This it's the right 19-21 speaker which is being talked about on the forum? I bought the one in the picture I postedYep, in nsc, there is red dot, pink dot, and maybe a green dot![]()
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DIY Earbuds
- Thread starter gwompki
- Start date
captione
100+ Head-Fier
Yup, I have 3 variants as @Themilkman46290 said.19-21 driver that you have it's other than this?
32ohms green dot
32 ohms pink dot (32ohms Titanium, "upgrade" of the red dot, or side variant)
64ohms black dot (64ohm Titanium, "upgrade" for the green dot)
and my 32ohms red dot drivers are now in transit waiting to be build.
There is also a composite version of the red dot that @Themilkman46290 made. I skipped collecting it for now because I already have the full titanium pink dot. Dunno which of these two are actually "upgrades" to the red dot though.
I'll post comparisons once I finished the red dot.
the OG EMX500 was 14.8mm driver not 15.4mm
When you dissected these drivers did you manage to not damage the covers?
Woah, 14.8mm??? That's wild. I did a similar size out of spec build using 14.8mm drivers into 15.4mm faceplates but seeing that into mass production? Man that's crazy! Wish I started the hobby earlier...
Maybe not out-of-spec, but I do see some 14.8mm MX500 models, like the reports of Moondrop Shiroyuki being one.
On the subject of saving faceplates though, I don't think it's possible, I've been transplanting my drivers with the risk of breaking its own faceplate. There's some drivers that I managed to pull without damaging the drivers tho, I think I did that on the Yuin SR Pro drivers. It all depends on the glue they're using to stick em after all.
Did you try stressing the faceplate lips around the drivers? Seems like a possible solution but a bit risky...
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Yup I tried that. Both driver (EMX500 and HE150) have broken voice coil wire ... I think.Yup, I have 3 variants as @Themilkman46290 said.
32ohms green dot
32 ohms pink dot (32ohms Titanium, "upgrade" of the red dot, or side variant)
64ohms black dot (64ohm Titanium, "upgrade" for the green dot)
and my 32ohms red dot drivers are now in transit waiting to be build.
There is also a composite version of the red dot that @Themilkman46290 made. I skipped collecting it for now because I already have the full titanium pink dot. Dunno which of these two are actually "upgrades" to the red dot though.
I'll post comparisons once I finished the red dot.
Woah, 14.8mm??? That's wild. I did a similar size out of spec build using 14.8mm drivers into 15.4mm faceplates but seeing that into mass production? Man that's crazy! Wish I started the hobby earlier...
On the subject of saving faceplates though, I don't think it's possible, I've been transplanting my drivers with the risk of breaking its own faceplate. There's some drivers that I managed to pull without damaging the drivers tho, I think I did that on the Yuin SR Pro drivers. It all depends on the glue they're using to stick em after all.
Did you try stressing the faceplate lips around the drivers? Seems like a possible solution but a bit risky...
I plan to try to poor Aceton (Nail Polish Remover) where the driver touches the shell. It removes the glue perfectly.
EMX500 was the first driver with "wow" effect that I tried. It's not better than PK1 "red film" but maybe a bit better than PK2.
Still, the "first love" is hard to forget
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Thank you! This will be my next purchase together with 64 ohm ti and 68 ohmYup, I have 3 variants as @Themilkman46290 said.
32ohms green dot
32 ohms pink dot (32ohms Titanium, "upgrade" of the red dot, or side variant)
64ohms black dot (64ohm Titanium, "upgrade" for the green dot)
and my 32ohms red dot drivers are now in transit waiting to be build.
There is also a composite version of the red dot that @Themilkman46290 made. I skipped collecting it for now because I already have the full titanium pink dot. Dunno which of these two are actually "upgrades" to the red dot though.
I'll post comparisons once I finished the red dot.
Woah, 14.8mm??? That's wild. I did a similar size out of spec build using 14.8mm drivers into 15.4mm faceplates but seeing that into mass production? Man that's crazy! Wish I started the hobby earlier...
Maybe not out-of-spec, but I do see some 14.8mm MX500 models, like the reports of Moondrop Shiroyuki being one.
On the subject of saving faceplates though, I don't think it's possible, I've been transplanting my drivers with the risk of breaking its own faceplate. There's some drivers that I managed to pull without damaging the drivers tho, I think I did that on the Yuin SR Pro drivers. It all depends on the glue they're using to stick em after all.
Did you try stressing the faceplate lips around the drivers? Seems like a possible solution but a bit risky...
assassin10000
Headphoneus Supremus
Yup I tried that. Both driver (EMX500 and HE150) have broken voice coil wire ... I think.
I plan to try to poor Aceton (Nail Polish Remover) where the driver touches the shell. It removes the glue perfectly.
EMX500 was the first driver with "wow" effect that I tried. It's not better than PK1 "red film" but maybe a bit better than PK2.
