[aussietanker]

Clear shells are complete at 15 seconds with Egger. Much more than that, the canals are solid. Haven't used Dreve in a while.

Can i ask why you are using Egger in preference to Dreve. Is it simply a supply issue, price & cost, easier material to work with, thickness of the shell or you feel it gives you a clearer shell finish? Would appreciate your opinions (before i place my order )

Thanks

 

[MuZo2]

Where are you located? have you checked on taobao? they sell from complete ciem to shells , drivers, kits.

 

[alanwcruz]

Hello
It's so nice to know that there are people like you are out there...(feeling guilty for not being sad about this crappy situation)
how you did it?
Especially those electronic stuff...do you have any electronic knowledge?
Do you think hearing aid shells is suitable for this purpose?
Thank you

I mostly used tutorials by Shilohsjustice, the only thing I haven't seen mentioned is the method I use to take ear impressions. Where I live audiologist supplies are very expensive and no audiologist I could find would only take my ear impressions. So I got myself some dental alginate and used it to take my impressions myself, it also takes practice to get good results, it's not as easy as it seems.

Here are my first tries:



As can be seen, they where completely unusable. But practice makes perfect.


After that, i just followed the gelatin mold tutorial:


Then poured acrilic and cured under my DIY cure chamber


As far as electronics, for my personal pair, i used a GK with red damper on the highs, also a HODVTEC in parallel for extra punch on bass:


After wrestling with the small space inside my shells in order to fit the drivers in, i made a blue faceplate dying acrilic with food coloring powder, covered my shell with it, attached some old cables i had lying around and voila

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Just curious if anyone has tried “alcohol ink” for coloring shells?

I picked some up and plan on doing some experimenting with it. Could be promising, I’ll post my thoughts over the weekend.

 

[Im1fan2nv]

I mostly used tutorials by Shilohsjustice, the only thing I haven't seen mentioned is the method I use to take ear impressions. Where I live audiologist supplies are very expensive and no audiologist I could find would only take my ear impressions. So I got myself some dental alginate and used it to take my impressions myself, it also takes practice to get good results, it's not as easy as it seems.

Here are my first tries:



As can be seen, they where completely unusable. But practice makes perfect.


After that, i just followed the gelatin mold tutorial:


Then poured acrilic and cured under my DIY cure chamber


As far as electronics, for my personal pair, i used a GK with red damper on the highs, also a HODVTEC in parallel for extra punch on bass:


After wrestling with the small space inside my shells in order to fit the drivers in, i made a blue faceplate dying acrilic with food coloring powder, covered my shell with it, attached some old cables i had lying around and voila

That's what I call getting it done..

I'm curious if you have any FR curves with the extra HODVTEC. I tried combining one with a GV using various tuning circuits and as it turned out, the FR curve and sound was better with just the GV. So I figured it was just a waste of money to put the extra HODVTEC in it.

 

[ForceMajeure]

Just curious if anyone has tried “alcohol ink” for coloring shells?

I picked some up and plan on doing some experimenting with it. Could be promising, I’ll post my thoughts over the weekend.

alcohol ink is good if you want to dye certain materials before adding a resin layer on top. f.e metal or wood or other types. the advantage is that it drys quickly and can penetrate less porous surfaces. the effect coloring is a bit different and you can use it to your advantage to make certain designs

Btw alcohol inks are expensive. there are a few diy alcohol ink guides using sharpies and isoprpyl alcohol that work as good a s the real thing.
Ranger has a ton of special colors http://rangerink.com/?product=tim-holtz®-adirondack®-alcohol-inks

 

[Shilohsjustice]

alcohol ink is good if you want to dye certain materials before adding a resin layer on top. f.e metal or wood or other types. the advantage is that it drys quickly and can penetrate less porous surfaces. the effect coloring is a bit different and you can use it to your advantage to make certain designs

Btw alcohol inks are expensive. there are a few diy alcohol ink guides using sharpies and isoprpyl alcohol that work as good a s the real thing.
Ranger has a ton of special colors http://rangerink.com/?product=tim-holtz®-adirondack®-alcohol-inks

