Chord Mojo Modification ??
Oct 21, 2020 at 5:29 PM Thread Starter Post #1 of 81

Kentajalli

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I know, I know - you are probably thinking "what is this guy talking about?"
I have done a minor Mod on my Mojo, that I like to share.
It has two benefits, one was by intent (by design) and the other by accident!
Those of you who have a Chord Mojo, do know about the heating issue.
Well not much of an issue really, but are aware of it. It is specially vivid while charging and listening, when it gets really warm!
So here is what I did:
- Put a clean towel on a table, and ground myself.
- using the correct size tool (don't damage those hex bolts), I carefully opened the back, taking care to open it with the bottom plate facing up, otherwise you may loose those marbles!
- carefully disconnect the battery.
- there are two screws holding the board to the bottom shell, open them and carefully remove the board and put it somewhere safe.
- there are thermal-pads used in computers that aid cooling by thermally connecting microchips to metal heatsinks, such as this.you need 1.5mm thickness.
- Simply cut pieces and cover the bottom shell, where circuit board goes, making sure you remove protective plastics from both sides of the pad..
- put the board back in, and screw it down - you can gently press the board down so it would sink into the pad a little - don't worry, the pad is not electrically conductive.
- reconnect the battery lead.
- use very small (I mean small) amount of thermal paste (such as this) to the top shell where the two parts meet. this is to make sure the two Alu shells make a thermal contact after re-assembly.
- gently put the two halves together (top shell on the table - back shelf going on) - DO NOT PRESS JUST YET.
- gently drop the hex bolts back in the holes - finger tighten the middle four bolts gently, not too tight yet - simply slide and align the the half shells perfectly, you may need to loosen and tighten the bolts slightly to get a perfect fit. once you are satisfied, tighten the middle four bolts first and then the outer four bolts.
- wipe off any excess paste from sides with a paper tissue.
- make sure the unit turns on, sometimes it may not, in that case you have to open it, detach the battery, wait a few seconds and reconnect.

The results;
- the thermal pad takes the excess heat from board to sends it to the botton shell, which in turn shares it with the top shell. with all that exposed metal surface, it looses heat faster. All of the metal surface would reach the same equilibrium temperature (no hot spots), which is a little lower and it would feel cooler.
- by some miracle! (because I don't know why!) the battery lasts longer :raised_hands: . I get about an extra hour min. The battery indicator just takes longer to go from blue to green, and stays on green longer.
- sonically, it remains its excellent self.

From Elsewhere on Headfi:
Kentajalli said:

UPDATE:
I have started to replace a dead battery for a friend.
So I took the old one out to see what it is.
The battery dimensions are ( 64mm X 34mm X 14mm ) if anybody is interested - nothing bigger would fit!
It is 7.4V 1650mAh.
It is comprised of two flat Lipo batteries ( Model 653465G ).
Operating temperature Charging: 0°C ~ 45°C Discharging: -20°C ~60°C
Charging voltage is 8.4V.
The only heat sources are two large chips in the centre.
In case anyone was interested.

Click to expand...
2nd Update:
Recently I asserted that : we are not clever enough to re-engineer this device!
I am about to tell you what I have done in stark contrast to that statement, just for fun and for the heck of it.
While I had the Mojo opened up, I thought I do something about the Heat management within Mojo.
So with the circuit board loose on a towel, I connect everything up to see from where the heat comes from.
While playing most of the heat comes from the two large chips in the centre (the system/input chip and the FPGA gate array)

1611606217949.jpeg


Warning first ; Be really carefull if you open it up, specially the click-buttons as their metal caps are only held in place with a tiny tape - I almost lost mine.
These chips are stuck to the underside of the battery, so they heat up, they transfer their heat to the battery, which is not a good idea - specially that their centers are the hot spots, so they heat up two spots on one side of one of the batteries. I thought I do something about that.
Next I connected the charger, to get the thing really hot!
Incidentally, the battery remains cool as a cucumber discharging or charging, so none of the heat is due to the batteries.
While charging, the circuit components on the underside of the board near the charging socket get really hot! enough to burn your finger if you keep it on it more than a few seconds. These components are sitting in an airgap (about 1-3 mm) above the bottom shell. They were next on my list.

