DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Apr 2, 2017 at 3:25 AM Post #6,676 of 10,535
  So when Y'all are using the rean, etc. mini-XLRs, what cable are you using?  I have the standard star quad from both mogami and canare, and both seem to be 1-2mm larger than the largest jacked diameter that rean says works with their XLRs.  I have verified this myself my dint of spending about forty minutes trimming bits off of the clamp/chuck part, and other such things.  How do you make this work?  Or is the answer just buy some skinnier cable?

look at my photo again
i'm using stock grado cable 
i trim about 1/2" (or enough to cover with the blue strain relief)
and just the 4 inner wires without the outer insulation and sheilding
to fit the connector over, if the threaded end doesn't fit that and be trimmed 
does that make sense?
in other words only the inner wires get clamped and only the threaded part covers the full width of the star quad
 
Apr 2, 2017 at 8:58 AM Post #6,677 of 10,535
  look at my photo again
i'm using stock grado cable 
i trim about 1/2" (or enough to cover with the blue strain relief)
and just the 4 inner wires without the outer insulation and sheilding
to fit the connector over, if the threaded end doesn't fit that and be trimmed 
does that make sense?
in other words only the inner wires get clamped and only the threaded part covers the full width of the star quad


​I used stock star quad, not mini, but only the four wires go into the connector as Arty says.
I tried to warn folks when I brought this up that it was for more experienced cable builders. I also had photos showing a four wire braid using 24 awg wire, braid and all but that braid stops inside the boot then the wires are straight, I hope that helps.
 
Apr 2, 2017 at 1:48 PM Post #6,678 of 10,535
I just cut the cable above the coil on my Sony MDR-7506 and installed an Amphenol plug. When I turn the sound up and down while something is playing, I hear a short static click. What could be the issue?

Edit : Actually it seems to happen while playing this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNf9nzvnd1k
But not when I play a video where someone is talking with light music in the background. Did I do something wrong?
 
Apr 2, 2017 at 2:03 PM Post #6,679 of 10,535
  I just cut the cable above the coil on my Sony MDR-7506 and installed an Amphenol plug. When I turn the sound up and down while something is playing, I hear a short static click. What could be the issue?

Edit : Actually it seems to happen while playing this : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNf9nzvnd1k
But not when I play a video where someone is talking with light music in the background. Did I do something wrong?

Are you clicking on a certain part of the sound pattern as you go along? It is natural to have some pops there but otherwise the sound itself is quite smooth. If you are getting noise as the program runs by itself, I would look for poor solders. Most everything has a frequency at which it will vibrate (resonant frequency).  If you are running through a DAC, there are times where I will get noise till I turn the dac off then back on when dealing with computer sound as well.
 
Apr 2, 2017 at 2:06 PM Post #6,680 of 10,535
  Are you clicking on a certain part of the sound pattern as you go along? It is natural to have some pops there but otherwise the sound itself is quite smooth. If you are getting noise as the program runs by itself, I would look for poor solders. Most everything has a frequency at which it will vibrate (resonant frequency).  If you are running through a DAC, there are times where I will get noise till I turn the dac off then back on when dealing with computer sound as well.


Everything is fine. I fetched a pair of old SkullCandy earbuds I had completely forgotten about and they do the same thing. I'm relieved. I guess I'm a little bit paranoid about messing things up since I've never done this before.
 
Apr 2, 2017 at 2:12 PM Post #6,681 of 10,535
 
Everything is fine. I fetched a pair of old SkullCandy earbuds I had completely forgotten about and they do the same thing. I'm relieved. I guess I'm a little bit paranoid about messing things up since I've never done this before.

Lol, that was going to be my next question." Did you have this issue before you built the cable."
 
Staying in that sound range is fine, go down to 15 hertz and you are getting into infrasound and getting close to the resonant frequency of the human eye.  Some large mammals use those frequencies to communicate and you can feel it more than hear it.
 
Apr 2, 2017 at 6:00 PM Post #6,682 of 10,535
Hi all,
 
I want to build a RCA cable and I'd like to have both channels in the same cable to make cable management easier. 
 
I was thinking of ordering a lenght of 2534 Mogami cable. This cable has 4 conductors + a shield (let's call them 1,2,3,4, & S).
 
What would I be better off doing:
 
A- 1-L+, 2-L-, 3-R+, 4-R-, do nothing with S;
 
B- 1-L+, 2-L-, 3-R+, 4-R-, split S and connect it to both L- and R-
 
C- 1+2-L+, 3+4-R+, split S and connect it to both L- and R-
 
Thanks for your help!
 
