[Terja]

Quote:

I intend to rewire my stock HE-500 cable (silver) to XLR and build a "pigtail" for connection to a speaker amp (like the HE-6 cable). Could you please tell me the correct pin allocations for the XLR? Am I correct in assuming that the conductor connected to the central pin in the earcup connector is positive, and should be connected to the red speaker output?
 
Finally, I assume that I should use the 8 Ohm taps rather than the 4 Ohm ones......
 
The speaker amp in question is an 18W PSE 300B Opera Consonance Reference 5.5 Mk.II (see avatar!)

 
P.S. Yes to the bolded question. Use a multimeter to keep track of the wire types. Once you've identified the wire you can keep track by marking the wire using masking tape or something similar.

 

[CJG888]

XLR pins are already marked 1, 2, 3, 4 and should be connected as follows:

Pin 1 - Left positive (L + / Red - active)
Pin 2 - Left negative (L - / Black - ground)
Pin 3 - Right positive (R + / Red - active)
Pin 4 - Right negative (R - / Black - ground)

I'm not familiar with the specs of your amp. Check with the manufacturer if it's okay to connect a 38 ohm load via the speaker taps. Also if it's a tube amp, doing so without placing a dummy resistor load between the tube amp and the HP is not recommended. Solid state amps are an exception. Hope that helps.

I suppose I could use HiFiman's own connection box. Does it have an audible effect on the SQ?

 

[captouch]

I suppose I could use HiFiman's own connection box. Does it have an audible effect on the SQ?

I've read that it does, and really doesn't seem worth the $99 or whatever they're charging for it.

Unless yours is a tube amp, shouldn't be an issue to just use speaker taps without a connection box.

 

[CJG888]

It is a tube amp. Maybe I should just stick to using my dedicated HPA....

I'd hate to burn the transformers out!

 

[captouch]

It is a tube amp. Maybe I should just stick to using my dedicated HPA....
I'd hate to burn the transformers out!

I think you can rig up your own resistor network to take care of this - that's all the Hifiman box is AFAIK.

Another option is to pick up a cheap old/vintage SS receiver or amp and use speaker taps out of that. I've picked up two late 70's receivers (Yamaha 15wpc and Kenwoof 60wpc) for an average of less than $50 each. But honestly, I think you can rig up the resistor network almost trivially yourself. Someone posted how to do this before, but can't find it ATM.

One way or the other, you should at least try the speaker tap experience.

 

[wuwhere]

The resistors inside the adapter box are 10ohms parallel and 25ohms in series. You can make your own by using a high-quality non-inducting 10 ohm resistors. The 25ohms is just for protection, its rated at 1/4w.

 

[Happy Camper]

There are many who don't use this resistor on ss amps in excess of 300watts pc. The point of the resistor is to bring the load down closer to what that amp would see. If you aren't maxing out the amp to get enough power to drive the HE, you don't "have" to use the resistors.

IMO

 

[hasanyuceer]

Can you suggest a brand for resistors?
 
Preferably a brand that can be found on ebay or somewhere.
Quote:

The resistors inside the adapter box are 10ohms parallel and 25ohms in series. You can make your own by using a high-quality non-inducting 10 ohm resistors. The 25ohms is just for protection, its rated at 1/4w.

 

[wuwhere]

Quote:

Can you suggest a brand for resistors?
 
Preferably a brand that can be found on ebay or somewhere.

 
You should be able to find non-inductive resistors anywhere
I use these http://www.parts-express.com/cat/non-inductive-resistors/1537?m=253

 

[hasanyuceer]

I am using the resistor trick right now but I am wondering if better resistors do any difference. I cant easily find resistors like Mills, Vishay etc in our country.
Quote:

 
You should be able to find non-inductive resistors anywhere
I use these http://www.parts-express.com/cat/non-inductive-resistors/1537?m=253

 

[rezolver]

At the center, my headband measures 2 inches.
Quote:

I just took my pad off and measured it. The pad measured 1 1/2inch at the center. My He500 headband measure 1/16th inch wider at the center. In my case they are for all practical purposes identical. That explains why, for me,  it fits like a glove exactly as shown in my photos. There must be some variation in Hifiman headbands than I am not aware of. 