1611608408073.png


1611615627699.png

The cluster of components on the left and centre can get really hot while charging.

Also the underside of the board where the large hot chips from otherside sit, also get hot - next item on the list.
So I carefully located these hot sections, and stuck 1.5mm and 2.5mm heat conducting pads on the bottom shell. these pads are widely used for cooling in computer systems.
This would thermally bond the hot components to the bottom shell, fairly easy.

To take the heat from the two large chips on the top away from the battery and to the shell to dissipate out, needed more effort.
So I cut a strip of pure copper sheet (17mm X 100mm X 0.5mm thick) and bent it into this shape.

1611609157437.png


1611612698361.png


It is so shaped so it would touch the tops of the chips, but avoid anything else on the circuit, the end wings have thin thermal pads attached to them, because ultimately they would be touching the inside of the top shell to pass the heat on. The two black pieces of sponge would press the copper to the chips to make a good contact.
Thermal pads are attached to the chips (0.5mm thick), and the copper heatsink is inserted on the top shell.

1611609537626.png


Lastly, a tiny amount of heatsink compound is applied to the top shell contact areas with the bottom shell, and the shells are brought together gently.

1611609772200.png


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The foam inserts on the strip cause the shells to sit apart a few mm's - as I tighten the screws gently and in sequence, the shell would close up, squeezing a little paste out. no worries, it cleans up easily with white spirit and tissue paper.
The strip of copper is now sitting with a small airgap to the battery, hopefully it is cooling the chips and conducting the heat to the outer shells.
So what did it achieve?
- Mojo is a few grams heavier, not by much, but you can tell!
- Within a minute of switching on, the entire case starts to get warm, much faster than before, it may even feel like it is warming more, but it is not.
- Charging and listening at the same time, causes the case to warm up really quickly, I take this as a good sign. It means the heat is getting out quickly so it can dissipate faster, causing the final temperature equilibrium to be a few degrees lower. Provided you don't use a case, as it would nullify all this effort.
- Wonderfully the initial fizzing noise while charging is gone! I assume the thermal pads stop the buzzing components from vibrating. Mojo just goes into charge mode without making any noise.
- The entire shell is at same temperature, no hot spots.
- As I write this it has been playing for 3 hours straight, it is just warm to touch - Just!
- I believe the battery lasts a little longer, but I have not actually tested this.
(A few days later I wrote:
Since last night I have been running the Mojo to see how long the battery lasts.
So far it has done about 8.5 hours - still going, but the battery is flashing red, it surely lasts longer (USB Input).
The current battery is about a year old.)


Well I had fun doing it.

BTW - this is my DIY interconnect from my phone to Mojo.

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It is about 750mm long, has a tiny USB hub and a MicroSD card reader soldered in the middle, two small ferrite cores at ends. The MicroSD card is 512GB, it holds my music. The phone detects both the card and Mojo through the same cable. Cable is super flexible 3mm X 2mm.



Yet another Mod. related to Chord Mojo (copied from another thread)

BLUETOOTH ADDON FOR MOJO

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Review of XDuoo 05BL Pro and Chord Mojo
Ok - The item arrived from China today faster than expected.
For those of you not familiar with this device - this is a $58 (Nov 2020) Bluetooth reciever with a single digital coax output. It is made for XDuoo's own DAC, but as it happens can be connected to a Chord Mojo to add bluetooth to it.

So here is my quick find after about an hour or two with the device.
Pros:
- Small, cute, light. Does function properly as it should!
- better sound quality than expected (after some minor discoveries)
- pretty good range! see later
- easy to use, media buttons work too.
- cheap enough
Cons:
- Not a lot actually

This item is about 1mm thinner than Mojo, not counting its flared ears at ends. And internally the whole thing is actually a littler smaller than Mojo's width - so technically for those who are good with DIY and a fine saw, it can be made to fit the exact size of Mojo's end with cutting off the sides carefully and repositioning the jack, to make it look like a mini Poly ! Those who dont want to do so much, can simply resolder the output leads internally to the other (otherwise not connected) jack, and remove the current jack, to make a reasonable fit for Mojo.

