[474194]

Would a basic rpi sound any better than a cca?

Darko's Five Products of the Decade got me thinking of not brushing the rPi USB Port aside. I believe in the past the issue was the USB and Ethernet shared the same bus which scared me away. But with the rPI A+ there is no Ethernet.

So essentially if you want a basic clean 3.5mm output > CCA, you can add a Audioquest Dragonfly to the USB port:

You are basically building a decent SQ Wireless UI DAP. Just use a small Anker USB battery pack to power the A+ and run Squeezebox software on the backend. iPeng on the front-end.

Setting the output to USB Audio versus an Pi HAT should work.

I like the separation of a Wireless UI and the backend. It's pretty seamless. When micro/mini LED's start being implemented in the iPhones and Apple Watch, you don't have to worry about your screen tech being phased out.

This is basically utilising Darko's top 3 products of the decade.

Shown is a rPi B+ for desktop usage. You can lower your footprint better with a A+ and slim case for portable.

Plugged directly into the RPi, it puts us in the same performance bracket as the ALLO/RPi/Schiit trio and for similar dollars down.[/QUOTE}

https://darko.audio/2019/12/darko-audios-product-s-of-the-decade-2010-2019/

To top off there is a Apple Watch app:

 

[Progisus]

Looking at the measurements for the DigiOne, I'm pretty much set on that and will probably buy it pre-built, to be honest. Is it a bad idea to use WiFi on the Pi as opposed to Ethernet? It's one less cable to have cluttering my desk.

I am using Roon over wifi to pi 3b with DigiOne hat coax to Mscaler. It is very stable and low noise.

 

[Scrum92]

Is there any difference between Pis with regards to how well a DigiOne performs?

There are a couple pre-built available on eBay hence my asking.

 

[474194]

I wasn't proposing SACD and my listening and conclusions are just based on 48k, 96k or 192k versions compared to 44k redbook.

Forgive me. I was in sleep mode after 2AM then logged out and did a last minute refresh and noticed there were a few posts left behind.

Interesting conclusion. Do you have a link to the album? I want to confirm they are not different versions/mastering. I don't stream so interested in info on how to determine hires vs redbook master source via streaming service.

 

[474194]

Have you had a chance to spend time with any of the Allo offerings? After trying out a couple of options, they've been my favorite.

I've done testing with and without ferrite beads on my setup with no difference. Seems if your source is quiet enough and your cable is well shielded enough it should be a moot point.

Unfortunately no. I do though love all RPi solutions and it's amazing we have so many options. I'm glad you found what works for you. I did seriously consider the Allo route at one time, but once you add a nice coax cable and a LPS, you are getting into the 2Go territory cost-wise. Also, besides being coax, the Allo is triple-stacked. Both deal-breakers for my use case. I'm only in this hobby for mobility, so everything has to fit in a belt. This is an older prototype photo, but just used as an example. The source is now A+ w/ Lifatec glass horizontal so no strain on cable. The photo shows the bulge of a B+ and a strain but pliable Lifatec vertical because of space constraints. There is no way I can fit a triple-stack Allo in the belt much less bulky coax cables.

So my only mobile options besides my current is:

• Chord 2Go
• Pi A+/0 plus Uptone USPCB A>B Adapter.
  
• Current solution, but the Sysconcept optical (Had Sysconcept optical back in 2004 so didn't want to go back to that route) versus Lifatec. Lifatec glass optical is amazing BTW. Also amazing is Sysconcept's website has not changed since early 2000's.
  
• Apple CCK via USB
• CCA

I would not mind trying any:

• 25 iFi Audio devices daisy-chained together.
• Uptone USB products (Rendu's, etc.)
• Allo products

A random poster claims that 25 IFi USB devices daisy-chained together makes the H2 sound better than the DAVE. Sure I would love to try that IFi daisy-chain, Uptone and Allo but as the DAC designer continually stresses is that added complexity will increase the potential for RF Noise. Any SQ and transparency gains with all these solutions is probably attributed to increase RF noise not the product themselves.

Added complexity == Potential Increase in RF Noise
Increase in SQ and Transparency likely due to RF Noise

Only optical is the reference recommendation and immune from RF noise.
I'm sure all available options are fine, but I want the reference solution recommended by the DAC designer. I'm not going to try to out-implement the DAC designer's recommendations. It's like posters want balanced output on the Mojo/H2, it just going to add noise. But Audiophiles are going to audiophile.

