DocBlasto
Head-Fier
- Joined
- Sep 12, 2007
- Posts
- 80
- Likes
- 11
My first thought was just to send the headphone back and pay, whatever, $40 for them to install a new cable. Then I realized that it would probably just split again in the same way, and I don't really want to open the cups and solder on the driver itself.
My question is this: Can anyone think of a problem with just cutting out the little rubber block at the Y junction (which is ALWAYS the source of the split) and re-soldering the 4 connections? Besides shrink tubing, which will provide strain relief from the joint flexing, is there any sort of "crimp" I can use on either side of the joint to prevent the soldered strands from taking the brunt of the "pull"?
I was considering using shrink tubing, then a tight small zip-tie on either side of the joint (to secure the tubing to the pre-existing plastic sheathing) then ANOTHER layer of shrink tubing over the zip-ties to tidy it all up. Anyone else have a better idea?
My question is this: Can anyone think of a problem with just cutting out the little rubber block at the Y junction (which is ALWAYS the source of the split) and re-soldering the 4 connections? Besides shrink tubing, which will provide strain relief from the joint flexing, is there any sort of "crimp" I can use on either side of the joint to prevent the soldered strands from taking the brunt of the "pull"?
I was considering using shrink tubing, then a tight small zip-tie on either side of the joint (to secure the tubing to the pre-existing plastic sheathing) then ANOTHER layer of shrink tubing over the zip-ties to tidy it all up. Anyone else have a better idea?