[elwappo99]

  Every time I get an email notification that someone's added to this DC-1 thread I get excited because I always like to hear what Keith has to say. I'm using the DC-1 as my desktop computer system with JBL LSR305's and the LSR310S sub. I have nothing to add but to say that I've owned some pretty expensive systems and this one is easily my favorite. The imaging is what kicks my ass every time. These speakers with their wave guides and the Stealth ..just wow. It might not get as loud as a Klipschorn or have the chest thump of a set of stacked Advents pumping 1500 wpc, but it's perfect for what I need as an audio system in this room.
 
I also never turn my systems off. These machines have been on since I put them together about 10 months ago. My dad the HAM radio operator always told me that the thermal damage from cycling electronics was far worse than leaving them on 24/7. This was 50 years ago, and it's never done me wrong.

 
I'd be interested to see what Keith says about longevity. I believe the DC-1 always "stays on" to some extent when you leave it in stand-by mode, and the only way to turn it off is by turning the physical power switch in the back. 

 

[greenkiwi]

I'd also add that I really love how consistent the DC-1 has been. 
 
The big feature request I'd love to have is an option to have it auto select from the digital inputs.

 

[Sal1950]

  I'd also add that I really love how consistent the DC-1 has been. 
 
The big feature request I'd love to have is an option to have it auto select from the digital inputs.

Hard to do, what if system has an active data stream on more than one input at a time?

 

[greenkiwi]

I don't know if it is necessarily that hard to do... you'd just make policy choices.  For example, it would only change after the signal had been blank for 2 minutes.  It might or might not have an option to set weighting for inputs.  In the end, it wouldn't work for everyone, but I think that the more general use case probably doesn't have lots of inputs with active data streams all the time.

 

[MWSVette]

  I don't know if it is necessarily that hard to do... you'd just make policy choices.  For example, it would only change after the signal had been blank for 2 minutes.  It might or might not have an option to set weighting for inputs.  In the end, it wouldn't work for everyone, but I think that the more general use case probably doesn't have lots of inputs with active data streams all the time.

 
I use all six inputs on my DC-1 and several are always active.  I do not shut off other sources when I am switching back and forth between inputs.
 
I am sure I am not the only one... 

 

[KeithEmo]

   
I'd be interested to see what Keith says about longevity. I believe the DC-1 always "stays on" to some extent when you leave it in stand-by mode, and the only way to turn it off is by turning the physical power switch in the back. 

 
Yes, the DC-1 stays "mostly on" when its in standby.
 
Your longevity question is a little more complicated than it sounds when we're talking about complex electronic equipment. With a simple device, like a light bulb, leaving it running puts a certain amount of "wear and tear" on it, but so does the temperature cycle as it warms up and cools down, so you're balancing those two factors. (The usual wisdom used to be that turning a light bulb off and on again "uses up" about "one hour of life" - and so, if you're going to turn it off for less than an hour, you're better off leaving it turned on.)
 
This becomes less simple when you have lots of components on a circuit board and each acts differently. There are some components inside the DC-1 that have a life expectancy of ten or twenty years if left on cintinuously, but "feel wear and tear" from warming up and cooling down, while others essentially last indefinitely either way, and still others only "age" from temperature cycling. Therefore, trying to do the math and figure out which components will age fastest under which type of handling would get very complicated - and it will also vary depending on your room temperature and whether it's shut in a rack or has perfectly free air flow.
 
As a very general guideline, I don't tend to notice much difference (at least with our equipment) whether the unit is "warmed up" or not, so I turn it off when I'm not using it for a significant period of time. For example, I turn everything on when I'm planning to listen to music "for the day or evening". Once it's on, I then leave it on for the rest of the day or evening, and then turn it off before bed. (But I don't turn it off if I go out to dinner for an hour or decide to watch a TV show until I'm sure I'm not planning t use it again that day.)
 
As another generality, heat is always "the enemy of longevity", so if you have your equipment in a rack where it gets very warm, or you leave your air conditioner set to an "economy" setting, then I would be more inclined to turn it off if I notice it getting especially warm and I don't plan to listen to it for a while. (Personally I can't stand heat and humidity, so my AC is set for 74 degrees, and my equipment doesn't get especially warm.)

 

[Sal1950]

There ya go guys, Keith is 100% spot on on all points concerning temperature and heat cycling.
Since I never run my AC any cooler than 82-83 degrees I felt my DC-1 was running a little warmer than I felt comfortable with when left on 24/7.  I may add a small cooling fan at some point but in any case will follow the same procedure as Keith does with his equipment and shut it down when I don't intend to use it for a extended period of time. Saves ya a bit of $ on you power bill to boot.  