Sure I would be ecstatic to try Allo products, but only optical is totally immune from RF noise. I guess it's fine if your streaming, but listening to rare holy grail sources I don't want any blemishes.

Also, I decided at one point to be completely off the grid since battery tech is so robust now. This also avoids any ground noise as recommended by Sir RW. So I'm only sticking with optical and Anker batteries for now. My mid-tier Anker last almost 10 H2 sessions before needing charge. If my desktop usage increases, I'm looking at an Anker PowerHouse:

In the end, I would of course be happy with Allo or any of these solutions; but environments are not perfect so I want full immunity of RF noise and ground noise. There should be a sticky in the Watt's Up thread because it's continually recommended. I do genuinely love all these solutions though.

 

[474194]

Does anyone make an SACD reading USB drive? As I have a considerable number of SACD discs and since my Sony SACD stand alone player (modified by Colin Twogood with a Trichord crystal clock, various voltage regulators, better caps and resistors and a Coax digital output) died a few years with a dead and no spares laser, I have only been able to play the ones with a dual layer CD arrangement. All my DAC's can now decode DSD files up to 512, so it would be nice to benefit from that.

Wilson

There are services in the States which you can send your SACDs to process to digital files for a vig. If I stumble upon services for Europe, I'll PM a link. I believe you maybe able to find info on computeraudiophile site, but I think recently they changed their domain name to audiophilestyle. A Google search may garner some hits since you know what terms to search now. You will get your SACDs back along with your requests (DSD, RB, ISO, Backup DVD-A).

 

[474194]

One hard learned lesson to share: for better or worse, a lot of SACDs have different masterings on the redbook layer vs the DSD layer.

That's what I'm afraid of, but I'm hoping newer SACDs try to replicate RB properly. I will probably dedicate this as a summer project and go album by album researching which has a proper RB layer.

What gives me some hope is the MoFis:

"In addition, a high-precision down-conversion is utilized for the CD layer (16-bit/44.1kHz) to preserve the sonic integrity of the original DSD capture. The result: State-of-the-art sound on any machine that can play either standard compact discs or SACDs."

After a lot of head scratchers, I pivoted to doing my own DSD to PCM conversion, but at the end of the day, I opted to just let mScaler (and DAVE) do all the conversion heavy lifting, and just decide if I prefer the CD rip for a particular disc, or the SACD rip. Since I have both in my Roon library, I set the Roon "primary version" to the rip I prefer, and call it a day.

Please though if you have sometime this year upscale an SACD RB layer to mScaler and compare. Pending of course same mastering. I'm trying to avoid DSD and stick with only RBCD. SACD masterings are glorious so worth the effort to make RB work. I'll post a list of possible same mastering candidates once I start my Summer research. This should bypass SACD's "softness" and timing flaws while enjoying the master or close to master source.

A side story: the MA on SA SACD from MA Recordings is one of the finest discs in my collection. A very cool thing about this disc is that it has a completely different set of tracks on the redbook layer than the DSD layer, which means basically 150 minutes of glorious music. If you pick one up, beware: you'll end up (happily) buying a crazy number of the source albums that the selections came from.

I see your link on SHTV, I'll revisit your recommendation in the Summer.

 

[474194]

Alright, I set aside today to work on the Rpi guide but didn't get to it by posting here.

Going to take a break from this thread for a few weeks so I can focus on the guide...

I can feel the 2Go in the force...

 

[Triode User]

Forgive me. I was in sleep mode after 2AM then logged out and did a last minute refresh and noticed there were a few posts left behind.

Interesting conclusion. Do you have a link to the album? I want to confirm they are not different versions/mastering. I don't stream so interested in info on how to determine hires vs redbook master source via streaming service.

This is the link to the album. I bought the Hi Res version and then downloaded it at 96/24 and 44/16 rather than purchasing different mixes / masters.

https://www.qobuz.com/gb-en/album/my-finest-work-yet-andrew-bird/di1yxhr6sndgc

 

[Ta6ypeTka]

A random poster claims that 25 IFi USB devices daisy-chained together makes the H2 sound better than the DAVE.

