GUSTARD H10 High-current Discrete Class A output Stage Headphone Amplifier
Jan 15, 2016 at 3:24 PM Post #4,171 of 5,552
  Well sadly I didn't check to see if I had the correct size keys before buying the V5s so now I have to wait for the keys to arrive later on. You know, I could experiment for you. Since I have both singles and duals I could only install the singles for the first 100hrs then give my impressions. Then I could install the duals and test what the duals add to the whole set up. Sound good?

 
  My experiences, so far, with fitting some Burson V5S single discrete op-amps.
Gustard H10 (with v.approx 150hrs use)-
 
Fitting:
Tools used - 2 x Allen (hexagonal) keys (2mm & 2.5mm (I think)) + Wife's tweezers (Don't tell her!)
 
 

 
The plastic op-amp case appears to have done its job!
 
 

 

 

 
Top plate removed, to reveal output (single) integrated op-amp's location.
 
 

 
Integrated op-amps removed.
 
I used metal tweezers, hooking the pincers underneath the ends of the op-amp. This risked doing some damage, but it's most important to use a gentle wiggling motion, and make sure that they lift out as straight as possible, to avoid jamming. (Lifting the amp lid, was more difficult! (The amp hadn't been powered up since the previous day.)).
 
 

 
An op-amp socket. (Notice the U-shaped recess, towards the top. This indicates the op-amp orientation.)
 
 

 
A V5S (wonkily) in place. (Just visible is its U-shaped groove).
 
 

 
V5's pushed easily into place.
 

 
Ready to go!!!
 
Other kit-
Source: QLS QA550 SD card transport, feeding a Cambridge Audio vintage DAC (both heavily modified). Connected to the H10 via Missing Link Alaqia 0.5m cable.
'Phones: Audeze LCD2f (with CAT 5 DIY headphone cable).
 
Music- Various tracks: Mostly Electronica, but some mainstream rock/pop, including live recordings.
 
 
What difference(s) did I hear?
 
--------
 
Listening notes-
 
2-3 hours:
 
mid-centric, more 'throat' to vocals,
wider sound stage or spread out?, still good image
treble- same extension; no clearer, but more realism/energy,
bass- maybe fuller upper or less deep bass,
 
6 hours:
treble- settled- more natural
bass- fuller, more low end
 
7hrs: bass- much more present, more ext.
 
30-40 hrs:
clean, fast sound
bass-  punchy, articulate but full
starting to have realistic experiences (not sure if recording or external sound)
treble- still slightly uneven.
 
---------
 
So yes, an obvious change. But what exactly that change is (what's happening to what part of the frequency spectrum, that's causing the perceived differences), is difficult to characterise; such as at a particular freq. I can't say that there's a particular difference, even at the freq extremes, such as an extended bandwidth, like other members have mentioned. Maybe there's more treble, but I would have to do swabbing and re-swabbing to know, for sure. So, I'm afraid that my description is only of a limited scope.
 
What I've found that they do is 2 things:
 
1. Soundstage: the most obvious difference, for me, was a large increase in breadth of soundstage and space between instruments/performers; what was more centralised (in my head), is now more spread out. The instruments that were playing to one side, but still in-between my ears, have moved more out to the 'phones diaphragm region. And what was a little stuck in the diaphragm area (a weakness of planar 'phones), is now making a more successful effort at breaking into the free space around my head (as opposed to the plentiful, free and unused space, inside of it). This perceived increase in soundstage has occurred with no loss of focus, or solidity, to each instrument/performer; in fact, maybe the opposite; the performers seem to be more defined within the space that they occupy.
This change is the most obvious, and was so, right from the first moment of listening.
 
2. This is the bit that's hard (for me) to quantify; I feel like I'm only able to say "Err....umm....well,.... i'it just sounds...(cue: nonplussed shaking of head, whilst brain attempts to find concise and informative description).......better.".
I'm used to being able to get a pretty good idea of what aspect(s) of the sound has changed, when swapping bits of equipment. But with these op-amps, all I can really say is that the whole audio spectrum seems to have taken on more focus; the treble is clearer (and maybe more extended), and this phenomenon extends all the way down through the frequency range, into the bass.
 
