[furyossa]

During the last sale i was undecided between the 300ohm DLC and the Super One drivers and in the end i decided to buy the latter because i was afraid that the rigid carbon membrane couldn't do bass well enough for my taste ( + they are being sold for way too much on Ali since you can find them for close to 5$ in other Asian stores...)

I kinda regret it now since the Super one drivers required an incredible amount of work to convert to MX500 and they turned out to be fairly disappointing albeit very good looking!

IMO, I think that the drivers from this new series go in this order, bass wise : Bery, DLC, LCP

 

[BotByte]

During the last sale i was undecided between the 300ohm DLC and the Super One drivers and in the end i decided to buy the latter because i was afraid that the rigid carbon membrane couldn't do bass well enough for my taste ( + they are being sold for way too much on Ali since you can find them for close to 5$ in other Asian stores...)

I kinda regret it now since the Super one drivers required an incredible amount of work to convert to MX500 and they turned out to be fairly disappointing albeit very good looking!

I feel ya! I was debating the same, but I like to spread out. I have too many titanium drivers already, wanted something different and then CARBON NANO TOOOOBS and went for them.

That's why I wanted to report on these drivers. I took the risk, it paid off. I rec them big time for folks who want that "L-shape" sound. Probably my go-to drivers for electronic music.

Great first impression. Be sure to post your build (beauty shot) and link for the driver.
Anyway... keep up good work

Thanks!

The driver link is in the post.

I'll be working on a build... I've got two available aluminum shells and I just don't know if I want to go more open to expand soundstage and bass, or close down to maximize the natural soundstage and improve bass texture. But I will post my final build when it's done!

 

[sfrsfr]

Regarding the 120Ω Be drivers. They come with the larger modded PK shells and covers that are 16.7mm O.D.

I was able to safely remove the drivers and swap them into the smaller stainless steel covers 16.1-16.3mm O.D. They do have some glue holding them in and fortunately I had no mishaps.

What I did find interesting is that the MFG added an extra spacer between the driver and the inside of the cover. If you look at the picture below there is an extra brass ring that was glued in before the driver was placed. This ring is the same that is used to hold the diaphragm material around the outside edge, I placed my bad N55 64Ω driver next to the ring removed from the cover.



I wonder if it is just to prevent contact between the diaphragm and the cover or perhaps it allows for some additional soundstage and/or other sound tuning. It may take someone with better ears than me to tell. Plus I'm not going to swap the drivers back and forth to test.


Took a few minutes to take a couple quick measurements of these via my BT20S both with and without EQ & +3.0db on the bass tuner of the Wavelet app. These are the settings I came up with by ear to my preference. I switch between the red & blue graphed settings.



White = via USB-C DAC
Green = BT20S
Red = BT20S & EQ
Blue = BT20S, EQ & +3.0db bass

Could anyone share specific ways they tuned the 120Ω Be drivers?
I'm going to build them this weekend so fishing for tips to speed up the process.

 

[sfrsfr]

RY4S UE inside. No tuning apart horse shoe foam .
Anyone knows these drivers (32 ohm, 95dB)?

 

[sfrsfr]

IMO, I think that the drivers from this new series go in this order, bass wise : Bery, DLC, LCP

What new series? Share more info and links, please.

 

[BotByte]

RY4S UE inside. No tuning apart horse shoe foam .
Anyone knows these drivers (32 ohm, 95dB)?

They're typically called EMX500 drivers.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000443651531.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32979009902.html

A few brands use the same driver.

 

[sfrsfr]

They're typically called EMX500 drivers.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000443651531.html
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32979009902.html

A few brands use the same driver.

Then I should open my Fengru EMX500 to see if the drivers are the same. But interestingly they don't sound exactly the same (as far as I remember).

 

[Rary]

Then I should open my Fengru EMX500 to see if the drivers are the same. But interestingly they don't sound exactly the same (as far as I remember).

You might have received a fake Fengru EMX500 like i did. This is what i found in my pair:

 

[irv003]

You might have received a fake Fengru EMX500 like i did. This is what i found in my pair:

True, the build looks similar but they dont have same sound quality.

 

[assassin10000]

Could anyone share specific ways they tuned the 120Ω Be drivers?
I'm going to build them this weekend so fishing for tips to speed up the process.

I might be the only one who has?

In any case, I didn't have any of the white horseshoe tuning cotton, so everything I did was shell related. No fillers (poly/cotton/etc.) since it was a plastic shell, I think I experimented with both foam and different porous medical tapes for the vents. I also MMCX modded the shells.

 

[rprodrigues]

I might be the only one who has?

In any case, I didn't have any of the white horseshoe tuning cotton, so everything I did was shell related. No fillers (poly/cotton/etc.) since it was a plastic shell, I think I experimented with both foam and different porous medical tapes for the vents. I also MMCX modded the shells.

Likely...

As you told us 32 Ohm TI drivers are a better choice, most has avoided the 120 Ohm Bery (my case).

 

[assassin10000]

Likely...