I've tried adding IFI IUSB3.0 (via usual cheap microusb cable, not gemini or the second one), and literally heard no difference on H2. However, I do hear the difference with using it on the other devices. And I've compared uwing it with and w/o Gemini: it does also matter. However, it has another connector, so it's not possible to link H2 directly via it. Smaller usb IFI devices didn't have any effect as well. Maybe it's due to a good USB realization in the H2? I've read somewhere, that some tricky stuff is used in it.

Also, I decided at one point to be completely off the grid since battery tech is so robust now. This also avoids any ground noise as recommended by Sir RW. So I'm only sticking with optical and Anker batteries for now. My mid-tier Anker last almost 10 H2 sessions before needing charge. If my desktop usage increases, I'm looking at an Anker PowerHouse

Have you heard about Goal Zero Sherpa 100? Imo, it can be a more interesting option. Why do you specifically prefer Anker?

 

[dontfeedphils]

Unfortunately no. I do though love all RPi solutions and it's amazing we have so many options. I'm glad you found what works for you. I did seriously consider the Allo route at one time, but once you add a nice coax cable and a LPS, you are getting into the 2Go territory cost-wise. Also, besides being coax, the Allo is triple-stacked. Both deal-breakers for my use case. I'm only in this hobby for mobility, so everything has to fit in a belt. This is an older prototype photo, but just used as an example. The source is now A+ w/ Lifatec glass horizontal so no strain on cable. The photo shows the bulge of a B+ and a strain but pliable Lifatec vertical because of space constraints. There is no way I can fit a triple-stack Allo in the belt much less bulky coax cables.



So my only mobile options besides my current is:

• Chord 2Go
• Pi A+/0 plus Uptone USPCB A>B Adapter.
• Current solution, but the Sysconcept optical (Had Sysconcept optical back in 2004 so didn't want to go back to that route) versus Lifatec. Lifatec glass optical is amazing BTW. Also amazing is Sysconcept's website has not changed since early 2000's.
• Apple CCK via USB
• CCA

I would not mind trying any:

• 25 iFi Audio devices daisy-chained together.
• Uptone USB products (Rendu's, etc.)
• Allo products

A random poster claims that 25 IFi USB devices daisy-chained together makes the H2 sound better than the DAVE. Sure I would love to try that IFi daisy-chain, Uptone and Allo but as the DAC designer continually stresses is that added complexity will increase the potential for RF Noise. Any SQ and transparency gains with all these solutions is probably attributed to increase RF noise not the product themselves.

Added complexity == Potential Increase in RF Noise
Increase in SQ and Transparency likely due to RF Noise

Only optical is the reference recommendation and immune from RF noise.
I'm sure all available options are fine, but I want the reference solution recommended by the DAC designer. I'm not going to try to out-implement the DAC designer's recommendations. It's like posters want balanced output on the Mojo/H2, it just going to add noise. But Audiophiles are going to audiophile.

Sure I would be ecstatic to try Allo products, but only optical is totally immune from RF noise. I guess it's fine if your streaming, but listening to rare holy grail sources I don't want any blemishes.

Also, I decided at one point to be completely off the grid since battery tech is so robust now. This also avoids any ground noise as recommended by Sir RW. So I'm only sticking with optical and Anker batteries for now. My mid-tier Anker last almost 10 H2 sessions before needing charge. If my desktop usage increases, I'm looking at an Anker PowerHouse:



In the end, I would of course be happy with Allo or any of these solutions; but environments are not perfect so I want full immunity of RF noise and ground noise. There should be a sticky in the Watt's Up thread because it's continually recommended. I do genuinely love all these solutions though.

FWIW, I've done some quick tests (as have others on the Allo forums) comparing power banks (like the one you're using) to actual battery packs for powering a RPi based solution, if a nice LPS isn't an option. A nice battery pack powered by a couple of nice 18650 batteries is far quieter than a power bank.

 

[474194]

I've tried adding IFI IUSB3.0 (via usual cheap microusb cable, not gemini or the second one), and literally heard no difference on H2. However, I do hear the difference with using it on the other devices. And I've compared uwing it with and w/o Gemini: it does also matter. However, it has another connector, so it's not possible to link H2 directly via it. Smaller usb IFI devices didn't have any effect as well. Maybe it's due to a good USB realization in the H2? I've read somewhere, that some tricky stuff is used in it.



Have you heard about Goal Zero Sherpa 100? Imo, it can be a more interesting option. Why do you specifically prefer Anker?

