Planning to get the mojo2 to use with my iPhone 15 pro. Anyone using it like that? Any issues? What cables do you recommend for hooking them up?
You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Chord Mojo 2 Thread ___ [product released January 31, 2022 -- starting on page 95 of thread]
- Thread starter TheEldestBoy
- Start date
I use it with my Iphone 11 pro (stock cable + Camera connection kit) every day since I have it and works perfectly.Planning to get the mojo2 to use with my iPhone 15 pro. Anyone using it like that? Any issues? What cables do you recommend for hooking them up?
iPhone 15 uses USB-C so was curious to hear from people who have tested that specific combo, as I understand it one no longer need the cck.
I've used a ddHifi TC07S with my iPhone 15 and Mojo2 with no issues.iPhone 15 uses USB-C so was curious to hear from people who have tested that specific combo, as I understand it one no longer need the cck.
iPhone 15 uses USB-C so was curious to hear from people who have tested that specific combo, as I understand it one no longer need the cck.
I use an original Mojo with my iPhone 15 Pro using a ddhifi C to Micro cable with no problem at all.
The ddhifi C to C cable would work great with Mojo 2, it works great with 15 Pro and several DACs I have.
No there is no need for CCK or any other version of the same thing. In fact, in an effort to help someone on HF, I tried my iPhone 15 pro with several DACs using a variety of cables and every cable worked flawlessly with every device including even the basic C to C cable supplied with the phone and another provided with an iPad Mini 6.
The ddhifi cables have a nice solid clicky connection that stays put better than any other cables I have.
by the way, have any of you ever accidentally fired your balanced armature IEM at maximum volume? mine was a shocking experience that traumatized me forever. The Andromeda went into very strong distortion for a few seconds and it was excruciating, I sincerely hope that nothing was damaged, listening to them it seems that there is no damage, I also contacted Campfire Audio support to ask if they can suggest some tests to do to check the correct integrity of the balanced armatures.
I've read that balanced armor is more resistant of DD when subjected to very high voltage, but I'm not so sure.
I've accidentally put max volume for BAs and hybrids for some other sources (not the Mojo 2), and quickly powered it off. So far, no issues.
FWIW, I use frequency sweeps (you can go to youtube) to check that there is no imbalance or distortion of the FR. Usually if a driver is blown, it will sound like a rattling can/buzzing sound, or imbalance, it is quite obvious. If you have a graphing rig that is even better as kind of a gold standard.
Anyways, I spoke to some reps at Can Jam previously, so they say generally it will take a prolonged period of loud sound to damage drivers thermally, not just a second or two usually. This is usually caused by heat accumulation from a prolonged loud signal, which melts some parts like the voice coil etc.
@Rob Watts I'm beginning to think you have a point; the whole industry seems crazy about balanced but I can clearly remember how much more musical the SE sounded on my old AK DAPs and it was practically the only way to listen to the Andromeda. I wanna ask you smth tho; when I had Mojo1 I really liked how much crisper it sounded through the optical hooked to my AK380 or the COAX hooked to the Hiby R6 Pro as opposed to USB. So I wanna ask why that is; is it a different clock and also what to expect in these cases from the M2
Guy Fawkes
100+ Head-Fier
I created sweeps from 20Hz to 20Khz with my software and checked the drivers, there seems to be no distortion whatsoever although obviously if I turn up the volume a lot as well as being annoying to the ears, the drivers go into slight distortion, but this I think is normal.I've accidentally put max volume for BAs and hybrids for some other sources (not the Mojo 2), and quickly powered it off. So far, no issues.
FWIW, I use frequency sweeps (you can go to youtube) to check that there is no imbalance or distortion of the FR. Usually if a driver is blown, it will sound like a rattling can/buzzing sound, or imbalance, it is quite obvious. If you have a graphing rig that is even better as kind of a gold standard.
Anyways, I spoke to some reps at Can Jam previously, so they say generally it will take a prolonged period of loud sound to damage drivers thermally, not just a second or two usually. This is usually caused by heat accumulation from a prolonged loud signal, which melts some parts like the voice coil etc.
Unless after they have been subjected to high voltage, they may now have a lower tolerance to distortion than before but I can't ascertain this as I didn't do any testing before it happened.
I had contacted Campfire Audio tech support to enquire about whether a balanced armature driver might suffer a lower volume tolerance after a high voltage hit, or if it continues to play it means nothing happened at all... but I get no response from them
Rob Watts
Member of the Trade: Chord Electronics
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2014
- Posts
- 3,144
- Likes
- 12,425
Hmm - that's not been my experience with optical over USB. Either it will make no difference (for battery powered sources that have low RF noise) or the optical will sound warmer with better depth. But I have not tried your sources.@Rob Watts I'm beginning to think you have a point; the whole industry seems crazy about balanced but I can clearly remember how much more musical the SE sounded on my old AK DAPs and it was practically the only way to listen to the Andromeda. I wanna ask you smth tho; when I had Mojo1 I really liked how much crisper it sounded through the optical hooked to my AK380 or the COAX hooked to the Hiby R6 Pro as opposed to USB. So I wanna ask why that is; is it a different clock and also what to expect in these cases from the M2
Clocking or jitter on the source does not matter at all with my DACs, but RF noise currents flowing through the DAC ground plane can have an influence on the sound quality. Hence why Toslink optical should be considered as the reference source, as RF ground currents can not flow from the source into the DAC.
