[x RELIC x]

Say, I were to build a Fiio X3ii to Mojo co-axial cable myself and, I am planning on using a TRS connector, instead of a TS connector on the Mojo end, would the ‘S’ on the TRS still be the Ground?

It looks like Moon-Audio and Uranus are using the TRS plus instead of the TS plug:
Uranus: http://www.head-fi.org/t/784602/chord-mojo-the-official-thread-please-read-the-3rd-post/18000#post_12601553
Moon Audio: http://www.head-fi.org/t/784602/chord-mojo-the-official-thread-please-read-the-3rd-post/15570#post_12489847


 


P.S:
I already own the Dyson cable with straight connectors but I want a cable with right angle connectors. Dyson Cable on eBay, do sell a Right Angle connectors version. But the right angled connector at Mojo’s end on this cable, looks like, it might not fit the hard case I bought for the Mojo. The other options out there are a little expensive. 

Since using a TRS on the Mojo end I would think the R needs to be ground and S is ignored. I would think there is no pin in the Mojo jack in the S position on a TRS cable. That's what I would bet on, but if I'm wrong you can re-solder.

 

[Peter Hyatt]

https://www.moon-audio.com/silver-dragon-usb-cable.html

Anyone using this for MacBook to Mojo? If so, noticeable change?

 

[markkr]

I ordered one this afternoon

 

[markkr]

https://www.moon-audio.com/silver-dragon-usb-cable.html

Anyone using this for MacBook to Mojo? If so, noticeable change?

I ordered one this afternoon

 

[PLUSSOUND]

  Say, I were to build a Fiio X3ii to Mojo co-axial cable myself and, I am planning on using a TRS connector, instead of a TS connector on the Mojo end, would the ‘S’ on the TRS still be the Ground?
 
It looks like Moon-Audio and Uranus are using the TRS plus instead of the TS plug:
Uranus: http://www.head-fi.org/t/784602/chord-mojo-the-official-thread-please-read-the-3rd-post/18000#post_12601553
Moon Audio: http://www.head-fi.org/t/784602/chord-mojo-the-official-thread-please-read-the-3rd-post/15570#post_12489847
 
 
 
 
P.S:
I already own the Dyson cable with straight connectors but I want a cable with right angle connectors. Dyson Cable on eBay, do sell a Right Angle connectors version. But the right angled connector at Mojo’s end on this cable, looks like, it might not fit the hard case I bought for the Mojo. The other options out there are a little expensive. 

 
Actually, both R and S would need to be ground for it to work properly.
 

Since using a TRS on the Mojo end I would think the R needs to be ground and S is ignored. I would think there is no pin in the Mojo jack in the S position on a TRS cable. That's what I would bet on, but if I'm wrong you can re-solder.

 

[rkt31]

has anybody tried foobar for android ? does it support external dac ? 

 

[noobandroid]

has anybody tried foobar for android ? does it support external dac ? 

my guess is native upsampling will occur

 

[headmanPL]

How does the lifatec cable compare to the QED performance cable?

Can't comment on lifatec. I can say that when I bought 1xQED performance cable, solely for the Mojo, I was so impressed, I replaced all my digital cables in my home setup with QED!

 

[Ike1985]

   
Actually, both R and S would need to be ground for it to work properly.
 

 
Thank you, looking forward to trying one of your cables. Look's legit.

 

[Mython]

Just to be clear (and as I noted in post #3), the pin-identities I used on that image were derived from the 3rd-party images posted here:      www.head-fi.org/t/784602/14985#post_12467535
 
Not disputing anything said, above, by PlusSound; just being as transparent as I can, to minimise any potential confusion, that's all.

 

[CNB3]

   
 

1. There was a spate of people reporting the 'device drawing too much power' issue, going as far back as (iirc) the iPhone 4 (long before Mojo was born!), after certain iOS updates. I don't know what Apple modified in iOS - whether it was a message-triggering threshold being lowered or a change in power-management strategy, or perhaps some other factor, I don't know.

