[Delta9K]

do you all keep everything stock or wind up going with a grill mod and ZMF or Dekoni pads?

I'm still rolling stock with mine. I have new grills, but I haven't installed them yet because I really like how it sounds as-is. I am using a Norne Vygarde cable, and I did put a headband sweater on it - the latter was more for protection than anything else.

 

[bagwell359]

I made a classified post to try and sell some of my gear so I can get a HE6se or trade for one.

do you all keep everything stock or wind up going with a grill mod and ZMF or Dekoni pads? I was recommended a grill mod for the HE560 and have been very happy with it.

The driver of the HE-6 SE is excellent, however much of the rest of is: ad hoc/cheap/hap hazard IMO.

My mods cribbed from the SBAF/HF crew of the 2012-15 era, plus my own:

1. Parametric EQ, - but if you want it accurate to music and not fashion, ignore the settings of crinicle under 100 Hz, and the upper mid settings are also too elevated. They do need it. I've posted some examples before in both 6 SE theads.
2. pads. tried 14, for me, angled, leather, no fenestration - and the best of that lot: DCA Ether Angled Lambskin; most balanced top to bottom and best soundstage width
3. Rear screens: off, or a very open hex pattern; cuts down false reverb heard in wood blocks and finger snaps easily
4. cable, the stock cable is actually dreck, no need for big bucks, just O2 free and thicker than 24 ga. DIY - or if bought - Custom Cans
5. fuzzor mod: the front facing stators are not as large in the OG or 500, which this mod is #1, but there are still cancellations and reflections that are amusical

 

[jsmiller58]

I'm still rolling stock with mine. I have new grills, but I haven't installed them yet because I really like how it sounds as-is. I am using a Norne Vygarde cable, and I did put a headband sweater on it - the latter was more for protection than anything else.

What new grills do you have?

 

[PeteDzi]

The driver of the HE-6 SE is excellent, however much of the rest of is: ad hoc/cheap/hap hazard IMO.

My mods cribbed from the SBAF/HF crew of the 2012-15 era, plus my own:

1. Parametric EQ, - but if you want it accurate to music and not fashion, ignore the settings of crinicle under 100 Hz, and the upper mid settings are also too elevated. They do need it. I've posted some examples before in both 6 SE theads.
2. pads. tried 14, for me, angled, leather, no fenestration - and the best of that lot: DCA Ether Angled Lambskin; most balanced top to bottom and best soundstage width
3. Rear screens: off, or a very open hex pattern; cuts down false reverb heard in wood blocks and finger snaps easily
4. cable, the stock cable is actually dreck, no need for big bucks, just O2 free and thicker than 24 ga. DIY - or if bought - Custom Cans
5. fuzzor mod: the front facing stators are not as large in the OG or 500, which this mod is #1, but there are still cancellations and reflections that are amusical

I thought of doing the fuzzor mod for quite some time. But have not managed to get round to it yet.
What is the best material for this? And is the difference obvious?

For me the grills mod did give obvious benefits, and I replaced the grills with my own 3d printed sparse hexagonal pattern grills.

I also replaced the cable, for ergonomic reasons, i am not a great believer in audible benefits of cable, but the HM cable is so awful ergonomically, that it had to go. I have a pretty weaved cable that stays where you put it. it cost $50

Regarding PEQ, I tried various EQ settings from Oratory1990, Crinacle, and various other posts in this and other forums, I eventually tweaked them to came up with my own version, which i still keep fiddling with. For those that want to try, here it is:

F=80Hz; Q=0.5; G=9dB shelf
F=680Hz; Q=1.5; G=-1.5dB peak
F=1800Hz; Q=1; G=5dB peak
F=3800Hz; Q=2; G=-3dB peak
F=8200Hz; Q=2; G=2dB peak

I can't claim that this is correct. All I can say that this sounds pleasing to my decrepit 50 year old ears.

I use stock pads. I tried somebody's suggestion of some fat AliExpress pads, but i didn't get on with them and went back to stock. I am yet to try any premium pads, such as DCA angled lambskin ones someone suggested a few posts back. I think I will play with premium pads in the future.