IMG_20201103_103018.jpg IMG_20201103_103208.jpg

IMG_20201103_120234.jpg IMG_20201103_120242.jpg
I found a piece of plastic that fitted into the optival input of the Mojo, a drop of glue and a bit of black nail varnish later - it looks like this - not so pretty, but functional
Indeed it does have LDAC, aptX HD etc. at varying bitrates and sampling frequencies - they all function well, and Mojo responds to differing sampling frequencies with colour change.
Sound quality:
You see I did have a Fiio BTR5 and I did put it through its paces extensively. This guy is better by a good margin!
For one thing, Fiio had a terrible range with LDAC 990kb/s - less than a meter sometimes! XDuoo managed a good 4 meters in opensight, it only started to crackle once I stepped out of the room.
Distortion is low acros the bandwidth. BUT the bandwidth becomes narrower - the very low bass and very high treble gets muted a little.
Also compared to USB, sound looses that extra airiness that Mojo can resolve around instruments - sound stage flattens a bit.
Remember, I am comparing a lossless USB direct connection to a compressed (by the phone) BT alternative. A lot of it is/was to be expected - so I am nit-picking, there is no way a compressed audio BT connection was going to match a direct lossless connection.
Indeed the device is doing very well. I am impressed.
Codecs, Sampling Frequencies & bit rates
I played with those settings, to cut the long story short, the best combination was
LDAC 16bit 48kHz 990kb/s
Indeed 24bit made no improvements to my ear (still early days though), 660kb/s sounded as good too. However 44.1kHz and 96kHz settings made the sound loose a bit of its three dimensionality, perhaps because of extra data the codec has to compress.
However, somehow on well recorded SACD material the sound was a little better on 24bit 96kHz, but on standard CD, I preferred the mentioned setting.
Mistakes I made at first !
this is a little warning section, so you don't repeat my mistakes.
- If it is the first time you connect anything to COAX input of Mojo, the volume is set at zero! remember to put it up, or you wonder why there is no sound! Also Mojo remembers the volume setting for different inputs independently.
- I use Neutron player on my Android phone, I forgot to set High-Res Bluetooth under Generic driver settings. This meant that Hi-res audio was not routed directly to BT codec.
- My bloody phone activated its internal Dolby Atmos crap enhancer by default on bluetooth, so what I heard at beginning was very off-putting. took me a little while before I realized the damn thing comes on by itself.
Once it was switched off the sound became a very close version of USB direct connection.
Conclusion
to add bluetooth functionality to a Mojo at this price is a steal! never mind one that sounds good enough not to embarrass itself.
Besides apart from Poly I do not know of another alternative! do you ?
I have not checked battery performance yet - I will report anything else I find.
Weirdly! or is it I am imagining it, my Mojo seems to keep its cool connected to COAX compared to USB , I mean it has not warmed up yet after about an hour so far! Curious . . .
I have known myself to change my mind after long auditioning a device.
But until (if) I do, I recommend this, it really impressed me.
Diana Krall, on the girl in the other room sounds very clear and lush with XDuoo and Mojo - I easily listened to the entire album while writing this.

IMG_20201103_120211.jpg IMG_20201103_120219.jpg IMG_20201103_125201.jpg
 
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May 19, 2021 at 10:44 AM Post #3 of 81
Chord Mojo TT modifications:

- these Mod's are not sanctioned by CHORD or anyone associated with them.
- Doing any modification surely invalidates your warranty.
- Can seriously damage your equipment, if not careful or knowledgeable enough.
- Any sound quality benefits expressed here are subjective, and nat based on scientific reality.
- Mojo works and sounds best in Factory standard format (my view)

- CHORD is squarely to blame for such attempts, because they do not supply enough spare batteries cheaply and conveniently.

Since there has been so many solutions, ideas and claims offered elsewhere in this forum, I thought I attempt to centralize them here, as in the past some members have indicated (correctly) that such posts are bordering on "not subject related".

