[m-i-c-k-e-y]

There is another 3.26 driver that has been patched by LHLabs on the signed driver issue. It's out there. Unfortunately I don't have it.

 

[runningwitit]

Can anyone instruct me on how to install a fuse on my Pulse ?

Usb will not connect to computer because of a short in the power cord I had connected to it when it popped..... It was hooked up to the lps4 also....which has a ground issue that I am not concerned about at the moment...

 

[pbui44]

So I took another stab at trying to figure out what type of screen is used in this series of dac/amps, and I think it is this one in the 3.3V configuration:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832646917403.html

Using these older pictures of what is now the "labs" very likely now used for Tesla speaker setups, I think the one in the AE link is the exact part, but you can try resoldering this part for yourself and see if it will replace the burnt-out screen in your unit:

Edit: By looking at this older posted picture, the lcd board may just be plug-and-play with the precise mounting by using fine needle-nose pliers to loosen and tighten washer mounts:

Lastly, for those who are still "waiting" for their LH DAC/Amp purchase to arrive: you should just get a Sabaj A20H with a Topping D10 Balanced DAC and HD58X or HD6XX with balanced cable and call it a consolation prize.

 

[Shawnb]

Lastly, for those who are still "waiting" for their LH DAC/Amp purchase to arrive: you should just get a Sabaj A20H with a Topping D10 Balanced DAC and HD58X or HD6XX with balanced cable and call it a consolation prize.

I can't honestly believe anyone still thinks they will get anything more out of this. They wouldn't even entertain the idea of repairing my damaged 2.5mm connector for my $5200 Oscar XXI's. First strung me around with they would replace it to finally telling me oh just buy another cable it'll be the same thing as one "custom" designed for the overpriced junk they came with. That's the so called "company" we're dealing with.

If anyone still thinks that there's anything left is in need of serious help. It's over and has been for a long time. Anyone who didn't take advantage of the exchange program is SOL, or least more SOL then the rest of us. I'd of rather not got my Source SE then not even use the POS I have now. Some headaches are better not known.

As for that picture, considering who's the one holding that part I wouldn't trust it was even real. Just looking at it makes me want to break my screen.

LHL is, was and always will be the ultimate

 

[savaloco]

There is another 3.26 driver that has been patched by LHLabs on the signed driver issue. It's out there. Unfortunately I don't have it.

Hey folks. I just set up a new rig and seem to have the Pulse working with Windows 11.

There is another 3.26 driver that has been patched by LHLabs on the signed driver issue. It's out there. Unfortunately I don't have it.

Hey All.
I just set up a new rig with Windows 11 and seem to have my pulse working as it should.
Connected via USB running Foobar (see image).

Glad to share my LH files:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/19BPXPDqmZwqMuEi1B_gg7rr-6YclwD6L?usp=sharing


https://drive.google.com/drive/fold...ourcekey=0-vQ3G0rc65FwK8wQLsOuBcQ&usp=sharing

Hope this helps.

Cheers

 

[savaloco]

My Geek Pulse xFi stopped working after recent BIOS & Windows updates. The 3.26 driver which has served me well for years is "unsigned" and can no longer be installed (with Secure Boot enabled). I've searched for Windows generic or alternative drivers, with no luck. Has anyone found a workaround for this problem? This seems like such a minor reason to brick such an excellent DAC.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/gee...c-amp-by-light-harmonics.687851/post-17413701

 

[glatzj]

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/gee...c-amp-by-light-harmonics.687851/post-17413701

I posted this previously as the course of last resort.

For this and some of the other recent posts, I have been able to keep my Geek Pulse xFi working somewhat by bypassing the 3.26 driver and using a Toslink optical input. I use a Topping D10s and its driver as a Toslink/Coax bridge to the Geek Pulse. It works well - but my Geek Pulse xFi's volume control does not work. I have to control it from Music Bee, the software music app I use. I have had to turn off the Geek Pulse for a long time (overnight) and then turn it on and off repeatedly (usually twice) to get some sort of Toslink response. Might work with Coax input also and likely another USB to Toslink/Coax bridge would also work. Darko in one of his videos recommends the use of a Topping D10s to clean up the USB signal. Seems to work for me. Still absolutely love the xFi sound - originally with an Hifiman HE-560 planar magnetic headphone, but now with a Focal Clear headphone, which is even better and needs no EQ.