 

[bagwell359]

I thought of doing the fuzzor mod for quite some time. But have not managed to get round to it yet.
What is the best material for this? And is the difference obvious?

Glaringly obvious with the 500 and OG 6. Still an improvement with the 6 SE - use excellent recordings you know well to demo. Sticky side felt, can't be too thick. I have 3 types. I think they are 1, 2,, 3 MM. Too thick would get in the way of direct sound, too thin might not cover enough FR. It's important that it is cut so none of it protrudes over the stators in the way of direct sound. The best set up I've seen was with medium thick, and they actually shaped/tapered the felt at the edges - too much work for me.

For me the grills mod did give obvious benefits, and I replaced the grills with my own 3d printed sparse hexagonal pattern grills.

Yeah I used even more open stuff, but it was metal with sharp edges, and it worried me, so I went naked and never looked back - but I have no little ones or cats either.

I also replaced the cable, for ergonomic reasons, i am not a great believer in audible benefits of cable, but the HM cable is so awful ergonomically, that it had to go. I have a pretty weaved cable that stays where you put it. it cost $50

I went from 1995-2019 not believing in cable differences of any sort as long as they were well constructed. Even brands like DCA and Audeze seem up to the task, but, the cables HFM has made and continues to make are not only sometimes klanky to use, they sound like rubbish too - on direct blind AB testing, not sure how rotten the process has to be to get that result.

Regarding PEQ, I tried various EQ settings from Oratory1990, Crinacle, and various other posts in this and other forums, I eventually tweaked them to came up with my own version, which i still keep fiddling with. For those that want to try, here it is:

F=80Hz; Q=0.5; G=9dB shelf
F=680Hz; Q=1.5; G=-1.5dB peak
F=1800Hz; Q=1; G=5dB peak
F=3800Hz; Q=2; G=-3dB peak
F=8200Hz; Q=2; G=2dB peak

Fiddling is key. Our tastes are different however. I use bass shelves - a +1.6 at 76, Q 1.1, and a +2.6 at 38 Hz Q1 I also use +3.4 db at 1850 Hz, Q of 2.4, and a very narrow Q 8.2 at 9200 -3.4 db. Just my tastes, urge anyone that cares to try either sets and whatever it takes to get it to musical - not crinicle (I like the idea of it, but they actually use subjective opinions (I.E. like/tastes) and a bogus room bass formulae). Offer two graphs for everyone phone - accurate and tainted.

I can't claim that this is correct. All I can say that this sounds pleasing to my decrepit 50 year old ears.

My golden ears are more tarnished than that.. got 16 years on you.

I use stock pads. I tried somebody's suggestion of some fat AliExpress pads, but i didn't get on with them and went back to stock. I am yet to try any premium pads, such as DCA angled lambskin ones someone suggested a few posts back. I think I will play with premium pads in the future.

Only tried 2 Ali pads - 1 on the 6/500 and they blew chunks. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it is. Ersatz all the way.

 

[kadinh]

I’m wondering if I should save $800 and get a used v2 instead of the LCD-XC

 

[Shane D]

I’m wondering if I should save $800 and get a used v2 instead of the LCD-XC

I LOVE my V2's, but I wouldn't buy them used. I have been very lucky, but some have not.

 

[Andrew_WOT]

I’m wondering if I should save $800 and get a used v2 instead of the LCD-XC

Saving aside, I think LCD-X 2021 will make a new buyer happier.
As pointed above, He6SE has good drivers, but everything else is borderline junk. With pads, cable, different headband, grills, and most importantly potent amp, they are the best deal around (if you don't get pair with stuck drivers), but as out of the box package deal I'd pick LCD-X. While tunning is different, overall sound quality is comparable, and worth keeping both.

 

[PeteDzi]

Glaringly obvious with the 500 and OG 6. Still an improvement with the 6 SE - use excellent recordings you know well to demo. Sticky side felt, can't be too thick. I have 3 types. I think they are 1, 2,, 3 MM. Too thick would get in the way of direct sound, too thin might not cover enough FR. It's important that it is cut so none of it protrudes over the stators in the way of direct sound. The best set up I've seen was with medium thick, and they actually shaped/tapered the felt at the edges - too much work for me.

