[Terco]

First apologies if this was asked before I checked the last 10 pages and I couldn't find anything about my problem, I hear the most loud distortion for about 2 seconds then goes away and come back I had to drop my iems out of my ears, it was so painful, anyone had experience something like this with the Mojo? I'm scare to use it again, this happened twice.

 

[dsrk]

First apologies if this was asked before I checked the last 10 pages and I couldn't find anything about my problem, I hear the most loud distortion for about 2 seconds then goes away and come back I had to drop my iems out of my ears, it was so painful, anyone had experience something like this with the Mojo? I'm scare to use it again, this happened twice.

No, not so far in this thread as far as I know. There are reports from a lot of users and me about the white noise but not anything about this.

Have you tried resetting the device once, different connections optical, coaxial and different cables? If you already did, it could be defective. I would advise you to get a replacement.

 

[surfgeorge]

First apologies if this was asked before I checked the last 10 pages and I couldn't find anything about my problem, I hear the most loud distortion for about 2 seconds then goes away and come back I had to drop my iems out of my ears, it was so painful, anyone had experience something like this with the Mojo? I'm scare to use it again, this happened twice.

Sorry to hear that! This is scary and dangerous when listening with efficient IEMs!

This phenomenon has been discussed in the thread under the term "white noise"
I have experienced it with the original Mojo, not sure now if I had it happen on the M2 as well, but others have reported it. It happens only when using USB input, and in my experience I could always attribute it to an issue with the cable. For me this happened most commonly with lightning to micro-USB cables (I use Meenova cables) but also with regular USB cables connected to the PC.
I had at least one brand new cable that had this issue and other cables developed it over time.
Exchanging the cable has resolved it for me in every case.

If you want to be even safer maybe you can use the coax and optical inputs which are immune to this issue.
The Poly is another safe option.

 

[Kentajalli]

First apologies if this was asked before I checked the last 10 pages and I couldn't find anything about my problem, I hear the most loud distortion for about 2 seconds then goes away and come back I had to drop my iems out of my ears, it was so painful, anyone had experience something like this with the Mojo? I'm scare to use it again, this happened twic

Distortion? what kind of distortion?
Do you mean a loud white noise?

 

[Terco]

Sorry to hear that! This is scary and dangerous when listening with efficient IEMs!

This phenomenon has been discussed in the thread under the term "white noise"
I have experienced it with the original Mojo...

Yeah that's the reason why I sold my Mojo 1 couple years ago I thought this problem was solved with Mojo 2 , any suggestion for cables? Im using this DD Hifi cable:

https://audio46.com/products/dd-ddh...o-type-c-usb-otg-cable?variant=40836006183102

Distortion? what kind of distortion?
Do you mean a loud white noise?

Yeah white noise.

 

[Ivan Reis]

Sorry to hear that! This is scary and dangerous when listening with efficient IEMs!

This phenomenon has been discussed in the thread under the term "white noise"
I have experienced it with the original Mojo, not sure now if I had it happen on the M2 as well, but others have reported it. It happens only when using USB input, and in my experience I could always attribute it to an issue with the cable. For me this happened most commonly with lightning to micro-USB cables (I use Meenova cables) but also with regular USB cables connected to the PC.
I had at least one brand new cable that had this issue and other cables developed it over time.
Exchanging the cable has resolved it for me in every case.

If you want to be even safer maybe you can use the coax and optical inputs which are immune to this issue.
The Poly is another safe option.

I've had this problem more than once using Poly + Mojo2 with Apple Music or Tidal (the same problem happened also using USB C cable).

Every time I was using my iPod Touch as a source.

The problem completely disappeared (both on Poly and on USB C) when I abandoned Apple Music and Tidal and started using Qobuz exclusively (I've been using it daily for more than 3 months with no problems, both on Poly and USB C)

 

[Kentajalli]

Yeah white noise.

