helped me, it wouldn't have been this good without your help.

Spoiler: Pictures

The CIEMs themselves, I went with recessed 2-pin as that seems to be one that people really like. I still have a lot of skills to work on for future projects, but since it's my first set I'm very happy with them.
I used the tube length (20mm on CI, 13mm on ED) and damper values (green on CI, white on ED) that @tomekk suggested. Right on's crossover was a real life saver too, the tuning is great and it was much easier to use than having to solder the individual crossover components with wires by hand.

I graphed the drivers before and after putting them in the shells, I think I swapped the drivers while putting them in the shells? Oh well it sounds fine and the graphs in REW don't seem to indicate that I flipped the phase around.

Spoiler: Impressions so far

Bass digs deep but lacks authority compared to a dynamic, handles EQ well enough so it can be very enjoyable without too much effort.
Mids without EQ are meh, but after slightly increasing the 1000~2000Hz range it sounds very good.
Treble isn't the smoothest I've heard but it's not really harsh or sibilant either, T2's and KZ's are considerably worse.
Soundstage has decent width given the deep insertion fit this has, height was surprisingly acceptable as well, depth was lacking though.
Imaging is very smooth within the soundstage, the middle could be a little more precise but it's honestly better than I had expected.
Instrument separation is the best I've heard, not that that's saying much with how little audio equipment I've heard but for me that's pretty exciting.

For now I'll be taking a break from DIY stuff. Once I want to make something new I'll probably try RAB-P first, to work on my skills a bit more before getting more expensive drivers. After that maybe Sonion 38 + 2389D, I'm really interested to see how much better that would be given that I'm already very happy with this set.

 

[gregeagle]

Hey guys… for Share…
Tried an old Design for Guitar friend…changed it a bit…
Knowles CI22955 1mmID x20mm 10ohm, orange

Knowles ED29689 2mmIDx15mm, 2x2,2uf parallel , green @end

Knowles RAD-33518-P183 0,47uf, Kombi Tube with ED, reverse Pol!

sounds goods to me…. In some songs snare drum hits hard….

FR IS ON

cheers guys!!!

 

[dnspics]

Hey guys… for Share…
Tried an old Design for Guitar friend…changed it a bit…
Knowles CI22955 1mmID x20mm 10ohm, orange

Knowles ED29689 2mmIDx15mm, 2x2,2uf parallel , green @end

Knowles RAD-33518-P183 0,47uf, Kombi Tube with ED, reverse Pol!

sounds goods to me…. In some songs snare drum hits hard….

FR IS ON

cheers guys!!!

How did you get the logo to look so nice?

 

[Theodoric Paddlefoot]

Hey everyone!
I'm revisiting my old MASM build, which was unfortunately based off of an older schematic and not the MASM 3 Pro one.
I've already fixed the tubing and dampers and wanted to add a 38D1XJ for that extra bass. So far so good one might think.
What's the best approach to intensify the bass with the 38D1XJ? I already applied an LPad with 4.7 ohm series parallel and it kinda gets there but colours the mids too much.
Here are some measurements for better understanding. I also have impedance measurements ready if needed.
light grey -> 38D1XJ
dark grey -> 38D1XJ with LPad
teal -> all three BAs together
yellow -> only the GQ 30783 and the RAB 32033
red -> a little PEQ applied just to have a picture of how it should look like

 

[Petrichor DE]

These were posted once in this thread , i dont know if the stl files have boon posted

Beginner here,
where can I get this kind of beautiful wires?

 

[Wgibson]

Hey everyone!
I'm revisiting my old MASM build, which was unfortunately based off of an older schematic and not the MASM 3 Pro one.
I've already fixed the tubing and dampers and wanted to add a 38D1XJ for that extra bass. So far so good one might think.
What's the best approach to intensify the bass with the 38D1XJ? I already applied an LPad with 4.7 ohm series parallel and it kinda gets there but colours the mids too much.
Here are some measurements for better understanding. I also have impedance measurements ready if needed.
light grey -> 38D1XJ
dark grey -> 38D1XJ with LPad
teal -> all three BAs together
yellow -> only the GQ 30783 and the RAB 32033
red -> a little PEQ applied just to have a picture of how it should look like

What are your constraints?

I'd lose the L-pad, use a small (0.3-0.6mm ID) and/or heavier dampers.

Put the 38 in series with everything else (after it) and use a parallel cap to 38 as a low pass. Big cap value, shoot for 50ish hz low pass.

If the 38 isn't loud enough, use a resistor parallel with the rest of the circuit, but series with the 38.

That is basically what I did on my 4BA with the switches, with good results.

38 is low passed which eliminates/ hides its impedance. Parallel resistor to the rest of the circuit limits its impedance rise.

This is the only functional electronic RC (no inductor) low pass strategy I'm aware of (doesn't affect other drivers.)

 

[MythicalEon]

Beginner here,
where can I get this kind of beautiful wires?

If you’re talking about the internal wires, those are litz wires, where you could buy in aliexpress, Taobao, etc.

If you’re talking about the cable, it’s some SPC cable, similar to what Penon Audio sells.

 

[Theodoric Paddlefoot]

What are your constraints?

I'd lose the L-pad, use a small (0.3-0.6mm ID) and/or heavier dampers.

Put the 38 in series with everything else (after it) and use a parallel cap to 38 as a low pass. Big cap value, shoot for 50ish hz low pass.

If the 38 isn't loud enough, use a resistor parallel with the rest of the circuit, but series with the 38.

That is basically what I did on my 4BA with the switches, with good results.

38 is low passed which eliminates/ hides its impedance. Parallel resistor to the rest of the circuit limits its impedance rise.

This is the only functional electronic RC (no inductor) low pass strategy I'm aware of (doesn't affect other drivers.)

That sounds like a plan. I'm already on a 1mm ID tube with 3.2cm length on the 38 and would have to order smaller ID ones so I think I'll keep that untouched for now.

Thanks a lot, I'll work on it today.