DENAFRIPS 'ARES' R2R discrete ladder DAC - close up view
Jun 27, 2022 at 1:03 PM Post #3,271 of 3,907
The TOPPING is a must for the Ares or is it required only when there's actually an audible distortion/noise problem?
No, it is not a must. I understand it might have come across when I said “problem solved” but it is necessary only when you have a ground loop.

I had no ground loop, but bought one to satisfy my audiophile curiosity. Measurements show that there is a good 20 dB of noise attenuation and harmonics even in the absence of a ground loop. Though measurable, I admit that I cannot hear it — only logical since the Ares’ own noise has been measured well below the threshold of human hearing.
Anyone insisting that USB is ‘the way’ based on science/logical thinking (I understand about USB Async, is in part why I have a Grace m903), and then goes to a lot of effort/spending to improve it… ‘sound logic’.
Expectation bias is with everyone.
The semantics are that most digital transmission methods have issues,..
I would say the semantics are that all transmission methods have issues. Which is where I find the beauty in the audio hobby: it’s all about compromises.
Depending on any given piece of hardwares’ design, any given input method may sound better (test your own setup, PLEASE!)
This is sound advice (no pun intended). Implementations differ and so do personal preferences. As always, I just try to contribute by sharing engineering knowledge, then to each to pass his or her own judgement.
but given most work on some silly fallacy that digital is transmitted digitally (over USB it is a wavelength, with peaks and trowels that have to align accurately in order to be interpreted as digital ‘on/off’ (one/zero), and is why USB cable quality VERY MUCH MATTERS (qualifier being: into setups with enough capability to resolve the differences).. those high/low points, “eyelets” of info can easily get ‘out of sync’ becoming misread, where zero becomes a one or vice versa… sure error correction can make up some of it, but absolute audio information is easily lost (bass note definition, transient timings, the microdetails that give a stage its depth etc)
You are right on the voltage levels to make it ones or zeros, but otherwise USB works differently from what you describe. There is no sort of lossy error correction. USB packets contain a CRC (a “check” value calculated from the actual payload, to see if the packet was received correctly). The USB client sends the host a confirmation when a packet was received successfully with a matching CRC. In the absence of such an acknowledgement, the host retransmits the package. If the cable or connection is poor, and too many packets are dropped, you will hear skipping. Packets are either received with full integrity, or they are not, they are not mutated.
I have ‘nice‘ USB cables, and regen units and am happy ‘doing the dance‘ of bouncing USB through multiple links (if need be), but I also run USB direct from battery isolated DAPs that internally have much consideration and design given to power isolation into particular circuits
Indeed battery powered devices are by nature free from ground and mains noise so they are perfect in that regard. Of course like you say always test your system, because switching circuitry in them can and will still inject noise on connections (particularly ICs). But less so than noisy PCs and such, that’s for sure!
It will never be I2S over a dedicated cable method designed for digital audio etc..
Although I don’t find much in the argument that USB audio cannot or will never be good because USB was not invented for it — we could make a list of the greatest inventions that were intended for a different purpose — I am totally with you that I2S with a great master clock really is the best you can get. Unfortunately all Denafrips DACs reclock I2S signals too and so are limited by the quality of their own clock.
Figure I’ll post them here for all to enjoy, I’m only the messenger and just kinda curious to hear your thoughts on them. Some of the comments felt it helped but mighta just been the placebo affect.





I’m usually more diplomatic but let me say that this is nonsense. I will go out on a limb and say that electronics can be microphonic in the presence of loudspeakers, which is the basis for all matters anti-vibration, but tuning a chassis is just nonsense.
@sajunky ‘yes’ (glad you are raising awareness of what is involved with USB, and I would say you speak with rosey coloured glasses, and WANT USB to be ‘all that’..)
I think that @sajunky provided a good factual description of how things work. And again everyone looks through the glasses of their own choosing.
from a cheaper chain (don’t need to use super nice USB cables to get ‘close to equal’ digital tranmission quality) (but that is leaving the elephant in the room out of the discussion- clearly you believe that ANY USB cable is ‘good enough’?!)
Almost any: at least those with good shielding, preferably with ferrite beads, and good fitting of connectors. This guarantees high noise rejection.
For a budget DAC, I am ‘all for USB’ (if it sounds better).. but for a nice DAC, I’d certainly encourage testing.. (the feedback I get via PM is ’thankyou’ (COAX was a massive upgrade))
I have no horse in this race.. I can do both and happily do the one that works best (for me)
As do I. I hold no grudges against coax or Toslink, and encourage anyone to choose what they love the music with most. Just want to be transparent on what’s the deal with USB.
 