Aha!
An old and well known issue, one that Chord has repeatedly failed to address.
It happens, when the digital signal received by the USB input chip gets glitches on it. This can send Chord DACs crazy! when they go crazy, they go into full output white noise mode. Madness! They should go silent.
Remedy is also readily available - just make sure they receive no glitches
By that I mean, make sure your player is on bit-perfect mode, it is not crashing or stuttering, and most importantly, the cable you use is quality! Basic cable is fine, but not crap ones, and a ferrite core, wouldn't go amiss.
My Huawei phone, running Neutron media player, and a DIY cable, is yet to cause any glitches.
Also, my PC running jRiver media player, with a standard cable (and a ferrite clip-on) has been trouble free.
Stay away from expensive Audiophile USB cables, keep to well known brands no more than £20 max, after this you get quality snake oil!
Indeed, I can not remember last time mine went puffffffff.....

 

[lowrider007]

I actually got a response from Chord today regarding my question, they recommend 3v, maybe because I'm connecting it to two devices?

"Dear Sir, thanks for your email,
Yes you can, this will work fine. Attached is the information for setting a 3v level equivalent to the original Mojo line out.
All the best"

"To attain a 3v output, the customer needs to start with their Mojo2 as pictured below.








This is the first setting of the ‘upper’ volume range. This is identified by a illuminated mode light on the left, but the volume + and - lights are extinguished.

Now you will need to press the volume + button EXACTLY 41 times. The result is showing in the second picture, two BLUE volume buttons."



So based off that information this sounds like a perfect DAC for those that want to use two outputs, for example in my case one output going to headphone amp and one output going to integrated stereo amp.

I'm quoting my own post because I've had a bit of a back and forth with Chord support, I was given the above instructions to set the Mojo 2 to 3v, as you can see the instructions specifically state in capital letters that the two volume buttons should be "BLUE", yet if you look at the slide originally posted by Rob Watts here,

It says VIOLET is 3v, BLUE is 1.19-1.5v, I've asked 4 times now this very simple question, which is correct, the slide posted by Rob (Violet 3v), or BLUE which is stated in the instructions from Chord support?, but they refuse to answer the question, how can a company design a clever device like this but can't answer a simple question?

Chord, @Rob Watts, Ed from support, which is correct, BLUE or VIOLET to attain 3v?

 

[amarkabove]

I'm quoting my own post because I've had a bit of a back and forth with Chord support, I was given the above instructions to set the Mojo 2 to 3v, as you can see the instructions specifically state in capital letters that the two volume buttons should be "BLUE", yet if you look at the slide originally posted by Rob Watts here,



It says VIOLET is 3v, BLUE is 1.19-1.5v, I've asked 4 times now this very simple question, which is correct, the slide posted by Rob (Violet 3v), or BLUE which is stated in the instructions from Chord support?, but they refuse to answer the question, how can a company design a clever device like this but can't answer a simple question?

Chord, @Rob Watts, Ed from support, which is correct, BLUE or VIOLET to attain 3v?

So here's the thing... they're the same. 41 clicks starting from the first point of the high range, which is what they're telling you to do, will get you to what is listed as Violet on @Rob Watts's chart, as each color has three clicks before the next one. It very much seems like the unit Chord is using to explain to you is on the low brightness setting and also maybe not being photographed with proper white balance. Look at the indicator light to the left. On my unit, that ball is white and in the photos they sent you its a weird muted purple.

 

[lowrider007]

So here's the thing... they're the same. 41 clicks starting from the first point of the high range, which is what they're telling you to do, will get you to what is listed as Violet on @Rob Watts's chart, as each color has three clicks before the next one. It very much seems like the unit Chord is using to explain to you is on the low brightness setting and also maybe not being photographed with proper white balance. Look at the indicator light to the left. On my unit, that ball is white and in the photos they sent you its a weird muted purple.

You're correct, it is the same thing, I understand that, it's just that they specifically make a point of stating "BLUE", capitalised, and this is within an instruction Doc that they send out to people that require this information, this is very misleading when based off Rob's slide which says Violet is 3V and it's clearly looks Violet when setting it to 3v, but Chord support, more specifically Ed, doesn't seem to want to concede that.

