DIY Cable Questions and Comments Thread

[Allanmarcus]

 

95 1-Strand Paracord Type 1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXEL43A

Mogami W2799 stripped and inch-wormed into the paracord. I used plumbers tape (PTFE tape) around the end of the wire to feed it in. Make sure to cover about two to three inches of the wires with the tape before feeding it in.

All good advice, thanks. Plumbers tape is probably Teflon tape I would think, I just bought some for a bathroom remodel in my home. I have several sizes of paracord on the way including micro, 275, and number 1. I would think braiding helps with microphonics, the cable I got with some MrSpeakers exhibits none. A straight run probably allows vibrations to travel consistently right down the jacket. That and jacket tautness is more likely to occur and transfer sound just like a string between tin cans. The cable I got with the aforementioned cans had the same color code as the 2799 so there are quite a few people using it I would think. MrSpeakers advertises Canare in their standard cables and that is another good brand I am sure. Belden has it as well but if a person could buy good quality 24 or 26 awg. ofc or HP ofc I am more apt to go that route. I will find something yet.

 
 
heh heh, I used to call it that too. From Wikipedia:
 
It is also known by the genericised trade-name Teflon tape; while Teflon is in fact identical to PTFE, Chemours (the trade-mark holders) consider this usage incorrect, especially as they no longer manufacture Teflon in tape form.

 

[Paladin79]

   
 
heh heh, I used to call it that too. From Wikipedia:
 
It is also known by the genericised trade-name Teflon tape; while Teflon is in fact identical to PTFE, Chemours (the trade-mark holders) consider this usage incorrect, especially as they no longer manufacture Teflon in tape form.

I stand corrected. That is how bandaid got to be the word for a certain small bandage.
 
So you know, I have a hard time wrapping my mind around the idea that it can be cheaper to buy star quad than single strand wire of the same type but if the majority of the wire is used to make star quad and it is mass produced for that purpose that would certainly keep the price down. It is starting to be more logical. If it is used for audio it is generally at least twisted pair so why bother to sell it as single wire? I doubt a large company gears things toward DIY folks. OCC is so pricey that they can market it most any way they like.
 
Unless my sources just failed to list it, I do not see where the Mogami 2799 is OFC. The 24 awg Mogami 2534 is OFC. That may just be the people selling the stuff and all Neglex is OFC but I have yet to find it mentioned that way. I am just trying to be sure I am comparing apples to apples in my search for single conductor high quality wire to use for braiding. There is a thread on here about the Canare and Mogami but some of the info was convoluted like Neglex is always blue etc. lol I need to track down Mogami spec sheets.

 

[SVTong]

If you ever do find a good source for a high strand count single wire, please post it up - I've been hunting around for it for a few days now with no luck.

 

[Paladin79]

  If you ever do find a good source for a high strand count single wire, please post it up - I've been hunting around for it for a few days now with no luck.

I will be glad to but then you are in Canada and then it will be a matter of customs and taxes or driving over the border if you live close enough to the states. In some of my searches I found some silver plated single conductor copper but it was solid, not stranded. If I can get 24 awg made for under 20 cents a foot I will do it but knowing it would be a special run of wire, I doubt I can get it for that price but I hope to get an answer soon.

 

[SVTong]

  I will be glad to but then you are in Canada and then it will be a matter of customs and taxes or driving over the border if you live close enough to the states. In some of my searches I found some silver plated single conductor copper but it was solid, not stranded. If I can get 24 awg made for under 20 cents a foot I will do it but knowing it would be a special run of wire, I doubt I can get it for that price but I hope to get an answer soon.

Yeah, avoiding customs and duties is definitely a big challenge.

 

[Paladin79]

  Yeah, avoiding customs and duties is definitely a big challenge.

Yeah if you were in Windsor it would be easier. I have been there to play in tournaments and it is an easy trip to get back into the states. I found some wire I like, 105 strand, High Conductivity copper but even my cost is up there because it has already been made into double shielded cable. Belden 9397. I have not given up yet and I have not exhausted all my sources.
 
I will have a price relatively soon, I am getting a quote for ofhc that will be built to my specs in either 24 or 26 awg.

 

[jlily82]

 
Here is a good quality Neutrik connector on some MrSpeaker headphones I acquired. It does not appear to be a stock cable but it is well made and I will only need to modify a couple things to get it to fit my needs. The headphones go back to MrSpeakers tomorrow for modifications so I will have plenty of time to build new cables. Do not be alarmed if you see the name Rean on Neutrik connectors, it is part of their branding. The Neutrik's are nice and large and easy to solder to and have proper solder lugs.

 

Those look like the ones I ordered. Should be in my mailbox along with a helping hand and a soldering staion. I'm guessing anything is easier than trying to solder to those other plugs.

 

[Paladin79]

  Those look like the ones I ordered. Should be in my mailbox along with a helping hand and a soldering staion. I'm guessing anything is easier than trying to solder to those other plugs.

Yeah I knew those were what you ordered. I am not sure who built the cable I got with the headphones (not original to the MrSpeakers.) but tomorrow I will try to take a picture of how not to solder to those connectors you received. I am fortunate the cable I got was still working. 
 
I also checked with my people who work with the type connector you had trouble with, they have no issue soldering to it with Weller irons and rosin core solder, it may be the fact we use hotter tips and they solder several hours a day but equipment can be a factor. None of them use anything but a wet sponge that came with the irons, same with me, so how the tips are manufactured makes a difference I am sure. I am not suggesting anyone pay $150-$175 per iron, I was just saying you get different results with different equipment.
We have a couple of gallons of liquid flux but only use it when we are using solder pots, there is no rosin in the solder in solder pots or it would just burn off, you always have to clean the wires with it before dipping the wires in. It is especially important with Litz wires, there is enamel that has to burn off to reach the wire.