There is a very obvious difference between USB and COAX; well my source for that was the HiBy R6 Pro. But I mean USB was much warmer but not as crisp or even detailed. It was really a decent surprise; I donno, I might still at some point get one of your Mojo2's, have it modded by a really decent guy in the UK with caps/opamps and then maybe have him install 4.4's in the place of the 3.5's, then hook it up through COAX. You might not be doing balanced and I don't really mind it but the cables we most guys have listening to our other stuff are by now all 4.4's and adapters are kinda meh aren't they.Hmm - that's not been my experience with optical over USB. Either it will make no difference (for battery powered sources that have low RF noise) or the optical will sound warmer with better depth. But I have not tried your sources.
Clocking or jitter on the source does not matter at all with my DACs, but RF noise currents flowing through the DAC ground plane can have an influence on the sound quality. Hence why Toslink optical should be considered as the reference source, as RF ground currents can not flow from the source into the DAC.
Otherwise a Thai modder actually told me a few years ago that M1 has two clocks and one of them was for the COAX by which he explained the difference.
The way I listened to the optical in was with the AK380. Maybe it's the COAX that's actually considerably crisper.
I've used my Mojo2 directly with my Iphone 15 pro max and USB C iPad Pro with the standard Apple USB C cable that came with the phone. Absolutely no issues other than it's starting to make my Poly a little defunct now!Planning to get the mojo2 to use with my iPhone 15 pro. Anyone using it like that? Any issues? What cables do you recommend for hooking them up?
Does anyone use the Mojo 2 with the HD800s? Do they pair well? I'm thinking of getting ones to alternate with my LCD-XC.
shabta
500+ Head-Fier
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2010
- Posts
- 995
- Likes
- 1,568
I use it. It's ok. In the summer it doesn't heat my room like my tube amp. There are better amps for the HD800S but as a second amp or something to move around with, it is satisfactory.Does anyone use the Mojo 2 with the HD800s? Do they pair well? I'm thinking of getting ones to alternate with my LCD-XC.
miketlse
Headphoneus Supremus
- Joined
- May 8, 2016
- Posts
- 5,992
- Likes
- 3,990
Your mention about optical sounding much crisper seems a bit unexpected to me.@Rob Watts I'm beginning to think you have a point; the whole industry seems crazy about balanced but I can clearly remember how much more musical the SE sounded on my old AK DAPs and it was practically the only way to listen to the Andromeda. I wanna ask you smth tho; when I had Mojo1 I really liked how much crisper it sounded through the optical hooked to my AK380 or the COAX hooked to the Hiby R6 Pro as opposed to USB. So I wanna ask why that is; is it a different clock and also what to expect in these cases from the M2
I have posted several times before about my experience during the earlier years with the Mojo.
During that period I compared optical and usb, and preferred usb because it felt more alive, just as if I was at the actual musical event itself.
Optical input seemed to result in a slightly duller sound output.
At that time some of the music that I was exploring was more medieval, including choirs accompanied by lute players.
By chance a choir with lute was scheduled to perform at a cultural event at a local church, so i went along to listen and compare what I heard with the mojo with real live music.
To my surprise the lute sounded slightly dull, and similar to what i had heard using the optical input to the mojo.
I realised my mistake - I had been wanting to use mojo to listen to music that was as close to a real performance as possible, and assuming that such music sounded bright and a bit in your face.
I had been chasing a false god using usb, when really optical was the best way to achieve what i was seeking.
Since then I have used optical almost exclusively with my Mojo, Hugo 2, and now TT2, with no complaints.
Many owners will prefer that slight brightness that gives that sense of 'live performance' with usb
Many owners will prefer that lack of brightness with optical
The confusing thing to me is that you seem to achieve the brightness with optical input.
Hypops
500+ Head-Fier
Sounds like my experience with audio gear generally. Chasing a sound, trying different gear, comparing different connection types, etc, etc. Then listening to live music and realizing I've been "chasing a false god," as you say. Rinse and repeat.Your mention about optical sounding much crisper seems a bit unexpected to me.
I have posted several times before about my experience during the earlier years with the Mojo.
During that period I compared optical and usb, and preferred usb because it felt more alive, just as if I was at the actual musical event itself.
Optical input seemed to result in a slightly duller sound output.
At that time some of the music that I was exploring was more medieval, including choirs accompanied by lute players.
By chance a choir with lute was scheduled to perform at a cultural event at a local church, so i went along to listen and compare what I heard with the mojo with real live music.
To my surprise the lute sounded slightly dull, and similar to what i had heard using the optical input to the mojo.
I realised my mistake - I had been wanting to use mojo to listen to music that was as close to a real performance as possible, and assuming that such music sounded bright and a bit in your face.
I had been chasing a false god using usb, when really optical was the best way to achieve what i was seeking.
Since then I have used optical almost exclusively with my Mojo, Hugo 2, and now TT2, with no complaints.
Many owners will prefer that slight brightness that gives that sense of 'live performance' with usb
Many owners will prefer that lack of brightness with optical
The confusing thing to me is that you seem to achieve the brightness with optical input.