 

[m-i-c-k-e-y]

I'll share my other solution to your worries......

Just kidding...USB was busted due to a short on my Revelation Labs custom power barrel cable.
So my solution was a Singxer F-1 connected to its SPDIF. Right now its on the shelves.

 

[runningwitit]

I'll share my other solution to your worries......

Just kidding...USB was busted due to a short on my Revelation Labs custom power barrel cable.
So my solution was a Singxer F-1 connected to its SPDIF. Right now its on the shelves.

Send to local repair shop like me... Tell them to use wpt or cardas silver solder... Match exact parts or better if possible...

 

[caracara08]

I hate that this thread came up on my new posts. Screw LHL.

 

[stuck limo]

So I took another stab at trying to figure out what type of screen is used in this series of dac/amps, and I think it is this one in the 3.3V configuration:

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832646917403.html

Using these older pictures of what is now the "labs" very likely now used for Tesla speaker setups

Nah they dumped that place and got a new location. I was supposed to go there to the new place to help organize the place and get a system in place for repairs, etc. But it never panned out (Larry never bought the plane ticket and the new investor was apparently around for about an hour and left the office. So I guess twice never got to visit.

 

[kostaszag]

My Pulse Sfi/LPS combo has worked fine until now, with only slight hickups when changing sampling rates or when the remote loses its pairing with the DAC (it is easy to remedy but a PITA nonetheless). The sound is fine, no complains there, but I want to cut the connection with such an unreliable and untrustworthy company. So, a few days ago I bought a used ifi IDSD Neo off ebay and I can't wait to get my hands on it. ifi might be the absolute antipode of LH Labs: Serious, reliable, producing excellent hifi gear who do EXACTLY what they are supposed to do for an affordable price. The moment the IDSD NEO crosses my doorstep I am placing an add for the LhLabs on ebay and never looking back.

 

[kostaszag]

I have the same basic issue. My Volume won't change the volume level -- X-fi balanced version. I now have it running Toslink Optical input (via a Topping D10S) to avoid driver issues. This works well with the following caveats. I have to leave it powered on permanently. If it is turned off, such as after a power outage, nothing works. I leave it without the power plugged in for a few days and then turn it back on and leave it on for a few days to fully warm up. Then I hooked it up to my Music Player (Music Bee) and switched the Geek Pulse Xfi power switch off and on, setting the input to Toslink (optical). After doing this several times, I got to a state where I had no Geek Pulse Xfi knob control (including volume), but both DAC and amp would work through all outputs. I can control the Geek Pulse volume via the Music Player volume control via the optical input. Volume control is not very fine in control, but the sound quality of WAV files bit-perfect into the Geek Pulse and out of the balanced XLR to Focal Clear headphones is outstanding. I'm not sure whether this will be repeatable when the next power outage happens. I think that by having it hooked up optically when you initially turn it off then on, it tries to sort itself out and saves those settings. Then when you quickly turn it off and on again the 2nd time, it tries to implement those settings. that's my best guess......

Have you tried repeating the pairing with the Apple remote? Or simply manually reconfirming knob-control from the menu?

 

[runningwitit]

My Pulse Sfi/LPS combo has worked fine until now, with only slight hickups when changing sampling rates or when the remote loses its pairing with the DAC (it is easy to remedy but a PITA nonetheless). The sound is fine, no complains there, but I want to cut the connection with such an unreliable and untrustworthy company. So, a few days ago I bought a used ifi IDSD Neo off ebay and I can't wait to get my hands on it. ifi might be the absolute antipode of LH Labs: Serious, reliable, producing excellent hifi gear who do EXACTLY what they are supposed to do for an affordable price. The moment the IDSD NEO crosses my doorstep I am placing an add for the LhLabs on ebay and never looking back.

Or use them together...many options with both!!

They could positively complement each other...

 

[kostaszag]

Or use them together...many options with both!!

They could positively complement each other...

How? I can't imagine using two DACs at the same time.