 

[amarkabove]

You're correct, it is the same thing, I understand that, it's just that they specifically make a point of stating "BLUE", capitalised, and this is within an instruction Doc that they send out to people that require this information, this is very misleading when based off Rob's slide which says Violet is 3V and it's clearly looks Violet when setting it to 3v, but Chord support, more specifically Ed, doesn't seem to want to concede that.

That's because Rob's slide isn't an official Chord document. The most variety of color they show in the manual is 10, and there are 15 colors on Rob's. Ed is going off of the only thing he can go off of, official Chord documentation. Rob's slide is just more precise.

 

[lowrider007]

That's because Rob's slide isn't an official Chord document. The most variety of color they show in the manual is 10, and there are 15 colors on Rob's. Ed is going off of the only thing he can go off of, official Chord documentation. Rob's slide is just more precise.

I'm sorry but that is very lame reasoning, the actual device itself does show the range of colours depicted on @Rob Watts slide, and quite accurately, the fact that they aren't in the manual is beside the point, there is no information regarding colour/voltage correlation in the manual anyway, the fact is, the colour stated in the "How to attain 3v output" Doc is not the colour on the device @ 41 clicks, it is Violet, stating it is Blue is misleading, just correct the Doc, I am not the only person to find this is an issue.

 

[amarkabove]

I'm sorry but that is very lame reasoning, the actual device itself does show the range of colours depicted on @Rob Watts slide, and quite accurately, the fact that they aren't in the manual is beside the point, there is no information regarding colour/voltage correlation in the manual anyway, the fact is, the colour stated in the "How to attain 3v output" Doc is not the colour on the device @ 41 clicks, it is Violet, stating it is Blue is misleading, just correct the Doc, I am not the only person to find this is an issue.

At the end of the day, they gave you the correct information of 41 clicks. Arguing about what word they use to describe the color is a moot point, especially when not everyone sees the color the same way.

 

[bridger2086]

Aha!
An old and well known issue, one that Chord has repeatedly failed to address.
It happens, when the digital signal received by the USB input chip gets glitches on it. This can send Chord DACs crazy! when they go crazy, they go into full output white noise mode. Madness! They should go silent.
Remedy is also readily available - just make sure they receive no glitches
By that I mean, make sure your player is on bit-perfect mode, it is not crashing or stuttering, and most importantly, the cable you use is quality! Basic cable is fine, but not crap ones, and a ferrite core, wouldn't go amiss.
My Huawei phone, running Neutron media player, and a DIY cable, is yet to cause any glitches.
Also, my PC running jRiver media player, with a standard cable (and a ferrite clip-on) has been trouble free.
Stay away from expensive Audiophile USB cables, keep to well known brands no more than £20 max, after this you get quality snake oil!
Indeed, I can not remember last time mine went puffffffff.....

Oh, one more here on the loud white noise wagon. Has happened 3 or so times in the last month. Luckily I was using it as a dac to drive the speakers. First i had it coupled to the amp and i thought the amp got fried. Lately I'm driving passive speakers directly with the mojo2, and it happened 2 more times. Than I deducted it must be either mojo2 (thought unlikely), so I was blaming my streamer. Its a RPI4 running directly from its USB with Ropieee XL, streaming Qobuz through Bubble UPNP.

My RPI has a hat (PI2AES), which I will be using as soon as I decide on which type of powersupply i want to run. I dont want to bring this up with Chord if using a quality source is a non issue. Will be trying USB/Coax/Optical with pi2aes, but would really like to not have the fear of my speakers blasting out at full volume. You'd be surprised how loud a mojo can drive an efficient horn speaker.

 

[bridger2086]

One more thing about the output voltage when coupled to an amp. Is 3V really always the best way to go? I don't think I'm imagining it, but i think the sound is clearer and background darker when I set it to ca. 2V and up the gain on the amp. Of course it sounds better still with mojo driving the speakers directly. Whats your experiences?