[Davidv100]

This is a UK plug with a fuse in the socket. Most of it has a 13A fuse in it.

Actually, I find this question very interesting. I have always wondered too whether the best SQ fuse is actually no fuse. If the answer is “no, some fuses are even better than no fuse”, then we have a serious snake-oil issue, I guess (except for legal security reasons - but honestly who has already blown a fuse in hifi gear, if not by spilling a full coffee on the unit - in which case it is probably toast anyway).


Interesting thread.

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

Maybe should add on the thread title -> "...AND OTHERS"

 

[vvume]

Actually, I find this question very interesting. I have always wondered too whether the best SQ fuse is actually no fuse. If the answer is “no, some fuses are even better than no fuse”, then we have a serious snake-oil issue.

I am not sure we should rush to that conclusion. Is it possible that the fuse material is helping streamlining the flow of electricity? Sounds crazy, but as someone with a mechanical engineering background, if you told me that laminar flows of water makes things better than turbulent flows at an entry point, it would make complete sense. Perhaps electricity behaves like fluid?

 

[OhmsClaw]

I am not sure we should rush to that conclusion. Is it possible that the fuse material is helping streamlining the flow of electricity? Sounds crazy, but as someone with a mechanical engineering background, if you told me that laminar flows of water makes things better than turbulent flows at an entry point, it would make complete sense. Perhaps electricity behaves like fluid?

Electricity does not "flow" like a fluid. The only analogs for "laminar flow" do not translate nor are they applicable for DC to AF frequencies i.e. transmission line theory for microwave components and terminations are negligible and not worth considering. Alternating Current transmission in general is treated as a near instantaneous field effect whereby actual electromotive displacement is MUCH slower than C (12 gage copper wire carrying 10A will move electrons 0.02cm/S or 1.2 IN a minute).

Cross sectional conductivity has been solved for materials considered while skin effect is not applicable for the thickness of a fuse element.

We are talking about a filament with power handling capabilities designed to be limited by its thermal limits to handle waste heat generated by current as a function of its characteristic impedance.

This is a fuse. Your components power supply has been designed to work with the rated input. You can not hack your way around giving something more current than it was designed for. This isn't a discussion about line ripple, high frequency SMPS pollution, leakage current for DC rectification, or unwanted harmonics from a step-down winding ratio, or a DC LPS which is out-of gas trying to supply adequate power to devices with a greater current draw than its capable of providing in a high performance time domain due to MOSFET depletion or inadequate capacitor time constants.

Exotic fuses are snake oil. Shorting a fuse receptacle is a hazard to users and components. Full stop.

A much more interesting and productive conversation is suggesting aftermarket power supplies, and whether or not companies like Ferrum purposefully designed their products to be gimped on the IEC plug side of the house vs their bespoke HYPSOS interface to upsell a $1000 PSU thus engineering a solution to a problem they created.

 

[AxelCloris]

[Mod comment]

As a reminder, this thread is for the Gustard DAC-R26, experiences with the DAC-R26, and pairings. Those who would like to discuss fuse mods for the DAC-R26 are welcome to do so here. Those who would like to discuss fuses in more general terms are welcome to start a new thread in the appropriate sub-forum or to join in any threads already related to the topic. Now let's please bring the discussion back to the DAC-R26. Thanks everyone.

 

[vvume]

Electricity does not "flow" like a fluid. The only analogs for "laminar flow" do not translate nor are they applicable for DC to AF frequencies i.e. transmission line theory for microwave components and terminations are negligible and not worth considering. Alternating Current transmission in general is treated as a near instantaneous field effect whereby actual electromotive displacement is MUCH slower than C (12 gage copper wire carrying 10A will move electrons 0.02cm/S or 1.2 IN a minute).

Cross sectional conductivity has been solved for materials considered while skin effect is not applicable for the thickness of a fuse element.

We are talking about a filament with power handling capabilities designed to be limited by its thermal limits to handle waste heat generated by current as a function of its characteristic impedance.

This is a fuse. Your components power supply has been designed to work with the rated input. You can not hack your way around giving something more current than it was designed for. This isn't a discussion about line ripple, high frequency SMPS pollution, leakage current for DC rectification, or unwanted harmonics from a step-down winding ratio, or a DC LPS which is out-of gas trying to supply adequate power to devices with a greater current draw than its capable of providing in a high performance time domain due to MOSFET depletion or inadequate capacitor time constants.

Exotic fuses are snake oil. Shorting a fuse receptacle is a hazard to users and components. Full stop.

A much more interesting and productive conversation is suggesting aftermarket power supplies, and whether or not companies like Ferrum purposefully designed their products to be gimped on the IEC plug side of the house vs their bespoke HYPSOS interface to upsell a $1000 PSU thus engineering a solution to a problem they created.

I'll admit I am not able to explain why my expensive Audio Magic M-1 fuse made such a big difference in my R26, but the difference is big - the extra micro details stands out very easily discernible without much effort and using poor recordings too. In fact, just changing the direction of the fuse makes it more painful to hear in one direction vs the other way even if it providing the same level of micro details.

The same fuse didn't seem to do much when used further upstream in an isolation transformer. In my preamp and amp it made them more refined. So results are not consistent and impact on sound quality varies.

