GUSTARD DAC-R26 Balanced Decoder R2R+1Bit Dual Native Decoding Music Bridge

[Dandoudou]

I used the LB clock only for two days, then travelled away for a month.
So I forgot a few things about it.

1. Was it better to use a single output rather than two, or it does not matter?
2. Does it matter if I keep the antenna connected during its usage, after configuring it?
3. The red lights constantly blink. Does it matter?

 

[Jake2]

I used the LB clock only for two days, then travelled away for a month.
So I forgot a few things about it.

1. Was it better to use a single output rather than two, or it does not matter?
2. Does it matter if I keep the antenna connected during its usage, after configuring it?
3. The red lights constantly blink. Is that normal?

Here’s what I understand to be confirmed by @rodthebod
1. Single better I think
2. Doesn’t matter per Tony from Coherent but if you want to be safe remove it (I did)
3. Yes

I need to come back to testing this now I have an Ifi DC adaptor that fits it. I’ll be interested in your observations.

 

[Dandoudou]

3. Yes

I don't understand your answer. Should they blink when use the LB?

 

[Jake2]

I don't understand your answer. Should they blink when use the LB?

Yes I understand from my and others experience that it is normal, when output 2 is disabled, to have a constantly blinking light.

 

[Jake2]

The Eversolo has a built-in DAC. It can be used as a standalone streamer, and a streamer/DAC, like the R26.

Good correction, I guess the difference is in emphasis - Eversolo seem to have invested heavily in the streamer part of its design whereas with the R26 most of the investment is in the DAC - ladders + DSD 1 bit circuit, analogue section, digital part like K2 etc with a just a compact, simple but very good internal streamer section/board.

 

[welldonehd]

Hi @Jake2 . I've got the Ifi Lan silencer for 2 days. It works well which makes me a little bit surprised. Because i've been using the fiber isolation with Sonore Deluxe, Buffalo Gs2016 and SOTM N10h switch. And i had not expected that SQ is able to be better with Ifi Lan Silencer in my chain. The background is darker, and the soundstage is wider. However, the plastic cover of Ifi Silencer is quite poor. Have you tried to cover it with cooper tape or some shielding solutions? Maybe the SQ can get some improvements.

 

[Dandoudou]

Hi @Jake2 . I've got the Ifi Lan silencer for 2 days. It works well which makes me a little bit surprised. Because i've been using the fiber isolation with Sonore Deluxe, Buffalo Gs2016 and SOTM N10h switch. And i had not expected that SQ is able to be better with Ifi Lan Silencer in my chain. The background is darker, and the soundstage is wider. However, the plastic cover of Ifi Silencer is quite poor. Have you tried to cover it with cooper tape or some shielding solutions? Maybe the SQ can get some improvements.

Do you use iSilencer as a replacement of the optical isolation or with it as an additional device in the setup?

 

[Jake2]

Hi @Jake2 . I've got the Ifi Lan silencer for 2 days. It works well which makes me a little bit surprised. Because i've been using the fiber isolation with Sonore Deluxe, Buffalo Gs2016 and SOTM N10h switch. And i had not expected that SQ is able to be better with Ifi Lan Silencer in my chain. The background is darker, and the soundstage is wider. However, the plastic cover of Ifi Silencer is quite poor. Have you tried to cover it with cooper tape or some shielding solutions? Maybe the SQ can get some improvements.

It’s funny you ask as I have two iSilencers wrapped in copper tape which is also connected to the chassis of my SW-8 switch and then via wire to my QA grounding box. And yes, each thing makes a difference.

 

[welldonehd]

Do you use iSilencer as a replacement of the optical isolation or with it as an additional device in the setup?

It's an additional device, not the replacement of the fiber isolation.

 

[welldonehd]

It’s funny you ask as I have two iSilencers wrapped in copper tape which is also connected to the chassis of my SW-8 switch and then via wire to my QA grounding box. And yes, each thing makes a difference.

Can you show me some pictures of your connection? Anw, I'll follow to see how is going.