Apr 2, 2017 at 6:31 PM Post #6,683 of 10,535
I like option D. Use option C but only connect the shield to the source end. Do not connect to destination end otherwise you have a loop that can act as an antenna.

Oops I skimmed that a bit fast. Option B and the shield to source end.

Then mark the cable with an arrow from source. My next favorite option is C, that works all right as well depending on conditions.
 
Apr 2, 2017 at 6:37 PM Post #6,684 of 10,535
I like option D. Use option C but only connect the shield to the source end. Do not connect to destination end otherwise you have a loop that can act as an antenna.

Oops I skimmed that a bit fast. Option B and the shield to source end.

Then mark the cable with an arrow from source. My next favorite option is C, that works all right as well depending on conditions.

Makes sense!
 
Thanks for your help and your quick answer!!
 
Apr 2, 2017 at 6:47 PM Post #6,685 of 10,535
Np I am outside on an iPhone or I would have read more carefully. If you have any issues at all pm me. I build all aux cables using this method and as many as 8 pair in close proximity.
 
Apr 2, 2017 at 7:31 PM Post #6,686 of 10,535
Np I am outside on an iPhone or I would have read more carefully. If you have any issues at all pm me. I build all aux cables using this method and as many as 8 pair in close proximity.

Sounds good, thanks again!
 
Apr 3, 2017 at 12:11 AM Post #6,687 of 10,535
Hey everyone,
 
I've spent a good week doing research for my first recabling and I've run into a small snag. I've repainted and added a mic to my AD700s, but I want to now do a removable TRRS cable with paracord sleeving. My issue is when I get to the Y-Split. Instead of using an adapter, I just wanted to split the cable naturally and terminate each end with a TRS and Mono jack. However, I need to figure out how to ground both plugs. Four wires, but the split requires a second ground. Is it possible to just solder the ground and copper jacket together at the headset and then use the jacket at the split as the second ground or do I need to cut at the split and solder a spare bit of wire to the ground to split off to the other jack? I'm sleeving in paracord, so the copper shield wouldn't be covered by anything and I'm not sure if that would cause interference.
 
I know that there are individual wires surrounded by a sheath that acts as a ground and an example can be found factory-stock inside my headset, but I can't find any Mogami cables or other brands that feature a wire like this. It would certainly solve my dilemma.
 
Apr 3, 2017 at 9:57 AM Post #6,689 of 10,535
  Hey everyone,
 
I've spent a good week doing research for my first recabling and I've run into a small snag. I've repainted and added a mic to my AD700s, but I want to now do a removable TRRS cable with paracord sleeving. My issue is when I get to the Y-Split. Instead of using an adapter, I just wanted to split the cable naturally and terminate each end with a TRS and Mono jack. However, I need to figure out how to ground both plugs. Four wires, but the split requires a second ground. Is it possible to just solder the ground and copper jacket together at the headset and then use the jacket at the split as the second ground or do I need to cut at the split and solder a spare bit of wire to the ground to split off to the other jack? I'm sleeving in paracord, so the copper shield wouldn't be covered by anything and I'm not sure if that would cause interference.
 
I know that there are individual wires surrounded by a sheath that acts as a ground and an example can be found factory-stock inside my headset, but I can't find any Mogami cables or other brands that feature a wire like this. It would certainly solve my dilemma.


I am not sure I can give you a complete answer but here goes. Copper shield with paracord over it should be fine, that should not hurt anything. Now comes the tricky part, if you have a ground with a shield not attached you can use shielding but there are some caveats. A shield will act as a shield when it covers wires, using it in addition to grounds may cause you to pick up 60 cycle hum on unbalanced equipment. If that happens you should try disconnecting it at different ground points till you eliminate it. See on a coaxial cable, just a center conductor and braided shield, the shield is ground. As long as you are just dealing with the ground and the shield, you can experiment without doing any damage in my opinion but I would feel a lot safer in trying this on my own cable than advising someone else to do it.
 
Apr 3, 2017 at 10:52 AM Post #6,690 of 10,535
Ok then I'll get them out tomorrow for you then. I'll pm any thing else.


I did throw together a few parts as a thank you, it is a Monday, I have not had much coffee and I did electronics three weekends in a row so I realized after the fact that I sent you one each of a red and a white RCA connector, unless you are building like a 3.5mm to RCA's one of each will not do you much good lol.  The grommets I am including come in real handy on headphone cables.
Tom

 

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