Jun 27, 2022 at 3:30 PM Post #3,272 of 3,907
Yep;; but that second video is an huge cost in time and money… (!) (vs the first video)

just do it…

certainly good tricks to employ..
Nice when people share knowledge..

A lot of the ‘more premium’ hifi parts I have come to love have sub chassis and ‘exotic materials’ (sub chassis).. and copper screws etc.
I think if you want to tunethe sound more towards the high end and remove some sibilance, you need use a silver washer..
jokes aside; good tips.
The feed back given in the first video could be, and most likely is, from break in (warm up) of the parts involved.. But it is true that these sorts of tricks make a difference.
IS why centrally mounted drive units in disc spinners (like the oppo behind Mike in the first video)..
Also why quite a few threads on head-fi talk about dampening tapes to put on top of caps inside their gear…

Good finds.. cheers. and kudos for sharing.. good people (the both of you!)
The tweak videos kinda made sense in that sometimes things can be over tighten and could put stress on the board. The whole tapping lid was a bit over the top. Figure it would fun to share. I liked your comment on using a silver washer it’s been a rough day and I got a good laugh outa that.
Have 2 other options that I been considering, one is a DVD player that has coax output it also is wi fi and can install Tidal and other apps I think I can do screen mirror with the iPad.
The other is a Xbox think between these I can figure out something temporary well I research a better streamer option.
 
Jun 27, 2022 at 4:40 PM Post #3,273 of 3,907
I feed my Ares II from an iPhone through a Camera Connection Kit. I like to use a USB cable with good screening and ferrite beads for noise rejection, preferably on both sides.

Not to start a cable discussion but just to present a different view, this is the USB cable that I'm using. Only downside I find is that it isn't gold plated: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32295185591.html

The Ares II has one of the best USB implementations on the market, which it shares with its bigger brothers, with the one nit that it isn't isolated (more on that later). The interface is asynchronous which means that the DAC processes the audio words in an ideal fashion based off its own clock, regardless of the quality of the input clock. On the other hand, S/PDIF requires the DAC to recover timing from the input signal. As good as that recovery can get, by definition it cannot be as good as asynchronous operation and will have elevated jitter, if only by a small amount on a good implementation. Subjectively one may prefer one or the other of course.

Now the one nit on the Ares II is that the USB interface isn't properly isolated, and source noise could find its way into the DAC. In this regard optical link would be superior even over coax, but again may cause higher jitter caused by optical conversion back and forth on top of the S/PDIF clock recovery. That's why I did my absolute best to use asynchronous USB as a digital transport, and stuck a TOPPING HS01 between the CCK and Ares II for isolation. Problem solved!
Just plugged my Ares into a Matrix Element H usb...I'm not a tech guy, but it sounds much better... I also have the external ipowerX for the Element. The overall sound is richer and the cymbals against the blacker background is really transformed....the soundstage is more spacious as well...bass is richer as well...deeper...more robust
 
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Jun 29, 2022 at 2:35 PM Post #3,274 of 3,907
The Ares ii is in the house. Have it hooked up to the iPad Air 4, and started the break in period.I’m listening to Tidal and it’s sounding much better than the Shanling M6 pro 21. Looking forward to hearing it once it has more hours on it.

Using the ares ii with the Mest mk ii is amazing. The mest really scales well to this upgrade. The usb cable I have might not be the best choice in this setup. I bought it as a match to a iem cable. It‘s a 8 strand mix of 4 pure silver strands and 4 gold plated copper strands.

Was planning on using a dvd with coax out. Just realized I need a hdmi cable to set it up since need to see a tv screen for setting up screen mirror. It be a project for later I might just use it to play cd till then.

I also want to thank Vinshine Audio they where excellent to deal with. Took less than a week from time I order to receiving item.
 
Jun 29, 2022 at 3:12 PM Post #3,275 of 3,907
The Ares ii is in the house. Have it hooked up to the iPad Air 4, and started the break in period.I’m listening to Tidal and it’s sounding much better than the Shanling M6 pro 21. Looking forward to hearing it once it has more hours on it.

Using the ares ii with the Mest mk ii is amazing. The mest really scales well to this upgrade. The usb cable I have might not be the best choice in this setup. I bought it as a match to a iem cable. It‘s a 8 strand mix of 4 pure silver strands and 4 gold plated copper strands.

Was planning on using a dvd with coax out. Just realized I need a hdmi cable to set it up since need to see a tv screen for setting up screen mirror. It be a project for later I might just use it to play cd till then.

I also want to thank Vinshine Audio they where excellent to deal with. Took less than a week from time I order to receiving item.
Welcome to the club!
 