 

[Allanmarcus]

  I'm trying to switch some cables from angled connections to straight ones. Ive got everything ready to solder but i cant seem to get the wires soldered in the right spots. I have my green, red and my ground, which wires get soldered where? heres what the plug looks like
 
http://s200.photobucket.com/user/lilyquist82/media/4A7BBC97-50EF-4D29-A4FA-AAA394BFB5D5.jpg.html?sort=2&o=54
 
http://s200.photobucket.com/user/lilyquist82/media/8936F4B0-E7C2-4DAD-9A50-C3C5AE764510.jpg.html?sort=2&o=55
 
any help is appreciated, Im a total newb at this, Thanks

Here's how I solder on connectors like that. First I measure the wire and cut the wire very carefully. The ring wire will be a tad longer than the tip. I then tin the wires with s little more solder than usual. I then put a small amount of solder directly on the metal parts on the connector. For this part helping hands are generally too wobbly for me, and I use a vise (panavise). I put the connector in the vise, I place the tinned part of the wire over the place to solder, then I apply the tip to the wire, just enough to melt the solder, then remove the tip. Basically I smosh the wire into the connector with the solder tip. The tinned wire and the solder on the connector should heat up. Hold the wire for a few second until the joint cools, then let go. I hold the wire with needle nose pliers. The iron needs to be pretty hot so it will melt the tinned wire and other solder quickly.
 
The tricks:
tin and pre solder.
Use a vise to hold the connecter so you can put some pressure on their with the iron tip. 
hot tip

 

[Paladin79]

 
Here's how I solder on connectors like that. First I measure the wire and cut the wire very carefully. The ring wire will be a tad longer than the tip. I then tin the wires with s little more solder than usual. I then put a small amount of solder directly on the metal parts on the connector. For this part helping hands are generally too wobbly for me, and I use a vise (panavise). I put the connector in the vise, I place the tinned part of the wire over the place to solder, then I apply the tip to the wire, just enough to melt the solder, then remove the tip. Basically I smosh the wire into the connector with the solder tip. The tinned wire and the solder on the connector should heat up. Hold the wire for a few second until the joint cools, then let go. I hold the wire with needle nose pliers. The iron needs to be pretty hot so it will melt the tinned wire and other solder quickly.
 
The tricks:
tin and pre solder.
Use a vise to hold the connecter so you can put some pressure on their with the iron tip. 
hot tip

Yeah he got new connectors since that post (Neutrik) and a new iron. I avoid that style of connector whenever possible but we did get some special 2.5 mm for Sennheiser that had that cylindrical set up. No matter what you do you are tacking a wire onto the side of a round piece of metal separated by plastic, without enough heat and proper technique the wire comes off. I was taught in college to never depend on the solder doing all the work and with that style you have little choice.

 

[Allanmarcus]

Solder buddy. Interesting

http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/solderbuddy-diyers-delight

 

[Paladin79]

Solder buddy. Interesting

http://www.innerfidelity.com/content/solderbuddy-diyers-delight

Not a bad idea, I may grab a couple and check them out. The Panavise has a spring shaped device you can add on for holding wires but I mainly use it when I am tinning several wires at once or waiting for hot glue to set. I will get a photo once I get to work. I have built some of my own devices to help people. The largest was a tester for any style 50 pin connector with LED's for all channels to show continuity, opens, and short circuits. I designed and built it in one weekend for one large government project.

Something I will build soon that pertains to headphones will be adapting a pair of circum aural headphones to accept any major type of headphone cable made. Balanced, unbalanced with adapters for all connector types. It will accept Sennheiser, Audese, MrSpeakers etc.



Above is an image of some additions to a panavise, spring like wire holder, solder caddy, and iron holder for Weller irons. They are not super expensive and are available from Panavise.

 

[Allanmarcus]

W2799 is 30/0.08 OFC 
26 AWG
 
http://www.mogamicable.com/category/bulk/console/

 

[Paladin79]

  Those look like the ones I ordered. Should be in my mailbox along with a helping hand and a soldering staion. I'm guessing anything is easier than trying to solder to those other plugs.

Above are two examples of proper and improper soldering technique, the first photo shows wires laid flat against a solder lug and soldered in place, they attached the ground wire the same way. I was taught never to do this, it is not a strong junction.
 
The second photo shows looping the wire through the solder lug hole before it is soldered. Those holes are there for a reason lol. If the stranded wire does not fit, I use a very sharp pick to enlarge the hole just a bit. The wire should be passed through the hole and then bent over slightly, you can cut off the excess before or after soldering. The hole in the lug should be entirely filled with solder as well as covering the wire. The second  photo is pre-solder.

 

[Paladin79]

  W2799 is 30/0.08 OFC 
26 AWG
 
http://www.mogamicable.com/category/bulk/console/

Thanks Allan,  I did not happen to see that in two descriptions put out by the same distributor so it made me wonder. I got sidetracked and did not go to Mogami. I have seen distributors say that the wire in Canare star quad is OFC but I have not had much time to check into that as well. Hopefully today I will get a decent quote for some of that type of wire as a single conductor. Manufacturers build multi conductor cables with it and I hope it is reasonable in price if you can catch it before they combine it with other wires, a braided shield, reinforcing material, and a jacket. If I can get it made I will try for a very flexible jacket as well and 105 strand. I have a couple projects in mind where I could use it and I should end up with thousands of feet of it that might help folks who are searching for such wire.