Yeah I used even more open stuff, but it was metal with sharp edges, and it worried me, so I went naked and never looked back - but I have no little ones or cats either.

I went from 1995-2019 not believing in cable differences of any sort as long as they were well constructed. Even brands like DCA and Audeze seem up to the task, but, the cables HFM has made and continues to make are not only sometimes klanky to use, they sound like rubbish too - on direct blind AB testing, not sure how rotten the process has to be to get that result.

Fiddling is key. Our tastes are different however. I use bass shelves - a +1.6 at 76, Q 1.1, and a +2.6 at 38 Hz Q1 I also use +3.4 db at 1850 Hz, Q of 2.4, and a very narrow Q 8.2 at 9200 -3.4 db. Just my tastes, urge anyone that cares to try either sets and whatever it takes to get it to musical - not crinicle (I like the idea of it, but they actually use subjective opinions (I.E. like/tastes) and a bogus room bass formulae). Offer two graphs for everyone phone - accurate and tainted.

My golden ears are more tarnished than that.. got 16 years on you.

Only tried 2 Ali pads - 1 on the 6/500 and they blew chunks. Just because it looks good doesn't mean it is. Ersatz all the way.

Super reply thanks.

I have also considered making actual fazors for the front of the driver. These could be designed and 3d printed, and to avoid permanent changes to the phone, 3d printed as a complete assembly with the ring that screws onto the driver, and retains the pads.
Or maybe made out of Sugru, and simply applied to the metal that seems to hold the magnets. I don't really want to make any non reversible changes though.
Sugru is a substance that is silicone based (i think) and similar inconsistency to blue-tac, but solidifies after 12 hours or so. Thereafter it retains good amount of elasticity. Think Silicone sealant, but much firmer.

I'm really unsure about the cross sectional shape of the fazor though. Perhaps there is something online, about the maths involved. Should it follow horn mouth maths? I don't know. The other way would be to 3d print loads of them, and try.

It would be useful to have some headphone measuring equipment, which I don't have at the moment.

 

[Delta9K]

What new grills do you have?

I have a set of the Arctic honeycombs in black. < https://www.arcticcables.com/ac-store/AC-Hifiman-Grill-Mod-p461014835 >

 

[Philimon]

I’m wondering if I should save $800 and get a used v2 instead of the LCD-XC

LCDXC signature appears to stray the most from Audeze house sound. Definitely hear before you buy.

Like others stated, HFM needs work and Id recommend buying only new for warranty purposes.

Audeze LCDX (not C) is more than competitive and I believe most would prefer (stock vs stock). The build quality difference is vast. The only caution towards Audeze is the weight. High sensitivy too is also an obstacle but can be overcome like HFM’s insensitivity.

 

[Philimon]

I am curious to compare v1 against v2. HFM store still sells v1 but Im not keen on buying at that price because I prefer the $400 (v2) price. I guess if you intend to replace the headband anyway then v1 isnt so bad a deal especially with v2 prices still not discounted back down to $400.

 

[dstarr3]

I am curious to compare v1 against v2. HFM store still sells v1 but Im not keen on buying at that price because I prefer the $400 (v2) price. I guess if you intend to replace the headband anyway then v1 isnt so bad a deal especially with v2 prices still not discounted back down to $400.

It's my understanding that the v1s on the HFM store are refurbished with v2 drivers, so I'm not sure that would be a great way to compare

 

[theangelboy]

I made a classified post to try and sell some of my gear so I can get a HE6se or trade for one.

do you all keep everything stock or wind up going with a grill mod and ZMF or Dekoni pads? I was recommended a grill mod for the HE560 and have been very happy with it.

I know a lot of people have already weighed in, but I will throw my 2 cents in the pile as well.

I think most people (on this forum, at least) mod them in some way, but there definitely are those who keep it stock.

