[TiredNinja]

Hello. I searched for advice on how to repair my SR80's, but couldn't find much. Perhaps this is too simply of a problem?

One driver on my SR80 stopped working. I figured it was because a cable came loose somehow? Anyone have advice on how I could go about fixing this myself?

Thanks!

 

[FallenAngel]

Measure resistance between ground and the left/right channels to make sure it is 32 Ohms. If it is not, the cable has become disconnected and you'll want to find where the problem is - the driver, cable split or the plug.

Does moving the cablea round the driver help this? Does moving the cable around the plug help this? If either does, you'll know where you will want to reattach the cable.

 

[joneeboi]

Unless you can poke your DMM prongs through the SR80 grille to tap the solder pads, you need to open it up. Consult the headwize Grado mods article for that. Follow FallenAngel's instructions and see if there's an open circuit somewhere in the cable. The cable usually is pretty secure inside the casing itself, so there isn't that much probability that one of the wires tore off the driver's solder pads. Either way, you can check if that's that problem and quickly solder the wires back on. Work your way up the cable as you wiggle the wires inside. See if the cables are split somewhere. If that's the case, you get to join the legions of Grado recablers.

 

[TiredNinja]

Great! Thank you both so much. I was considering a recable... Any suggestions on an affordable recable?

 

[FallenAngel]

Nice idea for the recable. Follow joneeboi's link, it shows you how to open the Grado cups.

Affordable cables - Mogami 2534 (24AWG) or 2893 (26AWG I think), Canare L-4E6S (24AWG). All are available for cheap from Redco Audio. I have seen that most prefer the Mogami over the Canare and it's a great choice, I've used it before for some nice interconnects.

 

[Pars]

Quote:

Originally Posted by FallenAngel /img/forum/go_quote.gif Measure resistance between ground and the left/right channels to make sure it is 32 Ohms. If it is not, the cable has become disconnected and you'll want to find where the problem is - the driver, cable split or the plug. Does moving the cablea round the driver help this? Does moving the cable around the plug help this? If either does, you'll know where you will want to reattach the cable.

One other possibility that we all would prefer not to think about here... if you do not have continuity or correct ohm reading here, the voicecoil for the driver could be burned out (they usually go open as they are very fine wire).

I am sure if one side is not working that you will find an open reading with an ohmeter on that side. If you open the cups up, ohm out the driver itself. If it checks out then yours is a cable/connection problem. If not, you need a new driver. Be very careful with heat when soldering the driver connections... use as little time on the joint as possible.

 

[TiredNinja]

Great! Thanks all for the repair/cable advice. This turned into a very useful thread.

Now to borrow the tools I need.

 

[soloz2]

I've used the mini Mogami with good results on lower end Grados before. I've used Cardas on others.