Home-Made IEMs
Aug 7, 2019 at 12:47 PM Post #9,751 of 16,017
@eunice I think after project codename Big(this design going above), I think I should focus on this before jumping on Tubeless design.

Well, for someone left and not able to get the design

Woofer -> spiral damper(66mm long/0.5ID) or accu-pass [according to design demands] -> tube

Midrange-> back wave fixing the front wave peaks and also causing a natural high pass



@wolkegeist
I have ordered the shell
 
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Aug 7, 2019 at 4:33 PM Post #9,752 of 16,017
@eunice I think after project codename Big(this design going above), I think I should focus on this before jumping on Tubeless design.

Well, for someone left and not able to get the design

Woofer -> spiral damper(66mm long/0.5ID) or accu-pass [according to design demands] -> tube

Midrange-> back wave fixing the front wave peaks and also causing a natural high pass



@wolkegeist
I have ordered the shell
They also have 3D printed Apex model (plastic, not metal like the 64 original ones) if you are interested. The shell is kinda too expensive for me now, so I'll stick with resin and cheapo shells. But it'll be great if you can 3D scan them and share the file with us!

I'm also working on my Poorman build, dual Belsing RAB32257, series with zobel and belsing TWFK 30017. All in Shure 846 shell (because they are sexy), and maybe I'll make a bigger nozzle out of it.

It's because the pair I make for my friends using knowles RAB and TWFK is a success,I wanna try Belsing driver for a change, and they're also cheap.
 
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Aug 8, 2019 at 8:32 PM Post #9,753 of 16,017
They also have 3D printed Apex model (plastic, not metal like the 64 original ones) if you are interested. The shell is kinda too expensive for me now, so I'll stick with resin and cheapo shells. But it'll be great if you can 3D scan them and share the file with us!

I'm also working on my Poorman build, dual Belsing RAB32257, series with zobel and belsing TWFK 30017. All in Shure 846 shell (because they are sexy), and maybe I'll make a bigger nozzle out of it.

It's because the pair I make for my friends using knowles RAB and TWFK is a success,I wanna try Belsing driver for a change, and they're also cheap.
Well this is not a reply, I just used it to quote something which I am going to mention

And thanks @Ivan TT

Dynamic driver bass feels like after a hit, there is a skid(or a decay which is smeared to next time decay), then a black area(with of without area).

BA dont have this skid feeling, the bass stops very quick.
The issue when discussed with my friend, he told me simply, decreasing surface area for radiation and increasing inductance doesn't really resolve bass for ears.

Dual RAB32033 series zobel solve both those issues, that's why the bass session is intense.

I am working on dual series zobel, with one driver at time lag to another to create hall like space and strong subbass presence
 
Aug 9, 2019 at 9:06 AM Post #9,754 of 16,017
@dhruvmeena96
I remake the MASM 3 to MASM-5, adding the CI with incrementor and L-pad as you suggested and the EST (with 940nF cap in series) sharing bore with RAB-p. I also use grey damper on RAB, Green damper at 3mm for GQ and double yellow damper for CI.
I find it a little bit dip on high mid, maybe it’s because of grey damper? Also bass is quite recessed, maybe I should reduce yellow damper to 1? Mid is also quite forward, should I add a resistor to RAB? FC7B0527-04BA-4C94-8A60-7B2DB1BFC7D0.jpeg BCD0D582-2E7D-4E93-824E-2896FF8BB52B.jpeg D9E76691-984A-4467-9524-C6DB972D6D0F.jpeg
 
Aug 9, 2019 at 10:05 AM Post #9,755 of 16,017
@dhruvmeena96
I remake the MASM 3 to MASM-5, adding the CI with incrementor and L-pad as you suggested and the EST (with 940nF cap in series) sharing bore with RAB-p. I also use grey damper on RAB, Green damper at 3mm for GQ and double yellow damper for CI.
I find it a little bit dip on high mid, maybe it’s because of grey damper? Also bass is quite recessed, maybe I should reduce yellow damper to 1? Mid is also quite forward, should I add a resistor to RAB?
There Was a MASM 5 with Bellsing 5 within it

but this also looks good

First of all, dot damp the RAB at all, let it play full(this will keep the)
double damp the GQ with green and grey
CI-22955 with L-pad, you can control bass amout by just reducing the series resistor part
double damper is to not let CI come in main mid region and warm it up
you can tune it by your preferences though

you can remove the l-pad and one yellow damper(keep both dampers, remove l-pad first) if you want the the warmth


nice shell too












Give me that shell and cable

Damm they look so nice
 
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Aug 9, 2019 at 9:18 PM Post #9,756 of 16,017
There Was a MASM 5 with Bellsing 5 within it. No there is no MASM 5 sorry