CABLE
The cable is ergonomically terrible. Build quality is also poor. My 1/4 plug is extremely loose/wobbly for instance. I won't comment on the sound since I have yet to hear a difference that cables have made. But do yourself a favor and get a better cable. There are a bajillion options out there at all price ranges. This is the only "mod" that I say is mandatory.

GRILLES
A smaller/subtler change that I can best describe as more "open" sounding. It's a mod that I don't really hear any downsides sonically from doing. Of course, running them naked will provide the largest effect but poses the biggest risk (metal objects and dust) and makes them harder to handle.

If it's only dust you are worried about you can stretch pantyhose over the opening and use the stock snap ring to secure it and trim the excess. As long as the pantyhose isn't too thick it should sound almost indistinguishable from naked (at least based on my testing), but has the same downsides as naked except the dust protection.

I, personally, have 3D printed grilles of my own design with pantyhose glued on the back. It will protect against large objects and dust and sounds more open than stock, but not as open as naked, but looks a lot nicer. A big reason I designed my own is for aesthetics, honestly. It looks better than stock or naked, IMO. According to my measurements it puts it at almost exactly halfway between naked vs stock in frequency response. Buying one the 3rd party grilles would have similar results, I would think.

HEADBAND
The headband is going to be a head shape thing. It gives some people (like me) hot spots. Some solve this with Dekoni Nuggets or zipper/velcro/snap on padding. I solved my issue with a DIY suspension strap. Some replace the headband altogether (for aesthetics, comfort or both). But, if you thought the comfort of your 560 v4 was alright you should be fine unless the headband in combination with the added weight is bothersome to you (the 6se is quite a bit heavier).

PADS
Pads are interesting on the 6se because of all of the headphones I have tried it is the most versatile when it comes to pad rolling. I've tried dozens of pads and there is a wide range of pad types that work well with it depending on what your preferences are. Oddly, the stock pads are one of the worst that I've tried, objectively speaking. It has the biggest dip from 1-3khz, the biggest dip at 5.5khz and is combined with one of the largest peaks at 9khz. Don't misunderstand, they still sound very good with the stock PeliPad, and still make most headphones envious, but it can be refined further IMO.

Velour is my material of choice. They sound the most open and punchy to me. The Hifiman Round Velour is probably the best one I've tried. Compared to stock it lessens the dip at 1-3khz and 5.5khz while also curbing the peak at 9khz.

Genuine leather (solid, I haven't tried any fenestrated) will generally have a bump at around 900hz-1.25khz but then drop down for the typical dip that the stock pad has (although not quite as deep) but will also not come back up at 4-5khz like the stock pad does giving a darker sound. All the leather pads I've tried also have a large dip at 7khz. Anyway, this is all a roundabout way of saying leather pads will sound very different. I don't really care for what these do to the sound myself, but it's definitely less a aggressive experience.

Hybrid pads will be more similar to the stock pad than most other options because a PeliPad is a hybrid. The FocusPad actually measures almost identically to the PeliPad, for example.

If you EQ it can be argued that pad choice matters less since dips and peaks can be adjusted if you know where they are either by ear or measurement. I don't often EQ outside of 4db bass shelf, so I've spent a lot of time trying different pads (that's more fun to me, anyway). Because I have been burned very badly buying pricy "name brand" pads (they were $70 and I HATED the sound on the headphone I bought them for [not the 6se]) so I said "never again." I pretty much only buy affordable options from places like AliExpress now. This allows me to try a bunch of different designs/materials/sizes and figure out what I like best (which is the only way to really know). There are some crappy ones, sure, but I've bought some that you could tell me came from a name brand and cost $80 and I would believe you since they look and sound as such.

Anyway, I hope that gives you an idea of some options if you decide to mod once you buy.

 

[Philimon]

It's my understanding that the v1s on the HFM store are refurbished with v2 drivers, so I'm not sure that would be a great way to compare

Oof. Did HFM ever say what was the difference between v1 and v2 drivers or why they updated? I dont trust HFM but still curious. This could become 4-screw vs 6-screw all over again.