Thank-you @TechnoJazz ... I may give that a try.Hi!
I had this issue once and I used a can of compressed air and the tip to spray on the side of the buttons without open the unit.
It worked for me.
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Chord Electronics Qutest DAC - Official Thread
- Thread starter ChordElectronics
- Start date
ColdsnapBry
500+ Head-Fier
Is BNC the best input for the Qutest?
I use Toslink/Optical ... although USB may be just as good, if not slightly better, given the source-power isolation design. Coax S/PDIF (BNC) may sound 'brighter', but according to Rob Watts, that's because of induced 'noise'. I get the impression that the 2 BNC connectors are only really there if you want to connect an MSCALER ... although an affordable Mscaler for the Qutest may not materialise for a while, if at all.
Digital Enigma
1000+ Head-Fier
Is BNC the best input for the Qutest?
Depends on the source quality, I’d go for optical as a safe guess if you’re not sure. Jitter isn’t a problem.
LeeJB1970
100+ Head-Fier
@Rob Watts
Hi Rob
Quick question. Is the Qutest UCA2 compliant? I'm having trouble connecting a Schiit Urd CD transport via usb and they've requested clarification on this.
Kind regards
Lee
Hi Rob
Quick question. Is the Qutest UCA2 compliant? I'm having trouble connecting a Schiit Urd CD transport via usb and they've requested clarification on this.
Kind regards
Lee
Rob Watts
Member of the Trade: Chord Electronics
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I guess you mean UAC2 - and Qutest is indeed UAC2 compliant.
LeeJB1970
100+ Head-Fier
O
Ok thanks for your clarification Rob. I’ll let Schiit know.I guess you mean UAC2 - and Qutest is indeed UAC2 compliant.
VintageAudio
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Just got myself a Chord Qutest which is replacing a Denafrips Ares 12th Anniversary Edition. Initial impressions is that the Q's vocals are more forward, better instrument separation and soundstage imaging. After a while though, that was shredding my ears and I was not enjoying the music because everything was too in my face and I was missing the more laid back analog R2R sound of the Ares.
Just for kicks, I also got an LPS power supply, specifically the LHY Audio V1.2 because it had a small footprint, low noise specs and reasonable cost relative to LPS that cost 3 to 4X.
I made the Q even more Q. Not a huge difference. The stock wall wart with the Q already sounded amazing, but still an improvement. Darker background and even more analytical...which made my ears bleed.
Was messing around with the Q settings to ease my pain. I found I preferred the 1V output setting with my Bakoon Amp-13R so it's less shouty. Also using the warm filter, which worked wonders. I now no longer want to jump out a window.
Really elevated my buchardt S400mk2 speakers to another level. Never knew the top could be so resolute.
I have very little hours on it, hoping that with more burn-in this puppy will improve even more.
Really happy that I have a solution that takes up very little desktop space (a premium for me) and is very simple. I don't want to add a zillion boxes to the signal path with DDCs, DSPS, Steamers, preamps...that only have a marginal improvement.
Just for kicks, I also got an LPS power supply, specifically the LHY Audio V1.2 because it had a small footprint, low noise specs and reasonable cost relative to LPS that cost 3 to 4X.
I made the Q even more Q. Not a huge difference. The stock wall wart with the Q already sounded amazing, but still an improvement. Darker background and even more analytical...which made my ears bleed.
Was messing around with the Q settings to ease my pain. I found I preferred the 1V output setting with my Bakoon Amp-13R so it's less shouty. Also using the warm filter, which worked wonders. I now no longer want to jump out a window.
Really elevated my buchardt S400mk2 speakers to another level. Never knew the top could be so resolute.
I have very little hours on it, hoping that with more burn-in this puppy will improve even more.
Really happy that I have a solution that takes up very little desktop space (a premium for me) and is very simple. I don't want to add a zillion boxes to the signal path with DDCs, DSPS, Steamers, preamps...that only have a marginal improvement.