 

[Jake2]

I'll admit I am not able to explain why my expensive Audio Magic M-1 fuse made such a big difference in my R26, but the difference is big - the extra micro details stands out very easily discernible without much effort and using poor recordings too. In fact, just changing the direction of the fuse makes it more painful to hear in one direction vs the other way even if it providing the same level of micro details.

The same fuse didn't seem to do much when used further upstream in an isolation transformer. In my preamp and amp it made them more refined. So results are not consistent and impact on sound quality varies.

In terms of the effect of the M-1 on the R26 is there any change beyond greater micro detail? IIRC I'd read about some benefits to the mids in terms of richness, weight?

 

[vvume]

In terms of the effect of the M-1 on the R26 is there any change beyond greater micro detail? IIRC I'd read about some benefits to the mids in terms of richness, weight?

The micro details and improved soundstage depth (holographicness) is what stood out prominently. It can be a double edged sword - in an already bright system it can be too much detail to handle. Thankfully, I have warm speakers (CSS 1TDX) but I am pushing things to the edge as I am using a Peachtree Gan400 for an amp. So I bought another M-1 fuse for the Peachtree which gave it the much needed refinement. Initially, I had the fuse with the V of the letter M on the fuse label pointing L-->R and for a week it felt a bit too sharp while I was hoping burn-in would smoothen the sharp edges. Finally, I switched directions and it instantly became smooth without any loss of detail. I don't trust any direction labels on the M-1 fuse - best to try both directions. It should not sound piercing. Its a fairly warm fuse unlike the Purple.

For context, I already had an external clock LHY OCK-2 hooked up to the R26 which had made a significant impact on its own (far more impact than using Signxer SU-6 with I2S into the R26). I had previously been using the Gustard Nano Fuse, which to my ears had a very mild refinement and warmth. Then I tried the SR Purple, which seemed to improve upon things a bit more in SS depth (but just a tiny bit lean), but the M-1 was a stark improvement over the Purple. I could not believe (and still a bit dumbfounded) that a fuse can make this much of a difference.

 

[Jake2]

The micro details and improved soundstage depth (holographicness) is what stood out prominently. It can be a double edged sword - in an already bright system it can be too much detail to handle. Thankfully, I have warm speakers (CSS 1TDX) but I am pushing things to the edge as I am using a Peachtree Gan400 for an amp. So I bought another M-1 fuse for the Peachtree which gave it the much needed refinement. Initially, I had the fuse with the V of the letter M on the fuse label pointing L-->R and for a week it felt a bit too sharp while I was hoping burn-in would smoothen the sharp edges. Finally, I switched directions and it instantly became smooth without any loss of detail. I don't trust any direction labels on the M-1 fuse - best to try both directions. It should not sound piercing. Its a fairly warm fuse unlike the Purple.

For context, I already had an external clock LHY OCK-2 hooked up to the R26 which had made a significant impact on its own (far more impact than using Signxer SU-6 with I2S into the R26). I had previously been using the Gustard Nano Fuse, which to my ears had a very mild refinement and warmth. Then I tried the SR Purple, which seemed to improve upon things a bit more in SS depth (but just a tiny bit lean), but the M-1 was a stark improvement over the Purple. I could not believe (and still a bit dumbfounded) that a fuse can make this much of a difference.

Excellent write-up, thankyou.

 

[Faitoq]

Is there a way to broadcast all of my computer audio using Gustard's UPnP?

 

[Artistplant]

Hi, can you please describe step by step
1. How to check what firmware version is installed on R26?
2. How to update and which firmware?
3. How to update Tidal Connect (no roon version)?

I have moved from Lumin T3 with auto updating

Thanks a lot Friends

 

[mgsu]

Hi, can you please describe step by step
1. How to check what firmware version is installed on R26?
2. How to update and which firmware?
3. How to update Tidal Connect (no roon version)?

I have moved from Lumin T3 with auto updating

Thanks a lot Friends

Dont want to sound rude, but it is described in this thread already 10 times. Just use the search.

 

[Artistplant]

Do you think external streamer like Lumin u1 mini or Auralic G1 should be an upgrade vs internal streamer?

 

[mgsu]

Do you think external streamer like Lumin u1 mini or Auralic G1 should be an upgrade vs internal streamer?

It is a mixed bag. The majority here swear that the inernal streamer sounds better. Before you buy a streamer, check on the bottom screws of your device. If they are crazy tight, just loosen them. If they where crazy tight then you could notice an improvement after loosen them. By applying this tweak to my system it improved so much that i got rid of the external streamer because R26 own streamer sounds better now.

 

[vvume]

It is a mixed bag. The majority here swear that the inernal streamer sounds better. Before you buy a streamer, check on the bottom screws of your device. If they are crazy tight, just loosen them. If they where crazy tight then you could notice an improvement after loosen them. By applying this tweak to my system it improved so much that i got rid of the external streamer because R26 own streamer sounds better now.

Wow! This sounds very much like the Ares II "loosen screw" mod that I have come across before online. Can you describe how it sounds different? More relaxed, less fatiguing?

Otherwise, I agree that things like internal vs. external streamer can be a mixed bag. Just for kicks, I once tested Pixel 5 -> Wiim Pro (Chromecast) -> Bluesound NODE N130 (optical input) -> Singxer SU-6 (USB in) -> R26 (I2S) VS. Pixel 5 -> R26 (Bluetooth LDAC codec) and the LDAC Bluetooth won hands down.