Propabaly not. More like 8 hours max in my experience - maybe less if playing Hi Res.I have a question to the AMP8Mk2s owners: how's the battery runing this with IEMs on a 4.4 balanced connection ? Can it reach 10 hours before having to charge ? I'm considering this over the Hiby R6 pro II because of the battery on the Hiby.
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DX240 DAP. DAC ES9038PRO - NEW: AMP8MK2S .****** NEW Firmware! 2.01 *******
- Thread starter Paul - iBasso
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Hi guys,
Is it worth to replace AMP8MK2S when I have AMP8MK2?
Is it worth to replace AMP8MK2S when I have AMP8MK2?
streets112
New Head-Fier
There is a difference between these two. I've only listened to full size headphones (HD650 and T5) and I like MK2S more. The sound character to me is very similar, but some of the details seem to be more upfront and the bass has more texture - the overall sound seems to be more complete with MK2S.Hi guys,
Is it worth to replace AMP8MK2S when I have AMP8MK2?
As far as full sized headphones go, I'd say it is worth to replace.
what he says. And this applies to IEMs too. I was very skeptical at first, but I am totally sold on the S now.
Hi mate. How did you weld the new caps? attached to the other two whites? Could you provide me the schematic so that I can do it myself too? I'd like to mod my amp8 MKII like yours. Thank you.I still prefer the ES caps on the L+R. Not as warm/dry for my interfaces. I like what I perceive as natural mid color. Viva la difference!
goodvibes
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1uf Silmic. Positive is at the board connector across the green caps. Yes, no problem tacking the 1uf ES caps onto the white caps. Do it a bit away from the board connection to not accidently desolder those. The ES caps are bipolar but they did sound a bit different one way that the other. I use the longer lead at the board connector side of the white caps. I think it was a bit dryer the other way. May depend on how you use the DX240. I now use Mango OS for my player. You may prefer them the other way for Android Mango but for stored files I prefer this and for Qobuz, Tidal etc, the difference isn't going to be meaningful. Who knows, they may have run in to sound the same either direction and it's kinda subtle.Hi mate. How did you weld the new caps? attached to the other two whites? Could you provide me the schematic so that I can do it myself too? I'd like to mod my amp8 MKII like yours. Thank you.
I 1st started swapping out what iBasso had done because i was looking for more solidity of position/specificity/color and found that It was going to be a task to revoice the board and get what I was looking for without getting silly about it so I put it all back as stock because the board itself is well voiced tonally if a bit dry. I then just added the other buts at values that seemed to not mess up the timing and give what I liked. It happens the 1uf for all 3 is what timed up for me. I use a 2.2uf silmic in place of the 22uf that's across the 220uf supply buffer cap on other boards.
So once I put it all back and decided that 1uf was what I liked in all the 3 add positions, I thought the silmics overall a bit to dry/warm so bought a few different other top 1uf electrolytics to try. 1st I tried were the ES caps in their current positions and just stopped other than spinning one to match direction. Never tried a 3rd one where the Silmic stayed or the other 2 I bought to test. It just sounded that good to me but as always, YMMV. I felt swapping the ES for the Silmic there would overdo it and lost interest in hearing the others. It just has the correct color for my sensibilities and enough note fill to use pure mango without compromising Android like with their better players.
Make sure to put an electrolytic of some sort across those solid green caps before adding any others elsewhere or you'll get a discharge sound on turnoff. Shouldn't hurt anything but really not something you want.
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goodvibes
Headphoneus Supremus
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Let me also say just how much I'm still in love with this player. Listening to some other things recently only confirms my feelings here. I suspect the new amp8 mk2s is more similarl to this.
I was just thinking today that the more I listen to my DX240 the better it seems to sounds.
I was always a little dubious about "burning-in" electronics, but although my initial feelings on this DAP were favourable, they did get better after having played a couple hundred hours of music.
Then I had to send it back to iBasso, due to a problem and when it returned it seemed to have gone back to its initial performance level. I suspect the unit was replaced with a new one.
But having used it for many more weeks it is now sounding better than it ever has.
I was always a little dubious about "burning-in" electronics, but although my initial feelings on this DAP were favourable, they did get better after having played a couple hundred hours of music.
Then I had to send it back to iBasso, due to a problem and when it returned it seemed to have gone back to its initial performance level. I suspect the unit was replaced with a new one.
But having used it for many more weeks it is now sounding better than it ever has.
And do you prefer Elna Silmic II over Nichicon Muse ES BP? I don't know about capacitors and for that I ask for your advice.Let me also say just how much I'm still in love with this player. Listening to some other things recently only confirms my feelings here. I suspect the new amp8 mk2s is more similarl to this.
And another question, which brand is the brown color capacitor on the picture? This is attached to the two upper greens, isn't it?
goodvibes
Headphoneus Supremus
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It's not that easy. I know some will swear by this or that part but at this level it's about voicing and finding the right horse for a course. There's a reason that you'll see different solid and wet caps on iBasso's own circuits. It's an indication that they care and have done their own voicing beyond circuit design. They would have the same specs without the added bits floating off the board. Can I do this better than iBasso? Absolutely not, which gives me a bit of pause about posting these things here. I've never built my own amp from scratch outside of supplying chips etc which is a far cry from these circuits. I have found errors in other things but that's not the same.And do you prefer Elna Silmic II over Nichicon Muse ES BP? I don't know about capacitors and for that I ask for your advice.
And another question, which brand is the brown color capacitor on the picture? This is attached to the two upper greens, isn't it?
Both these Caps are excellent quality. ES have more color (not colored but relative to the dryer/warmer sounding Silmic) Use the one (or something else) that voices best for your sensibilities and use in circuit but it's not just tonality. Timing and perspective are more important to me. More is not better but also depends on your take on this. A little larger like 2.2uf will sound worse here, in any of these positions (not time as well) but sometimes going 22uf or larger will parallel fine. I found that I like a 2.2uf Silmic in place of the stock 22uf across the 220uf on other boards but prefer 1uf across the solid bits here. I tend to like somewhere between 200 to 100-1 when bypassing as opposed to adding more and effectively changing value. I generally prefer the bypass route to the large parallel (changing value/adding fill) route but YMMV and ultimately, what works best may as well. I personally feel that this way, when successful, tends to better maintain PRaT. Examples would be what I did with amp1 and amp3 for giggles. I removed the large Silmics in the amp 3 and used smaller solid caps there but found those larger silmics sounded better in the Amp1 I had so there's is not an absolute way to go best here. Depends on what you're after but what's already there is pretty great.
I'm not a super tweak and don't try and mod everything I own, LOL. Just a current path with this dap that I really enjoy.
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Okay great. Well, I already bought the material to make the mod. The three Nichicon ES capacitors. As soon as they arrive I get to work
And the last question. is this brown capacitor also "50V 1uf" like the other two? Like the two green?
Thank you again
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lantian
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Pretty sure it's 2.2uf silmic
And the last question. is this brown capacitor also "50V 1uf" like the other two? Like the two green?
Thank you again
I'd like to know sure to buy the same, of course.
goodvibes
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Nope. 1uf 50v Silmic is what I used here. 2.2uf didn't blend as well as it does across the 220uf on the other boards...IMOPretty sure it's 2.2uf silmic
D.J. Core preferred 3 Silmics which was my 1st iteration so you can try that as well but I personally prefer the color of the ES caps across the white ones. I found doing all Silmics a little dry overall. Either allows favorable Pure Mango operation.
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