[dougms3]

I'm trying to understand this. It doesn't make any sense. If noise is mixed in with the music, you can and will hear it the more revealing your system is. If can't get rid of it without penalties. It won't be the only thing you lose.

What i also don't understand is why you bring up the ifi devices for computer when he just said he uses an android phone that sounds clear as a bell. With the right app (that produces USB direct output) it's a really, really, really good source. It works off a DC battery. Any pc is to producing EMI noise to a datastream of music as a tiled swimmingpool is to echoing noise for a dolphinarium. Thanks to the AC pollution radiating unshielded power supply and cables.

I get it, you can try it out for free etc. But it's very unlikely to better android on DC. And believe; me nothing is free. Either Ben or ifi will be paying in time and money, no guarantee to the result.

If jitter is your concern, I doubt the ifi +PC will improve anything.

If you just mean noise in general, it might not be the source. Many amps are not dead silent, changing the source won't help one bit. Many speakers have convoluted filters with cheap parts. Changing the source won't help one iota. Micro details can get stuck anywhere. I use android as source and I have amazing silence and micro detail and space.

If theres white noise mixed in with music you will not be able to isolate it by ear.

Some of the ifi devices have a usb c connector or with something like ipurifier that goes on the dac end. Any electronic device is going to produce EMI not only a PC or AC powered device. Dacs and amps also produce EMI and inject noise into the audio system as well.

I didn't say it was free, somebody is paying and in this case if you return it, it will be ifi. But I think they know what they're doing since their products work well and they're willing to take that risk which is why they sell on Amazon directly.

Depending on which device you get, yes you can reduce jitter and yes it will improve anything.

No matter what you do, there will be noise in the system. The point is to reduce it. There is no such thing as absolute silence in an audio system, thats called an oxymoron. I have found that reducing too much noise sometimes affects the dynamics, transients, liveliness, musicality, bass in the music. I dont know what the explanation is for this.

If you're feeling confident that your system is "silent", test it out for yourself. Again, no risk.

 

[sajunky]

I am trying out my new Denefrips Ares 2. Asgaard3 amp. I have my music (mostly classical, almost all of it CD quality flags ie 44.1k) on a microsd in an android tablet (fire HD +). I have a few questions:
(1) what software and settings are the best to get bit perfect quality, no different than if I was connecting my CD player with optical cable? (I have power amp and foobar2000, but an having trouble figuring out which audio output to use, what volume settings, etc)
(2) I can't figure out why no matter what I do the dac lights say 48k and 2x, even though the files are 44.1k.

I should add I'm a relative newbie at this.

Follow Foobar for newbies guide. Problem #2 shows a sound is going through Windows system mixer that do resampling to 48kHz (according to the setting in Windows). For bit-perfect playback use WASAPI exclusive mode output in Foobar, or ASIO, a guide covers this basic setup in part1.

 

[iFi audio]

It can be a different opinion on that, but I would just use iDefender instead.

That's affirmative. iDefender+ was designed to break ground loops, but its optional feature that allows to use a clean external 5V line is helpful in reducing noise incoming via USB.

 

[Hoshi]

I'm a current Ares II owner. I've enjoyed this DAC for better than a year. While thinking about upgrading to a DAC with I2S, I discover while reading the Pontus thread, that there is a firmware update from Denafrips for all models. This upgrade supposedly enhances overall sound quality if using the USB input. Here is the link to the update. usb-mcu-firmware-update-mac

There is a windows PC update as well on the update page. I'm posting here to see if any Ares II owners using a MAC have preformed this upgrade successfully. I've followed the step by step instructions but cannot get the Ares II to engage to "F-20 Configuration Mode". The instruction states to put the Ares II in confirmation mode, put the DAC in standby mode and to push the "phase" button once. I've tried this numerous times as well as trying different buttons, rebooting the DAC by completely shutting it down, etc. but cannot get the DAC in engage in the F-20 Configuration Mode.

I have reached out Alvin and I believe he is looking into my issue.

If you've been successful, please let me know.

 

[JaquesGelee]

I'm a current Ares II owner. I've enjoyed this DAC for better than a year. While thinking about upgrading to a DAC with I2S, I discover while reading the Pontus thread, that there is a firmware update from Denafrips for all models. This upgrade supposedly enhances overall sound quality if using the USB input. Here is the link to the update. usb-mcu-firmware-update-mac

There is a windows PC update as well on the update page. I'm posting here to see if any Ares II owners using a MAC have preformed this upgrade successfully. I've followed the step by step instructions but cannot get the Ares II to engage to "F-20 Configuration Mode". The instruction states to put the Ares II in confirmation mode, put the DAC in standby mode and to push the "phase" button once. I've tried this numerous times as well as trying different buttons, rebooting the DAC by completely shutting it down, etc. but cannot get the DAC in engage in the F-20 Configuration Mode.

