[bcowen]

Is your packaging this good mate?

The vacuum inside my head is still good. Does that count?

 

[Mattyjm]

Hi everyone! I recently got my hands on a Feliks Elise (i think its a mk1) and I'm ready to jump into the deep rabbit hole which is tube rolling. Im looking to get more performance out of the Elise (without going overboard with adapters).

I'm looking to get something that would help with the soundstage and slam, while keeping the extension up top.

I have found some candidates in my area, curious to know what you guys think about them (Prices are in SGD for a pair, are negotiable):

6080s:

1. Mullard 6080: wordings have been rubbed off, there is a "AJ1 R4C" marking left on one of the tubes that make me believe it was manufactured in England. Price is slightly lower than usual, so i'm pretty caution of this one. ($150)
2. Philips JAN SEC 6080 (Black plates Triple Mica): Green wordings, condition is exquiste. Looks to be the same as a sylvania 6080. ($70)
3. Mullard 6080 (CV2984): really bad external condition, unsure if its legit ($60)
4. GE "5 Star"6080 : Outer condition looks bad, but from what i've read, this is not a bad option as well. Unsure whether if its 2 mica or 3 mica. ($50)

6AS7G:

1. RCA 6AS7G: Coke bottle , Red text. ($100)

Any other suggestions (that are reasonable) are welcome as well.

 

[CAJames]

If you are OK with adapters you can get pairs of GEC A2293 tubes practically for free from Langrex compared to GEC 6080/6AS7 tubes and they sound great in my WA22.

 

[Gemini88]

The JAN 6080s are good. That's what my amp came with. I think the main difference is they are designed to be more resistant to vibration and impact. I've tried other 6080s and didn't really notice an improvement.

A 7236 is interchangeable for a 6080 in my amp but I don't know about your specific amp. They are built to different electrical specifications than the 6080. Last time I saw one for sale it cost about $75 but they are hard to find. I have one, I think it has more power and "slam" than the 6080 but doesn't necessarily sound better. I'm kind of a treble head. Mine is used and looked like it had a rough life so take that into consideration.

Next you have the 5998 and 421a but those are much more expensive. I have a 5998 and it does sound really nice. Good soundstage and vocals sound great. Whether it's worth the extra cost really depends on your budget. I my opinion it's a very small difference from a 6080.

I think usually the 6AS7G isn't considered an upgrade from a 6080, that seems like a lot of money for one but I'm sure others on this forum will know better than I. There is also a Russian tube that is interchangeable with the 6AS75/6080 but I don't remember the model number. There's a popular one called the "Winged C". I got one for about $25 but I prefer the 6080 & 5998.

Sorry for the vague answers! It's very hard for me to distinguish and identify the differences between tubes but it is fun to collect and compare them. The condition they are in could make as much difference as the brand so try to buy from a reputable seller who tests their tubes.

Of course your amp and headphones would make a huge difference too. What tubes did your amp come with?

 

[Monsterzero]

Hi everyone! I recently got my hands on a Feliks Elise (i think its a mk1) and I'm ready to jump into the deep rabbit hole which is tube rolling. Im looking to get more performance out of the Elise (without going overboard with adapters).

I'm looking to get something that would help with the soundstage and slam, while keeping the extension up top.

I have found some candidates in my area, curious to know what you guys think about them (Prices are in SGD for a pair, are negotiable):

6080s:

1. Mullard 6080: wordings have been rubbed off, there is a "AJ1 R4C" marking left on one of the tubes that make me believe it was manufactured in England. Price is slightly lower than usual, so i'm pretty caution of this one. ($150)
2. Philips JAN SEC 6080 (Black plates Triple Mica): Green wordings, condition is exquiste. Looks to be the same as a sylvania 6080. ($70)
3. Mullard 6080 (CV2984): really bad external condition, unsure if its legit ($60)
4. GE "5 Star"6080 : Outer condition looks bad, but from what i've read, this is not a bad option as well. Unsure whether if its 2 mica or 3 mica. ($50)

6AS7G:

1. RCA 6AS7G: Coke bottle , Red text. ($100)

Any other suggestions (that are reasonable) are welcome as well.

I dunno about "reasonable" but the Bendix 6080wb checks a lot of the boxes you're looking for. WE 421 a and TS 5998 as well.

 

[therremans]

Summarized well above; this thread has all the answers. For my amp, the 5998 is the most well rounded. The Mullard 6080 gives me great soundstage but won’t have the same drive/slam that the 5998 has. A Tung Sol 7236 was like a 5998 that’s biased toward treble. The bottom end won’t be punchy but also depends on what driver tube you have. The idea is that you can choose the driver tube based on what output tube you have socketed to complement it and what kind of music you’re listening to.