Elsewhere in other threads:
mykeldg said:
Fun tweak : disconnect the internal battery and connect to a Linear Power Supply (like Topping P50).The result is a more lively & expansive sound. I tried to compare it with the internal battery as well as power bank. Ultimately, the result is subtle, but once I heard the LPS, going back to without sounded relatively dull and compressed.
Kentajalli said:
The Topping P50 , as good as it maybe, only provides 5V or 15V !
Mojo requires 7V min. upto 8.5V max.
Isn't there a mismatch in there, somewhere?
damdl said:


Dalším krokem bylo opětovné sestavení, proto jsem použil část lepidla na baterii a přilepil ji na superkondenzátor, aby se zajistilo, že superkondenzátor nebude chrastit kolem:
1615846640262.png


Také jsem přidal nějaké vycpávky na spodní stranu superkondenzátoru, aby to dobře sedělo a neodlepovalo se:

1615847012310.png


A je to, teď mám Mojo, který nepotřebuje baterii, jsem si jist, že to není způsob, jakým by Rob Watts zamýšlel, aby Mojo fungoval, pokud vím zítra, můj superkapacitor by mohl vyhodit a zničit moji jednotku, zatím to bylo všechno dobré. Udělejte to na své vlastní riziko.

1615847293249.png




Chord Mojo modification to desktop version Mojo SC​

Opening Chord Mojo

To open Chord Mojo you will need hex key. Mojo is Made in England, so ordinary metric hex keys (here in Europe) will not be useful. You will need to get inch size hex key, concretely 1/16“(approximately metric 1.59 mm).​

Disconnecting of battery

Softly disconnect battery from PH connector and remove it from chassis (battery is hold with sticky tape from which needs to be unstacked). This way you will free space for inserting block of capacitators.​

1621699874136.png

Creating block of capacitators

Prepare six pieces of BIGCAP® BUP002R8L805FA. They are 8F/2.8V electrolytic supercapacitators(SC). At first, connect three of them into series to multiply operating voltage to 8.4 V. That is a voltage level of battery power supply, which was removed.​

But with series connection you will also get decrease in capacity of SC from 8 F to 2,66͘͘ F. Thus, we need to create twins and connect them into parallel – 2x3. By such connection you will get sum of both series capacity, which will now reach target level 5.33͘ F. During fabrication take care about fulfilment of correct polarization! (Negative end is marked with minus (-) on the body of capacitor and positive terminal is longer that of the negative one)​

Connecting the SC block​

Now it is time to add, for previously created block of SC (5.33͘ F/8.4V), supply cables. The end of supply cable needs to be crimped and inserted to PH plug (2PIN, 2mm). Positive terminal is on the right side of the plug.​

Now we can put SC block to the freed space after battery in Mojo. My advice is to paste the back with new sticky tape. After that connect it into Mojo printed circuit board. Then the power supply needs to be connected and Mojo left power off.​

Now the SC is connected to voltage and is being formatted. Advance could be watched on voltmeter, when operational voltage reached 8.4V the SC is prepared for operation. But it can be just left connected alone and within one hour it will be ready.​

If SC will not be properly formatted, then after ca. 5s after power on, instead of relay connecting output, will Mojo just shut down (after switching power on, the Mojo is for a while disconnected because of protection). But for a the very first power on (after modification) it happens always, so the Mojo needs to be switched on repeatedly. Same situation happens after Mojo SC is disconnected from power supply for a longer period, where is best to leave it back on voltage for a little moment before turning it on.​

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Sound

The sound of Mojo in this desktop modification is clearer, the lows get toughen and vigor. Most important is however a huge uprise of dynamic, records get body and acquires new life. That all in such level, that retrospectively the previous sound will seems as being dry and under cover.​

Order shortcuts

https://www.tme.eu/en/details/bup002r8l805fa/supercapacitors/bigcap/

https://www.tme.eu/en/details/sph-200bk26/raster-signal-connectors-2-00mm/jst/

https://www.tme.eu/en/details/phr-2/raster-signal-connectors-2-00mm/jst/

Kentajalli said:
May I suggest two ideas:
1- Use a 3.3k resistor across each SC. they gently drain each SC when not in use. Also moment after switch on, or in case of tolerances between different SC's , it provides a better division of powersupply voltage across each SC.
2- From your pictures, I don't think you would be able to close Mojo top shell back on again, if that is the case, you can go all the way and do away with the noisy charging circuit of Mojo, instead use a 12V linear external powersupply connected to the SC's via a diode and a current limiting resistor of about 22R/3W.
Mojo uses about 150mA if I am correct, the diode and the 22R/3W drop about 4V , so the SC's see 8V. Mojo operates down to 7V.
If you can close the shell, then find a way of running a cable inside.

