eXStata DIY Electrostatic Amp for Intermediate DIYers
Jan 12, 2010 at 4:58 PM Post #2,041 of 2,970
Quote:

Originally Posted by studeb /img/forum/go_quote.gif
As a ball park, the phono stage of my Dyna Pas 3 has 40db gain @ 1k Hz. With a 5mV cart that is enough gain to go straight to the eXStatA amp. With a 0.5mV output cart it is not enough. Most phono stages these days seem to have 50+db gain, so unless you go to a lo output MC you are likely okay. If you can decide on the cart then you can figure out how much gain you will need in the phono section.


That's a good reference point then for moving magnet carts, since they tend to run around 5mV, like the Grado's (which are actually moving iron carts).

My cart is a moving coil, thus the low output at 0.3mV, which is why my phono stage has 64db of gain.
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 5:15 PM Post #2,042 of 2,970
Quote:

Originally Posted by runeight /img/forum/go_quote.gif
.... And, it would seem from the posts, quite a few folks were encouraged to try stats as a result of this amp's availability.


Exectly my case - I always dreamed of stats but always had the price in mind.
Even a used mid-class stat-amp + phones is very expensive compared to a dynamic setup.

As I heard of a affordable DIY-stat amp the dream of electrostatic headphones immediately lived up.
Although my exstata will surely cost more than 400€ I think its a very very good deal.
The cheapest stax amp costs about 500€ here in Germay - 500€ for a small, ugly and cheap-looking box...

Of course it could have been built for less money but since this is (hopefully :wink: ) my last headphone-amp ...
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 5:52 PM Post #2,043 of 2,970
I've never understood why people don't try vintage Stax. For my wallet, all new Stax except the SR-003 are too expensive. Yet a complete normal bias Lambda setup can easily be had for $250.
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 5:55 PM Post #2,044 of 2,970
Quote:

Originally Posted by sergery /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Never done the latter, how much does something basic run, can someone give me a ballpark idea? I feel like the amp deserves a better home.


Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
The prices varies wildly depending on options...


Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
'sandwich' the jack between a cavity in the front panel and the back piece...


HEH! It will cost me an extra $5.16 to do the cavities for a jack sandwich. I love Front Panel Designer......
biggrin.gif


Quote:

Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif
I've never understood why people don't try vintage Stax. For my wallet, all new Stax except the SR-003 are too expensive. Yet a complete normal bias Lambda setup can easily be had for $250.


That is the way I went. But I would much rather have new gear, assuming the cost/sound ratio is there. If anything goes wrong with the Lambdas (and something maybe already has), what can I do about it? Fixing a DIY amp myself is easy, fixing a mylar diaphragm...... well, not so much.
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 7:02 PM Post #2,045 of 2,970
Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
That is the way I went. But I would much rather have new gear, assuming the cost/sound ratio is there. If anything goes wrong with the Lambdas (and something maybe already has), what can I do about it? Fixing a DIY amp myself is easy, fixing a mylar diaphragm...... well, not so much.


Yeah, but new has the same problem once it's out of warranty.
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 7:13 PM Post #2,046 of 2,970
Quote:

Originally Posted by scompton /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Yeah, but new has the same problem once it's out of warranty.


At least with something newer, you can still buy the spare parts......
wink.gif
 
Jan 12, 2010 at 10:31 PM Post #2,048 of 2,970
Quote:

Originally Posted by TimJo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
That's a good reference point then for moving magnet carts, since they tend to run around 5mV, like the Grado's (which are actually moving iron carts).

My cart is a moving coil, thus the low output at 0.3mV, which is why my phono stage has 64db of gain.



ok, cool. Thanks for your replys. It sounds like you both hit about 500mV, which you are reporting is working well. I will aim for this output level when I am calculating gain of whatever stage I choose to feed exstata.

Thanks also to those who gave info re. FPE, I may just buy some Aluminum stock and cut/paint/drill myself. I guess I will make a panel design using the software to get an estimate either way.
 
Jan 13, 2010 at 10:21 PM Post #2,050 of 2,970
Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
HEH! It will cost me an extra $5.16 to do the cavities for a jack sandwich. I love Front Panel Designer......
biggrin.gif




That is the way I went. But I would much rather have new gear, assuming the cost/sound ratio is there. If anything goes wrong with the Lambdas (and something maybe already has), what can I do about it? Fixing a DIY amp myself is easy, fixing a mylar diaphragm...... well, not so much.



Unusual for something to go wrong with lambdas.

There are legions of damaged SR-X, SR-5 and SR-Gamma out there, but that's a different driver design.
 
Jan 14, 2010 at 12:59 AM Post #2,051 of 2,970
Regarding stax plug sizes, the older and lower end cables have the usual round plug, where the high end cables like on the SR404 LE have wider wire and they stick out a bit from the sides of the plug making it a kind of old school flying saucer type shape. Those sticky out bits might get in the way of your jack recess if you ever plan on getting phones with the fat cable.
 
Jan 14, 2010 at 3:24 AM Post #2,053 of 2,970
Quote:

Originally Posted by sumo-kun /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Regarding stax plug sizes, the older and lower end cables have the usual round plug, where the high end cables like on the SR404 LE have wider wire and they stick out a bit from the sides of the plug making it a kind of old school flying saucer type shape. Those sticky out bits might get in the way of your jack recess if you ever plan on getting phones with the fat cable.


Hmmmm, this is good to know. Thanks again
smily_headphones1.gif
 
Jan 14, 2010 at 3:26 PM Post #2,054 of 2,970
Quote:

Originally Posted by Beefy /img/forum/go_quote.gif
Oh, and just some notes on DC offset behaviour. On power up, there is a tiny spike, but it behaves very well.

On power down, there seems to be a lot more offset - it jumps up to ~30V before drifting down again



Quote:

Originally Posted by luvdunhill /img/forum/go_quote.gif
oh, I cannot imagine DC offset of those magnitudes being an issue.... compared to the very large "DC offset" that you're intentionally applying to the drivers
smily_headphones1.gif



So does this mean that with this amp it is safe to always leave your stats plugged in, and you can simply turn the amp on and off without worries?
 
Jan 14, 2010 at 3:31 PM Post #2,055 of 2,970
Quote:

Originally Posted by TimJo /img/forum/go_quote.gif
So does this mean that with this amp it is safe to always leave your stats plugged in, and you can simply turn the amp on and off without worries?


Yeah, it should be fine. I wasn't ever actually concerned about the offset, just reporting my findings
smily_headphones1.gif
 

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