[alexdemaet]

What is the next part? On which xlr pins do I have to solder the conductors?

I found some more info:

I changed the cable on mine from 1/4 to 4pin XLR. I remember a few tips for you.
1: all Grado’s have 4, 8 or 12 wires running all the way between driver and connector.
2: all Grado wires are colour coded, there are 3 colours.
3: the easy way to determine left and right wires is to use an ohm meter, listening for a scratching sound to emit form the driver when rubbing the contact. Do it 1 wire at a time.
4: all Grado’s use blue wires for - on both sides, white for + on right side, red for + on left side.
5: the jack tip is the L+, the ring is R+ and the base is L and R -.

 

[joseph69]

Below is a PM I sent to another member regarding terminating his GH4 from 1/4" to 4-Pin XLR.
Same applies for all Grado conductor cables.


Yes, I can provide you with my instructions on how to terminate your Grado's to XLR. I'm assuming you want to terminate your GH4 going off your signature, correct? If yes, Grado doesn't state how many conductor cabe comes on the GH4 on their site, but the my directions apply to all cable conductors weather they be 4-8-12. I'm going to assume you have an 8 conductor cable like both, my GH1 & GH2 do.

Cut your 1/8" or 1/4" (in your case 1/4") SE termination off and strip the outer insulation +/-1-1/2" and you'll see the wires mentioned below, as well as having enough cable to work with.

2 Red wires = Left Channel Positive
2 White wires = Right Channel Positive
4 Blue wires = Negative/Ground (2-per L&R channel)

Using a digital multi-meter (or analog) set to Ohms take the 2 Positive Red wires (L-channel) and twist them together. Now, 2 out of the 4 Blue Negative wires are going to correspond to the 2 Red (L-channel) wires and show +/- 32-Ohms of resistance between them. Find these 2 Blue Negative wires and twist them together. Now you have both, the 2 Red Positive (L-channel) wires tied together, and the 2 Blue Negative (L-channel) wires tied together for a total of 4 wires for the (L-channel). For good measure don't solder anything until you've determined the remaining 2 White (R-channel) wires and the remaining 2 Blue Negative (R-channel) wires are also showing +/-32 Ohms of resistance, then repeat the above steps.

If all checks out, the 2 Red Positive (L-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #1, the 2 Blue Negative (L-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #2, and the 2 White Positive (R-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #3, and the remaining 2 Blue Negative (R-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #4 as shown in the diagram below. Hope this is clear enough? If not, contact me and I'll be glad to assist you further.

Viewing from the back of the XLR connector;
1 = Left +
2 = L -
3 = R +
4 = R -

 

[alexdemaet]

Below is a PM I sent to another member regarding terminating his GH4 from 1/4" to 4-Pin XLR.
Same applies for all Grado conductor cables.


Yes, I can provide you with my instructions on how to terminate your Grado's to XLR. I'm assuming you want to terminate your GH4 going off your signature, correct? If yes, Grado doesn't state how many conductor cabe comes on the GH4 on their site, but the my directions apply to all cable conductors weather they be 4-8-12. I'm going to assume you have an 8 conductor cable like both, my GH1 & GH2 do.

Cut your 1/8" or 1/4" (in your case 1/4") SE termination off and strip the outer insulation +/-1-1/2" and you'll see the wires mentioned below, as well as having enough cable to work with.

2 Red wires = Left Channel Positive
2 White wires = Right Channel Positive
4 Blue wires = Negative/Ground (2-per L&R channel)

Using a digital multi-meter (or analog) set to Ohms take the 2 Positive Red wires (L-channel) and twist them together. Now, 2 out of the 4 Blue Negative wires are going to correspond to the 2 Red (L-channel) wires and show +/- 32-Ohms of resistance between them. Find these 2 Blue Negative wires and twist them together. Now you have both, the 2 Red Positive (L-channel) wires tied together, and the 2 Blue Negative (L-channel) wires tied together for a total of 4 wires for the (L-channel). For good measure don't solder anything until you've determined the remaining 2 White (R-channel) wires and the remaining 2 Blue Negative (R-channel) wires are also showing +/-32 Ohms of resistance, then repeat the above steps.

If all checks out, the 2 Red Positive (L-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #1, the 2 Blue Negative (L-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #2, and the 2 White Positive (R-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #3, and the remaining 2 Blue Negative (R-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #4 as shown in the diagram below. Hope this is clear enough? If not, contact me and I'll be glad to assist you further.

Viewing from the back of the XLR connector;
1 = Left +
2 = L -
3 = R +
4 = R -

Thanks for the detailed info!

 

[alexdemaet]

Below is a PM I sent to another member regarding terminating his GH4 from 1/4" to 4-Pin XLR.
Same applies for all Grado conductor cables.


Yes, I can provide you with my instructions on how to terminate your Grado's to XLR. I'm assuming you want to terminate your GH4 going off your signature, correct? If yes, Grado doesn't state how many conductor cabe comes on the GH4 on their site, but the my directions apply to all cable conductors weather they be 4-8-12. I'm going to assume you have an 8 conductor cable like both, my GH1 & GH2 do.

Cut your 1/8" or 1/4" (in your case 1/4") SE termination off and strip the outer insulation +/-1-1/2" and you'll see the wires mentioned below, as well as having enough cable to work with.