For the record, I do not believe Mojo running on battery alone, is going to be any inferior to running on Sc's - but hey - it might, and it is fun to do.

Kentajalli said:
Well this issue has come up time and time again.
In short, Mojo only has a charging port, THAT usb is not a power socket. Whether you connect a common USB charger or the cleanest super-duper powersupply to it, it does not make a bit of difference - it just activates Mojo's internal noisy switch-mode charging circuit, designed purely to charge the battery (which incidently apt for the job).
By connecting a clean linear powersupply directly to the supercaps (akin TT I believe) you bypass the charging circuit.
Mojo, without a battery, powered by the noisy charging circuit, should most definitely sound worse than, with battery or SC's.

@vlach said:
I hear no difference with or without the battery.

@Kentajalli said:

1621089954516.png

Assuming Mojo draws 150mA (I just leave Mojo ON all the time), voltage drops in red show approx. values.
Additional plastic 100nF's are there in case of RF carrying over external cables to powersupply.
3K3's split the voltage. 22R is a current limiting resistor, and in case there is any ripple on the supply, provides additional smoothing. The diode is for safety.
At no-current i.e. Mojo-off , each SC would see about 3.75V, don't worry! the SC's should charge to about 3V and stop, also there is no current flow, all is good.
This is a simple but functional alternative, should you decide to use an external 12V regulated powersupply.
I recently picked up a Chord Mojo used that's been modified to run from an external power supply. The battery was toast and it doesn't have one anymore

What they've done is remove the optical out port and install DC plug that's connected to the battery terminal on the board. The power supply is 7.4v and I'll provide a photo. It works quite well but there's an issue with slight electrical noise in the background using sensitive balanced armature IEMs.

It also runs from USB without the battery and is silent, sounds quite good as well but others mention the original battery was 7.4v. When you power it up from USB only it makes a buzzing noise for about 5-seconds that fades into a much quieter buzz that remains

(please explain anything needed about that)


What I'm interested in is finding a really clean 7.4v power supply to try and eliminate that electrical noise so if anyone educated in the area can help that would be great.

Here's some photos.



 
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May 19, 2021 at 10:51 AM Post #4 of 81
I recently picked up a Chord Mojo used that's been modified to run from an external power supply. The battery was toast and it doesn't have one anymore

What they've done is remove the optical out port and install DC plug that's connected to the battery terminal on the board. The power supply is 7.4v and I'll provide a photo. It works quite well but there's an issue with slight electrical noise in the background using sensitive balanced armature IEMs.

It also runs from USB without the battery and is silent, sounds quite good as well but others mention the original battery was 7.4v. When you power it up from USB only it makes a buzzing noise for about 5-seconds that fades into a much quieter buzz that remains

(please explain anything needed about that)


What I'm interested in is finding a really clean 7.4v power supply to try and eliminate that electrical noise so if anyone educated in the area can help that would be great.
Well obviously, your powersupply is not a clean one.
It says it is a "switching" powersupply - they usually are quite noisy.
I suggest you find or build an 8 volt "Linear Power supply = LPS" powersupply.
You can even build one using a transformer, bridge rectifier, capacitors and an LM317T voltage regulator.
Better still, find a 9V LPS (easier to find) , but add one diode in series, and a large capacitor or super-capacitor inside MOJO for ultimate electrical cleanliness and safety.
 
May 19, 2021 at 12:04 PM Post #5 of 81
Well obviously, your powersupply is not a clean one.
It says it is a "switching" powersupply - they usually are quite noisy.
I suggest you find or build an 8 volt "Linear Power supply = LPS" powersupply.
You can even build one using a transformer, bridge rectifier, capacitors and an LM317T voltage regulator.
Better still, find a 9V LPS (easier to find) , but add one diode in series, and a large capacitor or super-capacitor inside MOJO for ultimate electrical cleanliness and safety.
If you look towards the bottom of the label, it does say 'LPS'?
 