Update

but this also looks good

First of all, dot damp the RAB at all, let it play full(this will keep the)
double damp the GQ with green and grey
CI-22955 with L-pad, you can control bass amout by just reducing the series resistor part
double damper is to not let CI come in main mid region and warm it up
you can tune it by your preferences though

you can remove the l-pad and one yellow damper(keep both dampers, remove l-pad first) if you want the the warmth


nice shell too

Sorry it would be MASM6 with BS5

There is no MASM5

Sorry, I was tired and brain stopped responding at that time
Hahahhaa
 
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Aug 9, 2019 at 11:38 PM Post #9,758 of 16,017
Sorry it would be MASM6 with BS5

There is no MASM5

Sorry, I was tired and brain stopped responding at that time
Hahahhaa
Haha so maybe MASM 3 super galaxy lol. Btw I realized I plug the cable at the wrong polarity, but still I’ll remove grey damper of rab and add it in GQ, CI bass is quite nice now, will remove L-pad anyway for extra oomph.

Cable is Oyaide HPC-23awg, copper conduter, silver shield. They also have all copper cable but the sleeve is either black or red. I bought it straight from Japan, 8-9$ per meter, this cable I made is like ~1.3m. Sounds ****ing good for the price tho. Ali cable is no match.

Shell is cheap 3D printed Taobao shell, I’ll paint it with lacquer after I retune it. Hope it wouldn’t take long tho.
 
Aug 10, 2019 at 12:06 AM Post #9,759 of 16,017
Haha so maybe MASM 3 super galaxy lol. Btw I realized I plug the cable at the wrong polarity, but still I’ll remove grey damper of rab and add it in GQ, CI bass is quite nice now, will remove L-pad anyway for extra oomph.

Cable is Oyaide HPC-23awg, copper conduter, silver shield. They also have all copper cable but the sleeve is either black or red. I bought it straight from Japan, 8-9$ per meter, this cable I made is like ~1.3m. Sounds ****ing good for the price tho. Ali cable is no match.

Shell is cheap 3D printed Taobao shell, I’ll paint it with lacquer after I retune it. Hope it wouldn’t take long tho.
These all are like Special edition of MASM. Number represent the driver count.

What you did to CI to get the bass
 
Aug 10, 2019 at 12:44 AM Post #9,760 of 16,017
These all are like Special edition of MASM. Number represent the driver count.

What you did to CI to get the bass
Oh as I said, the cable is 2 pin so I plug it at the wrong polarity, (+) is (-) and (-) is (+), it should be reversed. I was tired after making the crossover so I kinda not care about polarity and phase tho. CI is double yellow damper, with 26.7Ohm incrementer, then L-pad of 4.7Ohm. I’m thinking about removing L-pad tho.
 
Aug 10, 2019 at 9:15 AM Post #9,761 of 16,017

This is how you read impulse response

And this is what we need for tubeless design.
You'd have a hard time deciphering the behavior of the impulse within the shell though, since the distance it takes to travel inside is very very small. you'd have to really dissect your cavity and learning how each parameter affects the behavior one by one. this is tough work. best would be to use a different approach like an over simplified one. starting with very basic cavity volumes and shapes and see

also in the end there's no such thing as tubeless since it usually end up in a nozzle/tube shape to reach your ear canal, best would be to take into account the pinna and radiate the whole sound against it. but that would not have the typical iem shape anymore...
btw don't pay attention I am just rambling haha
 
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Aug 10, 2019 at 11:13 AM Post #9,763 of 16,017
You'd have a hard time deciphering the behavior of the impulse within the shell though, since the distance it takes to travel inside is very very small. you'd have to really dissect your cavity and learning how each parameter affects the behavior one by one. this is tough work. best would be to use a different approach like an over simplified one. starting with very basic cavity volumes and shapes and see

also in the end there's no such thing as tubeless since it usually end up in a nozzle/tube shape to reach your ear canal, best would be to take into account the pinna and radiate the whole sound against it. but that would not have the typical iem shape anymore...
btw don't pay attention I am just rambling haha
True...
If you consider frequency response test, impedance response graph, impulse response, total harmonic distortions, you will not have enough time to listen to music. :slight_smile:
thatdoes matter when you have a pen and paper before making iem. Just calculate well enough within parameters and these thing align pretty well. Fine tuning takes little bit of time and you are done with a good pair of IEM.

The thing is that....

Making a pair sounding nice is easy
Making a pair which performs nice is easy
But doing both at same time is very hard. You have to break conventions there.

@vitaliy belo tia driver is full open tweeter rather than normal top firing driver, my guess is that, there was no sonion estat/electret driver when he actually made the tia driver. And it works way better as it doesnt induces peak, just pure bliss......I have U12T and U18T(sold to my friend) and I can vouch for that.