2 Red wires = Left Channel Positive
2 White wires = Right Channel Positive
4 Blue wires = Negative/Ground (2-per L&R channel)

Using a digital multi-meter (or analog) set to Ohms take the 2 Positive Red wires (L-channel) and twist them together. Now, 2 out of the 4 Blue Negative wires are going to correspond to the 2 Red (L-channel) wires and show +/- 32-Ohms of resistance between them. Find these 2 Blue Negative wires and twist them together. Now you have both, the 2 Red Positive (L-channel) wires tied together, and the 2 Blue Negative (L-channel) wires tied together for a total of 4 wires for the (L-channel). For good measure don't solder anything until you've determined the remaining 2 White (R-channel) wires and the remaining 2 Blue Negative (R-channel) wires are also showing +/-32 Ohms of resistance, then repeat the above steps.

If all checks out, the 2 Red Positive (L-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #1, the 2 Blue Negative (L-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #2, and the 2 White Positive (R-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #3, and the remaining 2 Blue Negative (R-channel) wires will be soldered to pole #4 as shown in the diagram below. Hope this is clear enough? If not, contact me and I'll be glad to assist you further.

Viewing from the back of the XLR connector;
1 = Left +
2 = L -
3 = R +
4 = R -

It would be easier (without ohm meter) if I could follow the wires straight from the earcups (L and R). For example here:

I might just remove the black cable protection to follow the colored wires easily

 

[joseph69]

@alexdemaet

You're welcome.
I don't quite understand your post above?
You need to determine the resistance (Ohms) between the ground wires that correspond with the L & R channels. There is no need to remove the entire insulation from the cable...only each end +/-1-1/2". Also, I'd be interested in how your PS2000e sound in wood cups in comparison to the aluminum alloy.

EDIT: Never mind, I misunderstood your photo above and thought it was your liberated PS2000 drivers and wood cups in the background.
In any case, it's just as easy to use a DMM to find the resistance.

 

[alexdemaet]

Thanks to Joseph, I successfully terminated the Ps2000e to xlr! The looks are not such desired but the sound from coming from the loxjie p20 in balanced mode are much better then the single ended mode. That's was the goal for me to transform the single ended Grado to balanced.

 

[alexdemaet]

Thanks to Joseph, I successfully terminated the Ps2000e to xlr! The looks are not such desired but the sound from coming from the loxjie p20 in balanced mode are much better then the single ended mode. That's was the goal for me to transform the single ended Grado to balanced.

I have modded the Grado Ps2000e with the diy kit from beautiful audio! Thanks to Silvian from beautiful audio it wasn't hard at all. It looks like I am becoming an expert in recabling

 

[ESL-1]

I have modded the Grado Ps2000e with the diy kit from beautiful audio! Thanks to Silvian from beautiful audio it wasn't hard at all. It looks like I am becoming an expert in recabling

If you are having any issues with the black chrome finish of the PS2000e F11 Top Coat liquid is the fix. No heavy rubbing on the edge of the cups as you might wear off the finish on the edge.

 

[elira]

In the years that I've owned the PS2000e it has always been an struggle to find an amp that pairs well with them, but I wanted to share that the Zähl HM1 pairs beautifully with the PS2000e, it's kind of way too expensive but the pairing is delightful.

On the more affordable amps I found the Flux Lab FA-12 to also pair well, but that amp is huge, takes way too much desk space and doesn't have many features.

Anyways, I was using a Benchmark HPA4 but it didn't pair very well the PS2000e, so I kept the FA-12 just for the PS2000e, most of the time I would just use my Grado Hemp to avoid the hassle of having to turn on the FA-12 and wait for it to warm up. Now with the Zähl HM1 I have been using the PS2000e as my main headphones, music is great, movies are great, and I have been enjoying them more than before.

Anyways, I haven't found an open back that bests the PS2000e, but it's an struggle to find a good amp for the PS2000e, anyways I hope you are enjoying yours.

 

[Alucard1]

Try Spirit Torino Valkyria with Zahl.

 

[alexdemaet]

Try Spirit Torino Valkyria with Zahl.

12K for the HP ouch

 

[alexdemaet]

Public price without discount
In Belgium and Holland: 3500 €
In France : 4000 €

I was lucky, I bought aPS2K 2nd hand from Earsunlimited for about 1400 euro!

 

[ESL-1]

I was lucky, I bought aPS2K 2nd hand from Earsunlimited for about 1400 euro!

Excellent score. I am guessing you got the Black production version or was it possibly one of the standard chrome B Stock units they released at the end of the run?

The black finish needs keeping up with. The fix of finger printed or faded oxidation look is easily handled with F11 top coat finish. Rub lightly with soft cloth.

They are great phones, it was a shame to see them go.

Enjoy

 

[alexdemaet]

Excellent score. I am guessing you got the Black production version or was it possibly one of the standard chrome B Stock units they released at the end of the run?

The black finish needs keeping up with. The fix of finger printed or faded oxidation look is easily handled with F11 top coat finish. Rub lightly with soft cloth.

They are great phones, it was a shame to see them go.

Enjoy

Thanks ! I am sorry I have no idea which version I have. I have attached a picture with the serial number. I don't care about the looks. The thing that matters to me is the inside - sound image

 

[ESL-1]

Thanks ! I am sorry I have no idea which version I have. I have attached a picture with the serial number. I don't care about the looks. The thing that matters to me is the inside - sound image

They are excellent phones, in my opinion the best sounding Grado along with the best bass of any Grado. No fingerprints etc. is optional to the user. At the end of the production there were enough drivers left to make some reduced price B stock units using leftover chrome housings from the PS1000 series.

Initial break in on these is well over 200 hours but would guess yours have had enough unless they have been sitting idle for a long period of time.