Jun 30, 2022 at 11:50 AM Post #3,276 of 3,907
Does the Ares II have jumpers or another method that allow you to change the output impedance? I'm considering this DAC to replacement Benchmark DAC-3.
 
Jul 5, 2022 at 8:12 PM Post #3,278 of 3,907
Going on a week with power on and noticing small details Improving in sound quililty Really liking the improvements. Realized I need to pick up a surge protector so been shoping around. Debating something like the trip brand. Like everything else hi fi there’s a ton of pros and con.
I wonder what you guys use for your system and hoping to get some suggestion. Here is a inexpensive one, that would work from amazon but welcome recommendations or thoughts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/cart/view.html?ref_=nav_cart
 
Jul 7, 2022 at 9:05 AM Post #3,280 of 3,907
Anyone using the Ares II with the following mentioned below, if yes please give your views it will be very helpful.

1.Uptone Audio USB ISOregen+Lps 1.2.
2.Rpi with Picore Player

Tia
Don't use USB regenerators. It can only break asynchronous data delivery, Ares like many modern DACs denefit from. The ordinary USB 2.0 hub also regenerate USB signal and it is only needed when cable lenght exceed few meters.

You only need a ground loop redirector. Once again an ordinary self-powered USB 2.0 hub do it when combined with a quality power supply. Ifi Defender can be used as well, much cheaper than regenerators and do nor interfere with USB protocol. Just don't forget to order with power supply and lay down cables properly to limit ground loops surface area.

RPi produce less noise than PC, but you need RPi4 to get USB host with better UAC 2.0 support. An alternative approach to get rid of ground loops is to use sort of "poorman DDC" with low jitter clocks and external power supply like Douk Audio U2Pro. Use S/PDIF output to feed Ares. If you have Pontus, you can use I2S output of U2Pro, but then you can afford a real DDC. :)
 
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Jul 8, 2022 at 1:15 PM Post #3,282 of 3,907
I feed my Ares II from an iPhone through a Camera Connection Kit. I like to use a USB cable with good screening and ferrite beads for noise rejection, preferably on both sides.

Not to start a cable discussion but just to present a different view, this is the USB cable that I'm using. Only downside I find is that it isn't gold plated: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32295185591.html

The Ares II has one of the best USB implementations on the market, which it shares with its bigger brothers, with the one nit that it isn't isolated (more on that later). The interface is asynchronous which means that the DAC processes the audio words in an ideal fashion based off its own clock, regardless of the quality of the input clock. On the other hand, S/PDIF requires the DAC to recover timing from the input signal. As good as that recovery can get, by definition it cannot be as good as asynchronous operation and will have elevated jitter, if only by a small amount on a good implementation. Subjectively one may prefer one or the other of course.

Now the one nit on the Ares II is that the USB interface isn't properly isolated, and source noise could find its way into the DAC. In this regard optical link would be superior even over coax, but again may cause higher jitter caused by optical conversion back and forth on top of the S/PDIF clock recovery. That's why I did my absolute best to use asynchronous USB as a digital transport, and stuck a TOPPING HS01 between the CCK and Ares II for isolation. Problem solved!
Hi just wondering what the benefits are by using the camera adapter, I tried the my iPhone 12 mini and worked fine without the camera connection kit. Is it just to be able to power the phone while listening to music?
I decide to go with the usb chroma cables. They aren’t to expensive and have the ferrite beads on both end. The reviews seem good and seems to sounds a tad better than previous cable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083QMZ9L3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
 
Jul 8, 2022 at 5:05 PM Post #3,284 of 3,907
Ifi Defender can be used as well, much cheaper than regenerators and do nor interfere with USB protocol.

Although iDefender with an eternal PSU is a nice starting point, something like nano iUSB3.0 would still make a more noticeable difference :wink:
 
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Jul 11, 2022 at 2:02 AM Post #3,285 of 3,907
I currently have a Bifrost 2, and I love the soundstage depth and weight/thickness to the sound compared to my Modius, but I feel like its a bit too forward and dynamic for my tastes. I came from the Modius, where I like the more laid back, less forward, wider presentation with a clearer background but after hearing the Bifrost 2 I really do appreciate what it brings. I found the Bifrost 2 has a very similar tonality to the Schiit amplifiers, but in my case I found it a bit too much of a good thing for the synergy I was hoping at getting.

I'm thinking of getting the Ares II, what I'm hoping for is that its not quite as forward and dynamic as the Bifrost 2 (softer and more laid back sounding), but still maintains that depth and weight to the sound - while having a more accentuated and wider soundstage. A bonus of course if it can maintain some treble air and background clarity. Would I be looking in the right direction with this DAC?
 

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