 

[Jake2]

Can you show me some pictures of your connection? Anw, I'll follow to see how is going.

I will later, it looks a bit rough and DIY... which is exactly what it is(!)...might beautify a little first!

Btw that is impressive that it improved on your network chain - that's some good gear! I'm glad someone else on here has now tried it also with great results. Do you have it after your last device (the SoTM switch) feeding the R26?

 

[welldonehd]

I will later, it looks a bit rough and DIY... which is exactly what it is(!)...might beautify a little first!

Btw that is impressive that it improved on your network chain - that's some good gear! I'm glad someone else on here has now tried it also with great results. Do you have it after your last device (the SoTM switch) feeding the R26?

My streaming chain is now Sonore Optical Deluxe->Fiber->Buffalo GS 2016 (Synology Nas attached)->Fiber->Sotm (plugged Ifi Silencer)->R26.

 

[DivinesGaming]

I'd be interested in what the inside of it looks like, Amazon reviews (the 3 star one) shows the case surrounding it isn't shielded at all, even though they say it is. That's odd, but fixable. What's the device doing exactly? Hm. Ordered to find out.

 

[Clivem2]

I’d want to add a foot under the iSilencer to reduce strain on the DAC’s socket…easy enough to do.

 

[rodthebod]

Yes I understand from my and others experience that it is normal, when output 2 is disabled, to have a constantly blinking light.

I used the LB clock only for two days, then travelled away for a month.
So I forgot a few things about it.

1. Was it better to use a single output rather than two, or it does not matter?
2. Does it matter if I keep the antenna connected during its usage, after configuring it?
3. The red lights constantly blink. Does it matter?

Etien

The LB clock LED blinks when there is no signal lock present and/or if the BNC output is unticked in the configuration software (recommended for output 2 if not being used)
I hope I am safe in saying that most of us are only using the LB reference clock for the R26 therefore only one output (output 1) is required.

Ideally, what you should have is output 1 activated in the config 'Leo Bodnar GPS Clock Configuration' software app on your PC or Mac. Deactivate/untick output 2 as it effects sound quality leaving it activated.

When first connecting the LB clock 2 red LED's for output 1 and 2 will blink showing they are in a disconnected or unlocked state.

Connect your PC or Mac via USB then give the GPS signal a chance to find a lock and you should see both indicators on the software app show green for positive satellite find. "GPS locked and PLL locked" should show green on the app and the output one red LED will be constantly on to show a lock. My antenna is a few meters away from a window in a basement so it can take up to 10-15mins depending on time of day to get a lock. (I will be ordering an extension SMA-SMA RG174 cable from Ali soon for a few euro)
Most people should get a lock within seconds being above ground and in better line of sight to the sky.

Once you have these locks and the red LED is solid (ie: not blinking) you may then click the 'sleep' button on the software app and then disconnect the USB cable (it sends 5v power to the LB clock and this should be avoided to lessen electrical noise to the LB for better sound quality) By clicking the sleep button the internal circuitry is disabled giving better sonic results.

Important: To be able to reconnect the USB config software app the LB must be powered down first to get the internal circuitry to work again (i.e is has to be rebooted), so any linear power supply used should be switched off so the LB clock can be discovered via the USB app (the USB connection will power the LB) Once discovered the LPS can be switched back on. The LB can operate happily with both the USB and LPS on. Favourite voltage for the LB is around 7.5-8v, this seems to warm the circuitry up enough to make the clock chip work optimally.

If at any time you see the LB red LED start blinking then it's time to reconnect the USB config software via you PC or Mac, this has happened to me a couple of times.
As others have suggested it's good protocol to redo the GPS lock every few weeks or so if using your system constantly.

If the blinking LED of output 2 is bothering you then tape or blu-tak can be used to mask the LED, or if you want, the fascia can be removed easily by removing the two securing screws on the LB and masking tape placed over the inside of the 'moulded refractor assembly' which is an injection moulding to allow the PCB LED's to be seen from outside the case.

I believe that the general consensus is to always leave the antenna connected to the LB clock.