Last edited:
Interesting... I set mine to 2V and also use the warm filter - bought an off-board ps as well, but the difference wasn‘t huge. Fantastic with the LCD-4. Couldn't be happier.Just got myself a Chord Qutest which is replacing a Denafrips Ares 12th Anniversary Edition. Initial impressions is that the Q's vocals are more forward, better instrument separation and soundstage imaging. After a while though, that was shredding my ears and I was not enjoying the music because everything was too in my face and I was missing the more laid back analog R2R sound of the Ares.
Just for kicks, I also got an LPS power supply, specifically the LHY Audio V1.2 because it had a small footprint, low noise specs and reasonable cost relative to LPS that cost 3 to 4X.
I made the Q even more Q. Not a huge difference. The stock wall wart with the Q already sounded amazing, but still an improvement. Darker background and even more analytical...which made my ears bleed.
Was messing around with the Q settings to ease my pain. I found I preferred the 1V output setting with my Bakoon Amp-13R so it's less shouty. Also using the warm filter, which worked wonders. I know long want to jump out a window.
Really elevated my buchardt S400mk2 speakers to another level.
I have very little hours on it, hoping that with more burn-in this puppy will improve even more.
Really happy that I have a solution that takes up very little desktop space (a premium for me) and is very simple. I don't want to add a zillion boxes to the signal path with DDCs, DSPS, Steamers, preamps...that only have a marginal improvement.
I recently posted about the INPUT button of my QUTEST had started sticking.
I reached out to Chord Support and they suggested I follow a video to resolve the problem, which entailed unscrewing the six screws holding the two parts of the case together and cleaning the buttons and the sleeve in the casing in which they sit. Problem solved and it took less than 20 minutes.
They confirmed that the warranty in my case would not be affected, as I had alerted them up front.
I reached out to Chord Support and they suggested I follow a video to resolve the problem, which entailed unscrewing the six screws holding the two parts of the case together and cleaning the buttons and the sleeve in the casing in which they sit. Problem solved and it took less than 20 minutes.
They confirmed that the warranty in my case would not be affected, as I had alerted them up front.
Cool. Is the video published somewhere?I recently posted about the INPUT button of my QUTEST had started sticking.
I reached out to Chord Support and they suggested I follow a video to resolve the problem, which entailed unscrewing the six screws holding the two parts of the case together and cleaning the buttons and the sleeve in the casing in which they sit. Problem solved and it took less than 20 minutes.
They confirmed that the warranty in my case would not be affected, as I had alerted them up front.
Cool. Is the video published somewhere?
The video is in the public domain, so I don't think I would be in breach of any privacy issues ....I recently posted about the INPUT button of my QUTEST had started sticking.
I reached out to Chord Support and they suggested I follow a video to resolve the problem, which entailed unscrewing the six screws holding the two parts of the case together and cleaning the buttons and the sleeve in the casing in which they sit. Problem solved and it took less than 20 minutes.
They confirmed that the warranty in my case would not be affected, as I had alerted them up front.
However, I would urge anyone to contact CHORD first before undertaking any work on the unit, to protect your warranty.
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Awesome, thanks.The video is in the public domain, so I don't think I would be in breach of any privacy issues ....
However, I would urge anyone to contact CHORD first before undertaking any work on the unit, to protect your warranty.
I never used the warm filter until I started comparing the Qutest to R2R DACs. My preference never wavered, but it did make me aware of that shoutiness you mention that I hadn’t ever noticed before. The warm filter cleaned it right up though.Also using the warm filter, which worked wonders. I now no longer want to jump out a window.
VintageAudio
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Yes, I think system synergy and preference matters. I initially started with the 3V output because it was so punch but with time it wore on me. For cans, I use Hifiman Susvara which are super resolving and sound better with a touch of warmth added.Interesting... I set mine to 2V and also use the warm filter - bought an off-board ps as well, but the difference wasn‘t huge. Fantastic with the LCD-4. Couldn't be happier.
Love the setup though - can't wait to hear what burn-in brings.
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