[The Quality Guru]

How do the modded comfy pads (on the RS-1) compare to the flat pads?

 

[Steve999]

Travelite --

Great to know!

I have the RS pads on the SR60s, which I perceived to be an improvement over the Grado stock comfy pads, but with no cutout. I'm very interested in the cutout in the RS pads if it increases bass. Could you elaborate on how you do the cut-out, how big it is etc.?



Quote:

Originally posted by TravelLite Personally though, I'm completely sold on modded RadioShack #33-379 pads. Altogether, I've bought eleven pairs of these. Seven pairs were eventually sacrificed in the name of science while trying to find the optimal hole size and perfect my cutting technique. The sonic benefits compared to the OEM bowl pads include: - increase in apparent loudness - astonishing increase in detail even at remarkably low volume levels - increase in bass and 3/4 tones - low cost and non-destructive On the negative side, there's probably some slight decrease in soundstage (spatial width and depth), but considering the benefits I barely notice or miss that. TravelLite

 

[skippy]

modified comfy pads and rat shack pads sound entirely different from the flat doughnuts. the donuts are in an entirely different league.

 

[DarkAngel]

Nothing magical about flat pads, they just place ear closer to driver vs bowl pad. We have discussed many times here if you want to simulate sound you get with flat pads you cut out center of comfy pad then "flip" it when installing so original factory cut hole is against you ear........also very comfortable.

Flipped Comfy Pad

Because foam is so soft with Comfy the driver will actually be closer to ear when used than picture may indicate.

 

[TravelLite]

Steve999:

Since you've got un-modded RadioShack (RS) earpads, I suspect you're already hearing something fairly similar to what I am.

When I set out to fit the RS earpads on my SR60 and SR80 headphones, I'd already come to the conclusion that I wanted a hole. At the time, the only question in my mind was what size. People often suggest sizes ranging from the diameter of a dime on up to a quarter.

Cent: .750 in. (19.05 mm)
Nickel: .835 in. (21.21 mm)
Dime: .705 in. (17.91 mm)
Quarter: .955 in. (24.26 mm)
Half Dollar: 1.205 in. (30.61 mm)
Golden Dollar: 1.043 in. (26.5 mm)

Before I began experimenting, I was using both the SR60 and SR80 exclusively with un-modded OEM bowl pads.

Grado owners using the bowl pads are probably familiar with the increase in bass when the earcups are pressed firmly against the head. I found this effect quite pronounced.

With the modded RS pads though, I found this "trick" no longer works. In other words, the "missing" bass was "restored". Certainly, bass was increased.

Using different US coins and a variety of flat washers, I tried sizes ranging from .625 to 1.5 inches in diameter. Ultimately, I found the size I liked best was 1.043 inches (just under one and one-sixteenth of an inch). This is the diameter of the Sacagawea golden dollar.

With respect to the holes in the perforated plate that cover the transducers, this size is just large enough to expose the single 5/16-inch center hole and the surrounding inner ring of eight 5/32-inch holes. The outer ring of sixteen 1/8-inch holes remains covered.

Interestingly, I found that when the 1/8-inch holes in the outer ring were either partially or completely exposed, the treble and mids became too harsh and severe for my liking.

As to cutting technique, the following is the method I found that worked best:

First, make a small index mark on the edge the coin with a ballpoint pen. This serves as a starting and stopping point when making the cut.

For a cutting surface, I used a heavy, smooth, 9-inch diameter ceramic plate. This was then covered with several layers of ordinary bond paper, about 4 inches square.

Working in good light and on a solid, smooth, friction-free surface, lay the RS pad ear-side up on the paper.

Carefully center the coin on the RS pad. This takes a little time since the RS pads are quite asymmetrical.

If right-handed, press down very firmly on the coin with the left thumb, compressing the foam. Double-check that the coin still looks centered.

If the intended hole is any lager than about an inch, confirm that only one layer of foam material is being compressed or "trapped" under the coin.

For a cutting tool I used a new (sharp) #9 single-edged razor blade. A new fine-point X-ACTO blade or equivalent would also work. The razor blade should be held at a 45 degree angle so the actual cutting surface is as small as possible.

Using the index mark as a visual guide, and the coin's edge as a physical guide, plunge the blade straight down into the pad.

When making the cut, it's necessary to keep the flat surface of the blade firmly up against the coin's edge. This means keeping the blade's plane "parallel" to the coin's radius as the cut is being made.

Moving the blade but keeping the cutting surface stationary, make a cut about one-eighth to one-sixth of the way around the coin's circumference and stop.

Then, without withdrawing the blade or relaxing pressure on the coin, rotate the cutting surface about 45 to 60 degrees with the free left-hand fingers. Continue cutting.

Repeat the process, cutting just past the index mark and withdraw the blade.

Standard disclaimer: YMMV. Available locally in the US at $3.00/pair, the RS pads are an easy and low-cost way to experiment with Grado sound.