 

[RipcordAFF]

Question on the HP amp on the DC-1:
 
I am looking to replace a Bel Canto C5i that has been serving as my desktop speaker amp/HP amp/DAC for a number of years. I was originally planning on buying a Schiit Magni2\Mod2 Uber combo (whether I want to get a separate speaker amp or go for powered monitors remains undecided). However, I have since been contemplating moving my DC-1 from my 2-channel rig to my desktop. 
 
Before I rip everything apart to do some ABX testing, I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on whether the headphone amp in the DC-1 would be comparable to the Magni 2 Uber. 
 
Since I already know that I love the DC-1, and folks here seem to agree that the DAC is approximately equivalent to the Schiit Gungnir, I am confident that the DC-1 would more than replace the contemplated Modi 2. I am less sure, however, whether the DC-1 would be an adequate replacement for the Magni 2 Uber. 
 
My cans are fairly easy to drive (Philips X2) and, at least on paper, the power capabilities of the HP amp in the  Magni 2 Uber and the DC-1 are comparable (EMO - 7.1 VRMS max into 47 Ohms @ < 0.02% THD (1070 mW)\ Schiit - Maximum Power, 32 ohms: 1.2W RMS per channel
). What worries me is the oft-repeated message that the DC-1 HP amp is "so-so"\"good, but not great."
 
Recognizing that better, more expensive options certainly exist, can anyone comment on whether the HP amp in the DC-1 is comparable to the Magni 2 Uber? Ideally, I would just have the DC-1 on the desk, rather than the DC-1 doing DAC\PRE duty and the Magni 2 for HP amp duty, but I don't want to limit the performance of the X2.
 
Thanks in advance for any insight!

 

[kugino]

  Question on the HP amp on the DC-1:
 
I am looking to replace a Bel Canto C5i that has been serving as my desktop speaker amp/HP amp/DAC for a number of years. I was originally planning on buying a Schiit Magni2\Mod2 Uber combo (whether I want to get a separate speaker amp or go for powered monitors remains undecided). However, I have since been contemplating moving my DC-1 from my 2-channel rig to my desktop. 
 
Before I rip everything apart to do some ABX testing, I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on whether the headphone amp in the DC-1 would be comparable to the Magni 2 Uber. 
 
Since I already know that I love the DC-1, and folks here seem to agree that the DAC is approximately equivalent to the Schiit Gungnir, I am confident that the DC-1 would more than replace the contemplated Modi 2. I am less sure, however, whether the DC-1 would be an adequate replacement for the Magni 2 Uber. 
 
My cans are fairly easy to drive (Philips X2) and, at least on paper, the power capabilities of the HP amp in the  Magni 2 Uber and the DC-1 are comparable (EMO - 7.1 VRMS max into 47 Ohms @ < 0.02% THD (1070 mW)\ Schiit - Maximum Power, 32 ohms: 1.2W RMS per channel
). What worries me is the oft-repeated message that the DC-1 HP amp is "so-so"\"good, but not great."
 
Recognizing that better, more expensive options certainly exist, can anyone comment on whether the HP amp in the DC-1 is comparable to the Magni 2 Uber? Ideally, I would just have the DC-1 on the desk, rather than the DC-1 doing DAC\PRE duty and the Magni 2 for HP amp duty, but I don't want to limit the performance of the X2.
 
Thanks in advance for any insight!

i found the head amp ok, not great. for sensitive headphones they are quite noisy (lots of hiss)...you might want to find a dedicated head amp if you're primarily going to use sensitive headphones/earphones.

 

[ashutoshp]

  Question on the HP amp on the DC-1:
 
I am looking to replace a Bel Canto C5i that has been serving as my desktop speaker amp/HP amp/DAC for a number of years. I was originally planning on buying a Schiit Magni2\Mod2 Uber combo (whether I want to get a separate speaker amp or go for powered monitors remains undecided). However, I have since been contemplating moving my DC-1 from my 2-channel rig to my desktop. 
 
Before I rip everything apart to do some ABX testing, I was wondering if anyone has any thoughts on whether the headphone amp in the DC-1 would be comparable to the Magni 2 Uber. 
 
Since I already know that I love the DC-1, and folks here seem to agree that the DAC is approximately equivalent to the Schiit Gungnir, I am confident that the DC-1 would more than replace the contemplated Modi 2. I am less sure, however, whether the DC-1 would be an adequate replacement for the Magni 2 Uber. 
 