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May 19, 2021 at 12:55 PM Post #6 of 81
May 19, 2021 at 6:56 PM Post #7 of 81
Well obviously, your powersupply is not a clean one.
It says it is a "switching" powersupply - they usually are quite noisy.
I suggest you find or build an 8 volt "Linear Power supply = LPS" powersupply.
You can even build one using a transformer, bridge rectifier, capacitors and an LM317T voltage regulator.
Better still, find a 9V LPS (easier to find) , but add one diode in series, and a large capacitor or super-capacitor inside MOJO for ultimate electrical cleanliness and safety.

I thought as much with the switching power supply being used. the electrical noise it makes is really faint and can be only heard with my Tralucent Audio low impdance IEMs (cannot hear it with HD800S) but obviously want it gone.

I'm not tech savy enough to be adding capacitors and things like that.

What do you think of this linear power supply, I can get one in 7volts

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/273113157914?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=53f87fece4a04e919acd8f4d1976b231&pid=100675&rk=8&rkt=15&mehot=none&sd=324630027480&itm=273113157914&pmt=1&noa=1&pg=2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:21890cc8-b8f5-11eb-be5e-7e2cf53a9ac1|parentrq:86d62b741790acb1145c5071fff9d7ac|iid:1
 
May 19, 2021 at 9:53 PM Post #8 of 81
I thought as much with the switching power supply being used. the electrical noise it makes is really faint and can be only heard with my Tralucent Audio low impdance IEMs (cannot hear it with HD800S) but obviously want it gone.

I'm not tech savy enough to be adding capacitors and things like that.

What do you think of this linear power supply, I can get one in 7volts
Seems good enough.
However, Mojo requires 7V min. it is happy upto about 8.5V at least, perhaps even more.
If you can get an 8V, it works better. otherwise 9V, and an inline diode, inside Mojo (can be soldered on the cable easily).
you see the diode serves two purposes.
1 - protects Mojo against reverse voltage, a must against unofficial external Powersupply .
2 - it drops the voltage by about 0.7/0.8 V , turning a standard 9V supply to 8.3V.
8.3 V is ideal voltage for Mojo.
Mojo batteries when charged are at 8.2V. when dead at 6.9V when Mojo switches off.
pay someone to put the diode in, simple job, if you do, put a capacitor across the voltage lines too.
the capacitor will soak up remaining RF or otherwise noise, picked up by the cable.
 
May 20, 2021 at 12:32 AM Post #9 of 81
Seems good enough.
However, Mojo requires 7V min. it is happy upto about 8.5V at least, perhaps even more.
If you can get an 8V, it works better. otherwise 9V, and an inline diode, inside Mojo (can be soldered on the cable easily).
you see the diode serves two purposes.
1 - protects Mojo against reverse voltage, a must against unofficial external Powersupply .
2 - it drops the voltage by about 0.7/0.8 V , turning a standard 9V supply to 8.3V.
8.3 V is ideal voltage for Mojo.
Mojo batteries when charged are at 8.2V. when dead at 6.9V when Mojo switches off.
pay someone to put the diode in, simple job, if you do, put a capacitor across the voltage lines too.
the capacitor will soak up remaining RF or otherwise noise, picked up by the cable.

Alright mate, thanks for your advice.

Leave it with me, I'll check back if I go ahead. :)
 
May 20, 2021 at 8:36 PM Post #10 of 81
I was thinking this morning about 18650 batteries, using x2 of them which would equal 8.4 volts at full charge.

You could get a harness to hold the two of them so they can be removed for charging and have an DC plug on them that would connect to the Mojo.

What do you think about that as an option the power would be pretty clean right, and its affordable
 
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May 21, 2021 at 9:11 AM Post #11 of 81
I was thinking this morning about 18650 batteries, using x2 of them which would equal 8.4 volts at full charge.
Quick answer - The batteries would work!
Better still, Mojo should be able to charge them up, may take a little longer.
Extra care should be taken with polarity, reverse polarity can be dangerous.
HOWEVER
If you want to go down the battery route, just contact CHORD regarding a replacement battery, they would advise, with a little persistence , you could fing an official battery that goes inside and restore your Mojo to its factory condition.
Frankly, those who attempt such procedures, are those who intend on using Mojo as a table top DAC (TT), connected permenently to the wall.
 
