[rb2013]

Just a reminder for those getting a new Breeze DU-U8.  Like all these USB bridges (and most equipment) they need some run in time for the caps and clock crystals to settle in.  Around 100-150 hrs of run time should do it.  This has been well documented here by many users.  After breakin the DU-U8 will be smoother and more open - with deeper, better defined bass.
 
I use a combination of music and Isotek burin tracks. http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/isotek/cd.html
 
On another note - I have been communicating with Breeze rep (builder?) Yang Wang about sending him some Cyrstek CCHD-957 clocks for factroy installation - he said no go.  Their factory is just too busy to do a custom install.
 
Looks like I might have to buy one of those expensive hot air gun solders - needed for a delicate SMD mounting job.
 
Cheers!

 

[stuartmc]

  Just a reminder for those getting a new Breeze DU-U8.  Like all these USB bridges (and most equipment) they need some run in time for the caps and clock crystals to settle in.  Around 100-150 hrs of run time should do it.  This has been well documented here by many users.  After breakin the DU-U8 will be smoother and more open - with deeper, better defined bass.
 
I use a combination of music and Isotek burin tracks. http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/isotek/cd.html
 
On another note - I have been communicating with Breeze rep (builder?) Yang Wang about sending him some Cyrstek CCHD-957 clocks for factroy installation - he said no go.  Their factory is just too busy to do a custom install.
 
Looks like I might have to buy one of those expensive hot air gun solders - needed for a delicate SMD mounting job.
 
Cheers!

That's a bummer, but I guess it's expected with a busy operation.  I take my hat off to anyone willing to do the SMD  desolder/re-solder work. I just don't have the eyesight or patience to do it.  
 
This was one of several reasons I was willing to take the risk on the Tanly DDC.  I saw an excellent design (very similar to Berkeley) with Crysteks, good power regulation, galvanic isolation  and I2S over hdmi. I wasn't disappointed.  The Tanly also has a standard IEC power connection, so I could use the extensive filtering I already have and I could play with the many high-end power cords on hand to tune the sound to my taste. I too was very surprised by the improved sound with the right cord. In my case it was the Analysis-Plus Silver Power Oval. I even had fun playing with a few different power fuses.

 

[rb2013]

That's a bummer, but I guess it's expected with a busy operation.  I take my hat off to anyone willing to do the SMD  desolder/re-solder work. I just don't have the eyesight or patience to do it.  

This was one of several reasons I was willing to take the risk on the Tanly DDC.  I saw an excellent design (very similar to Berkeley) with Crysteks, good power regulation, galvanic isolation  and I2S over hdmi. I wasn't disappointed.  The Tanly also has a standard IEC power connection, so I could use the extensive filtering I already have and I could play with the many high-end power cords on hand to tune the sound to my taste. I too was very surprised by the improved sound with the right cord. In my case it was the Analysis-Plus Silver Power Oval. I even had fun playing with a few different power fuses.

The Tanly is definitely a beautiful design. I'll make low temp soldering my next technical adventure, like anything a little practice goes a long way.

Well score two for the Cerious Graphen Extreme low current. Just got the second one today. This time using it on the APL NWOjr DAC on the main system. All I can say is Wow!

This time replacing the very good Synergistic Research Ref X2 Active with a Galeaio MPC. Tough comparison...cold out of box the Cerious just amazing. Bass lines now even deeper and the definition! Wider and deeper sound staging, more organic quality, silky smooth, great detail. This is really blowing me away, how just a power cord can make such a difference.

He must run these on cable burner, never had a cable so good out of the box. The one on DU-U8 has gotten better with run time. Can't wait to hear this in a week or two.

I want to get two more for the office system, but wifey would kill me.:rolleyes: Maybe in Jan.

How much do they give you for blood donations?

 

[GCTD]

Since where all about cleaning up the signal in the chain with all the cable discussion and what not, I'd like to add Noise Stopper Caps for RCA and XLR for this. There's one by AudioQuest and Cardas, but Apollo AV, Inc. has these caps for a much more affordable price, it has Teflon insulation and it's Nickle (or Gold) plated.
 




 
P.S.: I decided to get this since Gustard U12 and Gustard DAC-X12 USB doesn't come factory with it.

 

[Triplefun]

Rather than buying expensive cables has anyone tried just hardwiring the DAC to the preamp using shortest run cables possible. When you look inside the devices you see simple cables linking the various internal elements. But then you want to spend big dollars linking components. I would have thought the biggest issue would be the quality of the connectors. So why not just hardwire the components and bypass the connectors.

 

[rb2013]

  Since where all about cleaning up the signal in the chain with all the cable discussion and what not, I'd like to add Noise Stopper Caps for RCA and XLR for this. There's one by AudioQuest and Cardas, but Apollo AV, Inc. has these caps for a much more affordable price, it has Teflon insulation and it's Nickle (or Gold) plated.
 




 
P.S.: I decided to get this since Gustard U12 and Gustard DAC-X12 USB doesn't come factory with it.

I have those on my empty rca inputs on my amps - Cardas ones I believe.
 

  Rather than buying expensive cables has anyone tried just hardwiring the DAC to the preamp using shortest run cables possible. When you look inside the devices you see simple cables linking the various internal elements. But then you want to spend big dollars linking components. I would have thought the biggest issue would be the quality of the connectors. So why not just hardwire the components and bypass the connectors.