 
Lugbug; my dominant genre's are rock (classic, current, metal, anything with guitars) and electronic music (mostly industrial and ambient) and these do both the genre's justice.  Having a good source has helped out a TON in the detail retrieval department.
Quote:

I haven't read about anyone re-sleeving the stock silver cable, but I have replaced it to better effect. I use a silver/copper one and it added a little more body to the mids and refinement at the top.
 
Pleased your enjoying them Rezolver, I am too a convert! (even sold my RS1's..)

 
Rebel, thank you for the link. The DT990 pads are quite popular. Main thing to take into account is to get pads that include the driver mesh, as the mesh is attached to the pads and not the ring on the HE-500's. *bookmarked*
Quote:

 
 
I'm using DT990 earpads on mine.
 
 
http://www.head-fi.org/t/572327/mission-replace-the-hifiman-ear-pads-with-other-brand-ear-pads

 
Terja; cable looks nice. What type of sleeving did you end up using?
Everything will fall into place once I find the right sleeving. Have you tried MDPC-X sleeving? The material used seems to be somewhat of a secret. I'm curious as to how malleable it is. Or whether its that "crunchy", plastic type.
Quote:

 
I re-sleeved my silver stock cable and also converted it to 4-pin XLR. There is a small thread going on HERE about sleeving the stock cable. Seems some people have had microphonic issues with the stock silver cable, something which I can't attest to. I simply sleeved mine because the cable seemed vulnerable and in need of additional protection. Here is a pic of my re-sleeved cable:
 

 

[wuwhere]

Quote:

I am using the resistor trick right now but I am wondering if better resistors do any difference. I cant easily find resistors like Mills, Vishay etc in our country.

 
I've read about Mills resistors used in crossover networks for speakers but that is a different application. I just happened to use them.
 
But, IMO, lesser known brands are just as good. I don't know which brand and the type of resistors the HiFiman adapter uses.
 
Do expensive resistors like Mundorf or Dueland make a difference? I have no idea, although I've thought about trying some Mundorf  m-resist supreme resistors.

 

[Yuceka]

For anyone who is looking for a good cable for their pair : http://www.head-fi.org/t/624895/6-ft-hifiman-cable-picture-is-in-the-ad

 

[Terja]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rezolver /img/forum/go_quote.gif
 
Terja; cable looks nice. What type of sleeving did you end up using?
Everything will fall into place once I find the right sleeving. Have you tried MDPC-X sleeving? The material used seems to be somewhat of a secret. I'm curious as to how malleable it is. Or whether its that "crunchy", plastic type.

 
I used techflex nylon sleeving. The stuff I used expands very nicely with a ratio of roughly 1:3 (from 1/4" to 3/4") and was easy to work with. Haven't tried MDPC-X sleeving but it looks very nice, much better than what I used. Can't say how expandable it is. From the small sleeving thread I discovered there are variable expansions for this stuff so I would check first to see if what you're getting is suitable, especially for going over the TRS end.

 

[CJG888]

Quote:

Quote:

It is a tube amp. Maybe I should just stick to using my dedicated HPA....
I'd hate to burn the transformers out!

I think you can rig up your own resistor network to take care of this - that's all the Hifiman box is AFAIK.

Another option is to pick up a cheap old/vintage SS receiver or amp and use speaker taps out of that. I've picked up two late 70's receivers (Yamaha 15wpc and Kenwoof 60wpc) for an average of less than $50 each. But honestly, I think you can rig up the resistor network almost trivially yourself. Someone posted how to do this before, but can't find it ATM.

One way or the other, you should at least try the speaker tap experience.

Is it worth trying a T-amp (connecting directly to the speaker terminals without resistors)? If so, which chip would be best - the 2020?