I realize having two output/driver tubes doubles the price and you might be overseas which makes it a lot more difficult to hunt down tubes on eBay, but here’s my advice..

I would personally avoid the RCA 6AS7G and GE/Sylvania 6080s. They just didn’t sound good to me and not worth the money. I think my least favorite output tube was my NOS RCA JAN 6AS7G (early 50s I think but would have to check the box, black base); I also had an orange or red printed one, total dud of a tube in my experience. Point is spend the money wisely and get something good from the start. Don’t shop on tube websites where they overcharge for bad sounding tubes (as it’s all they can find/stock), use eBay or audio forums. Langrex is a good English seller who lists on eBay and it’s where I got my NOS Mullard for $100 (few years back). It takes patience but you’ll find a score. If your tube had any issues, don’t throw it away. Also buying lots of 3-4 tubes can help. Keep the best and sell the rest and you often can get the tube for free this way.

Most tube issues can be fixed by heating up the pins and reflowing the solder. I’ve brought a totally dead tube back to life a few times with this method or cured static/pops. Untested tubes can save you cash but at a risk, try to buy from sellers that offer returns/guarantee. Get a refurbished tester if you’re really into it.

I don’t have your amp but based on my experience for your requests:

- Find a 5998 (domino plates), often I see ones that test very low for high prices. I would only buy a low testing tube if it was a bargain.
- Graphite plate 6080s (Bendix 6080-WB (super rare now), Chatham, Tung-Sol) are similar to a Mullard with more drive. The slotted versions sound more open in my experience. You can find Chatham or Tung Sol with slotted plates. Solid are fine too, but don’t pay too much.
- Chatham or Tung Sol 6080s with the aluminum winged supports (my description may be off but when you see it..), these are/used to be the best bang for your money at $20-$30 a pop. Don’t pay too much for one.
- Chatham 6AS7G, great low end and a good all rounder. These used to be had for around $75 but it varies now and they are hard to find at a decent price like any good tube. Don’t pay near 5998 prices for one, just go with the 5998.
- I’ll add the Mullard 6080 as it’s a fine tube that reveals the source very well, but I wouldn’t say it’s known for high drive/slam.

That’s some advice from me. You’ll find a lot more options in the driver tube so just pick a solid output pair and be set.

 

[raindownthunda]

Great lists above.

I’ll also recommend adding GEC 6080 to the list. Pricey if you go NOS but a top tier tube. I’ve gambled on used/untested and have gotten some fantastic sounding tubes for a fraction of “NOS” prices.

Chatham 6AS7G still best “value” if you’re patient. GE 6AS7G can be found with the same construction/different label, often can be found for cheaper.

 

[maxpudding]

The Russian made 6N5S/6N13S tubes are decent tubes, not as good as the chathams or the GECs though they are cheaper.

 

[drjerryyan]

Summarized well above; this thread has all the answers. For my amp, the 5998 is the most well rounded. The Mullard 6080 gives me great soundstage but won’t have the same drive/slam that the 5998 has. A Tung Sol 7236 was like a 5998 that’s biased toward treble. The bottom end won’t be punchy but also depends on what driver tube you have. The idea is that you can choose the driver tube based on what output tube you have socketed to complement it and what kind of music you’re listening to.

I realize having two output/driver tubes doubles the price and you might be overseas which makes it a lot more difficult to hunt down tubes on eBay, but here’s my advice..

I would personally avoid the RCA 6AS7G and GE/Sylvania 6080s. They just didn’t sound good to me and not worth the money. I think my least favorite output tube was my NOS RCA JAN 6AS7G (early 50s I think but would have to check the box, black base); I also had an orange or red printed one, total dud of a tube in my experience. Point is spend the money wisely and get something good from the start. Don’t shop on tube websites where they overcharge for bad sounding tubes (as it’s all they can find/stock), use eBay or audio forums. Langrex is a good English seller who lists on eBay and it’s where I got my NOS Mullard for $100 (few years back). It takes patience but you’ll find a score. If your tube had any issues, don’t throw it away. Also buying lots of 3-4 tubes can help. Keep the best and sell the rest and you often can get the tube for free this way.

Most tube issues can be fixed by heating up the pins and reflowing the solder. I’ve brought a totally dead tube back to life a few times with this method or cured static/pops. Untested tubes can save you cash but at a risk, try to buy from sellers that offer returns/guarantee. Get a refurbished tester if you’re really into it.

