[GreenBow]

@Rob Watts
 
I wondered if I was wrong.
 
Anyway I have found and put a choke on the audio bit signal cable at the Mojo end today.
 
The power adapter end of my Mojo power USB cable, has a factory fitted choke.
 
I have some more ferrite chokes kicking about buried somewhere though.
 
Thank you for your opinion.

 

[Peter Hyatt]

  Lightning to USB cable -- For connecting the iPhone to the Mojo, I've been using the Zees Music Lightning to Micro USB cable instead of using the Apple CCK to micro usb cable. The Zees is a Chinese cable and is a BIG improvement in sound quality.   (Thanks to SH member Soundizer and one other member who mentioned the cable in this thread, incl. p.1462 post 21,922.). Here's the Ebay link:
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/252476440532
 
Cost is $49.99 including shipping for a wire about 6" long. Took about 5 days to get to NYC from HK. The cable itself has a Lightning connector which probably has the Apple chip in it though the outer casing appears to be a copy since it is about 1/32" longer than an originall Apple Lightning connector and the edges are seamed while the original Apple connector has smooth edges and is probably one piece. The wire itself is described as braided 8x (8 cores) OCC material and has a silver color. If it were actual silver you'd think they would mention it.
 
The cable has worked flawlessly with my iPhone 6S using IOS 10. Never a hiccup. Aside from being neater, to me the main improvement is the sound quality, which is clearer and an improvement in all respects over the widely used Apple CCK connected to the usual cruddy $2 USB to micro usb cable. Since most individuals are using the CCK method to connect their iPhones to the Mojo, to me it means that most individuals using iPhones have never heard the Mojo at its full potential - or at least at a higher level of potential.
 
I haven't tried the Lavricable or Penon cable so I don't know how the Zees cable compares with those, except it certainly is less expensive. I had been waiting for an improved cable to replace the CCK and cheapo USB to micro USB cables intended for data transmission and feel that the Zees is a decent one, though I'd welcome a well-known cable manufacturer producing one.

Thanks for posting this. 
 
With iOS 10, my Lavricable died, and then the CCK apple cable went wonky on me; working intermittently only, with the message "this device not supported..."
 
The Fiio non-fiio cable worked still...  
 
I am looking forward to the delivery of the Accessory kit.  I have been through a number of cheap cables, including some sent to me for review, and whether used in Mojo or in the car, none has lasted.  With the Accessory kit, I will have back up and variety, including if I file for divorce from Apple, as I am yet another one who loves the product but hates the company.  By including various cables, Chord has let me be prepared.  
 
I am going to wait for the Accessory kit so I can see what fits best in the module, but last night we followed careful instructions, backed up the iPhone, and retreated to iOS 9.  It still wiped out everything, but I have 20+ hours in flight this week; I cannot be without my Mojo!  
 
UPDATE:   The silver cable recommended from eBay is currently sold out. 

 

[tretneo]

Another +1 vote for the Zees cable. Received mine last week and so far (iPhone 7 w/ iOS 10 > Mojo) it works great and I've had none of the wonky inconsistency I saw with the Fiio L19 cable. It's also really well built and way more flexible than most of the other interconnect cables I've used. Great stuff.

 

[2bxfile]

Query:  When Mr. Watts says, "But put a ferrite on a USB cable probably means you don't need to bother adding a jitter bug even with a noisy PC."  Can someone explain to me what he means by a ferrite on a USB and maybe give me a specific product as an example.
 
I'm deciding to either go with the Bifrost Multibit or the wonderful Mojo for my home 2 channel system and looking to this great forum for instruction on how to get around the challenges involved in incorporating the Mojo into my home system for example the non-galvanic isolation.
 
Thank you,
 
p.s. on another forum a poster commented that when implementing a jitterbug into his computer system with Mojo, he found that it negatively affected his sound maybe dampened it.

 

[discord76]

  Query:  When Mr. Watts says, "But put a ferrite on a USB cable probably means you don't need to bother adding a jitter bug even with a noisy PC."  Can someone explain to me what he means by a ferrite on a USB and maybe give me a specific product as an example.
 
