[Gradofan2]

I wouldn't stack the DV332... it gets pretty warm... and really may even need additional "cooling." See my prior post in one of the DV332 threads, describing how I cooled mine (e.g. removed the bottom plate, elevated it, and trained a 4 inch portable fan on it - WalMart) - way cooler now.

 

[windrider]

Ok i took it off the zero. Is there anyway i can know whether its running at a "safe" temperature? As it is right now i cant leave my finger on it for more than 1 or 2 seconds. Is it safe to leave it on forever?

 

[nor_spoon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by windrider /img/forum/go_quote.gif Ok i took it off the zero. Is there anyway i can know whether its running at a "safe" temperature? As it is right now i cant leave my finger on it for more than 1 or 2 seconds. Is it safe to leave it on forever?

The DV332 gets quite hot. You should never leave it on when not around. Hot tubes are in the open, which could start a fire.

 

[G-E]

Received some NOS RCA EF95 black plates, and some NOS Sylvanias 6AK5 blackplates, both advertised as being made in the 60's.

I like them both over the small stock tubes.

The RCA's make the soundstage HUUUUGE, with very much air between instruments and voices. The individual intruments/voices lack body, and the space between them is too big for my taste. The positioning is weird on many tracks, intruments to far spread, voices far in the distance. I think they are very analitycal, not so musical. While listening to them its way to easy to hear errors/flaws in recordings. Sadly they made half my music collection (many mp3, but lossless files too) sound like crap, and made it very hard to get involved in the music. One thing i could really appreciate tho, is that it revealed aucoustics in good recordings, the sense that u can almost see and smell the envoirement the track was recorded in, never heard that before

The Sylvanias on the other hand, sound very musical. Less soundstage, less seperation, more warmth, easier to listen to, and way more involving than the RCA's. I will keep the Sylvanias in for now

Now to patiently wait till the 6S19P ULys and Mullards m8100 that i ordered arrive, and see how they impact the sound

Btw, i have a AKG 501 on the way, 120 Ohm, anyone has heard these cans on the 332?

 

[magnetiq]

I'm still waiting for the Svets to come to see if they make any difference, but I got a surprise when the Tung Sol's came in this morning..

..erm, wow! Now this is what I've been looking for, I'm glad I went through all that nonsense because I now appreciate how much better the sound is

.

They are so very musical, I can't stop listening - I think I'm hearing details in the music accentuated with these, soundstage is nice and wide too. They've smoothed out some of the shrill vocals at the high-end which is the biggest plus for me whilst still keeping the sound crisp, and the bass seems 'wholesome' if you understand that. Very happy with these valves, i'm honestly so content now, I love this amp

.

 

[davve]

i received my svets 6S19P-V today. so far so good. Both WE 403b and CV4010 sounds good. WE 403b has some odd bass .I have some LM Ericsson on way too. Is the tung-sol 5654 best?

 

[Gradofan2]

Quote:

Originally Posted by davve /img/forum/go_quote.gif i received my svets 6S19P-V today. so far so good. Both WE 403b and CV4010 sounds good. WE 403b has some odd bass .I have some LM Ericsson on way too. Is the tung-sol 5654 best?

Don't know whether they're "the best"... but... they're great!

Very rich, textured, solid sound.

 

[nor_spoon]

Quote:

Originally Posted by davve /img/forum/go_quote.gif i received my svets 6S19P-V today. so far so good. Both WE 403b and CV4010 sounds good. WE 403b has some odd bass .I have some LM Ericsson on way too. Is the tung-sol 5654 best?

All are very good tubes. I have not heard the Tung-Sol 5654, but of the rest, I prefer the M8100 (CV4010), and the Ericsson's. I think the WE's are a bit odd too, but many here like them

 

[jellojoe]

Quote:

Originally Posted by G-E /img/forum/go_quote.gif ... Btw, i have a AKG 501 on the way, 120 Ohm, anyone has heard these cans on the 332?

My current favorite headphones on the DV332 along with the K340. The Mullard M8100 is excellent with the K501, but I think the Tung-Sol 6AK5W is even better since the K501 needs a little bit more help in the bass region than other phones.

 

[magnetiq]

Has anyone tried the following brands of tube yet??

VOSHOD
General Electric
VALVO

 

[Godkin]

The VOSHKOD 6J1P-EV are good tubes, but in my 332 they hummed like crazy. VALVOs are quite rare, but they do come up for auction on E-Bay the odd time. I've been on the brink of buying them a few times, but I've either pulled out at the last minute or been outbid.

I've bought four AEG/TELEFUNKEN 6AK5Ws, so I can't wait to see how they sound. TELEFUNKEN have an awesome reputation in the tube world, so it sound be "intertesting".

 

[magnetiq]

Telefunken eh?

I see valvos on ebay, but a bit hesitant :/ Also see Delcos, priced similar to mullards.

*I think i found the AEG valves, very nice price but i'll wait to hear your reaction

 

[Godkin]

I've a pair of TELEFUNKEN ECL85s running in my little DV FIGARO. Great sound, but very much on the leaner and detailed side of the tube sound spectrum: they don't have the tube lushness or warmth, but I love them. Always wanted a pair to try, so we'll see.

 

[PrTv]

Speaking about fuse upgrade, today I've just bought the ISOclean fuse, and I can say that it makes significant differences. I find that the amp sounds more open; and instrument separation is way better. Additionally, this fuse even reveals something I haven't heard with the stock fuse.

IMO its performance justifies the asking price (around $25).

By the way, when I removed the old fuse, I saw "Fuse 1A" printed at the fuse box, but when I took out the stock fuse, I found F3AL fuse inside the fuse box. I don't know why the factory-installed fuse is way higher than the rated spec.

However, when I took the fuse to the shop the seller told me that it's possible that the amp was designed to use with "Slow Blow Fuse" and that "Fuse 1A" was for slow-blow type. This is why they installed F3AL, which is Fast Act 3 Amp fuse, since 1A slow blow is equal to 3A fast act.

I don't know if he's correct, but I think it's also possible that the manufacturer just ignored the rated spec and installed that F3AL.

If any of you still use that stock fuse, could you please let me know if fuse installed in your unit is fast or slow type, as well as its rated amp?

FYI
"F" = Fast type
"T" = Time delay, which is Slow type

 

[Zodduska]

Interesting info about the fuses PrTv. When I get home after work I'll check which my amp has and report back here.