 

1. You also mentioned that your connector was loose and kept falling out - it's not hard to see how this might influence an iDevice into saying 'device not supported'

 

1. Some low-quality cables have a resistance that is high-enough to cause problems (especially with charging) - but your remarks about your iDevice(s) claiming too much power is being drawn are curious, as Mojo shouldn't be drawing any power from them.

 

1. I would actually begin troubleshooting your situation by trying another CCK, as some people have reported definite issues with their CCKs, even though they are genuine Apple CCKs. Additionally, try to find a reasonably decent quality USB cable - needn't be an expensive one, but at least a branded one.

 
Thanks very very much Mython.  I bought another CCK (the upgrade, than includes a lightning pass-through) and that seems (fingers crossed) to have fixed the issue.
 
Any rec's re a decent USB to whatever size is correct to connect to the mojo you could link me to?  I do what to replace the way too long kindle cord I'm using, but don't want to fall down another rabbit hole of thousands of options - just send me a brand name rec or link or two (if not too much trouble) and I'll pull the trigger.  Ideally available on Amazon for convenience reasons, but I do live in NYC so can also hit Stereoexchange, B&H, etc.

 

[CNB3]

Actually, please disregard additional request - I should probably just check post 3.  Thanks again.

 

[Mython]

 

   
 

1. There was a spate of people reporting the 'device drawing too much power' issue, going as far back as (iirc) the iPhone 4 (long before Mojo was born!), after certain iOS updates. I don't know what Apple modified in iOS - whether it was a message-triggering threshold being lowered or a change in power-management strategy, or perhaps some other factor, I don't know.

 

1. You also mentioned that your connector was loose and kept falling out - it's not hard to see how this might influence an iDevice into saying 'device not supported'

 

1. Some low-quality cables have a resistance that is high-enough to cause problems (especially with charging) - but your remarks about your iDevice(s) claiming too much power is being drawn are curious, as Mojo shouldn't be drawing any power from them.

 

1. I would actually begin troubleshooting your situation by trying another CCK, as some people have reported definite issues with their CCKs, even though they are genuine Apple CCKs. Additionally, try to find a reasonably decent quality USB cable - needn't be an expensive one, but at least a branded one.

 
Thanks very very much Mython.  I bought another CCK (the upgrade, than includes a lightning pass-through) and that seems (fingers crossed) to have fixed the issue.
 
Any rec's re a decent USB to whatever size is correct to connect to the mojo you could link me to?  I do what to replace the way too long kindle cord I'm using, but don't want to fall down another rabbit hole of thousands of options - just send me a brand name rec or link or two (if not too much trouble) and I'll pull the trigger.  Ideally available on Amazon for convenience reasons, but I do live in NYC so can also hit Stereoexchange, B&H, etc.

 
I suppose it's quite possible that your old CCK may have just had a worn plug or socket, and a perfectly-OK MFI chip, or maybe it actually was the MFI chip
 
Whatever the case, I'm glad the new CCK seems to be working. If the issue happens again, don't be shy to post about it

 
I should also add (not just for you, but for others reading this), that it's important to always be careful not to place too much strain on Mojos microUSB sockets, as the socket, or its connection to the circuitboard, can be damaged, necessitating return-to-base for repair, which is no fun for anyone involved.
 
 
As for USB cable recommendations, I can't really say much more than what's already been posted in post #3.
 
 
All the best.
 
 
.

 

[Mython]

 

  Say, I were to build a Fiio X3ii to Mojo co-axial cable myself and, I am planning on using a TRS connector, instead of a TS connector on the Mojo end, would the ‘S’ on the TRS still be the Ground?
 
It looks like Moon-Audio and Uranus are using the TRS plus instead of the TS plug:
Uranus: http://www.head-fi.org/t/784602/chord-mojo-the-official-thread-please-read-the-3rd-post/18000#post_12601553
Moon Audio: http://www.head-fi.org/t/784602/chord-mojo-the-official-thread-please-read-the-3rd-post/15570#post_12489847
 
 
 
 
P.S:
I already own the Dyson cable with straight connectors but I want a cable with right angle connectors. Dyson Cable on eBay, do sell a Right Angle connectors version. But the right angled connector at Mojo’s end on this cable, looks like, it might not fit the hard case I bought for the Mojo. The other options out there are a little expensive. 