I'm deciding to either go with the Bifrost Multibit or the wonderful Mojo for my home 2 channel system and looking to this great forum for instruction on how to get around the challenges involved in incorporating the Mojo into my home system for example the non-galvanic isolation.
 
Thank you,
 
p.s. on another forum a poster commented that when implementing a jitterbug into his computer system with Mojo, he found that it negatively affected his sound maybe dampened it.

Something like this:
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/122108640988?lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=9046893&poi=&campaignid=661151662&device=c&adgroupid=35959456040&rlsatarget=pla-256160652700&adtype=pla&crdt=0

 

[Ike1985]

Just a standard cheap micro-B with some ferrites I dug out of the basement. I find the best results require 2, a big one and a small one. I experience a reduction in the volume of RF/EMI noise to wear it's comparable to the hiss some ciem's produce.

 

[2bxfile]

 
Something like this:
 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/122108640988?lpid=122&chn=ps&googleloc=9046893&poi=&campaignid=661151662&device=c&adgroupid=35959456040&rlsatarget=pla-256160652700&adtype=pla&crdt=0

Thanks discord: 
 
Would I only place one of these on a USB cable? 
Do you have to be careful to order the right one?
Even with one of these, would it behoove one still to acquire a good cable i.e., silver?  Or, could someone now get away with a medium quality cable?
 
Finally, in your opinion, would you go the way of the ferrite or the jitterbug to compensate for the non-galvanic issue?
 
Thanks so much.

 

[2bxfile]

Just a standard cheap micro-B with some ferrites I dug out of the basement. I find the best results require 2, a big one and a small one. I experience a reduction in the volume of RF/EMI noise to wear it's comparable to the hiss some ciem's produce.

 
 
Thanks Ike:  I saw your post after I submitted mine.  Could you look at my recent one and tell me if you can add anything?

 

[Ike1985]

 
Thanks discord: 
 
Would I only place one of these on a USB cable? 
Do you have to be careful to order the right one?
Even with one of these, would it behoove one still to acquire a good cable i.e., silver?  Or, could someone now get away with a medium quality cable?
 
Finally, in your opinion, would you go the way of the ferrite or the jitterbug to compensate for the non-galvanic issue?
 
Thanks so much.

 
No problem man,
 
RF/EMI is a bugger. For example, if you put a ferrite a few inches from the end of the cable, the RF/EMI will simply enter at that point, yea you're choke will have an effect but it would be more effective at the very end.  I find that a big one at the end allows more RF/EMI than a smaller one(the smaller one is able to get closer to the very end of the cable where the head of the micro-b begins.  I have often wished there was a spray-on ferrite so I could get the end, only leaving the bare metal micro-b plug unsprayed, even that last little plastic that houses the micro-b plug matters. 
 
If you ask me, I don't think you are going to notice an effect with an expensive micro-b cable, even Rob Watts has warned against them-saying they can artificially brighten the sound and give the illusion of improved detail while not actually doing so.  I am looking to purchase a new micro-b cable, but I am looking for a MALE to MALE(I'm assuming you're on android, on IOS it would be micro-b to lightning) so that I don't have to use a Samsung adapter.  The more links in the chain, the less transparent the sound.  I had one for awhile, but it was a cheap $7 one from amazon and broke.  So what should you look for in an aftermarket male to male micro-B cable? Durability.  Look for one that is well built, I find these things break all the time.  I've been through several this year and I don't abuse them.
 
I would go ferrite, jitterbug is just another link in the chain as discussed before and will remove transparency.  Ideally you want a durable male to male micro-b cable with a ferrite choke or 2 as I have, getting the chokes as close as possible to the entry point of the Mojo.
 
If you have a box in the basement with tons of old electronics and cables, you should be able to scrounge up all the ferrites you need.

 

[2bxfile]

Thanks so much Ike:
 
The system that I would be setting up for the Mojo, is a home 2 channel system:  laptop (still deciding on interface) - USB - Mojo - 3.5 to RCA - integrated - passives.
 
If this information of mine above alters in any way your previous response, I'd be grateful if you shared anything you see fit or could add.
 