Those Gemini USB cables are very tempting, but at over $200; just pulling hair out. And you need at least two I believe. I did spend $500 on two USB cables during my USB phase and after I sold them I was considering Gemini or Uptone USPCB. That USB Frankenstein Rabbit Hole is really something. Glad I came to my senses thanks to Phuca's post which sparked the idea for this project.

It's not 25 daisy-chain. It's 22 stage, 11 purifiers:

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/cho...fficial-thread.831345/page-1116#post-15126535

Lesser DAC's maybe beneficial, but learning and getting ideas from the Chord Summit-Fi && Watt's Up threads really helps educate that nothing fancy is needed. The DAC will take care of the heavy lifting.

Up to $500, I'm going Anker. They are a commodity brand in the States. We buy Anker cables (microUSB, Switch, lightning), wall outlets, battery packs, etc. Easy to return or exchange. Usually they just give you a replacement product as shipping back is a pain. They are consistent and always sign off on QC for each product. They are quality on a mass scale here.

https://d2211byn0pk9fi.cloudfront.n...ts/76597/Power_Bank_Doc_-A1277.pdf?1550125799

Plus, I'm looking for 5V3A per port. Only Anker 26800 and PowerStations provide that ATM. I thought I got a Anker @ 5V3A, but it was misleading. It ended up only the standard 5V2.4A, 3A was all ports or something. Just confusing. RPi recommends 5V2.5A, but it works perfectly fine. I haven't read a negative report. It's a slight difference, but I will eventually stay with 3A once a proper size 3A is released. Other brands have them at smaller sizes, but I'm waiting for Anker. Not in a rush since the HiFiBerry side regulates it's own power after the handover. I checked the logs and no power issues.

Goal Zero is okay. You just need to review similar brands in their price category. But last I looked, they were all 2.4A.

For 12V DC (Summit-Fi) and USB 3A (will need more research, but preliminary looks like it's 3A), would look into something like (we get earthquakes here so justifiable for emergencies):

 

[474194]

Someone upped the Ghent Audio thread if you need DC and/or coaxial (Allo). I got USB (power-only, no data).

They procure quality Western/Japanese name brand audio products in bulk and assemble in China with good name brand solder for a very reasonable price. Goldfinger (sp?) mentioned in the Summit-Fi threads, so I got one. Quick delivery.

https://www.head-fi.org/threads/ghe...ions-pictures-in.725542/page-12#post-14913540

 

[474194]

FWIW, I've done some quick tests (as have others on the Allo forums) comparing power banks (like the one you're using) to actual battery packs for powering a RPi based solution, if a nice LPS isn't an option. A nice battery pack powered by a couple of nice 18650 batteries is far quieter than a power bank.

I considered that route, but learned Anker uses these same type of HQ LG batteries in their battery packs. When Darko's batteries caught on fire during his Allo video, that deterred me as well. No way I want batteries catching on fire while wearing them in a belt. It just wasn't worth it since Anker would implement better and safer than a DIY with same batteries. I'm still open to any battery solutions, but for now will take the conservative route.



The HiFiBerry already has an onboard LPS:

https://support.hifiberry.com/hc/en-us/community/posts/211820549-3-3v-power-to-Digi-Pro

You can also power directly off the HiFiBerry board using your own LPS, but newer boards report there's not much difference. It powers the RPi at the same time, so no power to RPi needed if you go this route. I'm determined to stay battery only and I don't want to deal with AC. If there is a battery-powered LPS, pls let know and maybe I might experiment with this option in the future.

Just need to connect power to the P3 header to power board directly versus powering via RPi.

 

[474194]

Does anyone make an SACD reading USB drive? As I have a considerable number of SACD discs and since my Sony SACD stand alone player (modified by Colin Twogood with a Trichord crystal clock, various voltage regulators, better caps and resistors and a Coax digital output) died a few years with a dead and no spares laser, I have only been able to play the ones with a dual layer CD arrangement. All my DAC's can now decode DSD files up to 512, so it would be nice to benefit from that.

Wilson

I was reading there maybe these used players for around $40 if you can find:

This is a European model and I believe they can at least play SACD.

https://www.sony.co.uk/electronics/support/res/manuals/4410/44101403M.pdf

But some have been able to make SACD backups (ISOs) over their local network with this player. The software is on your PC and you just connect to the player over the network.

Don't have time for SACD stuff till summer, but if you look around there's possibilities.

There's also a 500 series, the confirmation is w/ the S490.