That would work but limit flexiblity - for example in one system the Regen/LPS and a Remedy/LPS worked great (with my DAC60), but not in my other system.  The Regen actually hurt the sound and the Remedy was just so small a difference no justify the cost.  I suppose after you decide on your final configuration you could just hard wire it.  But attention to RFI/Emi shielding and the use of high quality wire - your probably back to where you would be with a plug and play solution.

 

[rb2013]

A lot has been going back and forth about 'capacitive coupling' with the power leads and data leads within the USB A connector plugged into the PC- over on the Regen thread.
According to Alex at Uptone this a major problem, that even a split USB cable doesn't solve (or the Regen!).  Much has been said about the elusive SBooster VBUS isolator - and it sonic benefits (decouples at the receiving end of the USB cable).  But are almost impossible to buy in the US.
 
So I thought - since the DU-U8 doesn't need any USB power  - why not turn the AQ Jitterbug into a VBUS +5VDC blocker as well.
 
So I popped it open and clipped the 1 lead with my micro wire clutters - the results are positive!
 
So now my Jitterbug is a VBUS blocker as well and it cost $0!

 

[GCTD]

A lot has been going back and forth about 'capacitive coupling' with the power leads and data leads within the USB A connector plugged into the PC- over on the Regen thread.
According to Alex at Uptone this a major problem, that even a split USB cable doesn't solve (or the Regen!).  Much has been said about the elusive SBooster VBUS isolator - and it sonic benefits (decouples at the receiving end of the USB cable).  But are almost impossible to buy in the US.

So I thought - since the DU-U8 doesn't need any USB power  - why not turn the AQ Jitterbug into a VBUS +5VDC blocker as well.

So I popped it open and clipped the 1 lead with my micro wire clutters - the results are positive!

So now my Jitterbug is a VBUS blocker as well and it cost $0!

Can this mod be done if Wyrd USB Decrapifier is in the chain?

 

[stuartmc]

  A lot has been going back and forth about 'capacitive coupling' with the power leads and data leads within the USB A connector plugged into the PC- over on the Regen thread.
According to Alex at Uptone this a major problem, that even a split USB cable doesn't solve (or the Regen!).  Much has been said about the elusive SBooster VBUS isolator - and it sonic benefits (decouples at the receiving end of the USB cable).  But are almost impossible to buy in the US.
 
So I thought - since the DU-U8 doesn't need any USB power  - why not turn the AQ Jitterbug into a VBUS +5VDC blocker as well.
 
So I popped it open and clipped the 1 lead with my micro wire clutters - the results are positive!
 
So now my Jitterbug is a VBUS blocker as well and it cost $0!

Wonderful hack.  I'm assuming that my Tanly doesn't need Vbus either. I'll block it with electrical tape first and then give it the snip if it works.

 

[rb2013]

Can this mod be done if Wyrd USB Decrapifier is in the chain?

I can't see why not - does the Wyrd need USB power?  It works great with the Regen.  Will try the other JB I have between the PC and Regen - also after the Regen.
 

  Wonderful hack.  I'm assuming that my Tanly doesn't need Vbus either. I'll block it with electrical tape first and then give it the snip if it works.

Soem DDC's like the Gustard need a USB power handshake to activate a relay inside.  Don't know if the Tanly does.

 

[rb2013]

Ok tried my modded Jitterbug VBUS blocker on the main system tonight - nice, subtile but an improvement. Greater clarity and a touch more bass impact. So added the second unmodded JB to an adjacent USB port, another subtile improvement. Greater organic-ness.

Now I have to get a 3rd JB - one I'll mod to go back into the office system.

The 2nd Cerious Graphen low current is burning in nicely, a bit fuller tonight. Just ordered my 3rd one. The kind fellow at Cerious honoring the 50% discount from Audiogon Black Friday. So $250 vs $500 list. Without a doubt the best $250 power cord I ever heard. The SR X series up on Audiogon, anybody need a near 8ft top power cable?

 

[nel1s]

I'm at a loss - can't get the U8 to work. Running windows 7 here and drivers seem to have installed fine (v2.26), audio playback seems to be ok - see screenshot below. Running a USB cable to the U8, then a Van Damme AES cable to my Genelec speaker.  So, this may not be an issue with the U8: but since I have no alternative way of testing the speaker at present I'd like to exclude any problems with the U8 first. Any ideas for trouble shooting?  
 

 

[GCTD]

  I'm at a loss - can't get the U8 to work. Running windows 7 here and drivers seem to have installed fine (v2.26), audio playback seems to be ok - see screenshot below. Running a USB cable to the U8, then a Van Damme AES cable to my Genelec speaker.  So, this may not be an issue with the U8: but since I have no alternative way of testing the speaker at present I'd like to exclude any problems with the U8 first. Any ideas for trouble shooting?  
 

 
You have to connect the U12 to a dac.

 

[nel1s]

   
You have to connect the U12 to a dac.

 
Yep I do this - it's a Genelec 8351a speaker with AES/EBU input that leads to its integrated DAC.

 

[rb2013]

  I'm at a loss - can't get the U8 to work. Running windows 7 here and drivers seem to have installed fine (v2.26), audio playback seems to be ok - see screenshot below. Running a USB cable to the U8, then a Van Damme AES cable to my Genelec speaker.  So, this may not be an issue with the U8: but since I have no alternative way of testing the speaker at present I'd like to exclude any problems with the U8 first. Any ideas for trouble shooting?  
 

Try the 2.24V driver - the 2.26 can be bauky on some Win machines.  First try a SPDIF cable.