Shure SE846 low pass might be the greatest subwoofer ever made, and I am serious. Even though it is old, it still outperforms everything in bass I have listened to.

@FullCircle Noble savant was true example of how less can be more(I think he was inspired by Ferrari, its their stuff). Savant is something deep to my heart that's why I made the Final 2(just to improve the savant even further while keeping dual driver platform)

@piotrus-g FIBAE Black inspired me to do all this weird funny things recently. I dont know why the Helmholtz resonator bass seems to be very different. Its like Banana Moonshine, its very smooth on palate(like a single BA bass), but then hits very hard as it goes down(resonating bass). There was something with the bass that is not explainable but I will try as I am from science field and I kinda know how Helmholtz works.

You get the primary impulse or bass signal from single BA first, followed by zero lag bass boost from resonator which seems to follow a time rule on paper(undistinguishable) but you can sense that bass boost is actually followed by original bass signal but also stops in time with original signal.

So when bass hit

Light Bass -> separated distinguishable powerful decay

But as bass signal stop, the decay stops as well and doesn't go further. Which is a hard feat as it is.




Then comes the Ocharaku brand

And last is etymotic ER4S(the king)




While I used to vouch for Asuis(especially this) and Apex(this I felt like a nice tuning filter, which made sense) when I bought U12T, but not now, as I can reduce pain inducing pressure from every signal component just by altering how sound interacts and flow.



OK back to impulse, when you know how you are going to end up while tuning, these parameters can be then fine tuned, so it is little time consuming but worth it.

It becomes PITA when you do it like me and @Jedrula1 .
Shifting mm changes phase, time and space domain like driver dont give a ***. They want to screw you hard.



And it doesn't seem so nice when I say drivers to my colleagues here....they want to listen transducer from my mouth which I never speak to let them feel burn
 
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Aug 10, 2019 at 11:35 AM Post #9,764 of 16,017
True...

thatdoes matter when you have a pen and paper before making iem. Just calculate well enough within parameters and these thing align pretty well. Fine tuning takes little bit of time and you are done with a good pair of IEM.

The thing is that....

Making a pair sounding nice is easy
Making a pair which performs nice is easy
But doing both at same time is very hard. You have to break conventions there.

@vitaliy belo tia driver is full open tweeter rather than normal top firing driver, my guess is that, there was no sonion estat/electret driver when he actually made the tia driver. And it works way better as it doesnt induces peak, just pure bliss......I have U12T and U18T(sold to my friend) and I can vouch for that.

Shure SE846 low pass might be the greatest subwoofer ever made, and I am serious. Even though it is old, it still outperforms everything in bass I have listened to.

@FullCircle Noble savant was true example of how less can be more(I think he was inspired by Ferrari, its their stuff). Savant is something deep to my heart that's why I made the Final 2(just to improve the savant even further while keeping dual driver platform)

@piotrus-g FIBAE Black inspired me to do all this weird funny things recently. I dont know why the Helmholtz resonator bass seems to be very different. Its like Banana Moonshine, its very smooth on palate(like a single BA bass), but then hits very hard as it goes down(resonating bass). There was something with the bass that is not explainable but I will try as I am from science field and I kinda know how Helmholtz works.

You get the primary impulse or bass signal from single BA first, followed by zero lag bass boost from resonator which seems to follow a time rule on paper(undistinguishable) but you can sense that bass boost is actually followed by original bass signal but also stops in time with original signal.

So when bass hit

Light Bass -> separated distinguishable powerful decay

But as bass signal stop, the decay stops as well and doesn't go further. Which is a hard feat as it is.




And last is etymotic ER4S(the king)




While I used to vouch for Asuis(especially this) and Apex(this I felt like a nice tuning filter, which made sense) when I bought U12T, but not now, as I can reduce pain inducing pressure from every signal component just by altering how sound interacts and flow.



OK back to impulse, when you know how you are going to end up while tuning, these parameters can be then fine tuned, so it is little time consuming but worth it.

It becomes PITA when you do it like me and @Jedrula1 .
Shifting mm changes phase, time and space domain like driver dont give a ****. They want to screw you hard.



And it doesn't seem so nice when I say drivers to my colleagues here....they want to listen transducer from my mouth which I never speak to let them feel burn
Niceee. Can you show us the way of Shure 846 bass? I think maybe it’s because of the chamber before the nozzle?
 
Aug 10, 2019 at 12:02 PM Post #9,765 of 16,017
Niceee. Can you show us the way of Shure 846 bass? I think maybe it’s because of the chamber before the nozzle?
yhst-94024159501758_2270_14533109.jpg


6314864.jpg


The acoustic lowpass

The subwoofer has to pass a through a spiral, then snake pattern, then again a spiral, then through long tube structure, making its way out.

Midrange and tweeter outlet were cut inside the adapter itself to make it more compact
 
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