Still, the "first love" is hard to forget![]()
I'd be worried the acetone could damage the membrane. But it's not like the fumes of superglue that definitely will.
Perhaps try a q-tip wipe first instead of soaking it?
That's the plan. I will use a syringe and a needle but before that I will tape the vents so that the liquid does not pass to the membraneI'd be worried the acetone could damage the membrane. But it's not like the fumes of superglue that definitely will.
Perhaps try a q-tip wipe first instead of soaking it?
Themilkman46290
1000+ Head-Fier
Noooo, I tried something like that, bad idea, not enough control, didn't realize until I pulled the faceplateThat's the plan. I will use a syringe and a needle but before that I will tape the vents so that the liquid does not pass to the membrane
A good aquarelle brush, in 01 or 00 size is ideal
In general, the smallest aquarelle brush is much better (they are made to hold water until you touch the tip) syringes squirt making them harder to control, a brush releases but don't soak
Did you manage to separate the driver that way? Can the liquid pass to the glue at all?Noooo, I tried something like that, bad idea, not enough control, didn't realize until I pulled the faceplate
A good aquarelle brush, in 01 or 00 size is ideal
In general, the smallest aquarelle brush is much better (they are made to hold water until you touch the tip) syringes squirt making them harder to control, a brush releases but don't soak
Themilkman46290
1000+ Head-Fier
It got on the diaphragm, lost the driversDid you manage to separate the driver that way? Can the liquid pass to the glue at all?
Sam L
Headphoneus Supremus
Hey Everyone, I wanted to chime in with some observations regarding some buds @assassin10000 put together. I've been meaning to do a more detailed writeup but priorities have shifted, leaving me with very little time to experiment and share things on headfi. ![Frowning2 :frowning2: :frowning2:](https://cdn.head-fi.org/e/people/frowning2.svg)
120ohm Beryllium by @assassin10000
I'll try to post some nice pictures up later when I get back home. I'm sure assassin10000 has some pics in this thread somewhere of his approach to adding mmcx sockets to earbud shells. For those that don't know, he shortens the stem right up to the driver housing. This results in a clean, more user-friendly result as compared to how RY4S does it with the cable sleeve adding quite a bit more length to the unaltered stems -- too long for my tastes.
The overall tonality is lean and analytical, particularly in the context of earbuds. A parallel would be the hifiman re400 or ety er2se among the IEM space. That's not to say these buds sound like either of those items, but it's a good parallel as to how they sound in the context of the format.
Here's the FR:
![diy 120ohm bery.jpg diy 120ohm bery.jpg](https://cdn.head-fi.org/a/11400883_thumb.jpg)
Another thing to get out of the way is that these buds require some serious power to drive well. They will sound lifeless and constrained on lesser-powered devices. Which may be a challenge for some mobile users. My qudelix 5k balanced output and my Oppo HA-2 work but more power is preferred. I mostly use a pico amp in the neighborhood of 1 watt at 32 ohm.
Bass is lean but sufficiently present when powered properly, with some sub-bass rolloff as the graph shows. Mid and upper bass is fast and very clear. The stock tuning from 20hz to 2.5khz is fantastic, a rarity among the 20 or so buds I've measured and graphed.
Clarity and resolution are great throughout the FR. The main weakness of these buds is the soundstage. I think this mainly has to do with the two notches at 4k and 9k, which are both too deep. The sonic recession in both these regions affect staging prominently and is the main correction I use with these buds. I should note here that I correct every iem and earbud in my possession, so this is not a slight against the sound quality of these buds. My iems are normalized to oratory1990 target and my earbuds are currently targeted to my own v1.5 curve. Other than soundstage, the stock tuning of these buds is excellent. Good job, @assassin10000!
This v1.5 bass version compensation curve adds some bass and improves the soundstage considerably:
120ohm Beryllium by @assassin10000
I'll try to post some nice pictures up later when I get back home. I'm sure assassin10000 has some pics in this thread somewhere of his approach to adding mmcx sockets to earbud shells. For those that don't know, he shortens the stem right up to the driver housing. This results in a clean, more user-friendly result as compared to how RY4S does it with the cable sleeve adding quite a bit more length to the unaltered stems -- too long for my tastes.
The overall tonality is lean and analytical, particularly in the context of earbuds. A parallel would be the hifiman re400 or ety er2se among the IEM space. That's not to say these buds sound like either of those items, but it's a good parallel as to how they sound in the context of the format.
Here's the FR:
![diy 120ohm bery.jpg diy 120ohm bery.jpg](https://cdn.head-fi.org/a/11400883_thumb.jpg)
Another thing to get out of the way is that these buds require some serious power to drive well. They will sound lifeless and constrained on lesser-powered devices. Which may be a challenge for some mobile users. My qudelix 5k balanced output and my Oppo HA-2 work but more power is preferred. I mostly use a pico amp in the neighborhood of 1 watt at 32 ohm.
