[Scutey]

Another bargain gem the RCA 6N7, as per mordy's recommendation thought I'd give them a go, fantastic sound for so little money, lots of detail, warmth, extension top and bottom and wonderful warm mids, an absolute cracker, mordy, you were right again!

 

[mordy]

Another bargain gem the RCA 6N7, as per mordy's recommendation thought I'd give them a go, fantastic sound for so little money, lots of detail, warmth, extension top and bottom and wonderful warm mids, an absolute cracker, mordy, you were right again!

Glad you like them. The ones I have are from 1942-43. There is no glass in this tube except for the bottom disc with the pins.
Since it has no visual appeal and no tube glow it sells for very little - big bang for the buck!

 

[Scutey]

Not quite sure what year mine are from, don't know how to decipher RCA's date codes but, going on the logo I assume mine are 40s as well, also I'm sure you're right about the reasons they're not popular but when tubes sound this good why care what they look like, but I guess the up shot is that we can get them for little money!.

 

[mordy]

Not quite sure what year mine are from, don't know how to decipher RCA's date codes but, going on the logo I assume mine are 40s as well, also I'm sure you're right about the reasons they're not popular but when tubes sound this good why care what they look like, but I guess the up shot is that we can get them for little money!.

This chart will decipher the date codes:
1936 Z 1938 T 1940 R 1942 S 1944 H 1937 U 1939 x 1941 Y 1943 K 1945 V On Government tubes, the "E" was printed separately, typically below the date code. Private-brand tubes generally used a shipping date code of two or three characters. An initial letter (A through L, including I) gives month, followed by the last digit of the year. Bulk-packed (OEM) tubes also carried an "E"; individual-packed (distributor) ones did not. Thus "55" indicates distributor shipment in Oct. 1945; "L5El indicates OEM shipment in Dec. 1945. (Note the opportunity for confusion with the nonprivate-brand tubes under the system immediately above: "HSE," say, could mean either of two dates.)
http://pax-comm.com/rcadates.pdf

S2 means March-April 1942.
S=1942
1=Jan Feb
2=March April
3=May June
A=July Aug
B=Sept Oct
C= Take a guess lol
What does it say on your tube?
Some tubes have the number 278. This is just a quality control number like the the Russian OTK.
Have fun!

 

[Scutey]

This chart will decipher the date codes:
1936 Z 1938 T 1940 R 1942 S 1944 H 1937 U 1939 x 1941 Y 1943 K 1945 V On Government tubes, the "E" was printed separately, typically below the date code. Private-brand tubes generally used a shipping date code of two or three characters. An initial letter (A through L, including I) gives month, followed by the last digit of the year. Bulk-packed (OEM) tubes also carried an "E"; individual-packed (distributor) ones did not. Thus "55" indicates distributor shipment in Oct. 1945; "L5El indicates OEM shipment in Dec. 1945. (Note the opportunity for confusion with the nonprivate-brand tubes under the system immediately above: "HSE," say, could mean either of two dates.)
http://pax-comm.com/rcadates.pdf

S2 means March-April 1942.
S=1942
1=Jan Feb
2=March April
3=May June
A=July Aug
B=Sept Oct
C= Take a guess lol
What does it say on your tube?
Some tubes have the number 278. This is just a quality control number like the the Russian OTK.
Have fun!

Hi mordy, Thanks for the info, the code on my two tubes is K6E. As these are non military tubes, would I be right in thinking that my tubes are Nov 1946 ?.

 

[mordy]

Hi Scutey,
I am not positive if these tubes were made in 1946 and later - this is a question for Oskari.
Perhaps the K stands for 1943 and the 6 means the last two months Nov-Dec of the year. E means OEM equipment.
Some of the tubes I have came with the original boxes that verified the date.

 

[Scutey]

Yes it's a pity they didn't come in the original boxes, we need a code breaker!.

 

[Oskari]

I am not positive if these tubes were made in 1946 and later - this is a question for Oskari.

Dunno. Maybe.

Perhaps the K stands for 1943 and the 6 means the last two months Nov-Dec of the year. E means OEM equipment.

Yes, this seems to be the best fit.

 

[Oskari]

Monica Czausz: J. S. Bach: Prelude and Fugue in D major, BWV 532

 

[angpsi]

Hi guys, it's been a long time! Many twists and turns along the way, including a great stroke of luck which brought me a pair of Final's uber D8000 headphones.

In the meantime I decided to go solid-state, so I'm letting go of my small collection of tubes. Measured each and every one of them, and even paid to a professional service to double-check my own findings. If anyone in Elise / Euforia land wants to take advantage here's my ad: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/fs-eu-6sn7-6080-el12-sold-as-lot.889555/

 

[UntilThen]

Angpsi which ss amp?

I too have move on from Elise, Euforia. Bought and sold Ragnarok. Here's where I am at now.

Yggdrasil, Glenn OTL amp and Burson Audio Play with HD800, LCD-2f and HD650. DNA Stratus on order.

 

[UntilThen]

@angpsi here's a song to remember the good old days.

 

[angpsi]

Angpsi which ss amp?

I too have move on from Elise, Euforia. Bought and sold Ragnarok. Here's where I am at now.

Yggdrasil, Glenn OTL amp and Burson Audio Play with HD800, LCD-2f and HD650. DNA Stratus on order.

Hi UT,

Quite possibly I'll be looking at the Questyle CMA600i. I've listened to it on several occasions and even put it against similar DAC/amps such as the Mytek Brooklyn Plus, the M2Tech Young III, the Lindemann 10DSD, the Copland DAC205 and the Lab12 DAC1 and it has come consistently on top of the lot, both to my ears and to the ears of the friends who joined in this A-to-B. Also, the Questyle is the official DAC/amp of choice when Final showcases the D8000.

Honestly, I was getting out of the headphone game altogether but the D8000 came in (won them at the HiFi+ competition, if you can believe it!) and they're quite an amazing set of cans - you should really put them on your radar! Truth be told, at the moment I'm totally lacking the cash to maintain the hobby, especially at this echelon, so I've put them up for sale. But the longer I'm not getting any buyers, the more possible it looks that I'm keeping them and trying to shell out more cash for a quality DAC/amp to drive them with.

But that's how the hobby seems to roll, doesn't it?

Btw, how does the Burson Play fare against all the other great gear you carry?

 

[UntilThen]

The Questyle CMA600i retails for $1599 in this neck of the woods and no I have never heard of the Final D8000. I must be living in a monastery. That planar is from Japan?

I think luck is on your side having won the D8000. You should get a good dac / amp for it.

Speaking of which, the Burson Audio Play is good, cheap and incredible. It will go on to be a classic, just like the Breakfast Club.
Have a look at all the glowing reviews. https://www.head-fi.org/showcase/burson-audio-play.22702/reviews

Btw I bought it before I read the reviews. Audition it at Addicted To Audio against the Schitt Bifrost multibit and Jotunheim and prefer the Burson. Don't let the size deceive you. It outputs 2w into 16 ohms. Drives my LCD-2f like a kitten.

 

[UntilThen]

Honestly, I was getting out of the headphone game altogether

I could not get out of the headphone game even though I tried. I assemble up the HiFi system and got it good enough for my ears but I am just spending more time with my head-fi gear. When the DNA Stratus comes next year, I wouldn't where to put it.