Yes, get these "6BQ5/EL84 Early Amperex white label type OEM, 1950s with "D" getter, Holland, USED" most of the way down the page. $99 for a matched pair, though used, I've had no problems with them. I went through about 10 pairs of EL84 tubes suggested in this thread when I first got mine, trying to get back some of the bass and body I had with the iCan Pro that I was used to. The Amperex did the trick and I had hesitated and tried all the others first because at $200 per pair it seemed way too much until I found these at half the price. Ultimately I spent way more than if I'd just gone directly to an unused pair of the Amperex. Having moved onto the Pendant SE, they're also my favorite EL84s in that amp too.
Ah, thanks awesome. Helps that you've gone down the path, spent the money and found out what works. Just a question, sort of like what @Mightygrey mentioned, do you think just getting a Schiit Loki that can add a slight boost in the bass shelf could achieve what I'm going for? I don't need any extra 3D, stage, layering - the stock SET amps do that just perfectly, what I find lacking in SET amps is just a bit more extra bass. And that way I could also turn it back to stock sound for stuff that doesn't need the bass boost.
Ah, thanks awesome. Helps that you've gone down the path, spent the money and found out what works. Just a question, sort of like what @Mightygrey mentioned, do you think just getting a Schiit Loki that can add a slight boost in the bass shelf could achieve what I'm going for? I don't need any extra 3D, stage, layering - the stock SET amps do that just perfectly, what I find lacking in SET amps is just a bit more extra bass. And that way I could also turn it back to stock sound for stuff that doesn't need the bass boost.
Before you go spending money on another box, what are you using as a source? A Mac/PC, or a phone? Try using a simple software-based EQ adjustment which will be far more accurate (and affordable) than having to buy an analogue device.
Ah, thanks awesome. Helps that you've gone down the path, spent the money and found out what works. Just a question, sort of like what @Mightygrey mentioned, do you think just getting a Schiit Loki that can add a slight boost in the bass shelf could achieve what I'm going for? I don't need any extra 3D, stage, layering - the stock SET amps do that just perfectly, what I find lacking in SET amps is just a bit more extra bass. And that way I could also turn it back to stock sound for stuff that doesn't need the bass boost.
http://www.audiotubes.com/6bq5.htm
Might have helped if I had pasted the link as I intended. Anyway, I'd say see if those tubes alone do it. I never bother using EQ and I agree may as well try software EQ first. The Amperex gave me some of the heft and body to the sound that was missing with other tubes.
Has anyone compared the Tuba to the Pathos Aurium? Different price point, hybrid amp, more powerful, etc. however i have read some reports that the Pathos can come across as soft and vague and hasn't taken off at all in terms of popularity...i'm just curious.
Has anyone compared the Tuba to the Pathos Aurium? Different price point, hybrid amp, more powerful, etc. however i have read some reports that the Pathos can come across as soft and vague and hasn't taken off at all in terms of popularity...i'm just curious.
I've paired a few different DACs with the Tuba over the past year....stacking is tricky
RME ADI 2 FS: The RME seemed to suck the soul out of the Tuba. Flawless in its execution, but counter-productive to timbre.
MHDT Orchid: With certain vocal tracks this can be a home-run. However, you need to know going in what you want to "extract" or you'll find the marriage too slow / unimpressive.
Aune X8: I found this little "magic" box to really perform with the Tuba. I rolled a Burson V6 OpAmp into the back. It sticks out a bit, but well worth the gain in soundstage / imaging. I use line-out, not variable to the Tuba.
Chord Qutest: Arriving next week.
Bifrost 2: Have not tried, but given my other experiences have a feeling this might do very well in pairing.
All of this depends on the Tubes rolled in (of course).
A few questions; the website specifies the output impedance as 5/35 ohm (LO/HI), however the first post of this thread states 16/32 ohm (LO/HI) and finally the manual that came with my unit states 14 ohm with no mention of LO/HI - strange since there are two headphone jacks. So which is which?
Also, how can i tell if the unit i purchased used has the cross-feed circuit enabled or disabled?
I would suggest sticking with the website/manual and be cautious when referencing old posts. Re: cross-feed, you could consider a) asking whomever you purchased the used Tuba if they had it enabled, b) email Jim as he is very responsive/kind, or c) listen and see if the music sounds cross-fed.
What headphones are you using? I always run my Focals on Lo, my Sennheisers and ZMF on Hi.
I would suggest sticking with the website/manual and be cautious when referencing old posts. Re: cross-feed, you could consider a) asking whomever you purchased the used Tuba if they had it enabled, b) email Jim as he is very responsive/kind, or c) listen and see if the music sounds cross-fed.
What headphones are you using? I always run my Focals on Lo, my Sennheisers and ZMF on Hi.
As far as i know, only the early production units had the crossfeed enabled. Jim took out the crossfeed features in the subsequent bathes. Did you buy your tuba recently? direclty from Jim? If so, then the crossfeed feature should be disabled/ nonexistent.
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