@UntilThen, very cool! Thanks for the link to Tube Sound Audio and the info about their build service and wooden panels! I do really like those panels and I might have to pick some up one day soon. I did mod my case years ago, both paint as well as with custom cooling air flow 80mm holes and dust filters, so maybe if I pick up a "R" version... I also agree, the 8200 has the look and feel (plus design) that you would expect from high quality Japanese kits.
I own a Darkvoice, pre-La Figaro, 336se, so I'm pretty familiar with their amps and have always wanted to hear/try the 399. Crazy, nice to hear it stacks up well and is even a bit better to your ears. The one thing I've found throughout the years is that the 8200 always impresses me when compared to other, and much more expensive, amps!
Yes, from the pictures your amp looks like the original, non-R, version. While I'm not sure how the headphone impedance switches compare to the original in terms of sound, many have run IEMs to very high ohm over the ears with great results on the original. It should be somewhere in this thread, but the rated ohm of the original version was something like 8-1000 ohms with no switch needed. So, I'm not sure why the switch is in the R version, but Victor would know or he could contact Mr. Fujita for more specifics; probably just more stable that way, etc. The big reason I know of to go with the newer "R" version instead is that I believe there are better protection circuits for when tubes fail. I have blown a FET in mine, due to a bad tube, and I know many others have as well, so having this protection can really be a time-saver!
I did hear the 8600 at RMAF a few years ago at Victor's table and it sounded very nice! It was a bit hard to get great impressions at that time, since it was a noisy environment and I also believe the unit was so new, it wasn't fully broken in yet. I'm more partial to the 8200 at the moment though personally, due to the small form factor and the tubes used; 300Bs are so darn expensive! I like to roll quite a few different types of tubes, so having more options, especially in the NOS arena, is a positive. However, I would suspect that the 8600 would run speakers very well and probably at least a bit better than the 8200. Like everything though, it really depends on your speakers and system synergy.
I agree,
@Dimu, has done some truly amazing things with the 8200, really bringing it when it comes to DIY! I wish I could help with your questions more and yes, I haven't seen
@Dimu post in quite awhile, but if you don't hear back, maybe Victor or someone who replicated his mods would know more. Dimu did post a lot of specifics in this thread, but most of it was very advanced modifications and should only be done at your own risk.
I have a few different pairs of GEC KT66s and they are very nice smooth sounding tubes. They don't have quite the slam/impact the KT88s do, but depending on genre of music, the KT66s can be quite amazing. Think more smooth jazz and classical, whereas electronic/rock for KT88s. As far as the 6L6s goes, I'm not entirely sure which can and can't be used. I've always just used the GCs, but jeez, I tend to like a lot of Brimar tubes, so those might sound really nice. Victor knows which tubes generally can and can't be used, so I'd check with him. Definitely look into trying other variants and brands of the 12au7s too, they can really make a difference and fine-tune the sound signature. Many really like the mids that EL34s give in the 8200, but I think they sound a bit dull in Triode mode and need UL mode to give them their spark.
That's funny about the output modes, and yes, I agree in regards to Triode for headphones on the 8200. Let us know what you think about Triode mode with your speakers though too! You may find the initial power/impact lacking, but it would depend on the speaker.