ScottFW
100+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Mar 11, 2012
- Posts
- 104
- Likes
- 48
@ScottFW - did you use Canare L-4E6S or L-4E5C for the cable? If so, did you leave the shield unconnected? Also - how easy was it to solder the wire into the HD 600 / 650 connectors? Looks like it's a tight fit...
I used L-4E6S (24 AWG wires) and it did turn out a hair stiffer than I might have preferred. L-4E5C has 26 AWG wires and an O.D. of 4.8mm vs 6.0mm, so that would work fine if one wanted a more limp cable. I might pick up a length of that someday and give it a try. The Techflex jacketing probably adds another little bit of stiffness.
I also have some Mogami W2534 which is basically their equivalent of L-4ES6. Haven't made any cables with it yet, but one difference (on paper) is that the Mogami's shielding is supposedly easier to unravel when stripping the ends. On the Canare the shield is woven all around and takes a minute or three to straighten out it before it can be twisted & soldered. Looks like W2893 is Mogami's equivalent to L-4E5C.
The shield is not connected to anything at the headphones. It's simply cut off at the Y where it splits for the L and R drivers, with only the two wires going to each side of the headphones. At the 4-pin XLR end, the shield is soldered to the connector's body tab, to act as a theoretical interference drain, though I don't have any real interference issues in my home office. On the pigtails that convert to standard 1/4" tip-ring-sleeve, I have the shield connected at both ends. So at the 1/4" TRS end, the L-, R-, and shield are all soldered to the sleeve. I don't know if it would make any difference to float the shield on the unbalanced connectors. The way I have it, I guess it could be adding some small amount of capacitance.
On the little Senn connectors it definitely helps to have a fine tip iron. The standard issue 30W Radio Shack iron with 1/8" tip is a bit large and unwieldy for this task, but could work if you have a steady hand and like playing Operation. The connectors I used look like these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/181162830155
After soldering them up, I filled the space with 2-part epoxy (masking/painter's tape the little grooves on the sides so it doesn't leak out). I also worked a little epoxy into the "strain relief" (and I use that term very loosely here). After the epoxy cured I used a bit of heat shrink to give them a little extra support. I would consider that mandatory with these particular connectors as they are somewhat flimsy by themselves. There's also epoxy inside the heat shrink at the Y point on the cable. The whole thing is pretty sturdy.