cmoy problem - opamp getting hot
Aug 18, 2006 at 5:50 PM Post #31 of 35
Quote:

Originally Posted by Eisenhower
It works great,

one last question, My alps pot/switch is backwards, IE when I turn it on it starts out at the loudest setting, then tapers down.
Did I just solder my wipers in backwards? should I just switch them?



Yup, switch 'em.

Edit: any time you hand wire a pot, it's a good idea to measure resistance between a middle pin and outer pin to see where the "zero point" is when the pot is at minimum volume. The outer pin that reads (almost) zero ohms to the middle pin goes to ground. The other pin goes to your input jack and that should read the full pot resistance to the middle pin at minimum volume. After screwing it up a couple times you'll get the hang of it.
 
Aug 18, 2006 at 6:17 PM Post #32 of 35
Quote:

Originally Posted by Pars
The information that scimmia posted is incorrect. With the opamp out, you should see an open between pins 3 and 5 (the + inputs) and the outputs (pins 1 and 7, IIRC). With the opamp in, who knows... probably depends upon which opamp it is, and probably isn't relevant or discernable anyhow.


You did't read my post very well. I wasn't talking about the pins in the socket, I was talking about the actual input and actual output, not the opamp in and out. From my reading of the schematic, with the opamp out and the battery disconnected, they should be connected through the virtual ground. Even at the pins, though, they would still be connected through R2 , R3, R4, and R5

Eisenhower: glad you got it working.

Edit: Plus my point for that test was the fact that he got sound through the amp with no opamp and battery, I thought maybe something was connecting the input to the output around the resistors I mentioned.
 
Aug 18, 2006 at 9:53 PM Post #33 of 35
Quote:

Originally Posted by Scimmia
You did't read my post very well. I wasn't talking about the pins in the socket, I was talking about the actual input and actual output, not the opamp in and out. From my reading of the schematic, with the opamp out and the battery disconnected, they should be connected through the virtual ground. Even at the pins, though, they would still be connected through R2 , R3, R4, and R5


Ooops, yes you are right, I overlooked that.
 
Aug 20, 2006 at 6:03 PM Post #34 of 35
Hmm, I switched the wipers, didnt work, then I switched the inputs and it didnt work either.
It still clicks on to the highest volume then tapers down. Not what I want... I want it to click on to the lowest volume, then taper up, that way when I turn it on I dont get blasted with all that volume.

Maybe I need to swith the wipers back and just have the inputs switched?
confused.gif
 
Aug 20, 2006 at 6:28 PM Post #35 of 35
Quote:

Originally Posted by Eisenhower
Hmm, I switched the wipers, didnt work, then I switched the inputs and it didnt work either.
It still clicks on to the highest volume then tapers down. Not what I want... I want it to click on to the lowest volume, then taper up, that way when I turn it on I dont get blasted with all that volume.

Maybe I need to swith the wipers back and just have the inputs switched?
confused.gif



It sounds like you switched channels, instead if switching the outer two pins, leaving each channel on the same set of pins. If you do it right it will work the way you want, which is the standard way all pots are wired. Measure resistance and match the board to the schematic and think about what is happening to that piece of the circuit,
 

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