Thanks!!!! I colored some Fotoplast this morning before work and it mixed instantly. I’m going to see how it cure later today. There are some cool techniques I’m going to try for marbling that may workout cool. I’ll post later some pics.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Ok, so I don’t have any pics right now as I am not home, but I’m hoping to have some later. I can confirm that the alcohol ink is AWESOME at coloring Fotoplast. It mixes well and it cures well, I actually like it better than the resin obsession at the moment. I have tested 3 colors and will post some pics later with some results.

 

[aussietanker]

As far as electronics, for my personal pair, i used a GK with red damper on the highs, also a HODVTEC in parallel for extra punch on bass:

@alanwcruz.444931

It looks like your drivers are fully encased in the tubing or am I just seeing things? How did you do that?

I can confirm that the alcohol ink is AWESOME at coloring Fotoplast. It mixes well and it cures well, I actually like it better than the resin obsession at the moment. I have tested 3 colors and will post some pics later with some results.

Have been spending a bit of time looking at YouTube videos on this very subject. I am keen to see how your's have turned out!

 

[Arturo Sallas]

Hey Guys here´s my first attempt. I followed the tutorials from Shilohsjustice about the gelatin molds, and the technique of pouring glycerine to finishe the curing and everything went fine. The color shell I made it with acrylic paint but it was supposed to be turquoise color but it turns darker when mixed with the resin, so now it´s an ugly greenish blue haha.

The drivers I used are HE-3175, WBFK-30000 HF reinforcement and a CI-22955 as subwoofer reinforcement.

The only problem i have found that the HE-31751 has lower output than the rest of the drives so the lows overpower a little bit the highs, I´ll try to level them with resitors.

Thanks everyone for all the info you guys put on here.

 

[alanwcruz]

That's what I call getting it done..

I'm curious if you have any FR curves with the extra HODVTEC. I tried combining one with a GV using various tuning circuits and as it turned out, the FR curve and sound was better with just the GV. So I figured it was just a waste of money to put the extra HODVTEC in it.

Nope, no FR curves, I'm still not up to that step hahahaha. For now my ears are my measuring equipment. AFAIK GV already comes with a HODVTEC. The GK I use comes with a CI, I saw the curve for the HODVTEC in its datasheet and saw it has a higher db output on the bass frecuencies so I thought it would raise those frequencies if I paired them. It was quite the challenge fitting them all inside my extra small shells, and more of a challenge finding the correct tubes to get the sound I was looking for. As it has been said here, the tubing diameter plays a very big part in the sound, and with my horribly small ear canals, fitting individual tubes was all together imposible, so I used a small diameter tube on HODVTEC and a bigger diameter on the CI and put both of them together, so only a single tube would be used for bass and mid.

I found that bass can be tuned playing around with the length of the tubbing.

Once I build my measuring rig I'll post my FR curves.

Anyone have any pointers on how to build some DIY measuring equipment?

 

[alanwcruz]

It looks like your drivers are fully encased in the tubing or am I just seeing things? How did you do that?

Nope, just the tips are in the tubing, here's another pic where it can be seen better:

 

[aussietanker]

Got it! Thanks for the explanation. They look great. I also see how you have "fed" one tube into the other to save some space. How did you get a round hole in the other tube? Is there a special punch that is used for this purpose? And did you glue around the join?


I am still waiting on my reasons and equipment to arrive so have to be content with lots of reading at the moment.

 

[Shilohsjustice]

Here is a quick pic of the mixed Fotoplast, I haven’t made any shells but will be.

 

[alanwcruz]

I also see how you have "fed" one tube into the other to save some space. How did you get a round hole in the other tube? Is there a special punch that is used for this purpose? And did you glue around the join?

I use the tip of my hot soldering iron. As far as glue, I use acrylic as glue, I put a little around the tube and then cure it for some 20 seconds. Gives a perfect seal and can be handled right away.