[HAMS]

Still waiting ED29689 and parts for my diy etymotic. Meanwhile, curious noob question, what adding capacitor do to BA? I hear that you can turn er4p/s to er4b by adding resistor and capacitor.

 

[eunice]

Meanwhile, curious noob question, what adding capacitor do to BA? I hear that you can turn er4p/s to er4b by adding resistor and capacitor.

Search the interwebs for CR filter, RC filter or LCR filter, that will give you a good start.

 

[eunice]

How do you drill the 3 mm holes?

I use a small diamond bore and move it in circles until the tubes fit in. To check that I taped together two short pieces of tube so I can quickly check whether my holes are large enough. After gluing the tubes I fill up the ear canal with resin (from the inside) and cure it. After that I insert two blunt syringe needles into the tubes (mine just have 2mm diameter) and then use some resin to create a nice looking tip.


Depending on the shell material and thicknes using a rose or a normal drill can easily shatter the shell. Pro3dure seems to be more brittle than Dreve Fotoplast, but I only use the diamond bore to take no risks.

 

[tomekk]

reference for zobel knowles base SR6438

You can start with 10uf+30ohm.

 

[pace88]

You can start with 10uf+30ohm.

ok @tomekk

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Still waiting ED29689 and parts for my diy etymotic. Meanwhile, curious noob question, what adding capacitor do to BA? I hear that you can turn er4p/s to er4b by adding resistor and capacitor.

The capacitor is for binaural compensation and is not needed for modern songs. And it seriously poops on the impedance and power distribution for ER4.

Working on Zobel for ED29689. 1mH nearby value for inductance, but I want to have pin point value so I dont screw up the phase and impedance with my compensated value.

You can start with 10uf+30ohm.

30ohm ain't ideal. To much heavy damping for SR.

Start with 47 ohms and try hit and trails with capacitor. And you should have ARTA and impedance measurement tool(its somewhere in this thread, its diy).

 

[dhruvmeena96]

@eunice @Xymordos @Ivan TT @IvanNOON @Choy Wei De @tomekk @Rabid86 @Everyone


I am thinking of going tubeless....anybody in for that project. That might give some new info and some more educational material

That project would be very hard in itself as we have to measure drivers at different placement inside a shell.

I will try to take out some average values and some formulaes (trick to be exact) to get this type of setup always right inside every shell

 

[eunice]

@eunice @Xymordos @Ivan TT @IvanNOON @Choy Wei De @tomekk @Rabid86 @Everyone


I am thinking of going tubeless....anybody in for that project. That might give some new info and some more educational material

That project would be very hard in itself as we have to measure drivers at different placement inside a shell.

I will try to take out some average values and some formulaes (trick to be exact) to get this type of setup always right inside every shell

I am in. I recently bought a resin 3D printer to try this out. I am not afraid of math either, but I have yet to find good read to the basics of modeling/simulating IEMs.

What would you suggest me to read to catch up on theory?

 

[dhruvmeena96]

I am in. I recently bought a resin 3D printer to try this out. I am not afraid of math either, but I have yet to find good read to the basics of modeling/simulating IEMs.

What would you suggest me to read to catch up on theory?

Room acoustics....go read the crap out of it.
Cavity and speaker inside cavity......go to the max level
Since BA inside shell is like fitting a big speaker inside a small room with one exit to open side.
We will suffer from room modes, resonance of shell material and we are going to deal with a lot more stuff here.

I heard Tia Fourté and the Noir. I was disgusted with Tia Fourté but liked Noir. Both have this hollowness due to aluminium shell, ring and weird suckout. Tia Fourté Noir was good as its suckout was compensated.(Tia Fourté measure normal, but this hollowness first sounds good, but then feel starts to feel weird. Its like viperaudio field surround with field strength to 1 and mid strength to 3 and some bass boost)

Something like HD800 to HD800S level of compensation.

I love my 64Audio U12T though(masterpiece, way better than U18t)

Plus BA are compression driver with spout being a phase plug/resonance adder etc. The moment BA fire in an open cavity, there is a sudden expansion of sound, decrease in pressure of low region, and angle of BA decides where the treble beam really strikes and where it ring and where it get out of coherency.

Well one thing I am damm spot on, I did a ratio of 1.166667:1:2 for tubing of woofer:mid:tweeter(where you can eliminate tweeter damper). This ratio will change to
2:1.66667:1 for woofer:mids:tweeter.

But where the spout fire, where the BA is placed, what is the structure of shell etc etc really matters.

So, all those who are going to do the project have to stick with a certain shell(go raid aliexpress and taobao and tell me which shell wins the poll for this experiment and I will order it).

