DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread
Nov 20, 2013 at 1:30 PM Post #856 of 10,535
Hi ,
I'm just wondering why IEM cabling is twisted like so :
:
 
 
I am just about to attempt my first custom wiring, and im just curious as i have seen cable braiding pop up, but haven't been able to find an answer as to why they are braided ? Specifically the two going to each individual ear ?
 
Thanks in advance,
Flowwwie

 
Nov 20, 2013 at 1:35 PM Post #857 of 10,535
To keep both wires attached together and also gives it a nice look, instead of having 2 loose wires 
biggrin.gif

 
Nov 20, 2013 at 2:11 PM Post #859 of 10,535
They will eventually come undone if you just twist. Best to hold both wires, then rotate each around the other, little hard to explain.  If done properly, there is no need to use heat, i never do.
 
Nov 20, 2013 at 2:24 PM Post #860 of 10,535
Ok , thankyou very much :)
Also another question : Im 99% sure the cable is defective on my in-ears, but it COULD be the driver, any way to tell which ?
Ive taken them apart and disconnected the cables in prep for a cable swap, and have accepted if its the drivers I will buy new in-ears, however im pretty sure it's the cable. But to know for sure would be great,
Thanks in advance
 
Nov 20, 2013 at 2:55 PM Post #861 of 10,535
  Ok , thankyou very much :)
Also another question : Im 99% sure the cable is defective on my in-ears, but it COULD be the driver, any way to tell which ?
Ive taken them apart and disconnected the cables in prep for a cable swap, and have accepted if its the drivers I will buy new in-ears, however im pretty sure it's the cable. But to know for sure would be great,
Thanks in advance

If you have a basic little voltmeter, you could do a continuity test on the cable.  If there's a break in the line, you'll be able to find it that way.
 
In order to test the drivers, I think you'd just have to re-cable them and see what happens.
 
Nov 20, 2013 at 3:02 PM Post #862 of 10,535
  If you have a basic little voltmeter, you could do a continuity test on the cable.  If there's a break in the line, you'll be able to find it that way.
 
In order to test the drivers, I think you'd just have to re-cable them and see what happens.

 
Well school have multi-meters.. ill take the cables in and see :p
The issue was one ear was drastically quieter and softer then the other ear (2x-3x)
I assume this was an issue with the cable as they are solid headphones, but get alot of throwing around in my pockets, and have have 2 different pairs previously fail at the connector joint before.
I think ill go ahead and recable with Mogami 2893 and see what the results are. Thanks !
 
Nov 20, 2013 at 9:41 PM Post #863 of 10,535
   
Well school have multi-meters.. ill take the cables in and see :p
The issue was one ear was drastically quieter and softer then the other ear (2x-3x)
I assume this was an issue with the cable as they are solid headphones, but get alot of throwing around in my pockets, and have have 2 different pairs previously fail at the connector joint before.
I think ill go ahead and recable with Mogami 2893 and see what the results are. Thanks !

That should definitely do the trick!  Good luck with the recable.  Have you built any cables before?
 
I haven't started building cables yet, but hope to very soon (getting some new equipment so I can return the borrowed supplies from my electrician friend.)  I started out fixing cables on IEMs where they've snapped - this sounds like what's happened to you...and...all I can say is...it's very fun...and addictive.
 
Thanks to all the contributors here!  You've encouraged me to take the next leap forward!
 
Nov 21, 2013 at 5:50 AM Post #864 of 10,535
  
Well school have multi-meters.. ill take the cables in and see :p
The issue was one ear was drastically quieter and softer then the other ear (2x-3x)
I assume this was an issue with the cable as they are solid headphones, but get alot of throwing around in my pockets, and have have 2 different pairs previously fail at the connector joint before.
I think ill go ahead and recable with Mogami 2893 and see what the results are. Thanks !

That should definitely do the trick!  Good luck with the recable.  Have you built any cables before?
 
I haven't started building cables yet, but hope to very soon (getting some new equipment so I can return the borrowed supplies from my electrician friend.)  I started out fixing cables on IEMs where they've snapped - this sounds like what's happened to you...and...all I can say is...it's very fun...and addictive.
 
Thanks to all the contributors here!  You've encouraged me to take the next leap forward!


Thanks! Nope its my first :D
And I'm sure, something about infinite possibilities and building something to your personal spec is very satisfying

Sent from my LG-P880 using Tapatalk 2
 
Nov 24, 2013 at 3:47 AM Post #867 of 10,535
What do you guys use to clean up the look of the y split? I am thinking of getting a Viablue y connector, but they're pretty expensive. Anyone have any other suggestions?

That or you can just use plain heat shrink.  That is what I do most of the time.  also Viablue y splitters are huge so you will need a fairly thick cable for it to be viable.  
 
Nov 24, 2013 at 3:13 PM Post #868 of 10,535
Ok, I have a question for anyone that can answer.
 
I'm trying to shorten an HD650 cable, And would really appreciate if someone could help me out with a few things. First, I am not sure how you tell the positive from ground wires once you cut the end off. The only idea i had for that was using a multimeter set to continuity. One of the previous post on this thread showed that the large pin is ground and the small pin is positive. The second thing is soldering the wires to the new plug. Where do the wires get soldered to in the new plug? If i am correct there should be 4 wires left/right channel positive and left/right ground. I have never done this before and would really like to learn how to accomplish this. 
 
Also what 1/4 plug brand is best to use.
 
I looked around, And i could not find other information on this. If there is other information, I am sorry to ask again.
 
Thanks
 
Nov 24, 2013 at 4:12 PM Post #869 of 10,535
There are 1 left wire, 1 left ground, 1 right wire, and 1 right ground. So, I shortened mine, and small pin is for the signal, and large one is for ground; use multimeter. Also, you most likely won't be able to solder it due to it being covered in enamel ****, so you will need to burn that off with a solder pot. I like 1/4 plugs from Ampenol.
 
Hope this helps :)
 
Nov 24, 2013 at 4:27 PM Post #870 of 10,535
  Ok, I have a question for anyone that can answer.
 
I'm trying to shorten an HD650 cable, And would really appreciate if someone could help me out with a few things. First, I am not sure how you tell the positive from ground wires once you cut the end off. The only idea i had for that was using a multimeter set to continuity. One of the previous post on this thread showed that the large pin is ground and the small pin is positive. The second thing is soldering the wires to the new plug. Where do the wires get soldered to in the new plug? If i am correct there should be 4 wires left/right channel positive and left/right ground. I have never done this before and would really like to learn how to accomplish this. 
 
Also what 1/4 plug brand is best to use.
 
I looked around, And i could not find other information on this. If there is other information, I am sorry to ask again.
 
Thanks

You are correct that small is signal and large is from ground and yes check continuity with your multimeter.   On the 1/4 connector tip is left, the center sleeve is right and the bottom sleeve is ground  you will have 1 wire for each signal and 2 wires going to ground.   I would use a neutrik plug.  Redco.com has a bunch of different options.  
 

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