I have reached out Alvin and I believe he is looking into my issue.

If you've been successful, please let me know.

I have done it with Mac by following the instructions.

 

[halo26]

Follow Foobar for newbies guide. Problem #2 shows a sound is going through Windows system mixer that do resampling to 48kHz (according to the setting in Windows). For bit-perfect playback use WASAPI exclusive mode output in Foobar, or ASIO, a guide covers this basic setup in part1.

Thank you. I will check out that guide, and appreciate the advice. However, I should clarify that I am using an ANDROID tablet (kindle fire HD plus), not windows. [This seemed like a good idea, because the tablet has USB digital output, and can still be kept charged because it can charge while on a charging pad.] It seems that the ANDROID device is automatically resampling it to 48K even though I have set foobar to NOT resample. I can choose the audio output among several formats (which, BTW, I would like to know which I should favor), but it will only output as a multiple of 48K. So there is a setting to allow me to output 192K (48KX4), another one at 96K, and it will sometimes allow me to do 48K. (Whereas poweramp seems to ONLY output at 48K no matter whatoutput method I choose). But either way, foobar does not seem able to override the android 48K setting.... unless I'm missing something

 

[]eep]

Power amp is ok. Foobar is not the same as on PC where I loved it so much. On Android it's nothing like the original.

A free player that gives you bit perfect out is hiby player. You could also get the cheap dedicated player Tempotec V1 that uses Hiby-OS you can insert 2 sd-cards and use usb-c to the Ares. You can then use your phone from your couch to control via Hiby-link. Very easy and convenient, bit perfect with very clean data. If you tag the covers inside your flacs you can also see the covers on your phone.

There are also other super music players for a small fee like neutron and usb audio player pro. They have lots of fans, very versatile, very good quality. But if you don't want to plug your phone to your stereo like me (ie no headfi) imo Hiby is the go to app.

Edit: I reinstalled foobar to check the settings but I couldn't get it to output other than 48kHz either no matter HD PCM or DSD. What's worse, it effected Hiby too for some reason. To be fair; I didn't plug it into the Ares usb but to the smsl dp5 usb input where the screen said 48kHz. So I did some warm reboots took the Tempotec and it was playing dsd native on 2.235 MHz again.

With Hiby you just switch on 'exclusive hq usb audio access ' and your usb will have exclusive output access for the music, bypassing the Android mixer. No system messages etc.

 

[dougms3]

Thank you. I will check out that guide, and appreciate the advice. However, I should clarify that I am using an ANDROID tablet (kindle fire HD plus), not windows. [This seemed like a good idea, because the tablet has USB digital output, and can still be kept charged because it can charge while on a charging pad.] It seems that the ANDROID device is automatically resampling it to 48K even though I have set foobar to NOT resample. I can choose the audio output among several formats (which, BTW, I would like to know which I should favor), but it will only output as a multiple of 48K. So there is a setting to allow me to output 192K (48KX4), another one at 96K, and it will sometimes allow me to do 48K. (Whereas poweramp seems to ONLY output at 48K no matter whatoutput method I choose). But either way, foobar does not seem able to override the android 48K setting.... unless I'm missing something

I have tested USBAP, Foobar, Neutron, PowerAMP, Fiio, SHanling, Hiby Music Players, and Onkyo HF player.

Without a doubt the paid version of the Onkyo HF player which unlocks the usb features offers the best sound quality with DSD upsampling capabilities. The negative is that its not very intuitive and design is very basic.

For ease of use I'd say PowerAmp wins easily, GUI is smooth and easy to navigate, also easy to put together playlists. But sound quality is not on par with the Onkyo player.

I dont use android for my home system but I use it for my car audio system. Phone > Fiio BTR5 > car audio system pushing about 1000w rms.

 

[halo26]

I have tested USBAP, Foobar, Neutron, PowerAMP, Fiio, SHanling, Hiby Music Players, and Onkyo HF player.

Without a doubt the paid version of the Onkyo HF player which unlocks the usb features offers the best sound quality with DSD upsampling capabilities. The negative is that its not very intuitive and design is very basic.