As you told us 32 Ohm TI drivers are a better choice, most has avoided the 120 Ohm Bery (my case).

That and the increasingly harder to source 150Ω redfilm.

Granted if I had a dap or amp setup it may have been better with more power (for control and dynamics). But I only had an old Samsung S5, my ddhifi tc35b/pixel3xl and Lenovo laptop for sources.

 

[sfrsfr]

I might be the only one who has?

In any case, I didn't have any of the white horseshoe tuning cotton, so everything I did was shell related. No fillers (poly/cotton/etc.) since it was a plastic shell, I think I experimented with both foam and different porous medical tapes for the vents. I also MMCX modded the shells.

I got the drivers with some tuning cotton on them and I just closed the bass vents with micropore tape. I do have powerful enough amps to drive them properly. I will report back when the build is finished.

 

[Into The Light5]

Ok folks, here's my impression of the new 15.4mm 300ohm DLC carbon nano tube drivers.


https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003536966575.html

The short: TOTL right out of the bag. Best bass I have, a little warmth in mids, highs are articulate without being piercing. Good soundstage, accuracy, positioning, while staying smooth and detailed. "L-shaped" sound, maybe? Bass with neutral mids and highs.

I was curious of these drivers so I grabbed a pair. The 300ohm, because for a few bucks more, why not?

Tuning: Swapped these into some stock MX500 shells. RY cable with proper air, shell with just horseshoe foam, nothing special. The drivers on NSC have foam behind them, other stores like Chitty's show no foam. Haven't adjusted this yet.

Bass: MASSIVE SURPRISE. I swapped these for my 64ohm composite Ti drivers, and I'll say they match the bass output. Good power, articulate. And -- dare I say it -- the bass reaches DEEPER. 64ohm comp-ti reaches low already for earbuds, but these reach just a touch lower. My deep-sub-bass test song is Phantom by Justice. There's some absurdly low <30hz rumble in this track that even many IEMs can't hit. 64ohm comp-ti touches some of that rumble; DLC 300ohm hits it, like dead on. No bloat like Fiio FH3s or Mangird Teas; just solid rumble. Mid-bass has good power, but doesn't bleed into the mids too much. Now, I think 130ohm berry has better defined bass, at the cost of less power behind them. The DLC 300ohm remind me of a mix between 64ohm full ti rivet mod with their bass and soundstage, and 64ohm comp-ti with their depth and accuracy. @Rary get these!

Mids: The mids are rather similar to the 64ohm comp-ti. Good presence, articulation. There's a good amount of space and soundstage with the mids, maybe at the off-set of making guitars and vocals seem a little soft. But I say this as someone who likes peaks in the mids, so from a neutral standpoint, I'd say these drivers have a great tonality throughout. Nothing offensive, not veiled, but smooth and a good amount of space without feeling distant. Compared to the 130ohms that just throw details at you, these DLC 300ohm are an easier listen. I found myself enjoying female vocals more on these compared male vocals--maybe a touch more in the upper-mids versus lower mids. Pianos sound amazing on these!

Highs: Similar to the 64ohm comp-it as they're unoffensive, but have nice definition and sparkle when it's called for. Not as much extension as 130ohm berry, but those drivers can have offensive treble for treble-sensitive folks due to their extension. Cymbals still strike well, high hats and whatnot. For the most part, the highs carry the same as the mids: Smooth and present, with some width and depth, but maybe not as detailed as more aggressive drivers out there.

Soundstage/detail/staging/accuracy: These rather remind me of red-dot 19/21 with (as stock) very good soundstage and positioning. Good width and expansion. Accuracy is on-point. Something about the soundstage and smoothness lends them well to not-so-well recorded music, and easier listening. 130ohm berry, in comparison, force detail on you and can feel a bit aggressive and badly recorded songs just sound bad due to them revealing EVERYTHING. The DLC 300ohm are a bit more laid back, doesn't throw the faults as much.

Closing thoughts: I still have some time to spend with these, driver burn-in or brain burn-in. But from the bag, I'm really enjoying these drivers. These are going to become my go-to earbuds for bassy, easy listening. They're an easy recommendation for folks wanting TOTL bass drivers. I'd recommend these over 64ohm comp-ti in a heartbeat.

My 300 ohm dlc is already here, i got every part except the cable, since i mention im gonna build a "CAX zoomfred" inspired looks, my mogami 2799 still on the way, and look exactly like zoomfred cable, but we never know right?

Anyway how is it compared to 600ohm papa bery? especially the soundstage, or how do u mod urs to have a huge soundstage? im eager to learn modding, all i know for now are just horseshoe damper, and housing drill. is there any specific thing i should do to tune these DLC drivers?

I buy several local earbuds just to see how they tune, i had an abnormal t2 before, there is a small drill hole on the housing at the bottom near the driver. also had a willsound mk2 before.
thx before

 

[Into The Light5]

im glad i went for rhodium plug for my DLC build (plug by PAPRI), and a mogami cable, i hope it add a bit of treble for the L shape sound of the DLC driver (sry for the crappy picture)
I seriously cant wait for my cable