 
Cheers

 

[jmills8]

Would these work?

 

[2bxfile]

Would these work?

 
 
I don't know Jmills8.  These things are all new to this young upstart.  How many would you suggest and what sizes on my USB from laptop to MOJO?   It sounded like Ike had some good ideas probably through much experience.

 

[bixby]

  Query:  When Mr. Watts says, "But put a ferrite on a USB cable probably means you don't need to bother adding a jitter bug even with a noisy PC."  Can someone explain to me what he means by a ferrite on a USB and maybe give me a specific product as an example.
 
I'm deciding to either go with the Bifrost Multibit or the wonderful Mojo for my home 2 channel system and looking to this great forum for instruction on how to get around the challenges involved in incorporating the Mojo into my home system for example the non-galvanic isolation.
 
Thank you,
 
p.s. on another forum a poster commented that when implementing a jitterbug into his computer system with Mojo, he found that it negatively affected his sound maybe dampened it.

My experience with the jitterbug was negative as well.  Sucked the life out of the music and rolled highs.  Using a low cost usb cable with a built in ferrite and an additional one on the other end has proven far more effective without mucking up the sound like the jitterbug did.  Results were the same on my speaker based system as well.
 
One thing to note, USB can be quite clean and as good as other inputs provided you take steps to eliminate any other devices from the internal usb hubs and do what you can to mitigate computer noise overall, ie. do not run any programs other than player, ferrites on ethernet, turn off wireless, bluetooth, etc.

 

[2bxfile]

 
My experience with the jitterbug was negative as well.  Sucked the life out of the music and rolled highs.  Using a low cost usb cable with a built in ferrite and an additional one on the other end has proven far more effective without mucking up the sound like the jitterbug did.  Results were the same on my speaker based system as well.
 
One thing to note, USB can be quite clean and as good as other inputs provided you take steps to eliminate any other devices from the internal usb hubs and do what you can to mitigate computer noise overall, ie. do not run any programs other than player, ferrites on ethernet, turn off wireless, bluetooth, etc.

Thanks much Bixby:
 
Hope you don't mind throwing me another bone.  I'm getting excited that I seem to be getting a handle on all of this seemingly elementary knowledge; seeing light at the other end of the Mojo tunnel for home based listening.
 
You suggest acquiring an inexpensive USB cable with a ferrite already attached with an additional one at the other end.
 
1.Would you suggest getting them as close to the end of the cable as possible as Ike suggests for better RF reduction? 
 
2. If this is the case and the ones with fixed ferrites are not really butt up against the ends of the cable, would it be better to purchase a ferriteless cable and then separates to apply to the cable ends?
 
3. What do you think of Ike's idea of large ferrite + small?  Would there be some science behind this?
 
4. To this end, do you know of cable companies whose USB micro ends have proven to fit nice and snug into the Mojo for I understand that some of the companies tolerances are not kind to the Mojo USB.
 
Finally on another note, can you suggest a couple of 3.5 to RCA cable brands and models to go into my integrated from the Mojo?  What would be the minimum quality before I would start getting into diminished returns? Do not want to cheap out, but at the same time do not want to pay for the indiscernible.
 
Thanks so much Bixby.  Really appreciate you time.

 

[tomwoo]

 
My experience with the jitterbug was negative as well.  Sucked the life out of the music and rolled highs.  Using a low cost usb cable with a built in ferrite and an additional one on the other end has proven far more effective without mucking up the sound like the jitterbug did.  Results were the same on my speaker based system as well.
 
One thing to note, USB can be quite clean and as good as other inputs provided you take steps to eliminate any other devices from the internal usb hubs and do what you can to mitigate computer noise overall, ie. do not run any programs other than player, ferrites on ethernet, turn off wireless, bluetooth, etc.

I have been reading recent posts about eliminating noises from USB ports. If my understanding is right, using a DAP as a transport (w/optical or coaxial interconnect) for Mojo should have superior SQ to computers? As a matter of fact I noticed that the SQ of my X7 as a standalone player is much better than using it as a USB DAC.