My cans are fairly easy to drive (Philips X2) and, at least on paper, the power capabilities of the HP amp in the  Magni 2 Uber and the DC-1 are comparable (EMO - 7.1 VRMS max into 47 Ohms @ < 0.02% THD (1070 mW)\ Schiit - Maximum Power, 32 ohms: 1.2W RMS per channel
). What worries me is the oft-repeated message that the DC-1 HP amp is "so-so"\"good, but not great."
 
Recognizing that better, more expensive options certainly exist, can anyone comment on whether the HP amp in the DC-1 is comparable to the Magni 2 Uber? Ideally, I would just have the DC-1 on the desk, rather than the DC-1 doing DAC\PRE duty and the Magni 2 for HP amp duty, but I don't want to limit the performance of the X2.
 
Thanks in advance for any insight!

FWIW, I use the DC-1 with my Fidelio L1s and I am usually listening at the -20 to -40 setting on the DC-1 with absolutely no hissing whatsoever. The X2s should be even easier because according to Innerfidelity, at 35 Ohms, you need ~0.089 VRMS to reach 90 dB SPL on the X2, compared to the L1s requirement of 0.139 VRMS at 28 Ohms. There is more than enough power and I'm not sure if the Magni is more of a sideways step than an upgrade.
However, if you feel the 'itch' to upgrade....oh dear........ 

 

 

[Sal1950]

   
Yes, the DC-1 stays "mostly on" when its in standby.
 
Your longevity question is a little more complicated than it sounds when we're talking about complex electronic equipment. With a simple device, like a light bulb, leaving it running puts a certain amount of "wear and tear" on it, but so does the temperature cycle as it warms up and cools down, so you're balancing those two factors. (The usual wisdom used to be that turning a light bulb off and on again "uses up" about "one hour of life" - and so, if you're going to turn it off for less than an hour, you're better off leaving it turned on.)
 
This becomes less simple when you have lots of components on a circuit board and each acts differently. There are some components inside the DC-1 that have a life expectancy of ten or twenty years if left on cintinuously, but "feel wear and tear" from warming up and cooling down, while others essentially last indefinitely either way, and still others only "age" from temperature cycling. Therefore, trying to do the math and figure out which components will age fastest under which type of handling would get very complicated - and it will also vary depending on your room temperature and whether it's shut in a rack or has perfectly free air flow.
 
As a very general guideline, I don't tend to notice much difference (at least with our equipment) whether the unit is "warmed up" or not, so I turn it off when I'm not using it for a significant period of time. For example, I turn everything on when I'm planning to listen to music "for the day or evening". Once it's on, I then leave it on for the rest of the day or evening, and then turn it off before bed. (But I don't turn it off if I go out to dinner for an hour or decide to watch a TV show until I'm sure I'm not planning t use it again that day.)
 
As another generality, heat is always "the enemy of longevity", so if you have your equipment in a rack where it gets very warm, or you leave your air conditioner set to an "economy" setting, then I would be more inclined to turn it off if I notice it getting especially warm and I don't plan to listen to it for a while. (Personally I can't stand heat and humidity, so my AC is set for 74 degrees, and my equipment doesn't get especially warm.)

A quick update on the heat issue I brought up recently. I really didn't want to add another cooling fan as my system is too noisy already so I looked at what else might be done. The DC-1s case does have some cooling slots on the bottom panel right where the greatest amount of heat is generated but they have rubber feet that are only .200 thick and for all intents block any convection air movement through these venting slots. I've ordered a set of Pangea Sorbothane feet that are  .750 tall and should offer much better natural air flow. IMHO Emotiva should offer some taller feet from the factory, along with a few more cooling slots on the bottom panel.
Still very much in love with the sound, maybe that's why she runs hot, it's always playing. LOL

 

[Armaegis]

This was my very very ghetto solution to raising my components to get more air cooling...
 

 
 
Cut up egg carton (also tried toilet paper rolls)

 

[Sal1950]

Beautiful in a ghetto sort of way. Now why didn't I think of that!

 

[shultzee]

  This was my very very ghetto solution to raising my components to get more air cooling...
 

 
 
Cut up egg carton (also tried toilet paper rolls)

Not sure my wife would be down with that look out in the open.   I would most likely be sent to the basement.

 

[Sal1950]

 
Not sure my wife would be down with that look out in the open.   I would most likely be sent to the basement.

shultzee,  Shame on you bro, stand up.
As the late great BB King sang,
 
As long as I'm workin', baby
And payin' all the bills
I don't want no mouth from you
About the way I'm supposed to live
You must be crazy, woman
Just gotta be out of your mind
As long as I'm footin' the bill
I'm paying the cost to be the boss