May 21, 2021 at 11:48 AM Post #12 of 81
I was thinking this morning about 18650 batteries, using x2 of them which would equal 8.4 volts at full charge.

You could get a harness to hold the two of them so they can be removed for charging and have an DC plug on them that would connect to the Mojo.

What do you think about that as an option the power would be pretty clean right, and its affordable
I thought about that too but how would you run the cable inside the Mojo and still close the casing?
 
May 21, 2021 at 11:31 PM Post #13 of 81
Quick answer - The batteries would work!
Better still, Mojo should be able to charge them up, may take a little longer.
Extra care should be taken with polarity, reverse polarity can be dangerous.
HOWEVER
If you want to go down the battery route, just contact CHORD regarding a replacement battery, they would advise, with a little persistence , you could fing an official battery that goes inside and restore your Mojo to its factory condition.
Frankly, those who attempt such procedures, are those who intend on using Mojo as a table top DAC (TT), connected permenently to the wall.

It would be the cheaper option and because I vape devices here 18650 batteries are easily on hand.

I found this 18650 holder for pushbike flashlights that will come out at 8.4v.

https://tinyurl.com/3rjw7mcx

Then you'd just cut/solder a DC plug into the cable. Its just an option at this stage, I think overall I'd prefer mains power though, set and forget.


I thought about that too but how would you run the cable inside the Mojo and still close the casing?

Mines had the optical input removed and a DC plug installed so that easy for me but you could drill a hole above the USB ports and run the wiring through there with a DC plug connected to the wiring, only a small hole would be needed. It only needs to connect directly to the battery board harness so its pretty easy.

This persons done similar, there's plenty of room inside without the battery.
 

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May 22, 2021 at 6:26 AM Post #14 of 81
It would be the cheaper option and because I vape devices here 18650 batteries are easily on hand.
I found this 18650 holder for pushbike flashlights that will come out at 8.4v.
https://tinyurl.com/3rjw
I wonder why it takes FOUR batteries, two batteries gives you (max.) 8.4V when fully charged. They are rated at 3.7V nominal, 4.2V max. when charged.
As far as I know, even basic 18650 batteries have about 2500mAh capacity, so two fully charged batteries should be able to power up Mojo for up to 15 hours!!
Make sure the description is right before you order.
Incidentally, Rob Watts had wisely decided to charge the batteries to a max. of 8.2V and then stop, in order to increase the life span of the batteries.
Rechargable batteries do not like to be fully fully charged up, it shortens their life.
This device also seems to have some circuitry inside, if Yes, then charging the batteries using Mojo is out of the question.
May I suggest this one;
This is a simpler holder for two, smaller and flatter, and Mojo can then charge up the batteries using the standard USB charging port.
You can also strap it to Mojo and use it on the go too.
 
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May 22, 2021 at 1:16 PM Post #15 of 81
It would be the cheaper option and because I vape devices here 18650 batteries are easily on hand.

I found this 18650 holder for pushbike flashlights that will come out at 8.4v.

https://tinyurl.com/3rjw7mcx

Then you'd just cut/solder a DC plug into the cable. Its just an option at this stage, I think overall I'd prefer mains power though, set and forget.




Mines had the optical input removed and a DC plug installed so that easy for me but you could drill a hole above the USB ports and run the wiring through there with a DC plug connected to the wiring, only a small hole would be needed. It only needs to connect directly to the battery board harness so its pretty easy.

This persons done similar, there's plenty of room inside without the battery.
Thank you for the clarification and photos, this is a very interesting modification and i would be all over it except for the fact that i can't detect any SQ difference between these three scenarios:

1. Mojo with internal battery fully charged.
2. Mojo with internal battery removed and powered by 5V USB from iMac.
3. Mojo with internal battery removed and powered by external 5V battery pack.

I therefore use option #2 for desktop application and #3 on the go.
 

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