TravelLite

 

[Steve999]

Hey, thanks so much TravelLite. I'm going to give it a shot! Since I infer from what you write that you have taste similar to mine, how much of an upgrade do you find the SR80s to be compared to the SR60s? (I don't have an amp.)

(Anyone else with an opinion on the subject would be helpful as well.)

 

[TravelLite]

Steve999:

I just did a quick unamped A/B from the headphone-out on my Discman. Fairly fresh alkaline batteries and a well-produced commercial CD.

Sony FM/AM Discman D-F415
May 1999, Malaysia
Headphone output: 15 mW + 15 mW @ 16 ohms

With the volume gain set to 100%, both loudness and FR sound very, very similar on the SR60 and SR80, at least playing from this source.

The only real difference that jumped-out at me was when I engaged the hyper-bass function. When this was set at the highest of two levels, in addition to hearing more bass, I could feel the SR80 vibrating the soft tissue around my ears. The hyper-bass function also increased the SR60's bass sound of course, but no "vibration" effect.

Incidentally, if you're interested in the SR80, it's been reported on this forum that the Alessandro Music Series One is a near-clone of the SR80. Apparently it's very well-regarded, although I don't know if or how it differs from the SR80, having no special knowledge about it myself.

Alessandro High-End Products: Music Series Headphones:
http://www.alessandro-products.com/headphones.html

TravelLite

 

[Steve999]

Thanks, TravelLite. That's a great help. I keep looking for a new cheap (<$80) pair of headphones that will give me a markedly different but equally high-quality experience compared to my Sennheiser HD497s, Grado SR60s, and Sony MDR V6s. I like a variety of sounds at my fingertips. It's been a futile search so far. Sounds like the SR60s and SR80s are awfully similar without an amp. I often tweak the bass up minimally with the SR60s. I guess I'll just keep messing with the SR 60 pads, it gives results and it's fun and cheap.

 

[Cheeba-Fi]

Well,

I tried listening to my 325's with reversed bowl pads and even no pads at all (slightly uncomfortable) and I really like the sound. I guess this is how the flat pads would sound.

So, I think that I'm going to try and garage produce a pair in my spare time (what's that

). I'm sort of working blind since I don't have an actual pad to work with. So, does anyone know off hand if accurate dimensions of the pads have been posted anywhere (sorry, don't have the time to scour the archives at the moment). If not, can someone post as accurate a set of measurements (for all surfaces) as possible (diagrams are helpful). It appears from the image that the face surface (the part that rests on your ears) is actually slightly domed. Is this correct?? Thanks for any information.

Namastay,
Cheeba-Fi

 

[M Rael]

I'd be happy to help, Cheeba. Later on today or early tonight I'll post on this thread with all the exact dimensions, with pics.

 

[Cheeba-Fi]

Muchas Gracias! I'll try and keep people updated as I work on the project, but no promises on the results or how long until I have a final product (or when I can start the project

). I'm excited about the challenge and the results (an excellent motivator for me

).

Namastay,
Cheeba-Fi

 

[M Rael]

Heres a rough version:

IMO one of the main issues is going to be foam density. They use the same foam on the flat pads as the bowl pads by the way. If you have more specific questions about the dimensions just let me know.

 

[kerelybonto]

MRael, see if you can take a picture of the interior circumference of the pad to show him the indentation that keeps the pad on the driver. It's about 2-3mm deep by 2-3mm high. Or, well, actually, it's the same as on other pads, so you can just look at those.

The rear of the flat pads are identical to the bowl pads except that they are not as deep. And, of course, the difference on the front is that they're flat instead of concaving out like the bowl pads.

kerelybonto

 

[M Rael]

Quote:

Originally posted by kerelybonto MRael, see if you can take a picture of the interior circumference of the pad to show him the indentation that keeps the pad on the driver. It's about 2-3mm deep by 2-3mm high.

That little indentation is a toughie, as far as making these pads from scratch is concerned. What Cheeba should do is make the pads from two separate parts and then glue them together. The first part would be the main face, 78mm across, approx 6mm thick and with the 40mm hole in the center. The second part would be the entire back section, approx 9mm thick (to give a total side width of 15mm when glued to the first part.) Thats how you can overcome the problem of two different hole sizes (40mm on the front and 50mm on the back.)

The only real challenge is the actual 'retaining indentation' in the pad that swallows the little lip on the edge of the enclosure and hold the pads firm. Possibly, this indentation can be ignored altogether. Another solution is to add a third component/layer inbetween the first two, which would give the effect of an indentation. In that case the third/middle part would be approx 3mm thick and have the same 78mm diameter as the other parts but would have a center hole of 53mm. So the face layer would be 6mm thick, middle layer 3mm thick, and the back layer 6mm thick. Total side width would be 15mm.

 

[kerelybonto]

Yeah, that might be the way to go. I wouldn't leave out the groove entirely, though, or the pads probably won't stay on the drivers correctly.

How much do you think the absorptive qualities of the foam affect the sound? For some reason I get the impression that the density will be important for more than just making sure they get your ears the right distance from the driver.

kerleybonto