[DocBlasto]

My first thought was just to send the headphone back and pay, whatever, $40 for them to install a new cable. Then I realized that it would probably just split again in the same way, and I don't really want to open the cups and solder on the driver itself.
 
My question is this: Can anyone think of a problem with just cutting out the little rubber block at the Y junction (which is ALWAYS the source of the split) and re-soldering the 4 connections? Besides shrink tubing, which will provide strain relief from the joint flexing, is there any sort of "crimp" I can use on either side of the joint to prevent the soldered strands from taking the brunt of the "pull"?
 
I was considering using shrink tubing, then a tight small zip-tie on either side of the joint (to secure the tubing to the pre-existing plastic sheathing) then ANOTHER layer of shrink tubing over the zip-ties to tidy it all up. Anyone else have a better idea?

 

[liamstrain]

can you cut away the Y-split without cutting the wires, then put a new split from qables over it (I think that should just snap over, without requiring threading through)? 
 
The wires themselves are fine, after all... it's just the outer sheathing that is damaged. 

 

[DocBlasto]

I think you're right... I just have to be VERY careful. presumably, there should be a way to extricate the wires without damaging them, as long as I work slowly and carefully enough. I see that the Qable Y-splitters seem to have the same size diameter for all 3 legs, while my Grado cables are a much larger diameter for the main cable, as opposed to the two leads which go to the earcups. How would I get a tight fit for the housing on those two smaller leads? It seems to me that if the cable were pulled at all, it would be the strands of wire (not the housing) that takes most of the strain.

 

[philipcondon]

Hi, I'm having the same problem with my SR 80's and was wondering how you got on with resolving it. Can you get into the y junction to reconnect the wires, cheers Phil