[arielext]

V2 or. V1?

V1. Yokes were 2 different sets of Edition x v2.

 

[bagwell359]

V1. Yokes were 2 different sets of Edition x v2.

Hmmm. That bites. I read that some had serious FR issues (thought mine did, but it was a VAC issue). Its been 4 years. It gets the most use.

HE-6 SE v1 40%
HE-500 25%
HD-600 on BHCs 20%
HEX v2 15%

It's the most correct can I have. It's better than an unmodified HE-6 6 screw (except bass impact.

 

[Shungite Trillionaire]

HE-500 25%
HD-600 on BHCs 20%
HEX v2 15%

what about the 5LE?

 

[bagwell359]

what about the 5LE?

Nope just sitting in a box.

 

[Philimon]

IMG_6549

 

[The Third]

I have the opportunity to trade one of my HE-400's (I got two) and my HE-500 for a HE-6 (not sure which screw version), but I only have the SMSL SP200 Amp which can output 3W per channel @32ohms, so around 2 Watts per channel at the HE-6's 50ohm. Do you suspect the HE-6 will even sound better than the HE-500 on this setup, or is a better amp required?

 

[mab1376]

I got a new headband for my he-500, but 2 of the screws completely snapped, and I have no way to walk them out....help!

 

[Shungite Trillionaire]

Is there a big sonic difference between Focus and Focus A pads?

 

[Philimon]

I got a new headband for my he-500, but 2 of the screws completely snapped, and I have no way to walk them out....help!

Pics?
If you’re talking about the screws where they attach to cups then be careful as not to push those screws into the driver area. A screw could fall into the driver and mess up the diaphragm. You could line the drivers with tape (for example) for safety and for when you replace the screws.

See here for some possibly helpful relevant info.:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the...400-500-into-the-newstock-he-400i-560.790902/

 

[Philimon]

Tested impedance on HE500 drivers. I'm no pro. Looks reasonable?:
Driver 1 = 43.2
Driver 2 = 44.9

edit: looks reasonable
https://diyaudioheaven.wordpress.com/tutorials/how-to-interpret-graphs/impedance/
"More often than not there is also a slight variance in actual resistance value, even between left and right driver, so headphone A rated at 32Ω could very well be between 30Ω and 35Ω and may even differ slightly between left and right driver. This is nothing to worry about as long as the drivers sound equally loud."

 

[mab1376]

Pics?
If you’re talking about the screws where they attach to cups then be careful as not to push those screws into the driver area. A screw could fall into the driver and mess up the diaphragm. You could line the drivers with tape (for example) for safety and for when you replace the screws.

See here for some possibly helpful relevant info.:
https://www.head-fi.org/threads/the...400-500-into-the-newstock-he-400i-560.790902/

This one snapped below the lip of the grommet

This one snapped outside of the grommet but I can't grip it with pliers tight enough to spin it since the metal is too soft.

 

[Philimon]

Warning: Im no pro.

I think you should try googling tips on how to remove stuck screws. One method Ive seen is drilling the screw out which is what I would try. But Id also be extra safe by removing the drivers from the cups before going to work. Even if you cover the drivers in thick tape (for example) Id still be concerned I might stab the driver with the drill or worried some stray metal flakes might find their into the driver.

 

[bagwell359]

Put rugged tape inside the cup where the screws are. Two thick - but narrow pieces.

Clamp the cup face down, gently but firmly ( clamp should have tape, fur, whatever to keep the finish on cup from being damaged.

Get a precise drill with a very thin bit (micro screw and die kit) - about 30-50% of the diam of the screw. Drill but not to push through or destroy the screw. You want to back the screws out. The process will still create burrs. You want to cover the exposed side of the driver. I use saran wrap followed by painters tape. Unless you are an ultra klutz there is no danger of poking the Mylar.

Painstaking and will cost a few bucks but you are going to be good to go.

PS pliers smooth or with pattern (inner face)? Going at it with pliers aimed at screw? Go sideways. Lube base of screw? 2 drops, no aerosol. Turning right way?

 

[mab1376]

Put rugged tape inside the cup where the screws are. Two thick - but narrow pieces.

Clamp the cup face down, gently but firmly ( clamp should have tape, fur, whatever to keep the finish on cup from being damaged.

Get a precise drill with a very thin bit (micro screw and die kit) - about 30-50% of the diam of the screw. Drill but not to push through or destroy the screw. You want to back the screws out. The process will still create burrs. You want to cover the exposed side of the driver. I use saran wrap followed by painters tape. Unless you are an ultra klutz there is no danger of poking the Mylar.

Painstaking and will cost a few bucks but you are going to be good to go.

PS pliers smooth or with pattern (inner face)? Going at it with pliers aimed at screw? Go sideways. Lube base of screw? 2 drops, no aerosol. Turning right way?

I tried with patterned pliers and small vice grips but can't grip it tight enough, some lube way work. My father recommended a small reversed drill bit for the other. Good suggestions!

 

[Philimon]

Driver upgrade.