[Forte]

Fixed, Working fine now. Dodgy soldering on IC2 again, this time I removed it completely from the board(and R8 to make room) and resoldered it from scratch. Don't know why but found the two regulators harder to solder than the DAC.

 

[kuroguy]

You might want to add a couple of really tight zip ties around the input wire and the output wire to prevent pulling the wires out of the case.

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by Forte /img/forum/go_quote.gif Fixed, Working fine now. Dodgy soldering on IC2 again, this time I removed it completely from the board(and R8 to make room) and resoldered it from scratch. Don't know why but found the two regulators harder to solder than the DAC.

Very nice!!

 

[Forte]

Quote:

Originally Posted by kuroguy /img/forum/go_quote.gif You might want to add a couple of really tight zip ties around the input wire and the output wire to prevent pulling the wires out of the case.

No need, the grommets hold the wires very tightly.

 

[individual6891]

Quote:

Originally Posted by tomb /img/forum/go_quote.gif BTW, this is what will be shipping very soon:

Just wondering if the Bantam will ever be modified to run the PCM2704 chip? Seems like TI are going to discontinue the PCM2702 soon as they're not recommending it (USB Audio - USB DACs - PCM2702 - TI.com)

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by individual6891 /img/forum/go_quote.gif Just wondering if the Bantam will ever be modified to run the PCM2704 chip? Seems like TI are going to discontinue the PCM2702 soon as they're not recommending it (USB Audio - USB DACs - PCM2702 - TI.com)

We've planned for that eventuality, but there are still several hundred at both DigiKey and Mouser:

DigiKey - 693
Mouser - 570
Newark - 37
Farnell - 46
Avnet - 25
WPI - 285

I just confirmed the DigiKey, Mouser, and Newark stock directly on their site as well. There are plenty of PCM chips left for us for quite awhile.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

I'm going thru the BOM, for C8 is lists a Ceramic 22uf 6.3V X5R 10%.... but the Digi-Key P/N is for a 10uf 10V X7R 10%. Is this okay, or should I look for a 22uf one?

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by bmwpowere36m3 /img/forum/go_quote.gif I'm going thru the BOM, for C8 is lists a Ceramic 22uf 6.3V X5R 10%.... but the Digi-Key P/N is for a 10uf 10V X7R 10%. Is this okay, or should I look for a 22uf one?

It's OK. The 22uf for C8 is marginally better, but the 10uf at DigiKey will work, too. DigiKey doesn't have the 22uf in that size and type.

 

[TheEKey]

Hi Guys,

After a long time struggle on my first bantam dac, I decided to give it up....

But I assembled 2 later and they are all working.

Question in short, elna silmic II is signed, right?
For using as CL and CR, how should I put it? Negative sign to output audio? Please advise.

Matt

 

[tomb]

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEKey /img/forum/go_quote.gif Hi Guys, After a long time struggle on my first bantam dac, I decided to give it up.... But I assembled 2 later and they are all working. Question in short, elna silmic II is signed, right? For using as CL and CR, how should I put it? Negative sign to output audio? Please advise. Matt

Actually, if you follow convention - Positive should go toward the DAC, Negative to OL and OR. This is because the caps are grounded through R5 and R6 at OL and OR and Ground is Negative on the PCB.

 

[Gross]

*sigh* today I revisited a Bantam that I could not get up and running a few months ago. Reflowed everything, and it all looks great. 4.77v and 3.29v respectivly. I didn't really want to remove the 2702, especially since I just replaced all the through hole stuff. Oh well. Thanks for listening.

 

[joneeboi]

Been there, man. Actually, I'm there right now.

I've removed a 2702 before, and it tore off a lot of the traces. I just want to build a whole bunch of them just for the experience. I've got two ready to be built right now, so we'll see what steadiness my hands will have. =T

 

[Gross]

Yeah, luckily I have the parts for 2 more, I will need one ready to pair with your proto Carrie next weekend

 

[rds]

Christmas eve 2008, I'm frantically putting together my last gift - a bantam cable DAC for my brother.

I carefully put in each component doubling checking everything as I go along. Then I painstakingly fit the pcb into the little cable DAC case. Plug it in ...and... nothing! I Take it out check every part. Look for solder bridges. Everything looks fine

About it to be picked up for a Christmas eve party I toss the DAC in a box and never looked at it again. Until today.

I happened across a note on the Bantam DAC site that says pin 4 needs to be connected (a pcb error). Well I found that box, checked my DAC and sure enough pin 4 has the pcb error.
Well looks like it'll be Christmas in July

Fyi, I did have other gifts for my brother so I wasn't empty handed. But I did promise I would get that DAC built one day.

 

[Forte]

Quote:

Originally Posted by rds /img/forum/go_quote.gif I happened across a note on the Bantam DAC site that says pin 4 needs to be connected (a pcb error). Well I found that box, checked my DAC and sure enough pin 4 has the pcb error. Well looks like it'll be Christmas in July

This may not be the cause of your Bantam not working, according to tomb's post here http://www.head-fi.org/forums/5447695-post410.html this should not stop it from working. When I built my cableDAC I realised I had not done this step on my first Bantam but it had still been working fine for 3 months without this connection, went back and fixed it though, easy enough to do.

Worth going over it again though with a fresh mind, you my find a simple mistake you missed the first time round.