For ease of use I'd say PowerAmp wins easily, GUI is smooth and easy to navigate, also easy to put together playlists. But sound quality is not on par with the Onkyo player.

I dont use android for my home system but I use it for my car audio system. Phone > Fiio BTR5 > car audio system pushing about 1000w rms.

Thanks for the response. One thing that I am unclear about: If I have no plans to play anything other than (99%) Cd quality flac and perhaps a few 96k tracks, Is there any substantial difference between hibby and onkyo? Isn't bit perfect by definition the same?

 

[halo26]

Power amp is ok. Foobar is not the same as on PC where I loved it so much. On Android it's nothing like the original.

A free player that gives you bit perfect out is hiby player. You could also get the cheap dedicated player Tempotec V1 that uses Hiby-OS you can insert 2 sd-cards and use usb-c to the Ares. You can then use your phone from your couch to control via Hiby-link. Very easy and convenient, bit perfect with very clean data. If you tag the covers inside your flacs you can also see the covers on your phone.

There are also other super music players for a small fee like neutron and usb audio player pro. They have lots of fans, very versatile, very good quality. But if you don't want to plug your phone to your stereo like me (ie no headfi) imo Hiby is the go to app.

Edit: I reinstalled foobar to check the settings but I couldn't get it to output other than 48kHz either no matter HD PCM or DSD. What's worse, it effected Hiby too for some reason. To be fair; I didn't plug it into the Ares usb but to the smsl dp5 usb input where the screen said 48kHz. So I did some warm reboots took the Tempotec and it was playing dsd native on 2.235 MHz again.

With Hiby you just switch on 'exclusive hq usb audio access ' and your usb will have exclusive output access for the music, bypassing the Android mixer. No system messages etc.

I tried it (hiby, exclusive hq USB mode) using the Kindle fire. It stuttered, played tracks at double speed, refused to play, etc. The only way I was able to stop the stuttering was to enable FIXED output sampling rate. Even then, 44.1 sampling just stuttered. Anything else (eg 48k, 88.2k, 96k, 176.4, 192k) plays just fine. So it seems that bit perfect just won't work..... the denefrips dac shows the selected sampling rate correctly, it just Messes up the sound. So my question with hiby is: does sampling at a multiple of 44.1 (eg 88.2) give me better quality with less artifact compared to upsampling flacs to 48k?

 

[sajunky]

Resampling should be avoided at all cost. I think the cheapest way to play bit-perfect on Android is USBAPP, but it is a paid app.

Tidal users can be happy with a help of MQA requirements for bit-perfect transfers.

 

[dougms3]

Thanks for the response. One thing that I am unclear about: If I have no plans to play anything other than (99%) Cd quality flac and perhaps a few 96k tracks, Is there any substantial difference between hibby and onkyo? Isn't bit perfect by definition the same?

I think the execution makes them different. Not sure really why one would sound better than another, probably has to do with how the software is programmed, that is over my head.

I would assume its kind of like if you ask 5 different companies to make a red coupe v8 sports car with 19" wheels x height x width x wheelbase, you will get different end results even if they all meet that criteria.

 

[Terozzzz]

USB will be noisy regardless if its A, B, or C. It carries data as well as power in the same cable, its inevitable that there will be interference.

That is not true. At all. The data wont be altered, at all. Even if there is noise and IF you got noise from USB your computer or home electric system is faulty. I have never even heard a any noise to be carried to DAC, not a once in my 35 years of building computers professionally.

 

[BenSherman]

I've just been told on another forum that I shouldn't use both the RCA and XLA outputs at the same time, as it will split the power and degrade the signal. Is this true? I've always had an amp plugged into each output simultaneously (tube amp into RCA and SS amp into XLR). As a test, I just tried unplugging the unused amp while listening to music - and I didn't notice any change to the sound.

 

[dougms3]

I've just been told on another forum that I shouldn't use both the RCA and XLA outputs at the same time, as it will split the power and degrade the signal. Is this true? I've always had an amp plugged into each output simultaneously (tube amp into RCA and SS amp into XLR). As a test, I just tried unplugging the unused amp while listening to music - and I didn't notice any change to the sound.

I found this out the hard way, its been brought up several times in this thread.

Its stated in the manual that "It is not recommended to connect both outputs simultaneously."

When I had both connected simultaneously, I got some erractic distortion in the sound. Not a big deal for me to only use one but it would be nice if they were more transparent about it so I didn't go through my whole audio chain, trying to figure out if something is wrong with my amp or cables.