Bass is lean but sufficiently present when powered properly, with some sub-bass rolloff as the graph shows. Mid and upper bass is fast and very clear. The stock tuning from 20hz to 2.5khz is fantastic, a rarity among the 20 or so buds I've measured and graphed.
Clarity and resolution are great throughout the FR. The main weakness of these buds is the soundstage. I think this mainly has to do with the two notches at 4k and 9k, which are both too deep. The sonic recession in both these regions affect staging prominently and is the main correction I use with these buds. I should note here that I correct every iem and earbud in my possession, so this is not a slight against the sound quality of these buds. My iems are normalized to oratory1990 target and my earbuds are currently targeted to my own v1.5 curve. Other than soundstage, the stock tuning of these buds is excellent. Good job, @assassin10000!
This v1.5 bass version compensation curve adds some bass and improves the soundstage considerably:
![1610468858362.png 1610468858362.png](https://cdn.head-fi.org/a/11401558.png)
assassin10000
Headphoneus Supremus
Hey Everyone, I wanted to chime in with some observations regarding some buds @assassin10000 put together. I've been meaning to do a more detailed writeup but priorities have shifted, leaving me with very little time to experiment and share things on headfi.
120ohm Beryllium by @assassin10000
I'll try to post some nice pictures up later when I get back home. I'm sure assassin10000 has some pics in this thread somewhere of his approach to adding mmcx sockets to earbud shells. For those that don't know, he shortens the stem right up to the driver housing. This results in a clean, more user-friendly result as compared to how RY4S does it with the cable sleeve adding quite a bit more length to the unaltered stems -- too long for my tastes.
The overall tonality is lean and analytical, particularly in the context of earbuds. A parallel would be the hifiman re400 or ety er2se among the IEM space. That's not to say these buds sound like either of those items, but it's a good parallel as to how they sound in the context of the format.
Here's the FR:
Another thing to get out of the way is that these buds require some serious power to drive well. They will sound lifeless and constrained on lesser-powered devices. Which may be a challenge for some mobile users. My qudelix 5k balanced output and my Oppo HA-2 work but more power is preferred. I mostly use a pico amp in the neighborhood of 1 watt at 32 ohm.
Bass is lean but sufficiently present when powered properly, with some sub-bass rolloff as the graph shows. Mid and upper bass is fast and very clear. The stock tuning from 20hz to 2.5khz is fantastic, a rarity among the 20 or so buds I've measured and graphed.
Clarity and resolution are great throughout the FR. The main weakness of these buds is the soundstage. I think this mainly has to do with the two notches at 4k and 9k, which are both too deep. The sonic recession in both these regions affect staging prominently and is the main correction I use with these buds. I should note here that I correct every iem and earbud in my possession, so this is not a slight against the sound quality of these buds. My iems are normalized to oratory1990 target and my earbuds are currently targeted to my own v1.5 curve. Other than soundstage, the stock tuning of these buds is excellent. Good job, @assassin10000!
This v1.5 bass version compensation curve adds some bass and improves the soundstage considerably:
![]()
This is the only pic I have saved.
![IMG_20200902_154316.jpg IMG_20200902_154316.jpg](https://cdn.head-fi.org/a/11401615_thumb.jpg)
Damn glue! I hope that some universal solution will appear to avoid this problem. Sambat already has an interesting modular solution, but definitely more different solutions are neededIt got on the diaphragm, lost the drivers
assassin10000
Headphoneus Supremus
captione
100+ Head-Fier
Breaking faceplates is the only way to goDamn glue! I hope that some universal solution will appear to avoid this problem. Sambat already has an interesting modular solution, but definitely more different solutions are needed
![Man shrugging :man_shrugging: 🤷♂️](https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f937-2642.png)
But the brush method for applying acetone seems more effective. A bit more finesse is required though.
Same goes for the xacto knife.
Maybe doing both methods might give you better results, like do the brush method and finishing off with the knife to remove sticky bits.
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Hey everyone, I am looking for a recommendation for a budget earbud for 30$ max. I prefer there to be an mmcx connector and metal housing, although none of them is obligatory. I currently own a pair of S****r PT15, and I am looking for something with more bass, and more detailed highs. Initially, I was considering buying JCALLY EP05, RY4S, FENGRU DIY EMX500, or TMUSIC Beryllium. I originally posted my question on the " Earbuds Round-Up" thread, but I was suggested to post it here too because I don't mind assembling my own. Is there a combination of parts you would suggest to me, that is worth over the already assembled ones? Somebody recommended I check the name OPENHEART, and I can see they have several assembled ones, with metal housing, and mmcx. Are any of them something I should consider buying?
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