 
Actually, both R and S would need to be ground for it to work properly.
 

Since using a TRS on the Mojo end I would think the R needs to be ground and S is ignored. I would think there is no pin in the Mojo jack in the S position on a TRS cable. That's what I would bet on, but if I'm wrong you can re-solder.

 
 
@ PlusSound:
 
in the event of someone choosing to use a stereo TRS plug at the Mojo end, is this the connection layout you were describing, or did you mean something different?:
 

 

[NGSKGSncLWHmD9X]

Gents and ladies,
 
Some additional feedback from my end regarding the use of Mojo with optical cables.
 
My rig:
 
Macbook Pro (Audirvana) > QED Reference Optical Quartz Cable (with AQ Toslink to Mini-Toslink adapter) > Mojo > HD 800 S
 
As reported earlier with other optical users, my findings are also in line with what they and Rob had said. Compared to USB input, I find optical very slightly darker and smoother in presentation. The bass extension is great and the sound in general is in line with what people usually comment about HD 800 S. Superbly trasparent, analytical, yet still inviting and fun with a little bit more juice in the bass.
 
This is the cable I am using right now:
http://www.qed.co.uk/hdmi_digital/optical_digital_audio/qed_reference_optical_quartz_digital_audio_cable.htm
 
The small adapter to plug the cable to Macbook Pro:
http://www.audioquest.com/fiber-optics/3-5mm-toslink-adaptor
 
I also ordered another cable (see below) from QED to eliminate the adapter in between, just to make the signal path even clearer. Unfortunately, this cable is not the reference cable, but I assume the SQ will at least stay the same and be hopefully unaffected by this change.
 
http://www.qed.co.uk/hdmi_digital/optical_digital_audio/performance_optical_digital_audio_toslink-mini_toslink.html
 
I also posted my observations regarding HD 800 S to recommend my cans to someone else, there is some stuff on Mojo as well. I probably am not the only user with this simple rig but I thought people should know from one more POV.
 

  I recently switched to Chord Mojo and am using no amps at all. The reason behind that was simply the openness of its designer, Rob Watts. Everything he said about sound reproduction made much sense to me. I am considering Chord Dave these days if I can manage the shipping etc.
 
Now, some extra personal observations (YMMV).
 
The reason I bring up the Mojo subject is that they did something quite interesting with the product. Well, HD 800 was (almost) perfect but to tame the 6 khz peak and put some more juice to bass extension, Sennheiser did a couple of changes. Bass was extended by the addition of low frequency 2nd harmonic distortion. Now this helped with the extension but at the cost of giving an impression of a softer, warmer bass (of course compared to HD 800). That is why Tyll from innerfidelity said that HD 800 sounds more authoritative in bass. Now, this makes all the sense to me. But I did not want to lose that authoritative feel to it.
 
And then comes Rob Watts into the picture.
 
If you read what he did in Mojo, Hugo or Dave, he says that he paid extra care and attention to the issues like small signal non-linearity and timing of the transients. Without going into the details, these give a better depth and a good representation of the the start and finish of the notes.
 
Here is the post where he mentions those in a very detailed manner.
http://www.head-fi.org/t/800264/watts-up#post_12457933
(Jump to the section called "7. Starting and stopping of notes." to see what I am referring to as the point.)
 
So, now, to my ears and eyes, what was lost by adding the 2nd harmonic distortion was won back by the meticulousness of Mojo.
 
And after all, I was right with my reasoning. To my ears, from an acoustical POV, EVERY solo instrument I have listened to sound unbelievably organic. The harpsichord, piano, organ, classical guitar, you name it. The breaths, the cracking noise, the sound when you hear if the pedal is pressed on... all there with amazing accuracy.
 
Overall, it sounds a bit dark, soft and truer to its original. No brightness, no extra emphasis. And why do I say that and how can I know that?
 
Because this is also what a concert hall sounds like, what an un-amplified instrument sounds like, and to me, that is what a pair of cans should do: produce the sound closest to its original.

 
Cheers,
ngsk