I don’t have your amp but based on my experience for your requests:

- Find a 5998 (domino plates), often I see ones that test very low for high prices. I would only buy a low testing tube if it was a bargain.
- Graphite plate 6080s (Bendix 6080-WB (super rare now), Chatham, Tung-Sol) are similar to a Mullard with more drive. The slotted versions sound more open in my experience. You can find Chatham or Tung Sol with slotted plates. Solid are fine too, but don’t pay too much.
- Chatham or Tung Sol 6080s with the aluminum winged supports (my description may be off but when you see it..), these are/used to be the best bang for your money at $20-$30 a pop. Don’t pay too much for one.
- Chatham 6AS7G, great low end and a good all rounder. These used to be had for around $75 but it varies now and they are hard to find at a decent price like any good tube. Don’t pay near 5998 prices for one, just go with the 5998.
- I’ll add the Mullard 6080 as it’s a fine tube that reveals the source very well, but I wouldn’t say it’s known for high drive/slam.

That’s some advice from me. You’ll find a lot more options in the driver tube so just pick a solid output pair and be set.

I would personally avoid the RCA 6AS7G and GE/Sylvania 6080s. They just didn’t sound good to me and not worth the money. I think my least favorite output tube was my NOS RCA JAN 6AS7G (early 50s I think but would have to check the box, black base);

I can also confirm this from personal experience. I ended up throwing a few of them (bought from eBay) because they were so noisy

 

[therremans]

Great lists above.

I’ll also recommend adding GEC 6080 to the list. Pricey if you go NOS but a top tier tube. I’ve gambled on used/untested and have gotten some fantastic sounding tubes for a fraction of “NOS” prices.

Chatham 6AS7G still best “value” if you’re patient. GE 6AS7G can be found with the same construction/different label, often can be found for cheaper.

Yes, I second the GEC 6080. Forgot about mine. If I recall it had more low end than my Mullard.

 

[therremans]

The Russian made 6N5S/6N13S tubes are decent tubes, not as good as the chathams or the GECs though they are cheaper.

I have an Edicron branded Russian from 85’ that has great low end and was like $10. I have heard the 50s winged-c is good but never got one.

Some more advice for new tube rollers: any tube with UFO shaped getters (little metal things inside the tube on a stick) are in fact Russian. It was common that American and English tube manufacturers would outsource tubes in the later years to meet demands.

 

[Mattyjm]

Of course your amp and headphones would make a huge difference too. What tubes did your amp come with?

Amp is the Feliks Elise; takes in 6080, 5998, 7236, 6N5P, 6N5S, ECC230 and CV2523. Headphones are the ZMF Aeolus.

I was looking to stay under 300 USD for a pair, which is around the price of Tung Sol 5998s. Seems like that's THE option for me. I'm not looking to spend too much. If anyone has a pair for sale/knows where to get one, I'm open to suggestions.

 

[Slade01]

Amp is the Feliks Elise; takes in 6080, 5998, 7236, 6N5P, 6N5S, ECC230 and CV2523. Headphones are the ZMF Aeolus.

I was looking to stay under 300 USD for a pair, which is around the price of Tung Sol 5998s. Seems like that's THE option for me. I'm not looking to spend too much. If anyone has a pair for sale/knows where to get one, I'm open to suggestions.

If you can get a pair of 5998 at around 300 or so, that is definitely the way to go. You really don't need to think about getting any other tubes beyond that, save for just having some kind of backup pair.

 

[Monsterzero]

Amp is the Feliks Elise; takes in 6080, 5998, 7236, 6N5P, 6N5S, ECC230 and CV2523. Headphones are the ZMF Aeolus.

I was looking to stay under 300 USD for a pair, which is around the price of Tung Sol 5998s. Seems like that's THE option for me. I'm not looking to spend too much. If anyone has a pair for sale/knows where to get one, I'm open to suggestions.

The 5998 is a pretty safe choice for the Aeolus as the ZMF tends to be warm and romantic sounding, so the 5998's tighter, cleaner sound should balance things out some

 

[AudioDuck]

the 5998's tighter, cleaner sound should balance things out some

I will note that 7236s are also tight/fast/clear…

I find my Tung-Sol U.S. Navy 7236s bring a lot of the strengths of good solid-state while allowing more air and space around performers and soundstage width/depth than, say, a Violectric V200 (which is an excellent SS amp).

I have also found 7236s to be more reasonable in price than 5998s, but are sadly also hard to find. Tung-Sols and Sylvanias tend to have the best reputation for good sound quality and quiet operation. I have a set of both, and both are very quiet.