I can't, for sure, say that the bass has more extension (goes deeper); sometimes I think so, but other times I think there's less bass. I can only put this down to increased focus; the bass is more accurate than before; maybe, previously unnoticed bass bloat has been reduced. Whilst the bass, that is present, has taken on more articulation and resolution; more character; the characteristics of the instrument that's creating it.
 
Some have mentioned more body (This is what really piqued my curiosity). Whilst I'm still not getting the fullness, weight and solidity, with my lcd2f, that I desire, vocals, such as Beck's in 'Sea Change', do seem to have more 'throat'. So, I guess that there is more 'body'. And something like Krist Novoselic's big acoustic guitar (in Nirvana Unplugged) does now sound like it's back on the stage, rather than sounding like it's located in another room. Although, it still sounds a little small or distant. And Dave's drum kit (softer 'acoustic' sticks noted) still sounds a bit like a toy. But as I say, this may be more of a reference to my personal preference, and current 'phones, rather than the H10 with the V5S.
 
 
To summarise, the V5S does increase all detail resolution and, very noticeably, improve the realism and naturalness of the sound (surely these are quite high up on the list of what high fidelity music reproduction is about). So I think that, even with just 30-40 hours burn-in (Burson recommend 100), the fitting of some Burson V5S's moves the H10 up another category in performance.
 
 

 
What to put in these dual op-amp slots?
 
Whilst I'm happy with the improvements of the singles, I don't fancy paying twice the price for the fraction of an improvement that the dual op-amps offer (when compared to the singles). I guess that I'll wait and observe the feedback of others who have experimented with the duals vs other good dual op-amp integrated chips.
popcorn.gif
 
 
I'll periodically post any updates here. (I'm not sure if there's another change already; I must have hit the 50 hour mark! 
biggrin.gif
)

 
Where can I buy just the pair of singles and how much? I checked Burson's site and I cannot find a link to buy.
 
Jan 15, 2016 at 3:38 PM Post #4,172 of 5,552
You can buy it from: 
 
1. http://www.bursonaudio.com/products/supreme-sound-opamp-v5/
2. http://www.ebay.com/itm/V5-Single-SS-discrete-Opamp-x-2-beat-OPA627-AD811-AD844-OPA604-AD8610-AD797-LME-/111830956085?hash=item1a09a4f835:g:xf_eek:zoAAOSwWnFWChi9
 
Jan 15, 2016 at 4:25 PM Post #4,173 of 5,552
So has anyone compared full boat burson h10 to the audio gd nfb1amp. People are saying on the dac19 thread that the LC is better than the nfb1amp.
 
Jan 15, 2016 at 5:19 PM Post #4,175 of 5,552
So has anyone compared full boat burson h10 to the audio gd nfb1amp. People are saying on the dac19 thread that the LC is better than the nfb1amp.

 
To me the Burson H10 edges out the LC.  One local listener agrees with me, one says the LC is total crap (strongly hates thin vocals) and a third has the LC edging out the H10 because it seems he like more treble energy and presence.  So 3/4 in favor of the Burson H10 over the LC therefor the Burson H10 should be better than the NFB1.
wink_face.gif

 
Jan 15, 2016 at 5:43 PM Post #4,176 of 5,552
So has anyone compared full boat burson h10 to the audio gd nfb1amp. People are saying on the dac19 thread that the LC is better than the nfb1amp.

 
I do not have Audio GD nfb1 amp, but I have its previous version. The following is under the assumption that the new version of Audiog DG's amp is not revolutionary. 
 
1. Using the Audio GD as a unbalanced amp, it sounds a little thin, not as warm and rich a H10 even without Burson opamp. With Burson's opamp, H10 is even better. Asked to choose one, I would probably always choose H10.
2. Using the Audio GD as a balanced amp, it will be difficulty for me to decide which one I prefer to listen even though these two amps do have different sound signatures.
 
Jan 15, 2016 at 6:46 PM Post #4,177 of 5,552
Today I received Gustard H10 220v. Unfortunately upon pressing the power button I can hear buzzing sound from the transformer.
On the back it is 220V version and this is what I need, I live in Europe.
Do you think it is possible they sent me 110v version? It can play music but I'm afraid to use it and the buzzing sound is unacceptable to me.
I guess I will need to take it apart and check the voltage switch.
 