 

[dhruvmeena96]

Let's talk about mode

Take a Big BA in small shell(like CI in sealed KZ ZSA from nozzle and back)

This is educational purpose only and I am not considering expansion of compressed sound etc.

Just take a big speaker in small room.
This makes the 1st mode rise higher compared to large room. Let's take the 120Hz dip as 1st mode.
Second mode appears after 60Hz and so on. And the effect gets more pronounced in dips or peak as we go above the frequency.

Now we open the nozzle of the shell. A weird two sided phenomenon happens. High concentration of pressure wants to move out. This kinds balances out the situation of the opening is releasing 1/2 pressure outside. But then shell nozzle are cylindrical which adds its own sound.

Then, when we put inside the ear, weird things happen due closed structure. The peaks become even more weird and crazy. That's why I think 64audio went with Apex to compensate back to normal modes.

Now we placement of speaker. Tweeter is placed near the eardrum, so its not effected by spikiness caused by shell. fIR audio uses electrostatic which is spout, which has more directivity compared 64audio Tia tweeter which fire inside the cylinder but has advantage of more unrestricted sound flow. 64audio doesnt have the crazy 30dB dip likely to happen in theory because of placement of driver inside the shell(great respect to @vitaliy belo ) and if a dip appears, is compensated with integrated apex module, plus the way he crossed the IEM drivers.

Mids are also placed firing directly in the nozzle, just a little back, because mode effect is comparatively less.

Bass is what we have to decide.

And we seriously need High SPL bass

 

[Nebula Ears]

Thank you! @eunice

 

[tomekk]

Still waiting ED29689 and parts for my diy etymotic. Meanwhile, curious noob question, what adding capacitor do to BA? I hear that you can turn er4p/s to er4b by adding resistor and capacitor.

Spoiler: Spoiler

 

[dhruvmeena96]

@eunice



BS6Z(@Ivan TT and @eunice as author) : at 1:34, when the superstage and soundstage collapse, the BS6Z has clear distinction and doesn't let the Soundstage come anywhere. Its like a well controlled instrument. It knows when to stage and when to collapse inside the head. Second thing was the great f**king drums. The DTEC does the best drums. Nothing comes near. I mean, it just blows my brain off. The drum, decay and the stopping efficiency is unmatched in simple builds(like pro, MASM etc).


RAB-p: simply, the most controlled single driver after FIBAE 1(penon draco cable). It is gradual in shift of control like stage and intimacy. It may sound compressed compared to BS6Z, but it has its own single driver charm to it. It feels more coherent and the most tamed in control.

MASM3pro(MASM3 orignal is obsolete now, inspired from @Furco , created a series. ): Guitars and Vocals champ. Plucking of guitar is so much clear and feels like a veil taken of. Soundstage is crazy big, but the 1:34 soundstage collapse is sudden and is too aggressive in control.
Bass control is like handbrake, it just stops the bass superfast even though it is nicely extended and feels weird sometime. Soundstage to intimate and vice versa is too sudden and is really good for pinpointing the exact time but is not so great(taste may vary)


Final 2(the original Final series IEM, updated by @eunice damper config ): Take MASM 3, Tame its aggressive behavior on shifting of sound profile according to music, give it some warmth and increase details 1.5x( I mean + x0.5). Increase in detail is noticeable, the soundstage is slightly smaller but is more ambient and grand as midrange is dialed back.
Only con is the midrange Q factor is wide and kurtosis is small, which leads to somewhat compressed sound when super intimate things hit
Like this






OK this the end of my first generation DIY.(this is where I learned how to make IEM)

Well, second generation also ended with 8 driver sonion build and 10 drivers recent Knowles build. Didn't name it. If you guys need names and config, I can share it..no probs...(this is where I learned how to cross IEM driver properly)


Third generation going to start

 

[eunice]

Btw I want to make Finale 3 but FED is out of stock, so are there any substitute for it. I’m thinking SWFK/TWFK.

I loved FED so much that I bought the entire stock from mouser... twice... I am sorry, but they should have more on 2nd September. Dont get why they order only 8.

The FED is what makes finale so special, so I am afraid there is no replacement.

 

[Kulgrinda]

Welcome and glad you tried it.

I use orange filter for bass and white filter for highs. I insert the filters after building the CIEM shell.

It is definitively a very good sounding setup. I still think it’s the best overall recipe on this thread. Although there are several recipes beating the BS6+Z in certain areas, it’s still so versatile it is in my opinion the best build.

Are both tubes 2 mm ID 3mm OD? What length did you use? I also have this driver on the way, will be interesting to try it.