Jan 15, 2016 at 6:53 PM Post #4,178 of 5,552
Today I received Gustard H10 220v. Unfortunately upon pressing the power button I can hear buzzing sound from the transformer.
On the back it is 220V version and this is what I need, I live in Europe.
Do you think it is possible they sent me 110v version? It can play music but I'm afraid to use it and the buzzing sound is unacceptable to me.
I guess I will need to take it apart and check the voltage switch.


Pop the cover off and check the switch.
 
Jan 15, 2016 at 7:48 PM Post #4,179 of 5,552
  Today I received Gustard H10 220v. Unfortunately upon pressing the power button I can hear buzzing sound from the transformer.
On the back it is 220V version and this is what I need, I live in Europe.
Do you think it is possible they sent me 110v version? It can play music but I'm afraid to use it and the buzzing sound is unacceptable to me.
I guess I will need to take it apart and check the voltage switch.

 
This amp has switch with marks for choosing either 110V or 220V. Open the case and find which position that switch is set to. 
 
Jan 15, 2016 at 10:20 PM Post #4,180 of 5,552
  Well sadly I didn't check to see if I had the correct size keys before buying the V5s so now I have to wait for the keys to arrive later on. You know, I could experiment for you. Since I have both singles and duals I could only install the singles for the first 100hrs then give my impressions. Then I could install the duals and test what the duals add to the whole set up. Sound good?

 
Well that looks like a Supreme plan, to me (and I'm sure that there are a few others who'd agree!). The only question is: 'Do you have the willpower?'; will you be able to resist the urge, to install the duals, for a whole 100hrs of listening (burn-in) time? With the knowledge that there they are, just sitting there, calling to you "Don't forget us.......!!"
 
Well, I hope that you have a stronger will than I probably would; it'd be very helpful to get as many 'takes' on what the dual bursons bring to the table, especially when compared, directly, to the singles!
popcorn.gif
popcorn.gif
popcorn.gif

 
Good luck with the keys! (As others have said, the screws are pretty tightly.....screwed; you'll definitely need the correct tool to 'crack' them open. Then, probably the fiddliest part of the job, is moving the lid out and into place; it's a very tight clearance!)
 
----------
 
P.S. Thanks all for the appreciation of my V5S installation & impressions post. I can certainly say that it was inspired by the work of others.
 
Jan 16, 2016 at 8:09 AM Post #4,181 of 5,552
I took it apart and I can see 110V inscriptions next to the voltage switches . So I guess I need to push the switches so 220v inscriptions are visible? Or maybe the covered value is correct one after all? I don't know what logic chinese people use here.
 
Jan 16, 2016 at 9:16 AM Post #4,182 of 5,552
If it shows 110V it is 110V...220V is 220V, there is no other logic than that. However, it's sad that so many people are having a simple problem like this which can be detrimental to the amp with such a little mistake during QC process. IMO, QC needs serious improvement. Looks like opening the chassis to check voltage is a must for new ones.
 
Jan 16, 2016 at 10:14 AM Post #4,183 of 5,552
  I took it apart and I can see 110V inscriptions next to the voltage switches . So I guess I need to push the switches so 220v inscriptions are visible? Or maybe the covered value is correct one after all? I don't know what logic chinese people use here.

 
If the label on the outside of the case say 220V but the position of the switch inside is 110V, then the manufacture made a mistake. Plugging the amp configured in this way into a 220V outlet most probably has caused some damages to the amp. I suggest you to contact the store from which you bought the amp about this issue as soon as possible. 
 
As a matter of fact, someone has reported this mistake on massdrop's forum:
 
https://www.massdrop.com/buy/gustard-h10/talk
 
Jan 16, 2016 at 10:16 AM Post #4,184 of 5,552
I changed the voltage switches, turned it on and... nothing :frowning2:
The green power light is on but it's not working. It's not buzzing anymore but there is no sound from the headphones either.
It probably got broken when I turned it on for the first time with wrong position of voltage switch :frowning2:
just great...
 
Jan 16, 2016 at 10:31 AM Post #4,185 of 5,552
I bought it on Massdrop in November and I arranged shipping to Poland via cargo ship. I took 7 weeks until I got it.
Do you think it can be eaisly repaired? I don't want to send it to China or to Massdrop in USA. It will take ages, it will cost a lot and customs officials may stop it and charge me even more...
*** it! why did I buy it? :frowning2:
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top